Your All Time Fav Five

[Maynard Friedman]

Still waiting for aho's No 5.........!

Like most people, I think my choices will change over time and may even depend on my current mood. My main criteria was that I own the jeans and have worn them or at least given them their initial wash, i.e. not raw. Here are mine (in no particular order):

• LVC 1944 (Valencia St) - a great bargain c/o Roy6. I had to have one pair of LVC and these seem less flimsy than my later models (none of which are 44s). I like the WW2 detailing - painted arcs, donut buttons and plain rivets. Oh and that little 555 on the back of the top button!
  
• SDA 101 - possibly my favourite cut and I love the dark, smooth, no-nonsense denim. A classic pair of jeans
  
• Lee 1937 101B - there had to be one pair of cinchbacks in this and they just feel more substantial than my LVC. I also like the donut buttons, non-scratch rivets, half-lined back pockets, triple stitching and hair-on-hide patch - all notable Lee features
  
• Warehouse Warren - I have these in a one-wash state and they are next up on my winter rotation list - in September 2013! Another great cut, with cool details like crotch rivet, distinctive arcs and a linen patch, all complemented by the legendary 14oz oxidized denim. I can't wait to start wearing these
  
• Flat Head 1005 - these are the exception to my rule above. They are still raw but are nominally the same cut as my worn-in F350s but with a slightly higher rise and bigger pockets, plus of course 16 rather than 14.5oz denim. I'm a big fan of the vertical fading and the electric blue colour that Flat Heads produce.
  

Edited November 29, 2012 by Maynard Friedman

[Max Power]

My contribution (though I don't own all of the pairs).

1) Samurai S 710 XX. Thanks for the kind words to Cold Summer regarding my jeans. I simply love the cut, the denim, the details and have not seen any disappointing fade on these. Might get another pair one day.

2) Denime (Old) 66 XX: Stunning fades, fantastic denim. Sizing is hard for me, but I loved to see the contest fades and liked the feel of the structure. (Wore them for a few weeks, kindly provided by b_f).

3) Pure Blue Japan 007 (or 009): love the contrast, slubbiness and feel of the fabric. Again, sizing is tricky but I wish to own a pair in the future. Have not seen a boring pair of PBJs yet.

4) Porkys: unusual choice, only based by that one damn faded pair in the Lightning denim buyers guide. But this is among my top 3 faded jeans, so it has to be named here. Don't even know the exact Lot number though. If they make inseams above 34" I might try to get one some day.

5) Eternal 888: A pair I'm rotating right now. The fabric and especially the cut is golden. Not too slubby, not to heavy, nor too light or boring. Fading takes some time but seems promising. And the whole detailing and cut is simply among my faves in my collection. The rise is about perfect, inseam runs crazy 40" raw, halflined backpockets, wabsh pockets, indigo dyed patch - what more can you ask for?

There are many other jeans I like based on individual fades, but this is it for me.

Edited November 29, 2012 by Max Power

[movingslow]

1) pbj 005bk - the cut is perfect for me and the denim just has so much character. This was my first pair of black denim, I was such a hater of it before I picked these up, but now they are my favorite pair to date.

2)samurai 710 19oz- the cut and weight of this denim are perfect. the end results of the material is just insane.

3)lvc 47's- the cut is decent, as is the fabric, but when I was running through pairs of these I had backed away from dorking out about denim; the end result of the few pairs I finally washed through me right back into my obsession.

4)samurai 0500- loooove the texas cotton. the texture of this denim is sick and the cut served me well when I was needing a more loose pair.

5) I dont have a solid answer for this yet... but i have new pairs of warehouse 660 and fullcount 1108s that i spend my nights fondling and scheming/dreaming.

[josh mullen]

1. Ooe 02

2. LVC 1967

3. Warehouse 800

4. Eternal 811

5. Samurai 710

[tigerpac]

My current 3 are my first 'real' 3 and I love each for different reasons - in no particular order

1. Strike Gold 2109 - the denim is amazing, the mud wash gives the fades this amazing bright blue hue, they just continue to develop more and more character.

2. Iron Heart x Self Edge - INDO colab - soft and heavy denim that is insanely comfortable with a relaxed cut, like wearing sweat pants.... the perfect pair to go out and battle the winter cold in.

3. Roy RN04 - hairy white cone denim with a slim hand made cut makes these a real versatile go-to jean that look great.

[Megatron1505]

Great thread resurrection here....

My top 5, all owned, all worn, and in no particular order...

SExIH01od - The "Dior" cut, in 21oz, over dyed denim, silver hardware, and the OG Self Edge and Iron Heart collab. Probably my favourite cut.

Samurai S5000VX 21oz - I have spent more time in these jeans than any other, the cut is superb, the denim evolves beautifully, and they are so damn comfortable

IHxB01XRAW - My first experience of Iron Hearts 18oz raw denim did not disappoint. Rough, uneven, feels much stiffer than the standard 21oz, and tough as nails.

Sugar Cane Okinawa - Really nice cut, exquisite details, and continues to get better with age. A true classic.

PBJ-XX007 - I'm talking about the deep dyed indigo version. The depth of colour is incredible, and the fit is perfect very similar to the SExIH01. For a lighter denim jean, they also feel very robust.

[Dirtydenim]

1. Warehouse 1001XX 15th Anniv. - Perfect denim, hardware and construction. Captures the look and feel of vintage jeans better than any other pair I've seen.

2. Evis WWII model- Accurate historical details, nice denim, typical evis quirkyness, over a decade before the rest.

3. Denime XX- Amazing denim, good cut, nothing else to distract.

4. Evisu 2001 No.0- Mysterious, hard to fade denim, odd-ball cut and sizing. Only for the truly obbsessed!

5. Studio D'Artisan D1560- Wildcard

[deadendpro]

1. Shins Denime 66XX

2. Skull 5507

3. Samurai S710

4. Iron Heart 634s

5. SEXI14 (for when tight jeans isn't nearly tight enough)

[apba1166]

First off, I'm a pretty standard 34, 6'0" 180lbs. And wore Levi 501s, 505s, 511s, and Wranglers for years (dropped the Levi'd but still wear the wrangler 13 cut a lot in a STF, and still love it)....

So here goes:

The first 2 pairs of "high'end" jeans (listed in order below) I got are still my favorites:

1. IH634S-B The fit and feel makes these the one I would grab if I could only have 1.

2. SC Okinawa. It's the hemp. And the fit reminds me of my Levi's.

3. Oni (any, I have a bunch)--but picking, I have a pair of black canvas handmade, not sure of the model number, that my girlfriend said to give away because they are wide leg and hang a bit and the fit is just--well, no fit--but are comfy and I love wearing them, and have traveled with them to a lot of places, so I told her too bad and keep trucking on in them.

IH 461S These fit great. The denim is amazing, and every time I put them on, I wonder why I am wearing anything else.

N&F weird guy blanket-double weave...perfect slim fit for me, unique fabric w/a great feel, and I can't believe how comfortable and flexible they are for a tighter jean.

[Mild7]

I'll play..

All owned and still in rotation, in no particular order..

1. SD-101; the most comfortable jeans I own, beautiful furry denim, perfect workmanship.

2. IH-634 XHS; the thickest denim I've worn and perhaps the softest. Beautiful fades, I feel indestructible in them, great cut.

3. Eternal 811; My first mij denim and still my sentimental favourite.

4. Samurai S5000vx; sensible and comfortable fit, opened my eyes to the joys of slub.

5. Honourable Mention goes to Nudie SSDS; unpopular round these parts i know, my first raw denim. The perfect cut for me, I always feel good when I wear them, which is sparingly these days. I usually fly in these for luck.

Edited December 18, 2012 by Mild7

[emergencyflowers]

s5000vx 24oz: the first time i wore these in public i was embarrassed. they were so freakishly heavy and ridiculous. fast forward 2 years and my only regret is not buying another pair when they were released.

sda 101: probably my best fit.

sda 103: sized up 2 on these. second best fit.

0500xx: only for the comfort.

don't really have a #5. plenty to choose from but for one reason or another they aren't making my list.

[PeterParker]

I'll play along. I own all of these, but only a couple have been worn.

In no particular order...

The Flat Head 1001 - First pair of MIJ denim. Great slim fit with button fly (vs. zip on 3001/F310). Top notch construction. Out of production(?). Missed the boat on the SExFH05 pair, so these were the next best thing (same denim). Interesting fact, this pair was acquired in a trade with beatle to swap sizes. Oddly, mine are still in the raw, unworn state.

Fullcount 1108-15 - I think Fullcount is the tits for their understated luxury denim. Subtle details in the construction (e.g. continuous stitching around the leather patch, curved back pockets), my favourite arcs, red tab set it off. Of course there's the Zimbabwe cotton which is much more pliable and has the softest hand weft of any denim I have felt. This particular model was limited production for their 15th anniversary with slightly green cast denim, yellow patch, painted yellow donut buttons. Cherry on top is that I picked these up for a steal on eBay.

Warehouse 700(J) - I didn't understand Warehouse when I first got into denim - full cuts with no fancy adornments (arcs, tabs, flashy coloured selvage, collaborations, etc.). Now I realize this is the very reason why I like them. No frills - just superb construction, legendary denim, and meticulous attention to detail. After wearing slim fits for the past few years, it's great to put these on when it's 30C outside.

Eternal 811 - Seems to be a popular entry on many lists, and for good reason. Only pair that I own that was actually purchased in Japan. Fortunately, the pair I tracked down came with a red tab. Other than that, no frills. Just epic denim, a classic fit, a great leather patch, and top notch construction (not sure what was the deal with the BiG contest pairs, which seemed to have subpar construction). Actually I am in possession of two pairs of these, although the second has been worn and lacks the red tab.

Burgus Plus Lot 780 - Unlike the rest of the jeans on this list, these were a mystery to me when I got them - no real examples of wear on these, other than the pre-distressed pair that Hinoya sold. Nothing too extravagant here, but I'm a sucker for arcs and red tabs. Purple selvage. ~18oz denim, which is surprisingly wearable in the heat and very durable. Higher waist than I was used to, but now I can't wear anything with a low rise. 2 years on these, and now they are my shit-kicking jeans. Love every day I get to wear these jeans. In case you haven't seen the evo, check the link in the sig.

Edited December 19, 2012 by PeterParker

[Flash]

Nice list , love your burgus and i wouldnt mind seeing some evo pics of your fullcounts

Edited December 19, 2012 by Flash

[PeterParker]

Sadly no evo on those. The FC's are still unworn and I probably won't be getting around to wearing them any time soon. They still need a proper hem on a Union Special before I soak and wear.

I'm pretty much monogamous with my denim and the Warehouse are my current go-to. Been flirting a bit with my SExSC06, but despite the lighter weight, slack woven denim, they are not as comfortable in the heat as the Warehouse because of their slim fit.

I think to really explore the beauty of these denim, one must commit at least a year of regular wear. I guess that's the crux of this hobby of ours - we are rewarded for our patience and persistence. I reckon most of us have enough denim to keep us occupied for the next 5-10 years.

[Aries]

Samurai 710 blue shadow - VX denim, Jin buttons and pocketbags, electric blue gulls on the backpockets, 710 cut, close to the perfect jean.

The Strike Gold 1105 - Gorgeous denim that softens dramatically over the first few weeks of wear, great cut, gold selvage is the icing on the cake. A jean for all seasons.

Pure Blue Japan 007 - Great cut, slubby denim, lightweight but substantial, indigo-on-indigo fading, beautiful.

Sugarcane Hawaii - Is there a more unique denim on the market? Got my Dad a pair and they single-handedly converted him to raw denim.

I know this last one isn't a jean, but I'd like to extend my favourite 5 to favourite 5 denim products:

Mister Freedom Drover Blouse (NOS denim version) - The perfect denim coat (not jacket) for all seasons. Corozo wooden buttons, horsehide leather pockets and cuff straps. Slightly eccentric yet not ostentatious.

[everyinchofgod]

5. Honourable Mention goes to Nudie SSDS; unpopular round these parts i know, my first raw denim. The perfect cut for me, I always feel good when I wear them, which is sparingly these days. I usually fly in these for luck.

These were my first pair of raw denim as well, and I do agree it's a great cut, the fit is stellar. And being Japanese selvage denim, it's probably the best denim Nudie ever used. Doesn't measure up to Samurai or IH, but it's not bad.

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[givemefive]

Top 5 by category so far (Been buying since 2007)

 

SlimStraight Fit:

Skull 5010 Black, no fading possible.

 

Japanese Repro Construction:

Eternal 811, really deep tones, authentic repro details and nice texture. Sized down a literal whole size and did some crazy shrinking to deal with the hip flare.  An amazing fit at the moment on my brother but no longer fit me Would definitely buy again.

 

Best 501 fit:

Newest Levi's 501 STF 33x36, this fit fucking rocks.  As a slim 6'3" dude the 12" rise and slimmer cut are perfect for a straight jean. It's such a crap shoot with Japanese repros. Either the rise is too fucking low or the cut is too full w/ hipflare.  I really don't like branding on my clothes so I tore off the pocket embroidery and the patch with a stitch cutter. Roy's KS1001 is an almost identical pattern.  I really loved the KS1001 and the details but I bought too small of sized and was scared of ripping open the crotch at 6 months on a $350 jean.

 

Most Thoroughly Faded:

APC New Standard

 

Next Likely Purchase:

Samarai 710 or Left Field Greaser.  I want a slim, high quality, attention to detail jean with a 11.5"+ rise.

Edited June 2, 2014 by givemefive

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 20, 2015 by hoggreaser

[altoclefchris]

Top 5 by category so far (Been buying since 2007)

 

SlimStraight Fit:

Skull 5010 Black, no fading possible.

 

Japanese Repro Construction:

Eternal 811, really deep tones, authentic repro details and nice texture. Sized down a literal whole size and did some crazy shrinking to deal with the hip flare.  An amazing fit at the moment on my brother but no longer fit me Would definitely buy again.

 

Best 501 fit:

Newest Levi's 501 STF 33x36, this fit fucking rocks.  As a slim 6'3" dude the 12" rise and slimmer cut are perfect for a straight jean. It's such a crap shoot with Japanese repros. Either the rise is too fucking low or the cut is too full w/ hipflare.  I really don't like branding on my clothes so I tore off the pocket embroidery and the patch with a stitch cutter. Roy's KS1001 is an almost identical pattern.  I really loved the KS1001 and the details but I bought too small of sized and was scared of ripping open the crotch at 6 months on a $350 jean.

 

Most Thoroughly Faded:

APC New Standard

 

Next Likely Purchase:

Samarai 710 or Left Field Greaser.  I want a slim, high quality, attention to detail jean with a 11.5"+ rise.

 

greeeeeeeeeaserrrrrrrrrrr

 

while I can't speak for the Samurai, I'm no sure I can ever be persuaded to wear anything other than greasers because the cut is so good. I am also slim 6'3" dude

[Mr-Bielby]

Mine in no particular order. These are from the ones I've worn, it may change once I get into my unworn pairs.

1) Studio D'Artisan 003 - My first pair of Japanese denims, I love the cut and without doubt the softest denim I've ever worn.

2) Denime 1951 - Love the thick feel of this denim, cut is comfortable (forgive me though I tapered). My travelling pair of jeans

3) Denime 66XX (New Owners) - Great cut, substantial feeling material and fast faders.

4) Resolute 710 - Love the smooth denim on these, they fade just how I like jeans to fade

5) APC NS - Strange choice, but my first raw denims and the ones that I think have faded the best. Long gone but not forgotten

[HAZARDkid]

fullcount 1108

fullcount 1108xx

evisu lot2000 no.1

denime 66xx

samurai jin

[pierrot_bzh]

Not enough time spent in all of my pairs so here is my top 3 so far:

 1) Sams S5000VX 21oz: just love the denim texture, the cut is perfect (not too baggy and not slim, perfectly straight) and they fade so nicely... Traveled a lot in those too so maybe also an emotional value in those as well!

2) Denime 66XX (New ones): A slimmer cut than the Sams, but not slim either. Their fading potential seems to be great (and fast). Really wanna see those ones in few months.

3) Sugarcane Okinawa: kind in love with them! The denim is so unique, love its color, the cut is relaxed and comfy, the patch is amazing,... All in all a great all around pair of jeans.

 

Could also have put the Left Field Greasers 23oz as I like the cut, denim is impressive, love the details (such as the bandana pocket bags...) but I didn't spend much time in those so still waiting for evo on those!

 

Next ones on the want list: Warehouse and Resolute 710!

[ColdStorage]

Great thread.

Makes me want to go swimming in the past and see what other old Sufu threads might be out there waiting for me.

 

No huge surprises here... just 5 pairs from my current collection I would hang on to if I had to sell down to 5. I did this quick cause otherwise i'd overthink it...

 

1) 45rpm Jomon: I bought a pair of these at full retail which made me almost scared to wear them and as a result they are basically my dress jeans. But, I was lucky enough to pick up another pair in my size on eBay for about $100 (probably because i'm in the unique position of being able to make a 28"inseam work) and since I got a good deal on em I have been putting em through the ringer. I wear them to work, I wear them when im gardening, and I wash them as needed (once or twice a month). The denim just gets softer in hand and deeper in color with every passing day. The cut is so classic. Im a bit bummed about some sap that wont come out of the knee but it's been fun to really wear such a rare pair so hard.

 

2) ONI Awa Shoai: Sadly, I've outgrown these before I could put any real wear on em but I keep them around as an expensive motivator to get me back to the gym. I still squeeze into em for special events where I can suffer a tight waist for a few hours. To me, these are the last word in denim with idiosyncratic character. The Selfedge/Drybones collab comes really close, but when it comes down to it, nothing looks like the Awa shoai. 

 

3) Samurai 710XX (Standard 19oz): My first non-LVC selvage purchase, so a sentimental pick but I do really love the profile of the 710 cut and the character of the 19oz denim. This pair dates back to my "don't wash for as long as possible" lifestyle (I think I went almost a year until the first wash), and as a result this pair is more contrasty than anything I am wearing these days. Has some nice marbling, great whiskers, great combs.

 

4) Roy KS1001: Probably the most controversial on my list to have such a new pick, but I honestly can't stop wearing these. Start with all the wonderful attention to detail that Roy affords every project, but goes over the top because the cut is exactly what I never knew I needed. The high rise is perfect since I am big in the seat and it has just the right amount of taper for me. I bet it would be too much taper if I had long legs but with my 28" inseam these things get right where I want em at the opening. The denim is soft and even, it reminds me a bit of my Warehouse 1001XX.

 

5) LVC 501XX 1947: My old trusty LVC. They aren't coveted Valencia production or anything special, just picked em up at the Union Square store back in 2011 and wore the hell out of em for the last 3 years. Love the cut, love the stubborn cone denim, love the vintage fade. I know there is stuff to criticize about the handling of LVC, but at the end of the day these are still a classic. Out of rotation until I can get em into SESF for some crotch repair, and boy do I miss em.

 

PS: Honorable mentions to my WW2 Fullcounts which got bumped by LVC. They should be on this list, but I just couldn't make room for em.