Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

[indigoeagle]

@vlad_III Did you by chance go today to DR to check out the samples of the new collection?

[indigoeagle]

I was wondering recently: FWs call their denim pants Lot 601XX, but the jackets are 506XX and 507XX, not 606XX,....
Does anyone know why?

Jelado calls their 506XX jacket 407XX and the type 2 406XX.

[reubensangwich]

Just theorizing here; Levi's no longer produces jackets with model numbers 506 or 507, so presumably they don't have trademarks on those numbers like they do on 501, allowing FW to use 506 and 507 without fear of litigation. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

On 11/20/2025 at 5:42 PM, indigoeagle said:

That is interesting since the samples in the background of the pics don't seem to have any.
Perhaps they come as an extra and can be added by the buyer himself.

Apparently they come with press-on buttons. And it's a new WW2 denim

[Dr_Heech]

31 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

And it's a new WW2 denim

How can '1937 -41' jeans be made of a new WW2 denim? Or am l missing something 😕 

[indigoeagle]

On 11/20/2025 at 9:32 PM, reubensangwich said:

That would actually be pretty cool, considering Levi's claims that's what they did when they removed the buttons in the 30's

Yes, I had also remembered, that they did that.

[indigoeagle]

41 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Apparently they come with press-on buttons. And it's a new WW2 denim

Interesting to hear.
Did you hear in which respect the new WW2 denim differs from the previous one?
I'd guess less vertical falling. The current one is very cool, but quite pronounced, similar to LHT and TFH as has been commented here.

[indigoeagle]

9 minutes ago, Dr_Heech said:

How can '1937 -41' jeans be made of a new WW2 denim? Or am l missing something 😕 

Wouldn't it be similar to the one they had issued two years ago or so, the 1942 one? I.e. fit and detail of the 37 version (that was in use until 1941/42) but with WWII denim?

[Dr_Heech]

40 minutes ago, indigoeagle said:

Wouldn't it be similar to the one they had issued two years ago or so, the 1942 one? I.e. fit and detail of the 37 version (that was in use until 1941/42) but with WWII denim?

I'm confused though. I mean l know that not every FW denim item has to be 100% accurate and artistic license can intervene at times, but l thought the 1942 buckleback repro was the last model with high quality stitching and all the usual bells and whistles, but the First to use the war denim. Then when the Simplified version came in to full effect in late 1942, the war denim remained but the full restictions were implemented and the quality dipped.

The 1937-early 1942 denim is different from the war denim, no?

And then there's the reverse yoke model.

I'm confused 

[Broark]

7 minutes ago, Dr_Heech said:

I'm confused though. I mean l know that not every FW denim item has to be 100% accurate and artistic license can intervene at times, but l thought the 1942 buckleback repro was the last model with high quality stitching and all the usual bells and whistles, but the First to use the war denim. Then when the Simplified version came in to full effect in late 1942, the war denim remained but the full restictions were implemented and the quality dipped.

The 1937-early 1942 denim is different from the war denim, no?

And then there's the reverse yoke model.

I'm confused 

1937: from 2022, 601xx-c, featuring a different denim (more red-cast, slightly more neppy hand). Features your typical '37 attributes: concealed back pocket rivets with branded rivet backs, cinch, crotch rivet, higher tab location on the back pocket, etc.
1941 (new model for '26): Features a new denim, intended to be the "first run" of war era denims. Darker in color, slightly heavier in weight featuring a newly design warp and weft cotton (primarily American cotton) and a bit more neppy. Suspender buttons (I'm guessing the "snap on" concept referenced is that they originally were not made with suspender buttons, but at the time of purchase they could be added on if the buyer wanted them), cinch, crotch rivet. FW states that jeans around this time did not usually come with suspender buttons, but their vintage reference model had them so they kept them on their interpretation.
1942: early 2024 model, features the war era denim that FW has been using since ~2021 as first seen on the S601xx. Similar features to the '41, main difference seems to be the denim and suspender buttons.
There are a few models after this, but those are your more typical simplified war models.

To me it feels like some of the features are starting to blend together, they do say that the '41s were made for a very short period of time at the end of '41. And my guess is that this continues to blend into '42?
I'll try and get some more info but this is my own interpretation thus far. Maybe one day I'll do a through breakdown of each with side by side photos once I have them all in hand.
All that to say the new '41 model does have a different war denim. 

[Dr_Heech]

@Broark So where does the non-war denim reverse yoke model come into the timeline? Or have FW skipped on making that model?

[Broark]

@Dr_Heech the reversed yoke model is the 601xx-c, so the ‘37 by FW’s interpretation.

[Dr_Heech]

Thanks. I think l've still got alot to learn here but regardless, l have my FW'42 tux and that's all that l need atm.

Can you show me an image of the 1937 601xxc reversed yoke model ?

[Broark]

@Dr_Heech here’s a link to the Iceclimber blog with some photos: 601xx-c

When referring to the reversed yoke, we’re talking about the middle joint of the yoke being right over left as opposed to left over right, correct?

[Maynard Friedman]

I thought it meant top part over bottom. Maybe both?

[Dr_Heech]

2 minutes ago, Broark said:

@Dr_Heech here’s a link to the Iceclimber blog with some photos: 601xx-c

When referring to the reversed yoke, we’re talking about the middle joint of the yoke being right over left as opposed to left over right, correct?

No sorry, l meant the yoke being the top yoke panels overlapping the bottom leg panels.  The right over left/left over right leg panels are a different aspect.

Oh well, we'll see what all the fuss is about when the new tux is released, whenever that is?

[Dr_Heech]

On 3/12/2025 at 1:12 PM, Dr_Heech said:

The 1937 501XX models.

 

1. 1935- early 1937 (?) 501XXC prototype model

Pre-pocket flasher model with leather patch probably reading 501XXC (the C standing for covered or concealed?) Copper rivets throughout, with flat bottomed concealed back pocket rivets. From September 1936 onwards the 501 used the smaller 1st issue red tab (10mm as opposed to the normal 12/13mm) placed high on the back pocket. Copper riveted on leather patch. 10oz denim. Mix of orange and yellow stitching. Buckle is either silver colour or two tone copper plated/silver. No images available. 

 

2. 1937 501XX (1937-41 model)

 

First pocket flasher model (dated 1937) informing customers about the new "concealed copper rivets". Larger 12/13mm red tab, cleaner construction throughout. Mostly orange stitching, buckle is usually two tone copper plated/silver. This is the most common model, produced for around 3 or 4 years. 

 

3. 1941 501XX (1941-1942 model)

Reverse yoke model where the left and right top panels (yoke) are overlapping the left and right bottom (leg) panels. Still comes with 1937 dated pocket flasher and copper used in all rivets. Mostly orange stitching apart from the chainstitched waistband where black thread is sometimes used. The concealed rivets are rounded copper type, different than its predecessor. Both types of buckle used during this period but on occasion a black painted buckle has been used.This model is less common than the 1937 model. 

 

4. 1942 501XX (April-August 1942)

 

New 1942 dated pocket flasher stating "concealed pocket rivets", New 12oz(?) denim, yoke reversed back to pre-1941 construction, mix of orange and yellow stitching,  Black anodized buckle briefly used during this short period although one example found looks to have a silver one. Back pocket concealed rivets are now a rounded shape and use copper coated iron, the others are still pure copper until August 1942 when all WPB's were implemented for the S501XX model. This model is the rarest of the main three types commonly found.

 

The Anomaly:

I have seen quite a few pairs of 501XX from the period 1935-1942 which have constantly contradicted the notion that the left over right back leg panels construction change came in around 1941. I have seen pairs with 1941 and 1937 details but the construction is still left over right.

Hope all my ramblings make sense?

@Broark This my help explain the yoke/leg panels thing

Edited November 24, 2025 by Dr_Heech

[Broark]

Ah okay sorry for the confusion, I’ve just double checked and the upcoming ‘41s indeed do have the top over bottom yoke construction. But once I have my pair next year I’ll post photos. 

[Dr_Heech]

13 minutes ago, Broark said:

Ah okay sorry for the confusion, I’ve just double checked and the upcoming ‘41s indeed do have the top over bottom yoke construction. But once I have my pair next year I’ll post photos. 

Cool, so are these are different pair as they have the regular type of yoke construction?

Edited November 24, 2025 by Dr_Heech
To add image

[Broark]

28 minutes ago, Dr_Heech said:

Cool, so are these are different pair as they have the regular type of yoke construction?

Really strange, I think that photo might be deceiving. 

[indigoeagle]

On this picture it's clearer.

 

[indigoeagle]

FWs does limited editions. So the 1942 jeans and jacket from April '24 won't be produced again.
The upcoming pair is quite close, so people who have missed out, can have a chance. And they're still different from the previous one, like has been said apparently mostly the new denim and the suspender buttons for the jeans and also the upcoming ones have the reverse yoke (top over bottom), which the 1942 one did not have.
And the 1942 one had the black buckle, I think, while the 1941 seems to have the same or similar one to the 1937 one.

The 1942 was standard yoke (bottom over top) and standard left over right.
The upcoming 1941 will have the reverse yoke (top over bottom) and standard left over right.
And the 1937 XXC had standard yoke (bottom over top) and right over left. 
Quite confusing  I have had to check a few times, which was which.

Edited November 25, 2025 by indigoeagle

[Broark]

The ‘41 also has the black buckle, same as the ‘42. 

[vlad_III]

On 11/25/2025 at 1:35 AM, indigoeagle said:

@vlad_III Did you by chance go today to DR to check out the samples of the new collection?

I went on Sunday. With my baby daughter to look at the spring 26 collection. 

[vlad_III]

The 41 denim is standard Freewheelers WW2 denim. That’s what DR told me. 
I didn’t ask about the buttons. I just said I’m not gonna buy it because I’m not a fan of the suspender buttons. I assume they would’ve told me if they were removable. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I've just based my statement on the Benny Store IG post:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DRY8u3AlJzx/?img_index=1

[vlad_III]

1 hour ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

I'm just based my statement on the Benny Store IG post:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DRY8u3AlJzx/?img_index=1

OK. That clearly says press on buttons…. I’ll go and ask next week. The denim was definitely standard WW2. I think that post is just poorly translated. Maybe someone speaking Cantonese can confirm. 

[MJF9]

@vlad_III I thought the new '41 looked like the WW2 denim. Did you try them on? I'm interested in the fit dimensions if you have any intell?

@Broark did you hear something else on the denim?

[Broark]

2 hours ago, MJF9 said:

@Broark did you hear something else on the denim?

I’m confirming but what I’ve seen it’s a new fabric, different warp and weft construction as well as a new cotton source.

[indigoeagle]

In the Japanese text by FW on the 1941 jeans and jacket it says, that after eight years of using the original War Denim they have reworked it.
Their original War Denim was with a darker indigo, slower to fade and a bit heavier than the denim fabric of the time before the war.
If I understood it correctly, they write, that they wanted the vertical falling to be less pronounced and to that end they reworked the warp. The warp's core has nep woven in and consists of US cotton.

On the suspender buttons it just said that they prepared the pair with the buttons attached, so they probably come like that, as @vlad_III had seen at DR.