Stronghold Denim

[Bill2]

hey bill what kind of good bourbon you got at the shop?

Makers Mark. Just the good stuff

[Bill2]

Makes sense that the Mayor of L.A. would wear jeans from the origional L.A denim manufacturer....

Very nice guy. He didn't even just roll through for a photo op. He stayed and hung out for over two hours!

[Servo2000]

I really need to stop by sometime.

[dino might]

what are the jeans hes holding

[Conie Jeans]

I want to go there..

WOW...www.irondenim.com

[JFleshman]

That fit is amazing! That alone sells it for me. Though, I feel like I should operate a steam train at least once if I were ever to own these jeans.

How would these look faded, if they would at all?

2x1 R/R Hickory, right? I probably mixed that up.

-JF

[JFleshman]

Our new exclsive Cone Denim. White Oak Green Selvage, in celebration of the 100 year anniversary of the Cone White Oak plant. Teaser shot...

Selvage Samples: (top to bottom) Cone White Oak Green, Herringbone - solid yellow ticker, Veggie Indigo Organic, Persimmon Fruit dye Organic, Charcoal Mineral dye Organic

Mmm... so, that Herringbone makes me nauseous if I stare at it too long. I wonder if it has that effect in real life!

-JF

[pacioli]

Mmm... so, that Herringbone makes me nauseous if I stare at it too long. I wonder if it has that effect in real life!

-JF

Solid stripes have that effect. In a previous job I worked for mass mass jeans manufacturer. Orders that use stripes actually cost more (for the mfg. to make) because operators would get nauseated/dizzy and take breaks. Since sewing cost analysis is done primarily by # of minutes required every second counts.

But different people have different levels of tolerances.

[JFleshman]

Solid stripes have that effect. In a previous job I worked for mass mass jeans manufacturer. Orders that use stripes actually cost more (for the mfg. to make) because operators would get nauseated/dizzy and take breaks. Since sewing cost analysis is done primarily by # of minutes required every second counts.

But different people have different levels of tolerances.

Very true. I'm a nancy boy. My pseudo denim tights of slim-cuts are testimony to that.

-JF

[Bill2]

Dino:

They are our Straight Leg, Delta wash. Delta is our most multi-stage wash. The wash is based on a pair of 1930's Lee's that we have in the Stronghold archives

[JFleshman]

This place sounds like a very special Haven for Denim Heads alike.

Lettin' myself dream..

-JF

[dino might]

Dino:

They are our Straight Leg, Delta wash. Delta is our most multi-stage wash. The wash is based on a pair of 1930's Lee's that we have in the Stronghold archives

they look very nice, i wouldnt mind at all having a pair of nice pre-distressed dungarees

[truestorytravis]

My compliments to all of the fine folks at Stronghold--I just bought a pair of your 'slim leg' jeans from Sam and Ryan at CONTEXT and I think they are FANTASTIC. The denim is the most unique I've seen on jeans from an American company and the jeans as a whole easily hold their own against any of the Japanese brands. The denim has horizontal striations due to the patern of the slubs and it's hard to stop staring at it. Some of my favorite details are the hand hammered rivets, the stitching on the fly placket, the "hidden" blue stitching under the middle-back belt loop, and the bi-color fly buttons.

I wasn't even planning on buying any jeans before I walked into the store but it took about two minutes to decide that I had to have them--and I'm the type of guy that agonizes over what my next pair will be. Again, fantastic jeans and highly recommended. Thanks Sam and Ryan!

[Bill2]

What a shining review! Thank you much for your kind words. Wear your jeans in good health! When they're ready for some repairs in about a year or so, send them to me and we'll have the same gentlman who made them, repair them for you. No charge.

-B

[JFleshman]

The denim has horizontal striations due to the patern of the slubs and it's hard to stop staring at it.

I'm curious. Are you referring to this sort of dye look?

That's me w/ my SEXSC. The dye on these pants are what makes me love them so damn much. I was wondering how they were able to do that. Haha, maybe I should just ask the man who was 1 half of the collab, Kiya.

-JF

[Panda-san]

Any chance of a Type 3 jacket made out of that greenline Cone denim?

[truestorytravis]

What a shining review! Thank you much for your kind words. Wear your jeans in good health! When they're ready for some repairs in about a year or so, send them to me and we'll have the same gentlman who made them, repair them for you. No charge.

-B

You're welcome and thank you Bill. The possibility of having them repaired by the person who made them is now my favorite part of these jeans. I'm looking forward to wearing them well.

I'm curious. Are you referring to this sort of dye look?

JF, this isn't a result of the dyeing but of the weaving of the fabric. In addition to the more standard vertical lines found in some slubby denims, there are also more widely spaced horizontal patterns of slub that run the length of the jeans. More weft shows through than warp in the pattern so they become subtle white "stripes." I can't really point to another denim as an example, so I just encourage you to get a pair in your hands--you'll be impressed.

[truestorytravis]

Bill, could you tell me where the denim used for the DM006 comes from (country and mill)?

[Largo]

JF, this isn't a result of the dyeing but of the weaving of the fabric. In addition to the more standard vertical lines found in some slubby denims, there are also more widely spaced horizontal patterns of slub that run the length of the jeans. More weft shows through than warp in the pattern so they become subtle white "stripes." I can't really point to another denim as an example, so I just encourage you to get a pair in your hands--you'll be impressed.

Yeah, it's a difficult effect to explain without seeing them in person, and I definitely can't think of a similar denim off the top of my head. If you've ever seen a pair of the streaky 'flame' denim like in some Nudies (straight sven, was it?) or the Eternal 868 10th Anniversary, they're almost like a horizontal version of that denim. Here's a picture of my Strongholds for reference, hopefully you can see the effect:

[JFleshman]

Yeah, the depth and strength of color seems to vary in the pants. I still think that the SEXSC are made in a similar manner. It's in the thread that it is a very slubby pair of pants.

I'll ask Kiya about that, though. Thank you very much for the pics!

Haha, I can't believe the Ori are also like that.. Just amazing.

-JF

[Bill2]

Our standard redline denim is woven with both warp and weft slubs, creating a crosshatch pattern as the jeans are worn in. When raw, the warp slubs are so dark they don't show nearly as much as the horizontal streaks created by the slubs in the weft. As your jeans break, the vertical falling will become much more pronounced, (as we all know it tends to do...).

Michael Cassel has a pair of Slim Legs that he's been abusing for about a year now, with about four washes. They are starting to look fantastic. Next time he wears them into the store, I'll snap a picture and you can see what you have to look foward to.

And, sorry, not at liberty to divulge who is looming that particular denim for us. Gotta keep a few details to ourselves!

-B

[andewhall]

Loving the Hickory stripes Bill.

I was googling Stronghold the other day and found this...Hickory daisy dukes and suspenders. Awesome.

http://www.wireimage.com/gallerylisting.asp?navtyp=gls====269754&source=rss&nbc=1

[JFleshman]

I messaged Kiya this morning. Here is his reply:

"

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFleshman

What makes [the SEXSC] have a vertical faded look about them? The denim appears to be striped with differnt concentration of dye. This is purposeful, right? All pairs look that way?

-JF

It's slightly streaky, it's the way the denim has been woven and dyed. The end result is a lot of vertical falling once the denim starts to fade."

Sounds the same. I asked him what technique exactly. The follow-up is almost pointless. I'm sure that the reasons are the same.

I'll post his follow-up when I do get it, though. Just to be safe.

-JF

[Fredone]

For all authentic denim lovers its a must ask as well for the japanese restaurant nearby...

[Fredone]

Denimheaven on earth this place is a denimlover knockout all experience in the best way.

[Bill2]

I messaged Kiya this morning. Here is his reply:

"

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFleshman

What makes [the SEXSC] have a vertical faded look about them? The denim appears to be striped with differnt concentration of dye. This is purposeful, right? All pairs look that way?

-JF

It's slightly streaky, it's the way the denim has been woven and dyed. The end result is a lot of vertical falling once the denim starts to fade."

Sounds the same. I asked him what technique exactly. The follow-up is almost pointless. I'm sure that the reasons are the same.

I'll post his follow-up when I do get it, though. Just to be safe.

-JF

Having handled both our stuff and the SC 1955 Denim, I can say that the nature of the weave is similar, however, the SC denim is much more tightly woven. Thread thickness seems thinner. Our denim is coarser and more uneven. The SC denim is more refined, ours more rugged looking. Both are beautiful though

[Bill2]

Here are a couple teaser shots of Michael Cassel's jeans....

[Charlie Delta]

Did those start out completely raw?

Odd whiskers.

But very nice!

[sam113]

Those look great.

Travis-

Pound on yours so we have a busted pair for the store (or at least to photograph- I could understand if you didn't want to loan them to us to hang up).

Bill-

Thanks for all your help on the details of The Stronghold. They are a perfect fit for CONTEXT.

We'll have the Slim Leg up on the site in the next day or so.

[truestorytravis]

With pleasure Sam. I'll get to you with an email about the shrinkage and such.