Iron Heart Jeans

[Heavy Denim 9]

Quote:

I wish the back pockets were located a little more toward the center line. Are they more toward the centerline on the smaller sizes?

--- Original message by Serge d Nimes on Sep 1, 2005 07:56 PM

Serge, Yes, but not much. About 5mm's closer per 2" reduction in waist size.

[Guest Guy H]

Here is a translated doc relating to the Jeans. hopefully it gives some useful info.

We adhered to the quality and the thread thickness specification. We import the raw materials of the thread from the Republic of Zimbabwe. The long length of fibre is the main feature. Due to the length, the thread is less twisted so the denim is soft to the touch. And also the percentage of white cotton is high, so the colour is very bright when it is tie-dyed indigo by ropes. By using this cotton that is produced in Zimbabwe, weaved the 4th thread for length way, 2 threads of the 5.4th for width way is the feature of the 21 oz denim.

Selvedge model has the same construction but for length way uneven 4th thread is used.

The point is how to use thread for width way. Normal denim is weaved by single thread for length and width way though we use 2 threads for width way. This is an idea to make it soft and easy to wear even if the weight is 21 oz.

The next point, when we put the final touches on the denim we add special silicone to improve the colour fastness. This is very special way to finish the process. However this way is very effective for 21 oz denim to make it look rigid and deep coloured - the style that is loved by motorbike riders.

This is how we weave the denim. Please remember that the thing we are most proud of are the Japanese masters textile employees. We are proud that our small product runs result in denim of the highest quality.

I spent a lot of of money on booze, birds and

fast cars. The rest I just squandered - George Best

[takashi 3,134]

"The point is how to use thread for width way. Normal denim is weaved by single thread for length and width way though we use 2 threads for width way."

This seems to support my original theory that to achieve the weight they use two strands of double-twisted weft yarn ("width way" is obviously weft, "length way" warp) in place of one.

Guy, take the sample patch that came with the jeans (I'm presuming it did...) and pick apart the edge so that you get one white thread free -- see if this 'single' thread is not actually comprised of two.

Edited by takashi on Sep 6, 2005 at 06:46 AM

[Guest Guy H]

takashi, sorry there was no sample patch.

I spent a lot of of money on booze, birds and

fast cars. The rest I just squandered - George Best

[Heavy Denim 9]

Quote:

"The point is how to use thread for width way. Normal denim is weaved by single thread for length and width way though we use 2 threads for width way."

This seems to support my original theory that to achieve the weight they use two strands of double-twisted weft yarn ("width way" is obviously weft, "length way" warp) in place of one.

Guy, take the sample patch that came with the jeans (I'm presuming it did...) and pick apart the edge so that you get one white thread free -- see if this 'single' thread is not actually comprised of two.

Edited by takashi on Sep 6, 2005 at 06:46 AM

--- Original message by takashi on Sep 6, 2005 06:45 AM

Takashi. The Selvedge Jeans do not come with a patch. I have done what you suggest with a "non-selvedge" 21oz patch and yes, the warp consists of 2 white threads twisted together. Anything else you need to know?

[docdoom 10]

orson fucking wells

Edited by docdoom on Jan 8, 2006 at 02:22 AM

[drofhiphopology 13]

man, another item to put on my list.

i got hip hop hangin in head heavy

[giantsdrink 32,423]

Does anyone have pictures of iron hearts with considerable wear? Or could point me to some?

This is sort of an old thread and they might not be around very often anymore, but I'm looking in the direction of Geowu, Guy H, or Heavy Denim.

(pictures of jeans other than of the pair on the iron heart website)

[sneakeraddict 427]

take a look at www.ironheart.co.uk and there is a gallery

[giantsdrink 32,423]

Yeah, sorry. I was editing my post when you noted that.

There's only one pair in their gallery, and it's at 5 months with considerable wear. I'm just looking for some diversity.

Thanks tho.

[kiya 1,080,191]

here at Self Edge we've been going through a LOT of the 21oz Selvedge Straight Iron Hearts, people seem to love them.

i've been wearing mine for four weeks straight, just did the soak two days ago, and for the first time in my ten years of playing with denim i saw a first.

during the cold soak ZERO of the indigo leaked, the water actually turned a funny yellowish color and the denim lost almost no color. this is from the silicon locking process that the denim goes through post production. very interesting indeed.

the only wear i've got so far is from my Dior wallet's lock tab and the wallets thick corner.

i'll know more about shrinkage once they're totally dry by tonite or so.

out of all the stuff we're carrying at Self Edge, this is my favorite so far..

[giantsdrink 32,423]

Kiya, you've gotten me totally stoked to pick up a pair of these. What a great salesperson , no wonder you're getting so much love for selfedge.

That's really interesting about the water turning yellowish. I've got a pair of Imperial Kings that I'd soaked at about 2 and a half months that turned the water yellowish. I'd just assumed that was just from the dirt and sweat coming out. Are they silicon locked too? Is that kind of like sanforization?

Anyways this is kind of un-inron heart-ish... I think it's a big thumbs up for you to peg this brand as your favorite out of all the stuff you're carrying there. Think you'll be able to take/ post some pics sometime when you slow down? Pre/ post soak evolution?

[tweeds 691,351]

yellow is likely to also be the sizing/starching that is done during the manufacturing washing out from the denim. not necessarily dirt...for those of you who are beginning to ask how much shit lives in your jeans.

[sell veg 53,995]

i'm really curious about the silicon lock. i have heard that IH take forever to break in and lose very little indigo, even through wear. but the 5 month old pictures on the ironheart.co.uk site seem to indicate otherwise. I'm wondering if hard washing them speeds up the loss of silicon, thereby speeding up wear? I would guess not because silicon isn't water soluble, but who knows.

[poly800rock 745,541]

but that's counteracted by the anti-bacterial effects of indigo right?

[giantsdrink 32,423]

yellow is likely to also be the sizing/starching that is done during the manufacturing washing out from the denim. not necessarily dirt...for those of you who are beginning to ask how much shit lives in your jeans.

Phew. Thanks for clearing that up

[Chicken 206,735]

i have a very hard time finding faded iron heart jeans on the web. it's probably because they're insanely stubborn. here are just some pics i found on the rebirth site:

[Double D 49,436]

Shame there's no sub 28 sizes, but I think I'll be picking a pair of these up when I finish uni to go travelling in.

[Chicken 206,735]

i think they kind of do have sub 28s, except that they are women's jeans and they might only have bootcuts. for whatever it's worth.

[1995chardx 196,842]

toughest denims ive ever worn before...but one thing for sure, they keep you goddamn warm haha...im waitin on the shrinkage info from kiya

[blm14 599,712]

I just nabbed a pair of these from 2000db (props!) and was wondering if anyone had shrinkage info? My pair is tight except that the inseam is too long so I want to know if it's worth risking further general tightness by washing to get the shorter hems. Didnt see any specific numbers in prior posts... Any help appreciated.

[Sais 5,842]

they look sexy

[blm14 599,712]

they look sexy

I got the bootcut non-selvage model and actually the fit is really close to my diesel zathans except for the fact that they're tighter in the waist and much longer...

[blm14 599,712]

Wow looks like I answered my own question:

http://www.ironheart.co.uk/html/qanda.htm

"Q What shrinkage can I expect?

A With heavy washing the selvedge jeans will shrink about a ½ inch in the waist, and approx ½ inch in the leg. The non selvedge jeans and jackets will not shrink any further than they have before delivery"

So it looks like no need for pre-wash and I can get them hemmed as is. Do you think BiG will chainstitch-hem jeans that were not purchased at their store?

[wild style 447,975]

So it looks like no need for pre-wash and I can get them hemmed as is. Do you think BiG will chainstitch-hem jeans that were not purchased at their store?

Yes, but it will cost you (I believe $10).

[poly800rock 745,541]

yeah they will...

[cheapmuthafukr 2,357,395]

here at Self Edge we've been going through a LOT of the 21oz Selvedge Straight Iron Hearts, people seem to love them.

i've been wearing mine for four weeks straight, just did the soak two days ago, and for the first time in my ten years of playing with denim i saw a first.

during the cold soak ZERO of the indigo leaked, the water actually turned a funny yellowish color and the denim lost almost no color. this is from the silicon locking process that the denim goes through post production. very interesting indeed.

the only wear i've got so far is from my Dior wallet's lock tab and the wallets thick corner.

i'll know more about shrinkage once they're totally dry by tonite or so.

out of all the stuff we're carrying at Self Edge, this is my favorite so far..

my canes and samurai did the same when i soaked them... no indigo just yellow water. i think its just good dye jobs.

[aubrgene 994]

I just purchased a pair or IH from Self-Edge this weekend. I"m suppose to get it via post this week. I'm really excited. Thanks GuyH for your thread. I'll be happy to give my insights/feedbacks.

[holotekor 3,824]

If you would like an optional crotch rivet, please indicate this in the "Message to Seller" field whilst checking-out. This option adds approx a week onto delivery time.

I'd wait a week for a crotch rivet. pretty sweet that they allow this option at no extra charge.

[masuerte 37,743]

I'm being serious here... crotch rivets make me feel sexy.