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Pre-soak After initial wash (30 °C machine wash)

failing to blend in as usual… tcb / vintage / r-mocs

Pictures of the jeans

**Disclaimer**: This is not a paid review, but I did receive the jeans for free. Whoever said that it's not worth spending on dozens of jeans and heaps of money might need to reconsider, because today, it finally pays off. I received this pair of jeans from the Italian one-man brand "Word of Mouth" to share my impressions. But first, a little background about the person behind the sewing machines. "Word of Mouth" was founded in 2019 by Simone Sorgato, born and raised in Milan, and now based in Rome. However, it all really began in 2015 when Simone had his jeans repaired at Self Edge New York. Inspired by this experience and by videos of ROY and Ben Viapiana at work, the idea of purchasing a Union Special 43200G firmly took root. Initially, Simone only offered hemming services for jeans. Gradually, more vintage and classic sewing machines came into his possession. He familiarized himself with these machines and expanded his services to include repairs. Yet, his ultimate goal was to produce his own jeans. It took many trials and errors before Simone was satisfied with his work, but in 2023, he was finally ready to bring his jeans to customers as a one-man brand. The brand name "Word of Mouth" is a homage to Jaco Pastorius. Simone himself is an avid bass player, which explains the connection. Even though Italy is home to famous denim mills and is renowned for its fashion, Simone chose to source his fabrics, hardware, and threads from Japan. When it comes to denim, Japan is simply the Mecca. However, there is another side to the coin, as some people are skeptical when high-end or reproduction jeans are not made in Japan. I count myself among this group. Therefore, I am all the more curious about how this Japanese-Italian collaboration turns out. The jeans in question are the "411" model. The 411 is inspired by the Levi's 501XX from the 1940s, and this version includes the typical WWII details. This means there are no rivets in the crotch area or on the coin pocket, and of course, no cinch-back. The buttons are the classic donut buttons with the laurel leaf. The fabric for the front pockets is a green herringbone twill. Since Simone does everything by hand—such as hand-folding the denim—and because the old machines sometimes have their quirks, no two pairs of jeans are identical. To stay true to the production conditions during World War II, the seams on the WWII model are a bit more irregular compared to, say, a 1947 model. This is comparable to the jeans from Conner’s Sewing Factory, which are made under similar conditions (these are not intentional flaws as seen with some other brands). Simone finishes one pair of jeans at a time. **The Fit** As mentioned earlier, the 411 model is inspired by the Levi’s 501XX from the 1940s. Depending on one's perspective, it's either a regular straight or slim straight fit. Simone developed the pattern with professional assistance. The rise is high, but not as high as some other brands. Notably, the back rise is lower than in brands like Full Count or Freewheelers, a feature I personally prefer. The taper from the hip to the waist is not as pronounced as in the Sugar Cane 1947 or Conner’s Sewing Factory models, but the 411 provides more room in the hips than CSF models, which I appreciate as a European. For a size 36, the thighs are cut narrower than in the brands mentioned earlier, which might be a concern for some. The leg tapers slightly towards the hem but remains relatively wide. The front pocket openings are small but functional, and the back pockets are of average size, comfortably accommodating a smartphone or wallet. Numbers say more than words. Raw vs. washed at 30 °C in the machine Waist: 36” 33” Front rise: 12.5” 11.5” Back rise: 17” 15.5” Thighs: 13.5” 12.5” Knee: 10.25” 9.25” Leg opening: 9.25” 8.75” Inseam: 34” 31” **The Denim** Simone sources his denim from Collect Mills in Japan. Apparently, Collect Mills also distributes denim from various mills, and this loom-state denim is reportedly from Shinya Mills. It weighs 12oz, which is lighter than the denim used by many Japanese brands for their reproduction jeans, but it falls within the same weight class as LVC jeans. It has a pink selvedge line and is relatively soft in its raw state. There are subtle irregularities, with a bit of slub here and there, and the hairiness is minimal. The indigo hue in its raw state is more of a medium shade with a steel-gray undertone. According to the description, this denim is typical of the 1950s, so it's not entirely accurate for a WWII jean, which would have used a rougher and darker denim. Simone can only purchase 1-2 rolls of denim per order, and once the denim runs out, it's usually no longer available. After washing it tightens up a lot and gets fuzzier. It has a very slight redcast. The denim remains rather soft after the wash. **The Details** The jeans feature the typical WWII details (or rather, the absence of them): laurel leaf donut buttons, missing rivets, partially unfinished seams, and front pocket fabric made from scraps (in this case, a green herringbone twill). All seams are sewn with yellow thread, just like the original. However, since Simone customizes each pair of jeans, I could have opted for different thread colors. Word of Mouth doesn't yet have personalized hardware like buttons and rivets, but for a WWII model, that's just right. The rivets are punch-through, as they should be. On Instagram, you can still see some older WOM models where rivets in the 60s style were used, which, fortunately, was not done here. The hidden rivets are rounded, as seen on vintage jeans. The red tab is made of rayon, just like the original, but it bears the inscription "PIZZA" (unlike the original). The leather patch is made from vegetable-tanned cowhide, an unusual choice since other brands often use goat or deer leather. It has a very smooth texture, and each leather patch is hand-cut and stamped by Simone. It depicts two pizza makers tearing apart a slice of pizza, a twist on the two horses pulling a pair of jeans. The leather comes from an Italian tannery. The paper flasher is as humorously designed as the leather patch. On my jeans, it wasn’t stapled, but that’s a minor issue since it would be the first thing removed anyway. The belt loops are slightly raised, which isn't typically found in vintage Levi’s but has become a standard in serious reproduction jeans. **The Construction** Five different thread sizes were used in the construction. As mentioned earlier, all seams were sewn with yellow thread, which is 100% cotton. Simone places great importance on the correct aesthetics, so the thread for the fly and front pockets is thinner. Combined with the 100% cotton thread, this naturally creates a potential weak point. To capture the feel of WWII jeans, the seams are not all perfect. Also, due to the hand-folding technique and the lack of ironing, the seams won't achieve the precision of brands like Iron Heart, but that’s not the intention. There are also unfinished seams and a few loose threads, but this is also intentional. One might argue that this approach masks the seamstress's shortcomings and sells them as a feature, but I believe that if someone gets machines from the 1920s to the 1970s up and running and adjusts them to their liking, their sewing skills will be more than adequate. Aside from that, the jeans feel solid. Only The buttonholes feel a bit loose, which might cause them to stretch too much and not hold the buttons securely. After the initial wash, the seams start to pucker and especially the roping looks fantastic. Simone definitely knows how to handle the Union Special. The buttonholes also shrank a bit and it feels more secure. **Summary and Conclusion** Overall, the 411 is a pair of jeans that perfectly embodies the concept of WWII jeans, as we've seen increasingly in recent years. The feeling of receiving a deadstock vintage pair is well conveyed. However, Word of Mouth has to measure up against a brand like Conner’s Sewing Factory, which is a high bar. At CSF, only machines that existed at the time of the jeans are used. WOM has the same level of accuracy. As a new brand, WOM is also dependent on "run of the mill" denim and doesn't have the option to use proprietary denim. Such denim comes with a significant financial risk, and according to Simone, he (still) lacks the expertise to help developing his own denim. WOM’s big advantage over CSF: you can order the jeans via Instagram without having to travel to Japan. Priced at €340, WOM is in the higher range. In terms of concept, I have to compare WOM with brands like CSF Rebuilt and Ooe Yofukuten. Rebuilt and Ooe are both cheaper; only CSF is more expensive. However, Ooe works in batches, and not every pair of jeans is made from start to finish before starting the next one. Rebuilt also works in batches, but these are smaller and more variable, depending on the orders received. Generally, the low Yen exchange rate makes it harder for WOM to compete with the Japanese competition. Established brands are now available at unprecedentedly low prices. Then there’s the matter of brand provenance, as I mentioned earlier. Japan simply holds the highest regard as a country of origin for jeans, something even Simone acknowledges by sourcing his denim, hardware, and threads from Japan. I was skeptical too, and for this reason, I probably would never have bought a pair of WOM jeans, despite liking the photos on Instagram. Therefore, I’m very grateful to Simone for giving me the opportunity to receive and test these jeans. Perhaps it will convince others to take off their "cherry-red Japan glasses" for once and try something new.

It's very rare that I find a pair of jeans chainstitched to my exact inseam but these MF are my personal pot o gold. Vtg denim RR cap Batman 251 Tee Vtg painted leather belt Turquoise and Coral blanket pin New to me Mister Freedom Outlaw in Cone Western work boots w/ rope embroidery

Just some quick comparison photos. S601xx, S506xx, 601xx-C, 506xx '33, 601xx '42 and 506xx '42. The WWII tux and 1942 tux are made from the same denim.

Post wash, almost 3 years on both pieces. Jacket has gone through a couple of repairs through self edge and the jeans surprisingly have held up really well.

JOHNG MUNG DENIM

Just got a dead-stock pair of 1954ZXX, the date on the tag is 4309, so assuming 2009 Just a couple of things are throwing me off, first is the 1996 date on the flasher The back of the waist button is blank No pocket bag print Everything else checks out on them and they smell old Thoughts anyone, or does anyone still have a pair from this period to compare with mine?

Few randoms as I clean out the closet: Levi's 519 Premium line, purchased from Levi's Kyoto store in 2006. My first pair worn from raw, loooove the vertical falling on these, really comfortable fabric as well (maybe 10.75 oz.?) Sugarcane 1966 from 2010. Need pictures of the frontside sometime, the whiskering is really ideal for my taste. TCB Contest Jeans: Can't remember when this was, but I really tested the limits on this fabric with washing/drying. Wouldn't do it again as I prefer a more balanced washed/air dry look these days, but it was an interesting experiment. The fabric itself has wild puckering/marbling properties They're really that intense in real life too, really comical 😅

Thanks for this. The pizza tab! I don’t equate Japan with being a mecca in anything other than obsessing over details that I personally enjoy. When it comes to construction itself I don’t think they’re inherently better, I’ll confidently say that some of my earlier jeans from Raleigh (nc, usa workshop) and Companion (Barcelona workshop) were made every bit as well as just about anything I’ve ever gotten from Japan and in some cases notably better. I moved away from those brands because of things like pattern, details (including no cotton thread), lack of unsanforized options, and cost. Japanese brands tend to solve all of those issues. WOM seems to solve most of those issues, which is cool to see. If an American brand offered an unsanforized denim from proximity or Vidalia mills with a good pattern and cotton thread and classic details at something like a comparable cost (maybe I’d pay 10 to 20% more?) to Japan I’d love to try, for instance. But I haven’t seen it.

Completely agree with the topblock of the 601XX 42 vs the OA SOA03XX WWI. I've been rotating those pairs (alongside SC's 1946 and S1943 'super denim collectibles') and the OA's definitely have the slimmest topblock, and most 'regular' feeling denim, but very nice at that as is typical with OA. Been fun wearing pairs based on the same era, but with such different detailing and denim.

Thanks! And it's a bit hard to say honestly, the last few months I've been wearing my WWII OAs, but I do miss how loose the 601's are in the top block by comparison. I think my favorite fabric is the WWII denim. But I felt like I washed my S601xx's a bit too frequently / early. So with the '42s I plan on trying to go for a little more contrast and see how the fabric reacts to that.

Horween Cavalier, python and matte nickel hardware

@aho if there's a sudden Marble-wash revival, we'll all know who to blame 😁

runabout brander Runabout sample jeans Nicks boots

Got to visit the new Seattle Aquarium expansion today. I helped install the piping for all of the sea life areas. Crazy that I was inside that huge tank when it was empty.

If I had seen them in a shop, yes. The quality is right there. Of course, as @AlientoyWorkmachine said it shouldn't surprise anybody that in other countries similar jeans can be made. Somehow the vast majority of brands talked about here are from Japan though. I think, because besides Japan, there is aren't many other countries/brands doing these jeans. Where the seamstresses originate is another question 😉

Awesome write up @beautiful_FrEaK. I have a lot of respect for someone who takes the risk and starts making jeans (or goes out on their own for any endeavor). The denim, construction and fit look quite nice. I personally love the ‘pizza’ tab. If you saw these in a shop would you be inclined to buy a pair?

@bod both the Lvc 1955 model and the 1954 model use pocket flashers with the 1996 date on it - just looked through my denim labels box. Also l have found a few of the earlier lvc pieces with blank top waist buttons so it's not necessarily a concern unless there's no wash tag.

@beautiful_FrEaK excellent, factual and balanced review 👏

Self Edge Records - William Gibson Next up in our Self Edge Records series we have the one and only, William Gibson. Speculative writer William Gibson's selection of tracks focus on story telling and imagery that hits you "like really good prose fiction". William Gibson is a pioneering science fiction author best known for his 1984 novel Neuromancer, which introduced the concept of "cyberspace" and laid the foundation for the cyberpunk genre. His work often explores the intersection of technology, dystopia, and human consciousness, making him a visionary in speculative fiction.

Looks like something Houdini would escape from

@JDelage looks like a western shield shirt, where the bib opening can be opened either way. Think Lvc did a repro back in the mid '10's but probably impossible to find now.

Definitely not going to take credit here, Hoosier handles the calculations for me. The jeans were about 35.5 in. unwashed before the hem, so he took about an inch to an inch and a half off. And correct, this is the same denim as the S601xx / S506xx from a few years back.

Havasupai men in shelter. Looks like someone is making new shoes... (1919 Glass negative from Frederick Webb Hodge)

The WH 1947 is a bit weird because the top of the coin pocket has a lock stitch, while the standard 1001xx has a selvedge which probably explains their difference in puckering. The new Denime 1947 also appears to be a lockstitch at the top of the coin pocket, but I can't quite tell from stock photos. I think that for a given denim though, lightning fades might be more pronounced when the coin pocket denim shrinks in the direction perpendicular to the shrinkage in the underlying denim as this would place the coin pocket denim under the most stress. To your original point though, I think that you are right and that certain denims will show this effect more than others depending on yarn choice, weave tension, etc.

Looking at your @yung_flynn comparison photo, it's interesting that the 1947 pair has lightning and roping on the top edge, but really no puckering on the outside seams under the rivets. The Warehouse pair below (not sure which model, but maybe one that you mention?) has puckering on the outside seams, but no roping or lightning from the top edge. I can confirm this with the pairs I have. From left to right Warehouse S1000XX, Denime 220A, Warehouse 800 and Warehouse 1947 Duck Digger - all in different states of wear (obviously). The denims used for the pocket and coin pocket in S1000XX, 220A and 800 have denim facing the same direction and show what I mention above as having puckering on outside edges, but a pretty flat top edge with no roping / lightning. The 1947 (although mine are hardly worn) has perpendicular overlapping denim (as you also state) and I can see some tension from the top edge that may lead to the lightning and roping. I think @Dr_Heech is right that shrinking plays a huge role; as the denim shrinks in different directions and pulls at the coin pocket differently throughout, it's going to inherently cause different results when it comes to fading, puckering, roping, lightning, etc.

A few hours out hanging in the Texas sun and they're almost completely dry. Just did a hot wash, gentle cycle. Here are the results. 601xx w36: Waist: 19 in. -> 18 in. Front rise: 14.75 in. -> 14.25 in. Back rise: 19.5 in. -> 18.5 in. Thigh: 14.5 in. -> 14 in. Knee: 11 in. -> 10 in. Hem: 10 in. -> 9.5 in. Inseam: 34 in. (hemmed) -> 32 in. 506xx sz46: Chest: 25 in. -> 24.25 in. Shoulders: 22 in. -> 21 in. Length: 26.5 in. -> 25.5 in. Sleeves: 26 in. -> 25 in.

I agree that there are probably many contributing factors, but I do think that the relative denim direction in the coin pocket area is a key parameter particularly after accounting for the primary direction of shrinkage as a result of the difference in orientation. It's noticeable if you scroll through Warehouse's sample photos. Both the Duck Digger 1947 versions of the 1001xx and the standard 1001xx use the same denim. However, the 1947 version with its perpendicular coin pocket orientation almost always has a pronounced vertical coin pocket lightning fade, while the standard 1001xx with its parallel orientation does not (at least in the WH provided sample photos). The Denime 1947 seems to be oriented like the Duck Digger and has a similar lightning nbolt

I'm getting around to washing my 1942 tux (managed to hold off for almost two whole months ), here are pre-wash measurements if anyone is interested. 601xx w36: Waist: 19 in. Front rise: 14.75 in. Back rise: 19.5 in. (!!!) Thigh: 14.5 in. Knee: 11 in. Hem: 10 in. Inseam: 34 in. (hemmed) 506xx sz46: Chest: 25 in. Shoulders: 22 in. Length: 26.5 in. Sleeves: 26 in. Will take some comparison photos with the ww2 tux once they're dry.

Don't forget the shrink factor. Here for example is a pair of late 60's 501's, the denim shrunk 8% and the result is these creases. Sorry for the pic quality, just screenshotted this from lnsta.

Warehouse 2002XX (with a nod to @Kit Carruthers for that, cheers!) Toys McCoy Warehouse Asahi

Picked my 1082's back up from the local seamstress yesterday too (along with the WH/Denime delivery this was a real treat day). They're great, really comfortable and sitting in that loose but not wide mid-range. Got a bit more inseam left on for now so wearing with a breezy ankle cuff, over time I'm fairly certain that will go. Anyway, lovely chinos, just what I was after. I can probably now safely turn my Buzz Rickson OG's into shorts!

220XX-47’s arrived yesterday. First thing I noticed when unpackaging them was how light they feel in comparison to the 220A offset model. The fit plus the weight of those just was not for me, but the same cut/fit with this lighter material is much better. I’ve laid them out with 1000XX DSB and 1001XX banner denim to compare, photos not great but in real life the denim is fairly regular in texture, quite smooth and a really lush dark blue. It's overall really nice looking and feeling. I bought these one-washed from Warehouse and also had them hem them, judging by the original hem these will rope to high heaven. (Ideal as my current obsession with getting the most imperfectly perfect roping on the hem is hitting a peak). Not included a fit pic yet but the fit on me in size 34 I would describe as "smart", i.e. snug but comfortable through the upper half then straight down from the knee. The one-wash process (unsure exactly what process WH use) seems to have been fairly heavy duty so here's hoping these remain as a comfortable "smart" pair. There are some real "Ghost of Hayashi" vibes present. Also noted the immediate presence of the trademark lightning strike on the coin pocket. These are currently in a cool wash, getting that hem nice and puckered (honestly it is an obsession), then I'm kind of spoilt for choice at the moment but once things cool down towards the end of this month I can see myself wearing these a lot. I'm interested to see how the fabric fades in comparison to the 220A fabric (as masterfully displayed by @beautiful_FrEaK!!)

I’ve started wearing a small shoulder bag to keep my keys/phone/wallet/other EDC like the gentlemen of Japan do, so I was looking out for a simple, slim long wallet to replace my beefier denim nerd ones. I found this Porter Yoshida one used on Mercari for very cheap, and it’s just what I was looking for. Nice Italian veg tan leather with a lovely patina, neat sewing, made in Japan. Plenty of space for my stuff, but slim enough that I could keep it in a jacket breast pocket if I opt to leave the bag behind.

It was a lost weekend in a hut in Hathersage, luckily not double pneumonia in a single room… A top escape for me and the lad in the Peak district Walking in the great outdoors, staring into meadows while drinking morning coffee, making friends with the sons of stags, listening to streams trickling, swimming in the local lido, sticking to a caveman diet of meat, fruit and veg and chilling away from it all Walked up Stanage Edge and Bamford Edge. At one point, I thought I heard a rumbling down below as if someone was in the drains and then a cool bike flashed past… we were deep in OO Soul country so who knows if it was him or not… Importantly there was denim on the trip… tatsunosuke military trousers and Freewheelers 1930s set-up

Went up the aisle yesterday Paul Smith Grenson My eldest son was the best man Also Paul Smith & Grenson

army civilian shirt Runabout jeans Nicks boots

Some detail shots and a fit pic of the linen jeans. These things are so comfortable it almost feels wrong. Fabric has few, but significant neps. In general it’s a bit more irregular than the denim I’m used to wearing but nothing like those brands that make it a point. Looks like it was a bit tough to weave. Linen pocket bags are a nice touch. Worn about 4 days and like linen does the creases set quickly. Raised pocket seams are interesting. Happy with this pick up. Jacket pictures later, I don’t have it with me on this trip.

runabout tee Runabout jeans birks

Another 1890s tux photo. This denim is really crinkling quickly. TCB/J Press shirt/Rancourt loafers Because I love the jacket so much here is a bonus that I forgot to post earlier TCB/Wythe tencel shirt/Buzz chinos/ Hollows belt/Franks boots

My old San Antonio, TX made 1933 LVC 501's patched and repaired and still going strong. Cone Mills White Oak denim never disappoints.

my 220 A after 7 months in ... First 2 pictures are most close to real color.

s601xx with flannel pockets on top. Super repairs from @julian-wolf 1937 jeans on bottom. Sometime I wish they looked as good as @MJF9 pair. Haha

Lot 800 c/l worn since 2021 and every summer and spring since then

Agnostic Front in the late 1980s

I've had this Old Navy shirt for like 9 years now, longer than I've been interested in raw denim. It was just a cool shirt that fit me well, and has treated me well this whole time. The second to last picture shows what the fabric started out like where the placket has frayed and opened up. I've had to repair both elbows which I did with a fun floral fabric I had on hand.

Just came in and may be the best I've had a flat head t fit. 42, one size up from all my old ones. Now I want some more... jeans are RJB D105-14FW, boots are RMC Buco engineers which I'll post in the shoes that look better with age thread