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Mended the cuffs on my Lee cowboy jacket. Dirty job, needed to get donen papa nui, Lee, fullcount, vans

MF/Drake's/MF/FC/Sebago

Freewheelers - WW2 tux (newly hemmed by @Mr Black), Ironalls and sweatshirt / Converse Timeline / @Duke Mantee and Rototo not visible

Halloween party last night. Paris, Texas became one of me and my girlfriend's favorite movies when we watched it after someone posted stills of it in the iconic denim photos thread.

I'm in a reflective mood today.. In the early to mid 90s i was living in a shithole of a bedsit and barely affording my £28/wk rent.. when it came to buying clothes, my budget wouldn't stretch to new so i just bought vintage.. In the days before the internet, i had no clue as to what i was buying other than the fact they were old Levi's and a quarter of the price of the 501s you could buy on the high street.. A couple of years passed and i started to earn a bit more £££s.. i bought a pair of 555 LVC-47s.. in retrospect, this was probably the first time it occured to me that the vintage Levi's i'd been buying previously could be from different eras (ikr? .. you internet kids don't know you're born) around 2003 i bought another pair of LVC and wanted to get them hemmed.. back then I didn't know what a Union Special was, all i knew was i wanted the hem to be the same as the existing hem.. ie- 'not single stitch' .. i took them to a laundrette who did alterations but they said they couldn't do it.. i would have to find someone with a machine that could chainstitch.. i went down to Ted Williams.. a proper old boys tailor on London Rd who said he could chainstitch but it wouldn't look exactly the same because the hem was done with a chainstitching machine rather than a sewing machine with a chainstitch setting.. plus he didn't think his needles would be strong enough to penetrate the layers of denim.. more confused than ever, i found myself down a gennel and up a rickety fire escape to Terrace Tailors on a Sheffield backstreet.. the room had a massive cross on the wall with candles either side and a polaroid of the tailor himself kissing the hand of Pope John Paul II ..? I explained what i wanted and tape measure around his neck. he took me into another room with a rail full of clothing.. top rail was garments waiting to be altered, bottom rail was altered.. (this is the single most significant part of my entire journey through the denimsphere) he pulled out a pair of SC-47s and showed me the hem.. it blew my tiny mind.. i didn't even know Japanese repros existed.. i almost had to go light one of the candles He said they were from a small menswear shop in Sheff called Brother 2 Brother.. he would hem them (a little longer to allow for shrinkage?) using his sewing machine which could chainstitch.. I knew where B2B was, i'd just never been in, they stocked the likes of Maharishi, D&G, Margaret Howell, Dries Van Noten and such.. (high end streetwear through to mid-range fashion labels) this was well before the 2008 heritage boom so 'menswear' didn't yet equate to costly workwear, shops following the JP retail model didn't exist back then.. Nigel Cabourn was still designing highstreet tat for Debenhams rather than pricey Everest-wear. The guys who worked at B2B were always immaculately dressed (in their shiny shoes) i just wasn't (in my tatty randomly sized vtg Levi's, or skateboard jeans from a previous lifetime . i never went in because my pockets were never deep enough to buy anything, the labels were not my steeze and i felt intimidated by the smartly dressed staff, all of whom were a good 10yrs older than me.. but i was desperate to go nerd out over the Sugarcanes.. Niro (the UK distributor of SC) was established as a clothing store in 1986 but i'm not sure exactly when they became the Sugarcane distributor so maybe these SCs came from Niro or maybe they were bought retail by the B2B buyer on a trip to Japan?.. either of these explanations could account for the eye watering price tags.. my questions were many and looking back.. i think they knew as little about these jeans as i did.. they gave me a 2003 Sugarcane Catalogue (to shut me up) which i've kept.. I think this was the first catalogue Sugarcane ever produced, i've never seen anything predating it. it's on the cusp of the SC product codes after they moved on from M .. it's more substantial, more of a yearbook than the magazine type catalogues which would come thereafter.. in the months following i bought a marked down pair of SC-47s from B2B, returned by a customer because they were too small after washing... the sufu sizedown 3 craze was yet to happen A couple of years later, B2B moved premises to a larger retail space underneath the recently opened West One development (across the road from The Designers Republic) a friend of mine did the electrical work for the shopfit.. he got me the 2006 Sugarcane catalogue, it was in here that i first spotted the LoneWolf Mechanic boots.. the 2010 catalogue which i've posted here previously (MF thread.. years ago) came from Vari. I couldn't afford B2B asking price for Sugarcanes so i found myself on the internet.. Hirofumi Udono at Vari was great to deal with, he spoke perfect English and was willing to ship internationally. He lined me up with Hawaii's, Lonewolf boots, Whitesville & Cushman sweats..ect.. i was wearing SC-47s around the time my kid was born in 2009.. (another reason why I’m so attached to them) i didn't do WAYWT back then.. i didn't have the balls but seen here (blurry candid shot) loading the car up with Woolrich Woolen Mills, chambray Upland shirt from the Daiki Suzuki era I found myself here at sufu around 2006/7.. anyway.. enough of all this reminiscing.. Maynard spotted these while searching for his recently acquired SC-66 and gave me a hola.. ..knowing my pathetic inability to resist.. i didn't .. so In a nostalgic denim haze, i've dug out the rest of my SC-47 collection. ..first 4 pairs are raw denim, last pair are current wearers but previously o/w, check out he different hues ..from left, 1991-1997.. 2003-2007 I took this shot of he o/w pair back in 2013 before chucking them on the pile ..i've just got them back from a hem job at soas so i've recreated it A bit more graff, a few extra MMs on the waistline and the JMC sweat is a little more faded 2003 & 2006 Catalogues can be seen here

Buzz Rickson Uniqlo jumper Warehouse 1001XX 25th Anniversary John Lofgren M43

From a recent vintage market. Pic by @Illcutz Cap- self made Hoodie- warehouse Jacket- style eyes Pantaloons- warehouse

Bottom half same as the last few posts. Newly acquired John Gluckow shirt (from S&S, first time in the new Berkeley store). RMC undershirt. Vintage hat also recently acquired.

TCB jacket, Tender sweater, SDA pants, golden retriever.

FW, BB, FW, Lofgren

Great Lakes x2 / Hollows / Cane’s / Frank’s

contribootin’ aero tcb sugar cane russell

Freewheelers 30s tux, cinched and beltless / Buckweat

@MJF9's jacket found a new home

Papa nui, universal works, RMC, vans

Pulled my old pair of 1966s out of the attic while digging out some sale items (https://www.instagram.com/jim.shoppe/ ). These *aren’t* for sale but they look neat!

I struggle with mirror selfies but this one seemed to turn out passable. FW x 3, Lofgren sneakers.

Freewheelers 1927 type 1 Freewheelers 1937 jeans

Same ol hat, vintage vest, thrifted sweater, TCB 50s, Blundstones

My 1001 in need of some repairs

At Last Lot 147 tux (inc belt skimmer jacket) / Freewheelers / @Duke Mantee / Converse Timeline / Rototo not visible

New York Hat Co // Dry Bones // MF // Viberg x Iron Heart

I don’t wear these 1947 jeans as much anymore but they’re looking great. I’ve the last round of repairs on the fabric and stitching fixes, i leave them as only occasional wear so they don’t get too messed up.

When my kid was a toddler he would pull all the books off the bookshelf so i boxed everything up which i didn't want to get trashed and shoved them in my parents attic, i still don't have the space for it all so there it's stayed.. I'm pretty sure 2003 was the first ever catalogue SC produced to showcase the release of their new range with the SC product codes Enjoy, you'll not find this elsewhere on the webz.. The 2003 catalogue wouldn't fit in the scanner due to thickness so i've had to bulldog clip it open and photograph it. Hawaii Okinawa Y'all owe me a pint for this.. it took me fkin ages with my cranky old scanner.. 2006 Catalogue There was a period (post 2007) when existing stock of SC-47s were being sold with the arcs ripped out by retailers.. this was followed by a period where they were being manufactured without arcs but they still had the red tab.. then the tabs were being cut by retailers.. then SC started making them without tabs or arcs, as we see today.. There must have been constant lawsuit murmurings within the denim industry .. the old Surgarcane MP jeans had very Levi's-esque arcs.. albeit they were still broken (Kiya has commented in the past, on another forum that he thinks the breaking of the arcs was an attempt by SC to distance themselves from Levi's arcs) this is probably the best explanation i've heard as to why.. but if so, they were worried about repercussions as far back as the 1980s.. As we know, SC distanced themselves entirely from Levi / Wrangler / Lee for the 1998 series of jeans (this could be down to concerns over legal action) .. then they took the bold move to resurrect arcs and tabs in 2003.. this must have ruffled a few feathers at Levi's because by 2006 the 1947s 1955s and 1966 repros had their arcs omitted from the catalogue even though they were still being made and sold with arcs. If you look closely at the thumbnail, they've tried and failed to cover them with the guarantee ticket.. this catalogue would have been printed 18mths before the 2007 lawsuit You're Welcome

Spent a long weekend in the Denver area, enjoyed some proper cooler weather. Even saw some snow! That's a big deal for us. FW watch cap. FW M-1951. FW sweat. FW 1942. Blundstone.

In August 2021, I put a pair of Roy Peanut Pants on ice as they fit too relaxed for my liking. Some of you might remember I debated between selling them or even sending them off to experts like Indigo Proof for significant alterations. At the time, virtually all of you said to move them along or keep but leave them as is. Even Rain advised that recreating some details in the same exact manner that Roy did, might not be possible. Turns out that all of you are right. I went away for 3 years and put on 5 kilograms with food and drink, and now they fit me a little better. Still, they're long in the rise and can slip down during the day and look dumpy in the crotch and butt, but I'm much, much happier with this fit, and have a refreshed appreciation for Roy's work. It is a shame to not have a piece from Roy, but it is an even greater shame to have owned, but never actually tried, something from Roy. With that I'm gonna dump a bunch of photos here. Nothing unexpected for most folk, but I hope it does show why this hobby continues to fascinate us. Front and back photos demonstrate the rather full "relax-tapered" cut, show a glimpse of the internal cloth Peanuts®️ patch, the rounded back pockets and a vintage-looking Big Bro cloth patch with green lettering. That coin pocket is shaped exactly like the back pockets, and it is very deep and wide for an accessory pocket. The back pocket rivets are exposed but done in a manner that it does not scratch furniture. This is a 31" inseam, and combined with the very high rise (these should sit at the navel for me, and even a little above, if I were being honest about being a Super Short King) means I need quite a big double cuff to keep them like high-waters, which is how I prefer my looser jeans to sit. Right away, you might notice the fabric does have a myriad of shades and quite interesting texture. These are very sparingly worn and they are already crinkling in many parts, especially near the front pocket openings and the waistband. The roping at the hems is impeccable. Roy uses all silver buttons for this release. Despite the long rise and rather long fly placard, it only has a total of 4 buttons. I wish it had 5, but who am I to question Roy about his work? A closeup of the narrow, raised and tucked belt loops along with the kind of rivets Roy chose for this release. Check out that tightly sewn bartack for the belt loop, done in a different shade of indigo. Another closeup showing the rivets and one of the exposed corners of the coin pocket. Notice the all-white stitching used for this release. I've seen photos of some pairs of Peanut pants with a different comic strip, but here's the one that came with mine. I'm a little sad thinking the patch will probably wear off to white (or just simply tear eventually) at the top where it sits on the waistband. The shell stitching detail that loads of people love about Roy jeans. Those rivet backs look like brass. Another well-loved detail, Roy's embroidered name and size tag on the back of the front pocket bag. From what I've read, these pocket bags are cut and sewn from an unsanforized canvas material. I'm just a simpleton, so I'll tell you that these heavy duty pocket bags are extremely reassuring to have in daily use. I am positive they will put up with a lot of abuse and still feel comfortable against the thigh. There's two kinds of Rivet backs here. The ones on the fly are one, and the rest are another kind. Now this. I get very excited when I talk about this...excited as a child in a candy store. I tried hard to show it here but it isn't clear. That back pocket patch has a plumpness to it that makes it obviously sit proud to the back pocket. It appears to be sewn in a manner that would become plump as the unsanforized denim around it shrinks with washing.Yet the stitching does not cause the denim to crinkle or appear untidy. Both the back pockets and the coin pocket are entirely lined with the same off-white unsanforized canvas fabric that's used for the front pocket bags. The canvas fabric was chosen, and sewn in a manner that it shrinks with the outer denim, perhaps shrinking at almost the same rate, so that neither the denim nor the canvas forms ripples. I put my hand in those pockets and the inner canvas lies unbelievably flat against the denim. The details really do matter. Selvedge line and Roy's own pink thread being used in his very own black seed denim co-developed with the famed Cone factory. That same thread that's used for the belt loop bartacks shows itself again here. A closeup of the fabric. This is at the outseam of one leg, Don't quote me on this, but I wouldn't be surprised if the selvedge line weave and texture was done in such a manner that it would produce more pronounced train tracks with use. Again you can see this is a really sparingly used pair and we are already getting some bulging of the outside of fabric in the area. The warp threads feel quite plump and that contributes to the texture. There really isn't any pronounced slub or nep, but a constrained level of hairiness is present. Another close up of the fabric, the chainstitch at the hem and the roping. Couple of fit pics, which I put up because they're surely mandatory if I were to claim that they fit better. Notice the leg twist in equal amounts in both legs. On my frame, they are still very relaxed in the thigh with some hip flare. They generally look more flattering when worn higher at the navel but they don't always stay at that level unless I pull them up occasionally during the day. Pardon the unfashionable T-shirt hike up in the back photo, I did that just to give an idea of how those back pockets sit and what the back pocket patch actually looks like on the body. Anyway, that's enough indulgence I'll allow myself for one day, and more than enough to bore most of you. But for sure, Roy jeans are good.

Hat - mitch&ness Jumper - uniqlo Shoes - NB Levis 501xx vintage 90s Cringed as I put my foot through the knee this morning.

More 0105.

Denime - Ooe - Chucks

Challenger Phigvel Vendor Phigvel Vans

Still mostly same. Inis meain, Ooe Tux, Kapital, red wing

Freewheelers x 2 / Ooe / At Last Lot 162 / Viberg / @Duke Mantee not visible

40s repaired all over

Tilley, Tender Co. x3, Tezo, Hoggs (+ morning Luvhaus)

Phigvel phigvel Wesco

Papa nui, anatomica, buzz, fullcount, vans

A couple of photos of my 1946. The pair on the right have been washed more regularly.

no white socks today… autumn broons n greens… barbour/filson/tcb/canes/timberland plus surplus bag…

FC/Drake's/FC/Jean Shop/Board Room (sorry @Double 0 Soul)/Alden

Edit: I wasn’t feeling it. Been leaning more into the 70s vibes lately, and going to a show later in Richmond, so decided to reall lean into it today. Also did some fresh repairs to my Korean War M-52 with some Samurai scraps I had laying around. vintage/amanda shires/full count/red wing

It's cold out there. Wool coat vintage Fullcount 0105w Clarks

Having used the great group of people here as a bountiful resource for many months, I figured it was time to post some photos for the first time and share my two first TCB purchases - the Baker pant and 20's jacket. Starting with the 20s jacket, I'd first to like to thank @istewi and @blooming for the great advice regarding shrinkage and sizing. I ended up going for a size 44 off of primarily the chest measurements (I am around 172cm tall with a 50-51cm chest and weigh about 75kg) which felt like a daunting jump from my usual size but I think it worked out well. I wanted to be able to wear it across as many seasons as possible given the fabric's lighter weight so this size allows me to wear with either a t-shirt or a sweatshirt underneath (I've even managed to fit it under my Barbour). The sleeves need to be cuffed once, as I expected, but the cuff isn't bulky at all and I quite like how it looks. I am concerned it is a little on the longer side regarding overall body length, as it sits around 2.5-3cm below my belt (around 1-1.5inches) so I'd love any feedback on the fit! I love the weight and hairiness of the fabric and also appreciate that Inoue finds it is one of their more accurate repro fabrics to its respective era...can't wait to see how it fades! As the 20's fabric is prone to shrinkage (according the nice people at TCB, whom I ordered from and were also very helpful over instagram via sizing), below are my experiences with movement after a warm wash and 30 minutes in the tumble dryer: PRE-WASH Shoulder width - 49 (-1 from TCB measurements) Chest width - 53.5 ( = TCB measurements) Length - 63.5 (+1 TCB measurements) Sleeve length - 62 (-1 TCB measurements) POST-WASH Shoulder width - 48 Chest width - 52 Length - 62 Sleeve length - 62 Onto the Baker pant - I picked these up as I saw them posted a couple times here as well, and they seemed like a great idea having spent the last year with my legs swathed exclusively in denim. I got them in a size L with a waist size that hovers around 30-31 (although I had not experienced anything quite as high a rise as these yet so I was thankful for the wiggle room the side tabs allowed for). I wanted to wear these with the side adjuster tabs both buttoned as the fabric sticks out otherwise and in case I teeter into the dirty side of bulking -- the measurement guide on Bears was very accurate. They are light and very roomy in the thighs and as I am on the shorter side the taper that TCB has added seems less pronounced when wearing on my body. Lovely texture and immediately soft to wear with what I think is quite a reasonable price tag. Please excuse the Muji house slippers in the photos!

my Denime 220A Next month they will stay in closet. Tuesday I am leaving and one month Iĺl live on the boat. My daily clothing will became neoprene...

DD1003xx ‘46 after another wash. At this point repairs have been done to yoke, crotch, cuffs, pocket stitching. Pocket stitching needs yet another one. For the wear, this amount of repairs are a bit much. Got these in 2020 (?) - probably not more than 15 months total wear. Just a few times a month these days. Color is more accurate in the close ups. I do really like this pair, the denim is still quite stiff and crunchy given the amount of washes now (probably 10?) - the cut still works well for me too. Just wish they felt a bit more robust overall (I’m a broken record on that at this point I get it).

Update on my 132s, they have been washed four times now i believe and worn close to four months. Got bitten by a german shepherd a couple days ago, fortunately not hurt badly but the dog did tear a good hole in the left thigh. You can see how little the indigo has faded compared to the fresh hem scrap i patched it with. In the mountains of Veracruz, super beautiful and not too hot this time of year! Riding south this morning:

S1001XX banner denim. Repaired all over

Chillin’ in the backyard after a busy week. wythe flannel, power wear T, FW 51s, xero barefoot shoes

Another wash before going into temporary storage. 1946 model

Early 1960s paper tag 2002XX. First time ever wearing a denim jacket. I have mixed feelings so far but just not used to it I guess. This was purchased unwashed from Cultizm on Monday night. In my hands in the middle of nowhere California on Thursday, washed and now it’s dry Thoughts on fit? It feels good so far, but I have very wide hips so knew I’d likely never be able to do anymore than a couple of buttons up…