The CONTEXT CLOTHING Thread

[Pandemonium]

Holy shit. Great work Sam, Ryan, KMW, et al; those look fantastic. Same specs as the 1980's? They make me want to reconsider black jeans. I take it that they'll fade like the PBJ-007 or similarly warp-and-weft-dyed jeans, right?

On a different note, will you be reordering the Atelier La Durance Prescott Jacket? I still want that thing BAD, but can't yet justify throwing down that much jack for it. I'm worried you'll sell out before I make up my mind.

no, they won't fade.

the warp and weft are both black.

[truestorytravis]

no, they won't fade.

the warp and weft are both black.

I don't think the fact that both the warp and weft are black determines whether or not they'll fade. It would depend more on whether the threads are dyed to the core or if the core is left undyed. The reason that PBJ-007s fade to white is because the core of the threads are not dyed.

It's possible that the dye used on these KMW's does not have the same fading properties as indigo dyes and is more tightly bound to the threads. This might result in less or no fading. Is that what you meant Pandemonium?

[m1sterko]

hey i was wondering if you guys will restock imperials.

[Akre]

m1sterko - I'm pretty sure we do. Mid/Late February. I'll double check with Sam. We've been getting tons of calls and emails about them.

Everyone - Context x KMW 1980 Dry Black Selvage is now available for purchase! New Nudie Jeans are also available.

[m1sterko]

damnnn guess i'll have to wait till then haha

tahnks for the fast reply!

[togecrazy]

do you guys will restock the ALD prescott selvage?

actually my size is out of stock...

[Guest ManOfSteel555]

the real question is, when can we expect to see a restock of the atelier ladurance saddle belt in black or brown???

[sam113]

We're working on an ALD order right now.

Just waiting to see what new items they are coming up with.

[BlueOctoberFan]

I can't wait to see what's coming as well... Love it!

[lowrider]

Sam,

Sent you an email but not sure if it made it through. Here are my questions for the 1980 Blackies:

1. I've got the 1950 AWA in a 29x32 and it's big in the waist, should I get the 28x32 in the 1980? I know they're a different cut hence my question.

2. Are these dyed to the core or is the core still white?

3. Do you have specific measurements yet? I'd love to know the details of the 28x32.

4. Are these sanforized or will they shrink?

5. One wash or raw?

Looking forward to hearing from you and please save me a pair.

[sam113]

^^^

1. The 1980 is a slimmer cut then the 1950 AWA, and the Black/Blacks fit a touch more slim than the mainline 1980, so I'm thinking 29/32 is your size.

2. The dye used on these is charcoal based rather than sulphur based. We are in the process of contacting the guy who did the dyeing to find out about saturation.

3. 28/32 measurements: Waist 28, Thigh 10.75, Knee 7.5, Hem 7.5 Rise 9.5, Inseam 32.

4. They are Sanforized, so shrink will be minimal.

5. Raw and as rigid a fabric as I've come across. these things are stiff.

Response to these has been awesome.

Thanks to all who got a pair- we hope you enjoy them as much as we do.

Feel free to hit me up with any other questions.

[theetruscan]

What are the measurements of the 34 and 36? Thanks much.

[docnbhd]

What are the measurements of the 34 and 36? Thanks much.

Second this...

[sam113]

^^^

Tagged 34

Waist 34, Thigh 12, Knee 8.75, Hem 8.75, Rise 10.5, Inseam 34

Tagged 36

Waist 36, Thigh 12.5, Knee 9.25, Hem 9.25, Rise 11, Inseam, 34

[sexualharrasmentpanda]

any restock on the dry coated conny jackets?

[sam113]

No, sorry.

We tried, but there are none to be had.

[kenthenoob]

sale anytime soon

[sm2s]

sale anytime soon

better not i jsut paid for second day shipping on the new kmws

[ryandenim]

Hey guys, I have some additional information from Joe from KMW about the nature of the dye used in the production of our Black KMW. We've had lots of questions about how this garment will fade as well as whether the charcoal dye is a dye or a pigment. Hopefully Joe's response will clarify. Joe's responses are posted in all caps.

I don't think the fact that both the warp and weft are black determines whether or not they'll fade. It would depend more on whether the threads are dyed to the core or if the core is left undyed. The reason that PBJ-007s fade to white is because the core of the threads are not dyed.

"TRUE AND ACCURATE. ALTHOUGH I WOULD NOT USE THE WORD "FADE". RATHER WITH THE PGJ YOU ARE WEARING THROUGH TO THE UNDYED CORE OF THE YARN. OUR YARN IS CHEESE DYED AND I WOULD THINK PBJ'S WOULD HAVE TO BE JET DYED. IF YOU WANT ME TO GO INTO THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CHEESE DYING AND JET DYING LET ME KNOW...IT WOULD TAKE A BIT OF WRITING."

It's possible that the dye used on these KMW's does not have the same fading properties as indigo dyes and is more tightly bound to the threads. This might result in less or no fading. Is that what you meant Pandemonium?

"I THINK THIS GUY IS THEORETICALLY RIGHT BUT IS USING LANGUAGE THAT IS NOT CONSISTENT WITH TEXTILES SO I'M NOT SURE WHAT HE IS SAYING. HERE ARE OVER SIMPLIFIED FACTS OF DYING:

ALL DYE HAS PIGMENT. PIGMENT IS SIMPLY THE COLORANT. WITHOUT PIGMENT YOU HAVE NO COLOR. NOW, HOW THAT PIGMENT IS ADHERED TO THE FIBER IS WHERE THE DIFFERENCE COMES IN. LETS CONFINE THE CONVERSATION TO COTTON. MOST COTTON IS REACTIVE DYED. MEANING THAT THE PIGMENT CARRIES A CHEMICAL CHARGE THAT FINDS ITS OPPOSITE CHARGE ALONG THE YARN. THE OPPOSITE CHARGE IS CALLED A DYE SITE. WHEN HEAT AND PRESSURE IS APPLIED THE DYE SITE OPENS UP AND ALLOWS THE PIGMENT TO FIND ITS CHARGE. WHEN THE HEAT AND PRESSURE ARE REMOVED THE CARBONS AND HYDROGEN GO BACK TO THE ORIGINAL FORM CLOSING THE DYE SITE. VERY SATRUATED COLORS, LIKE INDIGO, ARE VERY LARGE MOLECULES. SO IT IS PHYSICALLY HARDER TO MAKE THE BOND STICK AS THE PIGMENT CAN'T FIT IN THE DYE SITE. I'D NEED TO DRAW PICTURES OF CARBONS AND HYDROGEN TO HAVE THIS MAKE SENSE. THERE ARE MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF REACTIVE DYES (SULFUR OR ACID AS EXAMPLE). DIFFERENT DYE TYPES ARE USED DEPENDING UPON MANY FACTORS SUCH AS THE TYPE OF MACHINE THE DYER HAS AND THE PRICE THEY WANT TO ACHIEVE. SULFUR DYES ARE CHEAP AND ARE NOT VERY FAST. MANY BLACK DYES ARE SULFUR DYES BECAUSE BLACK IS THE MOST EXPENSIVE COMMON DYE COLOR. WITH THE RIGHT TECHNIQUE BLACK SULFUR DUES CAN BE FINE.

THERE ARE PIGMENT DYES (CONFUSING THAT THE WORD IS THE SAME) PIGMENT DYES ARE NOT REACTIVE DYES. IT IS A PURELY PHYSICAL BOND AS OPPOSED TO A CHEMICAL BOND. I'M SURE YOU KNOW WHAT PIGMENT DYES T-SHIRTS LOOK LIKE COMPARED TO REGULAR T-SHIRTS."

[ryandenim]

Cheese-dyeing

In the field of yarn dyeing, for instance, hank dyeing has been performed by forming yarns into hanks, hanging the hank yarns on a rod of a hank dyeing machine, and flowing a dye liquor through the hank yarns from the inside toward the outside thereof while revolving the hank yarns, whereby the dye liquor comes in even contact with the yarns and an even dyeing is attained. However, this method requires time-consuming laborious work in hanking, hank reeling and yarn connecting. Moreover, the dyeing process cannot be automatized, necessitating laborious work and is performed under poor working conditions. Because of the reasons above, cheese dyeing is currently superseding the hank dyeing.

When cheese dyeing is carried out, it has been the practice that as shown in the accompanying FIGS. 2a and 2b, yarns to be dyed are wound upon bobbins for dyeing to make parallel cheeses or cone cheeses (11) and they are piled on a spindle (12) one upon another while interposing a spacer (13) between each of the bobbins. Here, it is required to wind up the yarns softly and evenly in order that the resulting cheeses may be brought into even contact with a dye liquor.

However, shoulder parts of the cheeses where yarns are turned back or portions of the cheeses on which a tension due to winding up of the yarns concentrates have caused unevenness in winding density, which has resulted in uneven dyeing. As a consequence, in order to eliminate the drawbacks, efforts have been made to attain evenness in winding density as far as possible by, for example, levelling off the shoulder parts or performing soft winding by means of a to-and-fro motion or feed rollers.

Nevertheless it has not been possible to obviate unevenness in winding density, and consequently, it has been extremely difficult to pursue even dyeing characteristics, since a dye liquor flows smoothly through soft portions of the cheeses, but is difficult to flow through high-density portions of the cheeses.

[ryandenim]

Academi Relaxed Fit just in at Context. $80 a pair! We'll have them available on the site with measurements listed in a few days. Here is a preview of the two styles for your enjoyment.

14oz Dry Indigo Detail

14oz Dry Indigo Fit

15.5oz Dry Grey Selvage Detail

15.5oz Dry Grey Selvage Fit

The indigo really rubs off easily on the Dry Indigo. The Dry Grey Fabric has an awesome heft and a streaky quality. Amazing at this price no question.

[weirdnjfan1]

I am so getting the grey color in a 29 or 28 when the are up.

[ggatsby]

hmmm these look like a good beater pair

any slim models coming out?

[ryandenim]

they're selling fast in store.

call the store or email us @ [email protected] to order. You can PM Sam113 as well.

[ryandenim]

hmmm these look like a good beater pair

any slim models coming out?

Yeah, we're getting the straight fit, which fits a lot like the Somet straight. They're releasing a slim fit as well. I think Joey Formal will have that fit. He has a thread going on Academi as well.

[m1sterko]

do you have to order by phone for context?

or are youg uys gonna have it for online order also?

[sam113]

The Academi's will be added to the webstore in the next day or two.

You can order by phone or email until then.

608 250 0113

[email protected]

[destructodisk]

sam, any word on a KMW Rocker restock?

[ron]

I noticed on the website that the Academi grey flame selvedge has resin coated weft thread. I presume from that statement that the warp thread is not resin coated. Is there any info on what effect this may have on fading or shrinkage?

[Guest ManOfSteel555]

the rocker is such a sweet cut, i wish the black KMW were in the rocker cut.