Samurai Jeans

[gimmegimme]

Welcome all to the new and improved Samurai thread! Check out the existing thread for more info. I'll update this post on occasion with news, events, etc.

(image from www.samurai-j.com)

Happy 10th Samurai.

Be patient while we organize the first few posts. -GG

LINKS

Website - http://www.samurai-j.com/

Motor Club - http://www.samurai-c.com/

SOURCES

ONLY source for SamuraI in North America:

Blue in Green Soho - www.blueingreensoho.com

(note that back pocket stitching and tabs will NOT be present on the jeans in this store (some exceptions apply))

Gordon is extremely helpful (and patient). This is your only chance of buying jeans and having a remote chance of returning them if they don't fit. BiG offers a One-wash service if you don't want to soak your jeans yourself. They also offer a chainstitching service to shorten the inseam length.

Japan:

Most of the stores in Japan DO NOT ship outside of Japan. For information on proxies and shipping, see the Proxy Thread or the Options for Buying Japanese Goods thread.

2nd - ships internationally, but restrictions apply. Jeans, Jackets, Other.

D-Stock

Americaya

Klax-on

Hong Kong:

Take5

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

THE ONLY OPTION FOR ACQUIRING SAMURAI JEANS WITH BACK-POCKET STITCHING AND A RED TAB IS TO ORDER THEM FROM JAPAN*. BiG DOES NOT* SELL MODELS WITH THESE FEATURES.

*with the exception of lee-style reproductions and certain models with low-visibility stitching

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[gimmegimme]

SIZING ADVICE

S5000 - Size down 1 for regular fit, down 2 for slim fit. For larger sizes, see this post.

S0500 - size down 1 for slim(ish fit, true to size for a more regular fit.

S710 - true to size for slim fit, down 1 for very slim fit

S510 - true to size (see additional info below)

USA (sz. 28-33) - true to size

USA (sz. 34-38) - size up 2-3

S7000 - true to size (see additional info below)

SAMURAI FIT DESCRIPTIONS

Description of rise is only in comparison to other Samurai models.

S51019oz - "relaxed" fit; straight leg; highrise

S51021oz - "relaxed" fit; straight leg; highrise

S0510XX - "relaxed" fit; straight leg; highrise

S510XX-AI-N - same fit as other 510 models

S0500XX - slim fit; midrise; slightly tapered leg

S513XXBL - bell bottom

S710XX19oz - slim fit; tapered leg; midrise

S512XXBC - slim fit; bootcut

S5000VX - 66-inspired cut; straight leg; lowrise

S5000BK - same fit as S5000; straight leg; lowrise

S3000VX - repro cut; loosest Samurai cut; highrise; straight leg

S7000VX - repro cut; one pocket

S0110XJ - similar fit to S5000; straight leg; lowrise

S0120XJ - same fit as S0110, but with bootcut

S0210XJ - same fit as S01101

GA0510LXXII - ladies straight leg fit

USA Model - S5000 cut; low rise, cinchback

[gimmegimme]

SAMURAI SERIES

S0510XX - 15oz. denim; also S0510XXX; '47 501-inspired cut

S0510XXII - 14oz. Zimbabwe cotton; "deadstock blue" colour (yellowed); blank backpockets

S0510XXIII - 3rd generation changed to 15oz.; arcuates added

S0510XXIIIP - oversize; 50" waist; 15oz. denim; screen printed

S0510XXV - 18oz. denim; tiger selvage (black & yellow); commemorating the Osaka and Kobe victory 2003

S0510XX-LTD - 2nd anniversary commemoration model; 2005 limited edition; ® red tab; no arcuate; aged doughnut buttons

S0510XX-66(II) - 66 model; same denim as S5010XX; presently second generation; black arcuates

S510XX66-RR - 2009 Limited Edition; 15.6oz. Texas cotton; no arcuates

S0510XX-CP - beige

S510XX19oz - 19oz version of S0510XX

S510XX21oz - 21oz. version of S510XX

S510XX-AI-N - 17oz. natural indigo; rope dyed; gold-plated buttons; same cut as S0510XX; 2005 edition here

S510XX-RR - Ltd. Edition; 15 oz. Texas cotton; red tab with ®; no arcuates; aged donut buttons

S510XX24oz - Ltd. Edition; 24 oz.

S0511XS(II) - 14oz. denim; slim fit; straight leg; zip fly

S0511XS-CP - zip fly version of S0510XX-CP

S0511XS-HC - hickory stripe version of S0511XS

S0520XXX - S510 cut; 2000 ltd. ed.; 14oz. denim; ® tab

S710XX 19oz - 19oz. denim; slim fit (same as S0505XX); black arcuates

S0505XX - zip fly version of the S0510XX-66

S512XXBC - boot cut; same 19oz. denim as S510XX; presently 3rd generation

S513XXBL - bell bottom; 15oz. Texas coton denim; comes one-wash

S0710BK - 2003 model; 14oz. Zimbabwe cotton; skinny cut; donut buttons

SK2003HC - S0510XX66 cut; hickory stripe; donut buttons

S2000(III) - "great war model"; same denim as S0510XX (15oz.); presently 3rd generation; independent coin pocket without use of rivets; 1st generation - S2000;

S0500XX - 15oz. Texas cotton denim; tapered leg

S0310XX - Newest model; cut looser that the S3000VX; 15oz. Texas cotton denim

S0611-AI - Evisu inspired painted arcuates (white, yellow or red); natural indigo; zip fly

S0521BC - bootcut; zip fly; 14oz. denim

S0610LX - lowrise, slim fit, 15oz. Texas denim; black arcuates

S505XX II - lowrise 710 fit; 15oz. Texas demin, black arcuates; zip fly

ZERO SERIES

S5000VX - 17oz "Zero" denim; straight leg; donut buttons

S5000BK - black version of S5000VX; originally a 2006 limited edition (seen here)

S5000CX - sulfur-dyed (khaki/grey) version of S5000VX

S5000KA - 2005 limited edition; 17oz. persimmon tannin-dyed denim; gold-plated donut buttons; 3mm saddle leather patch

S500021oz - 2007 ltd. edition

S3000VX - "great war model" (WWII cut); same denim as S5000VX; painted arcuates

S3000BK - new 2007 model; black version of S3000VX

S7000VX - 17oz. Zero denim; 1800's style; suspender buttons; high coin pocket; cinchback; solo backpocket; doughnut buttons; black arcuate; originally a 2004 ltd. ed. (seen here)

S4000VX - 14oz. Zero denim; bootcut

JIN SERIES

S0110XJ - Jin collection; Lee 101B repro; 17oz. lefthand twill; bartacked backpockets; crotch rivet; originally a 2005 limited edition

S0120XJ - Jin collection; boot cut version of S0110XJ; zipper fly; fly selvage; bartacked backpockets; crotch rivet; originally a 2005 limited edition

S0130XJ - Jin Collection; cinchback; 2006 limited edition; bartacked backpockets; crotch rivet; looser (thicker) cut than the S0110XJ

S5110VXJ - Jin & Zero denim collaboration; commemorating the Osaka and Kobe victory 2005; Jin backpockets; Zero style arcuates; S0110XJ cut; plaid pocketbags; alternating Jin/Zero-style buttons;

S0210XJ - Wrangler inspired backpockets and leather patch; exposed reverse-rivets; same 17oz. lefthand twill denim as S0110XJ series; off-centre beltloop; black Lee-style backpocket stitching; felled outseam

GEISHA SERIES

S0510LXX - the first model of GEISHA; now called GA0510LXX with minor changes

S0510LXX-66 - old geisha; 66 cut

S0505LXX - old geisha; zip fly verison

GA0510LXX(II) - new geisha; changed to 16oz "weak tension"; presently 2nd generation

GA0513LXX - bell bottom GEISHA; backpocket-style frontpockets; 16oz. denim; pink selvage; no yoke; plaid pocketbags

WEB COLLECTION/OTHER

S526XX - 15oz. lefthand twill denim; doughnut buttons; exposed rivets; cinchback; crotch rivet; black arcuates; straight leg; 2004 limited edition

S526XXII - 15oz. lefthand twill Texas cotton denim; crotch rivet; exposed backpocket rivets; black acuates; cinchback

S634XX(II) - 2004 limited edition; 15oz. denim; cinchback; vintage/repro cut; suspender buttons; donut buttons; looser (thicker) cut than S510 series; currently second generation

S634XX-AI - 2007 ltd. edition; 17oz. natural indigo; vintage/repro cut; suspender buttons; cinchback

S0510-CO - corduroy; available in beige, navy & light grey

S041-CP - 17oz. selvage sulphur-dyed cotton chinos/khakis; offset beltloop; 4-hole shirt-style buttons

S2K1-DUC - cotton duck pants; available in blue or green

[gimmegimme]

SAMURAI MOTOR CLUB

SM5000GT-A - 1st SAC jean; 17oz. Zero denim; selvage hammer loop; no coinpocket; exposed "ufo" rivets; highrise; "000" stenciled on pocketbags of 1st production models

SM5000GT-R - 19oz. denim; cinchback; exposed "ufo" rivets; 70's car-print pocketbags (comes with matching cushion); "GTB001" stenciled on pocketbags of 1st production models

SM230BP-ST - 10oz. stone-washed hickory stripe cotton; horizontal striped backpockets

SM230BP - cotton "duck" pants; straight leg; triple-stitched stresspoint; available in green and gold

SM310DX-P - 17oz. selvage herringbone workpants; selvage hammerloop; 2 sidepockets; triplestitched stress points; exposed "ufo" rivets

SM310DX-HC - 17oz. selvage hickory-striped workpants; selvage hammerloop; 2 sidepockets; triplestitched stress points; exposed "ufo" rivets; starter-flag pocketbags

SM310DX-ST - same as SM310DX-HC, but with reversed hickory-striped material

JACKETS

S0555VX - cinchback; front pleat; no pocket flap; Type I

S0551XX - 15oz. Texas cotton denim; cinchback; front pleat; Type I

S0552XX - 15oz. Texas cotton denim; front pleat; Type II

S0552CX - 2006 ltd. ed.; sulphur-dyed; Type II

S0553XX - 15 oz. Texas cotton deim; Type III

S0553XX-LTD - same as S0553 but with embroidery

SM019B - Auto Club; 17oz. selvage herringbone; zip front

S101XX19OZ - 19oz. denim; fur collar; pleat front; zip front; ribbed cuffs

S102XX - 15oz. denim; zip front; wool flannel blanked lining; ribbed cuffs

S0111XJ - Jin series; Lee-inspired; 17oz. left-hand twill denim; 2005 ltd. ed.

S0222XJ - Wrangler-inspired; side cinches; front pleats; 17oz. left-hand twill; 2007 ltd. ed.

COLLABORATIONS

S5000XX-2ND- - ltd. edition collaboration with 2nd

USA Model - ltd. ed. collaboration with Blue In Green; 15oz. deadstock denim (formerly used for S0505); S5000 cut; cinchback; plaid pocketbags; red herringbone backpocket lining

Momotaro Lot K-091 - 14oz. organic, hank-dyed cotton

Delbombers M310XX - 19oz. denim; red pocket bags; buttons from various models used on fly; S5000 cut

2nd - S510VX - Zero denim; commemorating 2nd's 10th anniversary; anniversary patch

2nd - S634VX - another 10th annivesary model

2nd - S526VX - another 10th annivesary model

Izumi - S510 - 510 model; celebrating Izumi's 35th anniversary

S5000WX - dual patches; dual tabs; two-tone selvage (red & blue); silver stitch arcuates

S0510WX - 19oz. denim; two-tone selvage (red & blue); white tab

S0710WX - 15oz. denim; two-tone selvage (red & blue); white tab

S0210EZ0 - Unique Jeans collaboration

[gimmegimme]

Additional Sizing Info (courtesy of dino might!)

710- true to waist size for nice, manly, slim/straight silhouette (HIGHEST RECOMMENDED METHOD). one down if you have more of a skinnier-than-average-build (model chic). two only if youre nuts and want skintight 19oz jeans to hold you up when youre tired of standing on your own (SERIOUSLY NOT RECOMMENDED) (this all based on the lot 10/tagged size=raw waist size jeans) ***ATTN: SUFU FASHIONISTAS- IF YOU ARE IN THE MARKET FOR A SKINNY FASHION FORWARD SLOUCHY JEAN TO WEAR WITH YOUR SWEET HIGHTOPS AND LAYERED RO FISHNET TANKS THIS IS NOT THE JEAN FOR YOU*** (neither are any other samurais for that matter..)

0505- (same as above, same exact cut)

510- true to size for classic "501 esque" straight leg silhouette, not slim, not baggy. one down will still fit nice in the legs, though waist might be less comfortable than you like, still very possible however.

affirmation [thanks sonagi] "if your true waist is a 33, i suggest sizing down one or simply sticking with a 33... I dont think you have to worry about sizing down too much."

7000- true to size for the roomier/slouchier classic workwear cinch back look. going one down is very possible and will assure the pants will stay up after some stretching (since theres no belt loops) in addition to slimming down the legs a touch, will look a little less authentic however

[fndmybetterhalf]

thank god for this. with the recent rush of newbies rushing into the samurai thred, that thread was getting trashed...now wiat a page or two, we'll have newbies asking sizing questions and fit questions.

if i wear a sz 30 in APC's what should i get in the 710s?!

[AF Dan]

Thumbs up to Gimme x 2

[heBAY]

x-post...but I would say the USA's are "Slim S5000 Cut"...at least before you hit 33 (or is it 34?). The cut acts as if you sized down 1 already on the S5000.

[gimmegimme]

x-post...but I would say the USA's are "Slim S5000 Cut"...at least before you hit 33 (or is it 34?). The cut acts as if you sized down 1 already on the S5000.

Agreed. Theetruscan mentioned alternative sizing on the larger sizes...anyone else have a pair above 34(ish)?

[rome1]

jus subscribing...

[Panda-san]

Agreed. Theetruscan mentioned alternative sizing on the larger sizes...anyone else have a pair above 34(ish)?

I have a 38 in the USA model. I had BiG wash them and chainstitch to a 34.5 inseam. Following my own machine wash and machine dry, they shrank further to a 35 waist and 33.5 inseam. Now that I've worn them a few times and they're draping better, fit pics:

5'10" 205lbs

Added fill-flash in editing to bring out the detail.

And for what it's worth, the buckleback in no way interferes with my ability to wear my Sugar Cane belt.

[anuish143]

Rep for the thread!

[monook]

now someone should make a pre/post soak measurement chart, seeing as how BiG is lacking one

[tweeds]

great work here gimmegimme, definitely +rep. i've locked the other two samurai threads and directed everything into this one.

[raii]

i just hot soaked my 710s and they are so tight that i can only put on the final button. will post fit pics once its dry

[PERISH.]

SAM 0500, almost 2 months. 1 hot soak.

[demarco]

Rep for fellow toronto dude.

[dino might]

anyone hear anything on your 710bk or 5000 21oz???

whattafuckkkkkkk

[arem]

I pre-ordered a pair of 710bk from BiG, word is they'll be here closer to the end of the month than the middle as first reported.

[dino might]

hm, i got mine from take 5, im getting damn impatient

werent the 5000s supposed to be here last month?

[anuish143]

Does anyone know when the next production of GA0510LXX II will be made? They are sold out everywhere

[denimformytummy]

is S710BK out in the japanese market yet?

if it is, can someone please let me know where I can buy from online rakuten stores?

Thanks in advance

[Tootaloot]

Got a pair of 710's a couple weeks ago. Tagged 31, but from the 10th run, so they were down to 29 after a hot soak.

[gimmegimme]

^^ Those look great.

I have a 38 in the USA model. I had BiG wash them and chainstitch to a 34.5 inseam. Following my own machine wash and machine dry, they shrank further to a 35 waist and 33.5 inseam. Now that I've worn them a few times and they're draping better....

Good info Panda. So would you say sizing up 3 would be ideal (or maybe 2?).

now someone should make a pre/post soak measurement chart, seeing as how BiG is lacking one

Not a bad plan...but that would be a lot of work to get measurements for every size of every model. I was hoping we could just get general sizing advice first, and maybe expand to this down the road.

[blm14]

I usually wear 38 or 36 in most jeans and I got S5000VX in size 38. I wish samurai made a size 37, because after 6 or so weeks of wear I can pull them off without unbuttoning, whereas just after a wash it's a struggle to get the top button done. For the bigger guys interested in the VX denim - get your regular size because the jeans will stretch and shrink continuously as you wash them.

My experience anyways...

[gimmegimme]

^ Thanks. Link added to your post.

[Guest youkinorn]

Anyone have a good idea how much/how quickly the S0505XX denim on the USAs will stretch?

[Panda-san]

^^ Those look great.

Good info Panda. So would you say sizing up 3 would be ideal (or maybe 2?).

That's hard to say, since sizing up 2 is what I did to get this fit. I normally buy whatever size will give me a 36 waist post-wash. For my lot 9 510's, that meant buying a tagged 36. For these, it meant buying a tagged 38.

So basically, sizing up two gave me a regular fit. Sizing up 3 or (yikes) 4 might not be unrealistic if you want these to have an antifit, which I gather some people do from all the talk in the previous thread about the buckleback demanding a loose fit.

I think that should mostly hold true for the larger sizes, but I don't know how it would work for the smaller sizes.

[whatjones911]

Tootaloot, are those post soak pics? They look good.

[littlebigman]

s710. size 29 lot 10 measuring ~29" prewash. i'm 5'6" and 125lbs. hot soaked and machine dried. not hemmed. had them since december but i'm just a weekend warrior for now.