66 Diary: LVC vs. SUGAR CANES

[dr.house]

I’d like to invite you to my new project (besides the coming ROY-contest):

a comparison between the original 1966 501 repro by LVC and the Sugar Canes 1966 US model, 1st series (with arcs). Cone vs. Japanese Denim.

I own both jeans brand new and I’ll wear them in rotation exactly for, hmm, let’s say 100 times at least to see how both pairs develop within this time. Soaked together, washed together and so on.

For a reference I’ve got my beautiful Denime 66xx, one year old and worn a lot:

The 1966 model is one of the milestones in the history of the 501- the cut is slimmer with tapered legs (some call it ‘carot-shape’) and more modern compared to the older models. Today it’s one of the favorite cuts for us denimheads. Bar tacks instead of hidden rivets, a lower rise and the disappearance of the coin pocket-selvage line are some of the changes compared to it’s predecessors.

LVC 1966

The fabric of the LVC66 is a typical cone denim- flat and clean with a greyish touch, less stiff than the 47’s fabric e.g.

PRESOAK MEASUREMENTS (tagged 32x34”)

Waist 33“

Front Rise 11.5“

Back Rise 15.5”

Upper Thigh 11.5”

Knee 9.5”

Hem 8”

Inseam 32.5”

(all measurements BiG-Style. Right, the inseam is really short in inches, but it isn't too short, at least 4me. Maybe I've grabbed a wrong tagged model?)

SUGAR CANES 1966

The SC1966 is made in the USA from japanese Denim (at least that's what most ppl suggest. BiG says it's from the US, but I really don't think so). The fabric is a 100% Double ring-spun Cotton, lot more irregular, thicker and, yeah, really 'more japanese' than the LVC's.

PRESOAK MEASUREMENTS (tagged 31x34”)

Waist 32“

Front Rise 12“

Back Rise 15.5”

Upper Thigh 12”

Knee 9.5”

Hem 8”

Inseam 35.5”

Note the huge and real square backpockets on both models.

Note the longer yoke of the Canes.

Nearly identical silhouette.

Paper patch on the LVC's...

...and the Canes. I'm not a big friend of this loud "Made in USA"-stamp.

(---)

[dr.house]

More details:

Selvage seams (LVC above)

Hey, you've got good eyes: 66's got no V-stitch on the waistband! Note the decentered main button on the canes.

Crotch of the LVC's...

...and the Canes. Note the longer yellow thread.

Coin pocket of the LVC's...

...and of the Sugar Canes. The beltloops of those are slimmer and longer.

Denim in detail, Sugar Cane uses cotton thread.

(---)

[dr.house]

LVC

Sugar Canes

You can see that both pairs are pretty similar, even in details. I don't know if the yoke on the original 66 was long as it's made on the Canes, maybe Paul can help? I hope I'll find the time for their initial soak within the next days. Fit pics after that. Stay tuned.

[ThinFinn]

Great project doc...subscribed!

[mikecch]

This will be very interesting - looking forward to the wear comparisons

Edit: but how are you going to get 100 wears on each with the Roy x Cone contest coming up?

[josh mullen]

i'm interested. i've been at something similar: LVC 66's and Ooe 02's. the Ooe model 02's are a late 60's cut, and i'd say a little closer to the SC 1966 than the LVCs. the denim used for the LVCs is beautiful though, and fades wonderfully. i had a pair of SC 66's, but made the mistake of returning them. i myself prefer the higher rise of the sugarcanes. how do you feel about it? i know some would rather have the slightly lower rise.

[rnrswitch]

I have always loved the sugar cane patch. There is just something cool about the steam train.

[jigsaw]

rep house!

[dr.house]

Thanks guys. Yeah, I don't have any time limit...I just wanna see and show the differences of both jeans within a certain timeframe, so we'll have stuff to discuss the old question "Jap or Cone"? Let's see what happens!

@josh mullen: the rise on those SC's isn't significantly higher...maybe they've changed something on the later stocks?

[jwsach]

awesome thread! I always wanted to see a one wearer comparison between repros... subscribed!

[aho]

The SC1966 have been my goto pair for the past 10-11 months...After all this wear they are starting to really break in/fade but it just might be my fit and lack of vigorous activity that has slowed the process down (heck I'm not complaining, it's a good thing!). The SC have this special hue that's hard for cameras (at least mine) pick up on but I look forward to your project! And a note on the details, I can't wait to see how your coin pocket will rope up after a hot soak on the SC's! One of my favorite details...

[Paul T]

Looking great. Subscribed.

I'm not sure about the yoke - it does look a little long on the SC. THe coin pocket should be squarer on them, that is one feature of 67-ish pairs.

For denim reference, here's a pair of original raws, the nipper's 302, from circa 1969 (deeper arcuates, all copper stitching). I'll drop photos of those in on this thread every now and then, then it will be a great reference for late 60s levi's style jeans.

The fabric on late 60s levi's is a little more slubby than earlier models, they introduced a new spinning method. I have seen the COne samples next to the pair of 60s originals they based it on, they did a great job but I reckon SC's interpretation will be impressive too.

[robbie]

s u b s c r i b e d

[dr.house]

Thanks Guys. Postsoak measurements and first fitpics after the beauties are ready to go (still drying).

[bod]

This is gonna be interesting I have the LVC66 and interested in the Canes too.

[dr.house]

POSTSOAK MEASUREMENTS:

LVC

Waist 31“

Upper Thigh 11”

Inseam 31”

CANES

Waist 31“

Upper Thigh 11”

Inseam 33”

Interesting, both shrink to the same size, except the length of course. The LVC's are okay inseamwise (the outerseam is like a 34" outseam), hope it won't shrink anymore with future washes/ soaks. Fitpics after drying.

[to><ikon]

There's just something about these shallow arcs...

[dr.house]

Meanwhile I like all the original arcs, most of all the painted 44 arcuates. Today I received my 37's with their single stitched arcs, whoa, nice. But the shallow 66 arcs are also something special, indeed.

[cash]

The LVC's are okay inseamwise (the outerseam is like a 34" outseam), hope it won't shrink anymore with future washes/ soaks. Fitpics after drying.

Yea, but a '66 cut will look good worn highwater. Plus, with two similar pants, you'll want a little variety in the cut.

[bod]

Interesting, both shrink to the same size, except the length of course. The LVC's are okay inseamwise (the outerseam is like a 34" outseam), hope it won't shrink anymore with future washes/ soaks. Fit pics after drying.

For reference I've had tagged 34" inseam shrink to 30.5" and 36" to 32.5" over a two very hot, agitated soaks.

[setterman]

For reference I've had tagged 34" inseam shrink to 30.5" and 36" to 32.5" over a two very hot, agitated soaks.

Didn't bother to measure before soaking, but my new pair of LVC '66s shrank from a tagged 36 inseam down to 32 1/2" after two warm washes and some time in the dryer. Suprised me that they shrank to under the expected 33".

[dr.house]

Yeah, they run pretty short + tons of shrinkage, but I'm sure I can handle that with only cold washes in the future. In my experience LVC's doesn't shrink much more with further washes.

[josh mullen]

setterman -- have you dried your '55s in a dryer as well?

[setterman]

setterman -- have you dried your '55s in a dryer as well?

Not sure. If I have, it was only once and I didn't dry them all the way. They've been through the washer, I'm guessing ten times, and they setteled in on 31' (tagged 34) inseam at the first wash, as did my '37s and '44s. Suprised me that the 66s went a little shorter, but they may have started shorter to begin with.

[dr.house]

I've started with the LVCs. They were pretty snug and hard to button up after the initial soak, but after 2 hours walking they've stretched to a comfy fit, slim but not tight: exactly what I've expected, nearly perfect. The inseam is just right, but they mustn't loose anymore length. Cold washes/soaks are their way in the future for that reason.

The denim is pretty stiff after wash and feels much more heavier and real sturdy: great. It is also much darker, a real dark blue with a distinctive touch of grey. Super nice. I hope I can do some fit pics this evening.

[SLAB]

very cool project dr house! did you measure the waist 'big' style? I normally get tag size 29 but naoki advised me to get size 30 in these?

subscribed for further progress :-)

[dr.house]

^Yeah, all measurements are BiG-Style. Thanks!

So, here are some crappy first fitpics from the man without head ;-)...

(Dunno why ImageShack turned the pic)

[jaspar]

Great idea, House. But what about the Cane's fit?

[dr.house]

Unfortunately I can't wear both at the same time...:-) Asap!

[josh mullen]

Unfortunately I can't wear both at the same time...:-) Asap!

no?

http://www.life.com/image/first/in-gallery/47471/never-seen-hells-angels-1965#index/25