The New Classic Jeans

[mizanation]

Japanese denim companies revolutionized denim by remaking long-lost classic American jeans. However, now, I think some original offerings from these companies can be considered new "classics". What I mean by "classic" is not what is best, or most expensive. "Classic" means that this particular jean had a huge impact on us denimheads. "Classic" means that this jean created a new standard (sorry about the pun).

I was wondering what Japanese and Euro jeans us denimheads consider classic.

Here's my short, incomplete list:

Sugarcane 1947

Studio D'Artisan SD-103

Eternal 811

45 RPM Sorahiko

Warehouse 1000XX

Pure Blue Japan XX-005

APC New Standard

Nudie Regular Ralf

Interested in seeing your lists...

.

[artificialsky]

no samurais?

[fndmybetterhalf]

not much of a list but i gotta throw in Dior 19cm

[jonsan]

Skull 5010

[GoodHustle]

I like your list Miz, but I would also throw in Imperial Dukes, and Samurai S5000BK. In my opinion, the S5000BK is the most popular black jean on the market and is also the most popular Samurai cut/style.

[coleslawyum]

I'm gonna have to add these jeans:

Fullcount 1108

Samurai 5000vx

Flat Head 5005

Oni Blue

Denime XX Type

The Real McCoy 613

Stormy Blue 421

There are probably more, but off the top of the head, I can't think of them right now.

[Tenchi]

Technically Imperial is Australian...

How bout Evisus?...

[coleslawyum]

Technically Imperial is Australian...

How bout Evisus?...

Yeah, I think Evisu's should be up there.

I vote for the 2000 No.1 Special.

[LeicaLad]

Well, as per usual, Miz posts a thoughtful question requesting a bit of reflection and what you get is mostly what he specifically asked not to be posted.

It would seem, Miz, that your question has three parts. First is the question of “classic†in terms of cut and construction. The second regards either “impact†and “influence†or standing up to a certain test of time(-lessness). And, finally, what you’re getting in spite of your request: everyone’s list of their own favorites or “what’s hotâ€.

LA Guy has maintained a worthy thread over on SF concerning a flexible “Top Ten†list of best jeans. It is clear from your post (to the few who seem to have read it) that you’re not seeking to repeat that post, but rather to focus on the first two questions above.

So, to the quick reaction to add every Japanese name and model one might think you like, it would be nice to come back to a representational list of those specific jeans (whether still being made or not) that we can say have either been iconic in stature or have been pivotal in the denim renaissance.

Therefore, it might be better to ask for thoughtful postings, along the lines of LA Guys own Top Ten list, where a bit of rationale is given for each selection, but focused on the criteria of “classic design†or “impactâ€, comparing other possible options but underscoring selection.

I, for one, would suggest a Lee repro needs to be in there. The Sugar Cane 45 is a leading candidate. That said, while truly classic, none of the Lee repros have seemingly had the signature impact of the Levi repros.

Personally, I have too few examples to make my own list and am posted waaaay tooo far away to even have a chance to look. BUT, once again, Miz has posted a most worthy question. I hope the denim mavens here will rise to the question with thoughtful answers.

[Dick Danger]

I'm not going to bother with stuff I don't own. In my closet, or on my floor.

1000XX

SC 47s

ALD Classic Dungaree

Iron Heart 634-S

Fullcount 1108

S0500XX

S710XX

5000BK

RRDS

It's easier for me to pick out things that I don't like. I won't bore anyone with a nittypicky list of each one. The 1000XX are it for me, I will always have a worn pair and a fresh pair ready to go. I really like the 47s and the 500XXs, but I haven't bought reserve pairs of those yet, and probably won't.

Classic? That's tough.

1000XX

SC 47s

5000BK-If they weren't black they probably wouldn't have made it.

[red]

I'm not going to bother with stuff I don't own. In my closet, or on my floor.

1000XX

SC 47s

ALD Classic Dungaree

Iron Heart 634-S

Fullcount 1108

S0500XX

S710XX

5000BK

RRDS

It's easier for me to pick out things that I don't like. I won't bore anyone with a nittypicky list of each one. The 1000XX are it for me, I will always have a worn pair and a fresh pair ready to go. I really like the 47s and the 500XXs, but I haven't bought reserve pairs of those yet, and probably won't.

Classic? That's tough.

1000XX

SC 47s

5000BK-If they weren't black they probably wouldn't have made it.

nice collection youve got there.

[tweeds]

classic jeans - miz you always ask the difficult questions

i think the APC new standard must be there - in the old days it was the only jean that anyone knew. also, the cut and aesthetic of the new standard is responsible for alot - hedi slimane has said that he was inspired by jean touitou's work stretching back to the brand's founding in 1987.

nudie RRDS - the pocket designs are themselves an institution. along with the APC new standard this was probably the introduction to the world of dry denim for many of us, 1.5 years ago. today of course the same is not true...hype and money have come into the picture and japanese denim is much more accessible.

sugar cane SC41947 - i think this was probably the pair of jeans that introduced most of us to the 1947 levi's cut, being the closest thing to a 47 repro, closer than even the LVC version of it.

i'm not sure about the SDA SD-103 - imo this was really just a phase of discovery, but certainly it had a crucial place in spreading the word about the "piggy" to the board. i remember ringring posted about it once, and it disappeared for a bit; when it resurfaced it spawned pages and pages of discussion. more than sugar cane, SDA probably contributed to a good deal of interest about dyestuffs, construction, etc. the SC 47 was classic for its cut, but SDA was the brand to start discussions about LHT/RHT, natural/pure indigo, chainstitching...

the eternal 811 - if for nothing else, then for denim-gallery-heavy's holy grail.

i think evisus have to go in there somewhere, since they were talked about way before any of the classics above. of course, they were also the "original" repro jean.

i'm not sure about the XX-005, 1000XX, sorahiko, and the rest - they seem to me to have been on the sidelines. 45rpm was always the mecca for denimheads (the older members talked about it, that i know) but it never got as huge an interest as the others.

[blm14]

True religion, since you guys hate them so much.

[viv1984viv]

APC new standard - even though I dont really like the fabric the cut is great.

PBJ 005 - I mention them because I love them so much I want them in black as well! Despite owning the s5000bk's!

[beefcake]

classic jeans - miz you always ask the difficult questions

i think the APC new standard must be there - in the old days it was the only jean that anyone knew. also, the cut and aesthetic of the new standard is responsible for alot - hedi slimane has said that he was inspired by jean touitou's work stretching back to the brand's founding in 1987.

nudie RRDS - the pocket designs are themselves an institution. along with the APC new standard this was probably the introduction to the world of dry denim for many of us, 1.5 years ago. today of course the same is not true...hype and money have come into the picture and japanese denim is much more accessible.

sugar cane SC41947 - i think this was probably the pair of jeans that introduced most of us to the 1947 levi's cut, being the closest thing to a 47 repro, closer than even the LVC version of it.

i'm not sure about the SDA SD-103 - imo this was really just a phase of discovery, but certainly it had a crucial place in spreading the word about the "piggy" to the board. i remember ringring posted about it once, and it disappeared for a bit; when it resurfaced it spawned pages and pages of discussion. more than sugar cane, SDA probably contributed to a good deal of interest about dyestuffs, construction, etc. the SC 47 was classic for its cut, but SDA was the brand to start discussions about LHT/RHT, natural/pure indigo, chainstitching...

the eternal 811 - if for nothing else, then for denim-gallery-heavy's holy grail.

i think evisus have to go in there somewhere, since they were talked about way before any of the classics above. of course, they were also the "original" repro jean.

i'm not sure about the XX-005, 1000XX, sorahiko, and the rest - they seem to me to have been on the sidelines. 45rpm was always the mecca for denimheads (the older members talked about it, that i know) but it never got as huge an interest as the others.

agreed 100%.

[mizanation]

leicalad - thanks for clarifying what i meant. i too wanted to put a lee repro, but i couldn't decide on a definitive model.

good hustle - yeah, i purposely left out a samurai cuz i couldn't pick one. the closest thing to a classic is the 5000BK or the 5000VX. problem is, the 5000BK is a limited edition and not a production model. the 5000VX just might not be popular enough to be a classic. i don't think the imperial dukes have had enough impact, even though they are a great jean.

tweedles - your list is great. i also agree with your omissions after reading your reasoning, except, for the XX-005. i think the XX-005 can be considered a classic jean now, even though it's relatively new compared to the other styles. it's impact has been huge and there's not really a jean like it out there (slim, very slubby, low -rise).

also, as fndmybetterhalf said, i would add the diors. however, i wouldn't discriminate between the different leg openings on the diors, though.

[cheapmuthafukr]

in a year, when the contest is over and heavy gallery guy is finished with his, i feel the s0500xx will be on that list.

[mizanation]

if they make more of them, cmf...

[cheapmuthafukr]

thats right... they are not a production model.

[LeicaLad]

They ain't foolish. There's a new batch of S5000BKs out in a couple weeks. With the rave reviews of the contest model, there's no reason they wouldn't do, at least, another run. They are responsive (unlike certain other makers we can name...).

[Roulette]

Maybe...

Full Count 1101

Samurai 5000vx

Flat Head 5005

Sugarcane 1947

Studio DArtisan SD-103

Eternal 811

45 RPM Sorahiko

Dior 19cm

APC New Standard

[mizanation]

roulette, why the full count 1101 and the flat head 50005?

[tweeds]

they never took off here, but i think Helmut Langs are also one of the more classic jeans.

[mizanation]

it's interesting to see that many of the most iconic jeans are european. i often forget about the great offerings from outside of japan.

APC NS, RRDS, Dior, Helmut Lang...

[denimdestroyedmylife]

jr calis

nudie rrds

eternal 811

sd103

45rpm sorahiko

sugar cane 47

dior 19cm

apc new standards

reasoning?

those popped out of my head without having to push

most talked about on the boards

everyone seems to have at least one of these in their rotation

seems like these are common ground

and they are good for those sizing questions a la "i'm a 30 in rrds, what size _____ should i get?"

[mizanation]

nice reasoning ddml. i forgot about the jr calis.

i guess you could call this a denim hall of fame in a sense...

[denimdestroyedmylife]

it's more like the denim canon

or required acquisition

or superdenim 101

my "hall of fame" list would be very different

[mizanation]

true, true. hall of fame... that should be interesting...

[LeicaLad]

it's more like the denim canon

or required acquisition

or superdenim 101

my "hall of fame" list would be very different

Oooh! VERY nice distinctions. We should work with this.

I'm curious that Helmut Lang pops up, but 5EP hasn't. Jus' curious. Any reason?

[coleslawyum]

Still think that Evisu and Denime should be mentioned here. Two of the original repro companies that made a lot of stuff before it got popular. Like it or not Evisu has influenced denim subculture.