Stronghold Denim

[mrpenguin354]

Got some coming. Mine just finished a second hot soak. I'll throw up pics and measurements before I ship them off to Bill to get them hemmed and tailored.

Really nice looking so far.

[Bill2]

thinking about getting that some cut in the Herringbone denim or maybe in the work pants.

Bill, do you guys still custom taylor those work style pants with the 2 large front pockets and a side pocket on the leg like carpenter pants?

Jimmy: Yes, and no.... We still do make the work pants, we call them the Utility. They do not come standard with the side pocket on them, my pair have been personalized...I had the guys copy the side pocket from the first MisterFreedomxSC jean as a custom addition...I suppose we can do that again for you if you like though. Also, custom cutting utilities in your own pattern will require our pattern maker to get involved, as the construction of that pant is signif. different from a standard jean. Bottom line: yes, we can totally do it, but its gonna run you the full bespoke price of $485.... I can do one-of-a-kind utilities for you at $285 that would be on our pattern, but your choice of fabric/thread/hardware etc....

hi bill could i use semi dress leather on smoke jumpers? i mean any kind of leather on white's on a custom smoke jumper?

Demon: On a regular toe smokejumper you can use just about any leather you'd like. On a lace to toe, you cannot use the calf, water buffalo, or bullhide on the toes and heels.... you are limited to the oil tan brown or black (fleshout or roughout), distressed (fleshout or roughout), or the dress brown or black for those parts. Those parts on that boot model have upwardly facing stitching on the quarters that do not hold up well when the super-soft leathers are used, and don't look very good either, as the leading edge of the hide faces upward on the boot...

[Bill2]

My ugly mug is in this month's Lightning magazine... There's a little write up about the shop on page 195 of the new one...blue cover... Anybody with a scanner wanna prove that I'm not making it up??

[rnrswitch]

Yo Bill,

My old lady is taking me down to Venice next Saturday to pick out something from the shop for my birthday. I have soo much denim right now that I couldn't see buying a pair of jeans. Do you guys have any chino pants or maybe brown denim jeans in stock right now. I need something to wear other than blue jeans.

peace

[Bill2]

My Flame Selvage. I wore them every day from mid november-ish to mid feb (maybe take out 5 days or so). no washes

Very Nice!

I just had a pair of custom flame's made for me.... been wearing them about a week now... The fabric is really something special. Have you soaked yet?? After a good soak they get thicker and softer feeling, and take on a very lux hand. They will also bleed like a son-of-a-bitch in the wash....mine turned my whole sink blue during a quick soak....INKY!

[Bill2]

Yo Bill,

My old lady is taking me down to Venice next Saturday to pick out something from the shop for my birthday. I have soo much denim right now that I couldn't see buying a pair of jeans. Do you guys have any chino pants or maybe brown denim jeans in stock right now. I need something to wear other than blue jeans.

peace

We are stocking Bill's Khaki's in the button fly.... Could also make a pair of perssimon jeans, or do something in the Cone organic white canvas. And, alas, I will be away that week...taking a road trip up north with my folks. Jeff will be running the shop for me here, he'll treat you right!

[mrpenguin354]

So I got a pair of Stronghold Slims in and I'm planning to single-handedly make the Stronghold known for more than White's Boots (though I do need a pair).

Upon first receiving them I was kind of shocked at how soft the denim felt. I was a little concerned it was one washed, but the quality of the denim was amazing. From the outside, it looks almost like left hand twill, horizontal "stripes" almost, with a very rough and rugged look. It's kind of light weight, my best guess around 12.5 or 13oz, but still very nice.

The fit is a little strange. The top block is extremely anti-fit (at least for my skinny ass). I got a size 28, sized down one from my normal waist, and they were huge (see measurements at the end). The thighs are also pretty big, but from the knee down the cut is very modern. It's like a transition as you go down, from very vintage to modern, all in a span of 13" or so.

I did a double hot soak/sun dry to get all of the shrinkage out. Amazingly, the jeans got STIFFER after each soak. When I first tried them on, it really felt nice and soft, but sturdy. Now, after two soaks, these guys are as hard as fresh Samurais! It's really kind of cool! Shrinkage was not as much as I expected, the thigh is still way too big to justify the leg opening at the bottom, and I'm hoping the waist will shrink a little bit more so they're at least snug on my hips (or above, since they're so anti-fit I'll wear them higher and hope my ass can fill a little bit out) Overall, these are pretty amazing, as the detail pics will show. I'll be sending these out to Bill to get them tailored and hemmed and maybe some suspender buttons added, we'll see.

Good show, Stronghold!

Pics are available here. Everything is labeled, so you can tell which are pre and post soak pics.

Measurements (pre and then post soak):

Waist: 15.5" ------------------ 14.5"

Front Rise: 10" -------------- 9"

Upper Thigh: 11.5"--------- 11"

Knee: 8"----------------------- 8"

Hem: 7"------------------------ 7"

Inseam: 36"------------------ 35"

[Bill2]

Killer, thorough post, good show!! We've found the same thing with the slim cut that you did....and we're working on it now...the fit is being cleaned up and will be rereleased for fall most likely. Send them on in and we'll get that tailoring done for you!

[johnnyrebel]

do you sell any stronghold online? looks like nice stuff..

[jpsmith98]

do you sell any stronghold online? looks like nice stuff..

Context does, not sure of any other sites.

edit: appears they have very little stock right now.

[jimmyc]

Jimmy: Yes, and no.... We still do make the work pants, we call them the Utility. They do not come standard with the side pocket on them, my pair have been personalized...I had the guys copy the side pocket from the first MisterFreedomxSC jean as a custom addition...I suppose we can do that again for you if you like though. Also, custom cutting utilities in your own pattern will require our pattern maker to get involved, as the construction of that pant is signif. different from a standard jean. Bottom line: yes, we can totally do it, but its gonna run you the full bespoke price of $485.... I can do one-of-a-kind utilities for you at $285 that would be on our pattern, but your choice of fabric/thread/hardware etc....

I think I'm going to get the herringbone denims in the same cut as the hickory's you sent me last week. Thanks for taking the time to answer my question. I'll give you a call next week after you get back.

[nattomoto]

JimmyC, according to Bill, Herringbone are still on the backburner...I have been dying for a pair of herringbone and can't get them.

Bill, please get them going! We have demand here for them.

[Bill2]

do you sell any stronghold online? looks like nice stuff..

Not a lot around right now.... Call the store and I can get you into some

[edmond]

hey bill ship those babies out yet? thanks!

[Supawiwi]

Bill, do you carry any western shirt?

I'm looking for something not made of denim.

Keep me updated! Thanks

[Bill2]

Bill, do you carry any western shirt?

I'm looking for something not made of denim.

Keep me updated! Thanks

No western shirts.... trying to avoid the western and military looks, and keep it pure american workwear

[xchen]

Bill, any band collar shirts or henleys?

[Bill2]

Bill, any band collar shirts or henleys?

Coming for fall, along with Club collars....

[mpcec]

Coming for fall, along with Club collars....

Awesome... I've been on a club collar spree lately. Do you have a mailing list that I could sign up to for updates on when you get new clothes in? If not I'll just subscribe to this thread.

[Bill2]

Awesome... I've been on a club collar spree lately. Do you have a mailing list that I could sign up to for updates on when you get new clothes in? If not I'll just subscribe to this thread.

Stay posted here.....mailing list to come, but not as of yet

[Bill2]

Here are some custom jeans I put together to try out a few things....

They are in the Cone Mills redline Flame Weave denim. This denim has a pima cotton content that makes it drapey and soft inside, but somewhat coarse outside. These are made on our "Classic" pattern, which is a higher rise and full leg...probably closest to the LVC '44, and our Purist pocketing

Narrow Selvage.... 1/4" instead of the standard 1/2". A minor customization, but I really like it

Triple needle stitching at the yoke and inseam, with all white threading throughout.....Workwear inspired

(also shown, my Kamida cell phone case)

[jimmyc]

My ugly mug is in this month's Lightning magazine... There's a little write up about the shop on page 195 of the new one...blue cover... Anybody with a scanner wanna prove that I'm not making it up??

[edmond]

hell yeah!!!

[rome1]

WoW!!! really awesome Bill!

[Chicken]

didn't know michael used to live in japan.

congrats bill -- cool article.

[shoreman1782]

Stronghold (and Bill) got a mention on acontinuouslean today. Wish I could visit the store!

[jake431]

Stronghold (and Bill) got a mention on acontinuouslean today. Wish I could visit the store!

Bill - random question, but - I have been looking high and low for t-shirts that fit like this; vintage, with short short sleeves. Where did you get this t-shirt?

Thanks,

-Jake

[Bill2]

Bill - random question, but - I have been looking high and low for t-shirts that fit like this; vintage, with short short sleeves. Where did you get this t-shirt?

Thanks,

-Jake

Thats from a very exclusive french store called Target (pr. Tar-shay).... They are ONLY sold in three packs for $9.99......

In the pic I think I had just pulled the shoulders up to try and rectify my killer farmers tan from hanging out on the stoop all day....

Also, what do you guys think of A Continuous Lean? I hadn't heard of it before we were approached about the post. Seems well done though

[rnrswitch]

I get my T's at Tar-shay as well. Real cheap and almost disposable. I practice dying my white T-shirts. I did a coffee dyed shirt, Tea dyed (working on different types of teas), and trying to find other natural dyes for shirt colors.

I also dig the American Apparel unbleached white t-shirts (sustainable edition). They have a cool dingy brown to them.

[jake431]

Thats from a very exclusive french store called Target (pr. Tar-shay).... They are ONLY sold in three packs for $9.99......

In the pic I think I had just pulled the shoulders up to try and rectify my killer farmers tan from hanging out on the stoop all day....

Also, what do you guys think of A Continuous Lean? I hadn't heard of it before we were approached about the post. Seems well done though

Oh yes, Tarshay indeed. Hanes or Fruit of the Loom then?

A Continuous Lean seems pretty cool. And once again, all the pics of Stronghold make me want to hop a flight out there.

-Jake