so, i'm having a pair of jeans made . . . .

[LC_Miey]

awesome Shangerss, even from the photo you can see the quality of the finish and stiching.

solid.

[mizanation]

Just wanted to say, Miz gave me a lot of cool options for the pocket bags. In the end, I went with the Hickory pocket bags. I think if I end up doing another pair. I may take a little more time, and try to find a Bingata pattern I like. I think it would be worth the additional costs, as the bags would be hand dyed. It would just give them that extra, one of a kind touch.

the hickory you chose is also quite special. it's "chameleon hickory" and will show different colors over time. right now, you can only see the indigo color though.

[Shangers]

the hickory you chose is also quite special. it's "chameleon hickory" and will show different colors over time. right now, you can only see the indigo color though.

Man, that's right, I had totally forgot. We had gone back and forth on the bingata so long, I forgot why I chose the Hickory. Supposedly, the indigo stripes in the hickory will fade to greens and reds and such over time. I will make sure to keep a lookout for the fades, and post when I see something.

@ beautiful_FrEak... let's just say they are very similar to a certain well-known manufacturer, that doesn't like flattery. Actually, they are pretty much exactly the same, while I was hoping for more of a nod to this manufacturer... Kind of like what SDA did in the past or Fullcount. Regardless, they are great, and I can't wait to start wearing them in.

[edmond]

where in shanghai are you?

[Shangers]

awesome Shangerss, even from the photo you can see the quality of the finish and stiching.

solid.

Yeah, everything is tight. I like the thread he used in the chainstitching. Different from anything else I have. Actually, the thread color overall is much more orange (~copper) than the rest of my denim.

And, for those that sent me a message about the denim. Miz said it is similar to the Warehouse 1000xx. Looking at it, it is much tighter weave than my SC Okinawas (SCs are more slubby) And for now, tighter than my 811s, though those are raw and will tighten up a lot after the initial wash. Miz said it was similar to the the DD+1 he wore, and I think it is the same denim he used in his Dbl Volante customs.

[Shangers]

where in shanghai are you?

Hey Ed,

Now I live in the west of Shanghai... BFE...hehe... I bought a house out here in Zhujiajiao 2 years ago. Before that I lived in Jinqiao for about a year, and prior to that I lived right downtown across from Yu Garden for 3 years.

I have 2 huge dogs which isn't quite copacetic with the authorities or the locals, so we moved out of the downtown.

My office is still downtown. Off of Huai Hai lu. Though with the traffic lately, I am thinking about moving the office toward Hongqiao. Which, is a cool area due to all the Asian Expats out there. Lots of Japanese and Korean restaurants.

[edmond]

oh i like the hua hai lu area..

anyways your from?the states? i might go back to there with the wife sometime next year.. she took her language in jiao tong univ. there a couple of years back...

[JSFU]

no updates on the slim cut?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@ beautiful_FrEak... let's just say they are very similar to a certain well-known manufacturer, that doesn't like flattery. Actually, they are pretty much exactly the same, while I was hoping for more of a nod to this manufacturer... Kind of like what SDA did in the past or Fullcount. Regardless, they are great, and I can't wait to start wearing them in.

I assumed something like that hence the blackened part on the pocket

[Shangers]

I assumed something like that hence the blackened part on the pocket

Hehe... yeah, you know the deal.

@demonito...

I did a summer course at Jiao Tong. It's a good program. Unfortunately, work kept me busy and I only attended about half of the time. Luckily, my girlfriend (now fiancée) didn't speak much English at the time, and my Chinese improved over the past 4 years since we met.

And yes, originally from the States.

[PeterParker]

Shangers - Damn those are nice. I'm loving the details on the Double Volante jeans. That is some dark denim! I have a pair of Eternal 811's (O/W though), and have a hard time imagining any denim being darker. Any chance you could post some fit pics? Also, for those of us interested in ordering a pair, what was the grand total on your pair?

After following this thread, I am very impressed with Kuniyoshi-san's attention to details and construction. Now I look for these things in every pair of jeans that I handle. I appreciate my jeans that have these "features" much more, namely my Eternals and Flat Heads.

[mctaran]

Great jeans! details looks just awesome.

Is it possible to make it from harder denim (17-19 oz?)

[mizanation]

kuniyoshi-san has up to 21 oz denim.

[Shangers]

Shangers - Damn those are nice. I'm loving the details on the Double Volante jeans. That is some dark denim! I have a pair of Eternal 811's (O/W though), and have a hard time imagining any denim being darker. Any chance you could post some fit pics? Also, for those of us interested in ordering a pair, what was the grand total on your pair?

After following this thread, I am very impressed with Kuniyoshi-san's attention to details and construction. Now I look for these things in every pair of jeans that I handle. I appreciate my jeans that have these "features" much more, namely my Eternals and Flat Heads.

I will try to snap some fit pics this week sometime. Been super busy with work, but I wanted to keep the thread alive, so did those quick pics yesterday. The picture with the 5 pairs of jeans shows how much darker they are than my Eternals, which are raw btw. My SC '47s are a year tomorrow (9-10 months wear), but I reckon I can't wait to put the DVs in rotation, so I will try to get some fit pics with the DVs when I do Evolution pics for the '47s.

[You Ren]

Beautiful rust patina on the buttons. The Hickory is a nice touch too, can't wait to see the chameleon fades

[Amplif1er]

Love the Threadstarter's pictures and shares. Can I know which are the sources which I can get my jeans customized w/o traveling?

[Shangers]

Love the Threadstarter's pictures and shares. Can I know which are the sources which I can get my jeans customized w/o traveling?

The OP (Mizanation) helped me procure mine from Kuniyoshi-san. I think he does this as a favor to the Sufu crowd, and to help Kuniyoshi-san with translation (in other words, he has another job).

That said, he is incredibly helpful and you don't have to leave your sofa. I think he is working now to possibly hook-up the DD+1 crew with DV jeans.

[aaronxxx]

how much do a pair of these run? 300ish USD?

[Amplif1er]

The OP (Mizanation) helped me procure mine from Kuniyoshi-san. I think he does this as a favor to the Sufu crowd, and to help Kuniyoshi-san with translation (in other words, he has another job).

That said, he is incredibly helpful and you don't have to leave your sofa. I think he is working now to possibly hook-up the DD+1 crew with DV jeans.

Sounds exciting How can i get started?

Is Mizanation looking at this post? Can you get me started please? If you want, you can email me the details or add me on MSN - getmegone [at] gmail

Thanks alot

[Shangers]

Sounds exciting How can i get started?

Is Mizanation looking at this post? Can you get me started please? If you want, you can email me the details or add me on MSN - getmegone [at] gmail

Thanks alot

Just drop a PM to Mizanation.

@aaronxxx

They are 35,000yen including shipping. If you are working with dollars, the exchange rate ain't no joke right now. When it was closer to 110yen to a $1, it didn't hurt as much.

[Amplif1er]

Just drop a PM to Mizanation.

@aaronxxx

They are 35,000yen including shipping. If you are working with dollars, the exchange rate ain't no joke right now. When it was closer to 110yen to a $1, it didn't hurt as much.

Thanks alot!

[mizanation]

hi all.

to simplify things, i am just going to post the available options here.

as far as denim, he can order other types of denim if you know what you want. i am just showing his two most popular styles of denim, the two styles that he always has on hand.

from these pics, you can tell me what you want.

ok.

for starters, fly buttons:

the ones on the top right and middle right are made out of corrosive metal and will corrode over time.

here are detail pics:

wreath fly buttons:

donut hole fly buttons:

[mizanation]

here are available patches:

top right is made out of ishigaki beef. basically like kobe beef. very expensive cows. the leather is a little pinker.

the rest are calf-skin.

[mizanation]

rivets. please ignore the bottom row of fly buttons.

the studless rivet on the very left is often used as a crotch rivet.

[mizanation]

there is only one top button available which is this one:

[mizanation]

zippers. again, these are vintage-style waldes zippers. this company used to make the famous made-in-japan talon zippers. basically you are getting a repro of a vintage talon. he has many available but for jeans these are his only recommendations. the rest of the zippers are more suited for jackets and stuff.

there are two types of zippers and two types of zipper tape. zipper tape is the fabric that the zipper is attached to.

the one on the left is the selvage zipper tape.

the one on the right is green zipper tape.

both zipper tapes are made out of 100% cotton (which is rare). the cotton will fade along with your jeans, unlike polyester.

the two zipper head styles are shown.

[mizanation]

both zippers have "WALDES" engraved on them.

[mizanation]

tabs. he has green available with the following text. you can pick which text you want showing. he will just put it on the back pocket which will show the desired text.

NOTE: he also has plain red tabs with nothing on them, except a trademark symbol ("r" with a circle around it). i will upload pics when he gets them.

[mizanation]

he also has these leather tabs. they are a little bigger than a regular tab.

you can have up to five letters printed on a tab.

this is what one looks like.

[mizanation]

ok, for inner leg seams, you have three choices.

1) overlock seam. which is what most jeans have.

2) lap-felled seam, which is where the seam is folded and sewn together so that there is a clean seam with no overlock stitching.

3) faux-felled seam. if you can come up with a better name, please let me know. this is a lap-felled seam that looks like a regular overlock seam on the outside. one of the threads is navy so it blends in with the denim. so, you get the lap-felling of a lap-felled seam but the aesthetic simplicity of a overlock seam. notice, the two stitches are visible on the inside but on the outside, you can only see one stitch.