Real Japan Blues - Jeans & Shirts...

[itsbenhere]

I don't get why this thread is soooooo dead. I think Kiya's RJB's may be my favorite fading jeans of all time.

[Cold Summer]

Do it! Become the RJB ambassador for us. I'd love to get into them, but it's hard to find their clothes on Rakuten. I've always lusted after a pair of their jeans with the diamond leather patches on the back...

In Japan RJB prohibits dealers from selling their products online, they say that they want each customer to be able to experience the garment in person before they buy it. Only overseas dealers like Self Edge, DC4, and Rivet And Hide can sell their stuff online. Vintage at least shows their stuff online, though you have to call or email to get more info. These D105s look pretty sick - great cut and leather diamonds - and you might be able to buy them online if you shoot Vintage an email, who knows.

Based on what measurements I've been able to find, RJB's cuts are better than Flat Head's, at least for my body type. The 105 and 106 both look like really good straight cuts.

[Planetarium]

Aha, that is interesting though unfortunate. It's a technique usually reserved for the lines you might find at Atelier New York.

I'm after the jeans with the untanned leather patches so I can watch them age with the denim. I'm ready to jump the workwear shark.

[jacoavlu]

shameless plug I'm selling a pair of lightly worn sexfhxrjb15 w32 here http://bit.ly/YdCStj

[Cold Summer]

What I really like about Flat Head and RJB is how they have an identity beyond the workwear stuff that seems to dominates most of the Japanese vintage-style brands. I guess the whole workwear thing bugs me because it seems ridiculous that you'd spend hundreds of bucks to dress up like a blue-collar worker who probably couldn't have cared less about his fashion. An actual blue collar worker from the thirties would probably laugh at a SuFu guy in repro workwear. Of course it's all very well made, but it strains my suspension of disbelief if you're not Roy, Hollows, or another craftsman who sits in front of creaking vintage machines all day and actually has something in common with the blue-collar crew.

Personally, western shirts, biker graphic tees, and professional poker player garb (hello, RJB) seem less incongruous with obsessing over quality, details, and paying lots of money for stuff. But maybe that's just because I'm a lunatic who thinks way too hard about all this, and my goal's always just been to wear quality jeans and stuff, not aim for replicating some particular vintage style.

Edited February 16, 2013 by Cold Summer

[spacey]

yeah the rjb denim is pretty insane. i have a pair of 103BSP's that feel pretty amazing on my skin whenever i wear them

[totaltrash]

[Cold Summer]

Okay, today I went to Flat Head's company store in Nagano and tried on some D105s, and let me say that the fit is completely awesome. It's like a straight leg jean for slim dudes: the top thigh is slim, and the top block is actually pretty similar to the Samurai S710xx (after a wash); but the leg opening is a classic straight shape. This is a pretty killer cut and I'm definitely getting a pair next year, after my 3009s are busted up.

[Kyle@TFH]

Hey dudes,

Flat Head has asked me to create an official account for our relations on internet forums, blogs, etc., so here you go, I'm Kyle at The Flat Head, aka Cold Summer.

I'm hard at work getting stuff for the site translated, there's a lot of good information there that will be helpful to people. In addition, we will soon be offering bilingual blog and Facebook posts and lots more exciting content for everyone. For specific inquiries about upcoming products and events we still recommend that you ask your dealers like Self Edge, DC4, Rivet And Hide, Tate And Yoko, etc., but I'll be here to help with general questions like sizing advice, denim qualities, and other things relating to The Flat Head, RJB, and our other brands.

[kiya]

REAL JAPAN BLUES 4 LYF.

I've spent the last 4 days at Viva Las Vegas and have worn RJB's clothing nearly every day all day... shoes, jeans, shirts, tees, underwear, socks, hats..

This is my favorite Japanese brand yet i feel that they're so under-appreciated outside of Japan.

Edited April 1, 2013 by kiya

[demonator]

hi kiya would yous ay theire 105 cut is based on a 47 or a 55 cut? then the 106 would you say its cut like a 66?

[demonator]

and also if i am a size 34 on a fh3005 . i ll also be a 34 on the 105?

[Foxy2]

I'm a W32 in most TFH (3005 & 3009), but a W31 in R.J.B. D105S

[NewStandard]

Hey dudes,

Flat Head has asked me to create an official account for our relations on internet forums, blogs, etc., so here you go, I'm Kyle at The Flat Head, aka Cold Summer.

I'm hard at work getting stuff for the site translated, there's a lot of good information there that will be helpful to people. In addition, we will soon be offering bilingual blog and Facebook posts and lots more exciting content for everyone. For specific inquiries about upcoming products and events we still recommend that you ask your dealers like Self Edge, DC4, Rivet And Hide, Tate And Yoko, etc., but I'll be here to help with general questions like sizing advice, denim qualities, and other things relating to The Flat Head, RJB, and our other brands.

made my day

[Kyle@TFH]

Yeah, RJB denim tends to have a much larger pre-soak waist, and it's stretchier than FH's Pioneer denim, so there's more flexibility available with sizing. I'd say that for the D105, you can go down a size from your 3005.

[garden gnomes in space]

do they have a regular straight fit? (post soak 32-33" waist with like a 12.75 " thigh)

[demonator]

so your saying id go with a size 33 rjb 105?

[demonator]

hey kyle what can you say about the 3005 fxr ? theyre rjb denim in a fh cut is this correct?

[Kyle@TFH]

The FXR is Flat Head's denim. The RJB part of the collab is limited to the detailing, like the embroidery and the back leather arcs (RJB's jeans have similar detailing.) The FXR jeans are basically dressed-up versions of the 3005 and 3002.

[demonator]

oh ok and kyle do can you say the 105 is similar cut with the 3005? i want a 105 as my personal pair for the moment.

[demonator]

im sorry but im super confused with all these models from RJB whats the diff between these 2?

it says the 105 is a 60's cut? i dont want a 60's cut i want a 47cut or a 50's cut cna you please clarify these? thanks buddy!

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/vintage/rjb-d105-12fw/

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/vintage/rjb-d105-11ltd/

[Kyle@TFH]

Compared to the 3005, the D105 is slimmer in the top block. It still has a regular rise, but the top of the thigh is slimmer compared to the 3005 and 3009. I think the hem is roughly the same, though - maybe the D105 is about half an inch smaller at the hem. If it's described as a 60s cut, that means it's probably supposed to fit similarly to the '66 501 cut.

The D001 is described as a '50s straight cut, and I think it's almost the same fit as a 3005. You may want to get these instead if you're after a fit that's similar to the 3005. Plus, the D001 is available with the natural leather diamonds on the back pocket, which will age along with your denim and belt, wallet, etc.

[demonator]

Hi kyle can i order directly on the fh website?

[kiya]

Hi kyle can i order directly on the fh website?

No you cannot. Flat Head sells their products only through their dealer network and their Flat Head (or RJB/Gauze) flagship stores in Japan.

[Maddogwellz]

i was originally planning on picking up a pair of FH 3009 but now that i think about it I kind of want some RJB. what would fit closest to the 3009? i was thinking the 105 BSP would be the one. hoping kiya will chime in cause i know he had an amazing pair. also how does this denim compare to flat heads pioneer denim?

Edited April 16, 2013 by Maddogwellz

[kiya]

i was originally planning on picking up a pair of FH 3009 but now that i think about it I kind of want some RJB. what would fit closest to the 3009? i was thinking the 105 BSP would be the one. hoping kiya will chime in cause i know he had an amazing pair. also how does this denim compare to flat heads pioneer denim?

The 105BSP and the 3009 are different fits, the 105BSP for starters has a lower rise. To better understand the differences i would compare the measurements on our site in the size that you need.

[Rightyow77]

The 105BSP looks great, pretty close to what I have in mind for my next pair. Is there a looser more relaxed cut available by R.J.B with a straight leg from the knee down similar to the 105BSP with a larger presoak thigh and rise measurement but with a similar leg?

I might size up one from my true waist in the 105BSP once I retire my S5000VX

Edited April 16, 2013 by Rightyow77

[setterman]

im sorry but im super confused with all these models from RJB whats the diff between these 2?

it says the 105 is a 60's cut? i dont want a 60's cut i want a 47cut or a 50's cut cna you please clarify these? thanks buddy!

http://item.rakuten..../rjb-d105-12fw/

http://item.rakuten....rjb-d105-11ltd/

They are not a 60s cut. They're a low rise, straight leg, that's on the trim side in the thigh. You want to label them a certain era, then consider them a 40s cut with 2" lopped off the rise. Beautiful jeans. If they had another 1 1/2" of front and back rise, they'd be one of my best fitting pairs of jeans.

[rosarkar]

Like what I'm seeing in this thread - sudden urge to buy a pair of RJB's. Hoping some magic takes place within the next 18 months and an indigo/indigo fabric gets released.

Edited April 17, 2013 by rosarkar

[Kyle@TFH]

Rightyow: Yes, the D001/D101 is probably what you're looking for. There's also a D305 described on the site as a "loose fit straight" cut, but I'm not really sure how it compares to the others.

rosarkar: If you like your SE05BSPs, then you would probably also like the fit of the D103A/103BSP. The 106BSP also would fit nicely. RJB's denim has a similar but different flavor than Flat Head's, I think you'd like it.

I wouldn't call the D105 a low-rise jean. The front rise is about the same as the 3005 or 3009, but the back rise is 1-1.5" shorter. That can make a big difference if you have a larger bottom - in that case, you might want to go for Flat Head's jeans or the D001 instead. If you're a skinny guy like me who finds the top half of most straight cuts way too loose, the D105 seems like it'd be a really good choice for a classic but well-fitting look.

The way the top block of the D105 fits actually reminds me a lot of a Samurai S710xx in the same size, except for the slightly shorter back rise on the RJBs. Unless Flat Head comes out with something really unexpected before then, I'll probably start wearing some D105s about a year from now.

Edited April 17, 2013 by Kyle@TFH