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Phigvel phigvel Wesco

EVIS 2101 LAZY S - 1990

vintage bomber jacket Freewheelers 1922. Nicks builder pro

Freewheelers 1920s tux

@Maynard Friedman ok cool, thanks for the info, I will try to dig up the post with your pair :). Just tried them and they seem to fit quite nicely even though I'm not used to the fit. What do you guys say, keep or sell?

Same ol hat, vintage vest, thrifted sweater, TCB 50s, Blundstones

@Newman - they’re the Duckdigger DD108 - the same as the original Warehouse Warren DD108 (I wore one pair to threads years ago and have another pair squirrelled away). They’re a late 40s cut I believe and made with an oxidised 1000XX denim of about 14-14.5oz that’s supposed to give them some kind of unique, authentic ageing (I don’t think it does). They’re from around 2007 and Warehouse produced them after the Levi’s lawsuit when they started to move away from strict repros with red tabs and Levi’s style arcs (yours have the lasso loops) and before they moved back in that direction again. I hope that’s useful, you can find a bit more information in this thread or via a Google search and also some old Lighting magazines. They’re great jeans, well done on the (re)discovery!

20s tux grime

Great Lakes / Tender Co. / Rocky Mountain Featherbed / Tezomeya / Duke’s / The Vanishing West / Frank’s

They are arn't they.. Same reason i sold off the fancy boots collection (i've just kept my favourite pair for weddings or funerals) they just don't lend themselves to current lifestyle.. i'm getting up in the morning and cycling to work, i'm not going to do that in workboots .. i could wear them in the workshop but they'd be fked in a couple of months like what happened to my Lofgren engineers (fancy 'workboots' are better suited to office workers or Instagramers playing dress-up imo, i can't afford to destroy £1500 handmade boots every few months) if i am out after work / weekends, i'll usually be playing tennis, hiking in the Peaks or MTB.. again, not really occasions for workboots. This is the first time i've even checked out this thread in years, it used to be one of my favourite hangouts when it was all nicely worn American / Japanese workboots or fancy English shoes.. but it seemed like every time i checked in, i would only see new boots (not better with age) or worst still Quoddys, Paraboots or Aldens worn with white socks.. or perish the thought.. no socks at all.. so i stopped wearing boots and stopped checking out the thread. I'll wear them today, for old times sake, i've got to walk down to the hardwear shop inabit to buy a new brush

15yrs ago.. i bought a bunch of JMC sweatshirts 10yrs ago the gray one, still looked like this ..and today, i've never worn it for work ..bit of bleach.. bit of bitumen ..even though it's battered, and by far the most worn of the bunch, i always choose it from the wardrobe.. i can't help it.. it just feels so comforting i think that'll only change when i buy a new one to replace it.. alas, with McCoy's prices

I decided to snag the RW 9060 flatboxes since I rarely see them in size 13 for my 13.25 Brannock larger foot. Franklin & Poe still had a wide range of available sizes last time I checked. I like them so far. The fit kind of reminds me of barefoot shoes

Another wash

Sewing machines are pretty complicated, and small changes can have strong effects on how stitching turns out. The tensioning (and, correspondingly, the thread gauge) plays a big role. The whole reason we see the particular style of roping that we’re used to is an imbalance in how the top and bottom feeds pull the fabric—and the operator has quite a bit of control over how strong of an effect this is. Paying enough attention, it’s not too difficult to get a fairly even stitch out of a 43200G, or to get good roping with the straight stitch on a modern home machine. The folder also plays a big role; standard folders came in at least a few sizes, and I’m sure bigger factories had plenty more machined in-house, some of which resulted in very different hems than others.

In case anyone else is interested, Rockets is now taking reservation orders on Instagram for their VB-41 and VB-42 models which according to Kato-san can be modified to support models from 37-42

Can anyone help me ID these or tell me the cut and fabric about these ones. I just found them in a box I've had for storage in 10-15 years. Didn't like the cut back then but now I quite like it. So thinking of start using them.

From a recent vintage market. Pic by @Illcutz Cap- self made Hoodie- warehouse Jacket- style eyes Pantaloons- warehouse

I struggle with mirror selfies but this one seemed to turn out passable. FW x 3, Lofgren sneakers.

Challenger Phigvel Vendor Phigvel Vans

some of my denim bits.... 1.levis 501 xx 1927 2. levis 501xx 1933 3. hellers cafe - larrys collection 4. silverstone ground -alls 5 samurai lot 17 6. evisu no.2 7. stevensons overalls lot 727 8. sugar cane SC40200 x toyo enterprises 9. Evis lot 2504

@mjf9 they are one wash so the short inseam should be okeyish. Otherwise I agree they are too short. Will have to wear these uncuffed, which is nice for a change so I can see the roping. I decided to keep them as they are super comfortable. Yes I actually found a Steam Locomotive unsanforized unwashed denim jacket as well

Same for me. My feet are super flat and oddly shaped so the wide toe box and lesser arch support sounded appealing. I like my 55 lasted pair of boots and find them pretty comfortable but the level of support and weight isn’t really needed for me while just walking around town. Even for distance running I prefer my less supportive Sauconys to my previous pairs of higher stability Hokas

Hey @coleslawyum do you still have your ox blood Railman's? Here are mine albeit, not worn for nearly a decade

Having used the great group of people here as a bountiful resource for many months, I figured it was time to post some photos for the first time and share my two first TCB purchases - the Baker pant and 20's jacket. Starting with the 20s jacket, I'd first to like to thank @istewi and @blooming for the great advice regarding shrinkage and sizing. I ended up going for a size 44 off of primarily the chest measurements (I am around 172cm tall with a 50-51cm chest and weigh about 75kg) which felt like a daunting jump from my usual size but I think it worked out well. I wanted to be able to wear it across as many seasons as possible given the fabric's lighter weight so this size allows me to wear with either a t-shirt or a sweatshirt underneath (I've even managed to fit it under my Barbour). The sleeves need to be cuffed once, as I expected, but the cuff isn't bulky at all and I quite like how it looks. I am concerned it is a little on the longer side regarding overall body length, as it sits around 2.5-3cm below my belt (around 1-1.5inches) so I'd love any feedback on the fit! I love the weight and hairiness of the fabric and also appreciate that Inoue finds it is one of their more accurate repro fabrics to its respective era...can't wait to see how it fades! As the 20's fabric is prone to shrinkage (according the nice people at TCB, whom I ordered from and were also very helpful over instagram via sizing), below are my experiences with movement after a warm wash and 30 minutes in the tumble dryer: PRE-WASH Shoulder width - 49 (-1 from TCB measurements) Chest width - 53.5 ( = TCB measurements) Length - 63.5 (+1 TCB measurements) Sleeve length - 62 (-1 TCB measurements) POST-WASH Shoulder width - 48 Chest width - 52 Length - 62 Sleeve length - 62 Onto the Baker pant - I picked these up as I saw them posted a couple times here as well, and they seemed like a great idea having spent the last year with my legs swathed exclusively in denim. I got them in a size L with a waist size that hovers around 30-31 (although I had not experienced anything quite as high a rise as these yet so I was thankful for the wiggle room the side tabs allowed for). I wanted to wear these with the side adjuster tabs both buttoned as the fabric sticks out otherwise and in case I teeter into the dirty side of bulking -- the measurement guide on Bears was very accurate. They are light and very roomy in the thighs and as I am on the shorter side the taper that TCB has added seems less pronounced when wearing on my body. Lovely texture and immediately soft to wear with what I think is quite a reasonable price tag. Please excuse the Muji house slippers in the photos!

New York Hat Co // Dry Bones // MF // Viberg x Iron Heart

Halloween party last night. Paris, Texas became one of me and my girlfriend's favorite movies when we watched it after someone posted stills of it in the iconic denim photos thread.

Freewheelers 30s tux, cinched and beltless / Buckweat

Great Lakes x2 / Hollows / Cane’s / Frank’s

TCB jacket, Tender sweater, SDA pants, golden retriever.

Mended the cuffs on my Lee cowboy jacket. Dirty job, needed to get donen papa nui, Lee, fullcount, vans

contribootin’ aero tcb sugar cane russell

Freewheelers - WW2 tux (newly hemmed by @Mr Black), Ironalls and sweatshirt / Converse Timeline / @Duke Mantee and Rototo not visible

These past few pages are on fire. I love fall. Same old same old... Shrank the waist a bit on my sized up 501s to reduce the sag a bit but kept the legs dry. Much better.

Good news. I think the length looks good mate. Good luck with them. Looking forward to the Steam Locomotive pics!!

have a pair myself ..really like them SDA's take on the Levis 1890 model.

Hard wearing boots for hardware. Give ‘em a good stomping as you walk!

Nice boots Neal, why don’t you wear them anymore?

Those jeans are fantastic. Great fit

Thanks for the taking time the time to write those kind and very sage words. Given it is my first denim jacket (but likely not last) I absolutely was caught up in making sure it was perfect for every scenario, which included having just the right length. I’m embracing the way this fits on me and its use case as a versatile layering piece for the through the bone winters I get and you are absolutely right that no such perfect fit exists! Plus, it’s a great excuse to get something more cropped and fitted come spring. I hope this jacket ends up with a similar Goldilocks effect to your freewheelers piece

Not sure if this is a rhetorical question, but it’s because the person setting up the machine has control over the width of the hem. There’s a shop in the town I live in that hems with a union special and they say they set their width to match Levi’s from such and such year (I forget what year / era in particular). The setting is a bit wide and in turn doesn’t provide as much tension so the roping, while still nice, is more open with larger spacing between the ‘ropes’. I prefer a tighter hem with closer ropes, which is how all the factory FC pairs (along with other factory hems from other makers) I’ve had have been. I’ve figured that having a wider hem setting on the machine allows for more lenience as the person hemming is working with more material and in turn is a bit easier to work, but this is all conjecture on my part as I’ve never hemmed anything.

Long time lurker first time poster. The Muramasa guy has also listed versions of 1943 jacket with fake Tenderloin patch (well I guess Levis and Sweet Orr inspired with the tug of war design?) https://zenmarket.jp/en/auction.aspx?itemCode=1159072045 This seems to be the dude https://www.instagram.com/muramasa_glove/?hl=en and https://www.instagram.com/muramasa_jeans_factory/?hl=en Rakuten store (no jeans for sale on there though, just Mickey Mouse logo'd fake Rolexes and box logo tees) https://item.rakuten.co.jp/royal-west/c/0000000121/ From his Facebook he does genuinely seem to be in Osaka https://www.facebook.com/yuya.shiozaki.5 and likes Triathlon a lot. I think Takuya Kimura comes into it because Kimura seems to wear a genuine obscure Japanese brand called SC Subculture https://sc-subculture.jp. Some of the Muramasa stuff is also sold with a Subculture patch and pictures of Kimura (eg. https://zenmarket.jp/en/auction.aspx?itemCode=n1159212942) SC Subculture's boss' instagram posting about Kimura https://www.instagram.com/p/C1vTqR9Pckn/?next=%2Fbluegodzi%2Ftagged%2F&locale=在线定制塔吉克斯坦TEF证书联系{威信%2BTG%2F飞机%3A%40buth2788}sjwNH%3F%3F%3F%3F%3F%3Fѧ%3F%3FƾSwQuO&img_index=1 not sure if Kimura actually talks about the brand on his YouTube or is just wearing Subculture in the video. I think the Kiwami items are intended to mimic Neatstyle as they have the same blank patch with just WWII and waist size. I find it kind of strange/funny cause you wouldn't think Neatstyle would be big enough to be worth bootlegging. What I do enjoy is that he seems to use a bunch of different red tabs (Tenderloin jacket has IRON'S red tab). Although it all seems a bit fishy to me, they do seem to sell for reasonable money eg. this used Muramasa jacket on 2nd Street (which also shows inner tag) https://en.2ndstreet.jp/goods/detail/goodsId/2340110413269/shopsId/31327 and some competitive bidding on Y! as mentioned above.

yes most i have had for a very long while , i have some more Evis but i have to find them first. lots have been hidden for a long while as i put on lots of weigh and couldnt get into most of them anymore ..but due to weightloss i can enjoy them all again.

EVIS 2101 lazy 'S' with pale blue paint Lee cowboy 101 homage, around 1990

Is anyone knowledgeable on the black Red Wing leathers? For engineers the main ones seem to be RW Chrome and Klondike. The fades look a bit different. 2268 from the 90s with Chrome leather The 2966 with Klondike leather. The 9060 is a flat toe Beckmans, also with Klondike. It was recently offered in US stores and last year in some European shops in relation with the Munich store anniversary. But it's mostly sold out now. It has been available in Japan for many years. I think, it was also RW Japan, that had developed it. Mr Suzuki of Two Monkeys and Ol Shanks amongs other had a hand in it, if I remember correctly. Perhaps we'll see it in the European shops next year. Not sure, how popular it would be. It also looks nice worn.

All FW ‘jean’ denim is developed specifically for and by them - in fact they tend to take that approach with a lot of fabrics where possible. The ‘standard’ denim was developed from bootleggers denim into the denim we first saw in the 47 then in other articles, each time with a different dye mix (eg the 51, 39 etc) Since then they’ve developed a couple of other denims (S601, 50622 etc) - usually with a subtle variations or emphasis on the warp, nep, tension etc

Yeah, super fast any time I've ordered from them. For sure looks better, ha. Dunno why I didn't try that first. I did have to cuff the sleeve as these are pretty long and my arms are pretty short. Having never worn a denim jacket, I'm surprised at how much give these pleats have on the chest. Much more freedom of movement than I anticipated, honestly.

Early 1960s paper tag 2002XX. First time ever wearing a denim jacket. I have mixed feelings so far but just not used to it I guess. This was purchased unwashed from Cultizm on Monday night. In my hands in the middle of nowhere California on Thursday, washed and now it’s dry Thoughts on fit? It feels good so far, but I have very wide hips so knew I’d likely never be able to do anymore than a couple of buttons up…

@MJF9's jacket found a new home