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waywt? saved my life


sycamore no more

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vexed generation

studio prive

helmut lang

got damn. just won't stop

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Sayword - Most people somewhat connected to the industry will get the hookup, but the industry really relies on the aspirational middle level customer to pay the bills. I know it's tough to do, but paying retail for things is the backbone of our economy. It supports the brand, as lines can't establish a presence in as many markets as they need, and it supports a ton of people from sales clerks to managers to buyers, etc. When we all start looking for "deals", we force ourselves to accept lower quality goods and service... The "Walmartification" of our society. You probably know all this allready, just a subject I feel really strong about...

so fuckin true. i hardly ever shop in the supermarket because it doesn't directly support designers. same goes for topshop, h&m and forever 21. disposible fashion is whats killing our market. and marketers. fuckin hate the two with a passion.

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^^^

i don't really understand the dynamics of the fashion industry, but is a BoO shirt or a pair of raf astros really worth their retail price tag? I understand paying more for quality, innovation and style, but several hundred dollars for pair of plasticky shoes seems a little excessive. If you guys disagree, I'd love to know why.

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well for me, i justify band of outsiders pricing with how easy and frequently i turn to their shirts. my charcoal oxford has been worn well over 30-60 times and i've owned it for less than 3 monthes. the cut is exquisite and the sleeve length is perfect, for a short guy like me it's impossible to find good shirts and BoO just does it right man.

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^^^

i don't really understand the dynamics of the fashion industry, but is a BoO shirt or a pair of raf astros really worth their retail price tag? I understand paying more for quality, innovation and style, but several hundred dollars for pair of plasticky shoes seems a little excessive. If you guys disagree, I'd love to know why.

I think there was a thread on this already, but if not, another one is definitely warranted. Pricepoints are set in a cuople ways, first, by volume. The more quantity of something is produced, the lower the price tends to be. A brand can outsource production to a 3rd world country and pay pennies or less for something to be "manufactured". Certain lines, like Raf, don't produce in the quantities that could make low pricepoints possible, so each piece is going to be more expensive. Factor in materials and where the item is produced (Japan vs Vietnam), and it's easy to see how prices can escalate. Second, some designers will price their goods at a level to maintain some sense of exclusivity, as those products won't be available to all consumers. I guess I'm more astounded that a shirt can be designed, materials can be sourced, the garment can be assembled, packaged, and shipped from the other end of the Earth, loaded on a truck and driven halfway across the US, and retailed at a profit, for under $15 (Forever 21), as opposed to a Boo shirt for a couple hundred bucks. Sorry to be a bit long-winded, but it's a good conversation to have.

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I assume that BoO is nothing compared to labels such as raf or ann etc, so that was a bad pt. to have made. I agree with you about that scott.

Thanks for the response Orion. The first point you raise is that the quantity and location in which the location is produced raises the price, which I totally agree. Having been on sufu for a little while seems to have warped my perception that ann d. and helmut lang etc. are popular brands, when that may just be the case in smaller niches (sufu being one).

However I think it's a little messed up how certain labels can price items at a higher level just in order to raise exclusivity; it'd be pretentious to have an unreasonably high price tag just so those in the upper class can have an escalated sense of elitism. I guess if people are willing to pay, then there's no reason to not increase the price, but then it seems like more of a money making venture than an artistic venture for those particular brands which I can't agree with.

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Bjork - To some extent, I absolutely agree, A great example is Coach. Made in China out of the shittiest materials, but propped up in pricepoint to "compete" with LV, Gucci, etc. In reality, aside from Hermes, pretty much all leathergoods manufacturers are a joke nowdays... It's one of those "it is what it is" type of situations though. People will buy what they feel is of value to them, same with wine, cars, comic books... What I always feel is bizarre though, is how much of our disposable income we spend on clothing and food by percentage has dropped, and we still want it all for cheaper. But then again, we don't really value or even appreciate quality, craftsmanship, or longetivity in a garment anymore (general society)...

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However I think it's a little messed up how certain labels can price items at a higher level just in order to raise exclusivity; it'd be pretentious to have an unreasonably high price tag just so those in the upper class can have an escalated sense of elitism. I guess if people are willing to pay, then there's no reason to not increase the price, but then it seems like more of a money making venture than an artistic venture for those particular brands which I can't agree with.

the markup isn't all for shits and giggles. you have to factor in the number of staff the house employs. i've said this before but EVERYONE takes a cut before it reaches your hands. from the fabric manufacture, the design team, the production team, any advertising cost, the sales staff etc. are all accounted for. now for the most part this applies to the design houses that you mentioned. the exclusivity bullshit pertains to luxury brands like LV. but in the case of LVMH LV is the dominate bread winner for the company.

but yes Orion start a thread. i'm on the design side but i always love a good conversation about the business aspect of fAsHIoUn

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I've always wondered, do you get urban foxes in the US?

Not the way you guys do. I saw a video posted on youtube of foxes doing their mating calls/ritual (but not actually mating) in the middle of a traffic circle in what looked to be a fairly urban setting in the UK.

I frequently see foxes near my place, as well as raccoons, and even some deer, but I live about 20-30 minutes outside Washington, DC, on a lake.

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