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I have a pair of XXX-28 Ai - core dyed jeans and have recently bought a pair of D-1554 natural indigo- surface dyed jeans from PSA (which I am presently waiting for). The XXX-28 have the red circle and the D-1554 have the blue circle above the 5th pocket. I thought one color represented natural indigo dye and the other synthetic indigo dye yet both of these jeans are natural indigo dyed. Anyone shed some light on this?

edit - possibly it is because Ai is hand dyed and even though natural indigo, the D-1554 is machine dyed?

Edited by lance
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I have a pair of XXX-28 Ai - core dyed jeans and have recently bought a pair of D-1554 natural indigo- surface dyed jeans from PSA (which I am presently waiting for). The XXX-28 have the red circle and the D-1554 have the blue circle above the 5th pocket. I thought one color represented natural indigo dye and the other synthetic indigo dye yet both of these jeans are natural indigo dyed. Anyone shed some light on this?

edit - possibly it is because Ai is hand dyed and even though natural indigo, the D-1554 is machine dyed?

It must be that. Rope-dyed vs. hank-dyed.

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hmm, that's what I was thinking too commodorewheeler, but looking at the D-1507 Limited Edition Ai (hank) dyed jeans, they have the blue circle too. Circle color does not seem to mean anything about hank vs rope or natural vs synthetic indigo.

Edited by lance
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man, the D-1554 natural indigo rope dyed jeans are beautiful! Super smooth Zim cotton and very dark, beautiful color natural indigo dye. Contrast color stitching and silver buttons look great aganst the indigo - heavy stitching along inseam and tripple chain stitching.

Edited by lance
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hmm, that's what I was thinking too commodorewheeler, but looking at the D-1507 Limited Edition Ai (hank) dyed jeans, they have the blue circle too. Circle color does not seem to mean anything about hank vs rope or natural vs synthetic indigo.

The D1507 is rope-dyed, not hank-dyed. It uses the same denim as the SP-013. AFAIK, the only SDAs that are hank-dyed are the XXX models.

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ok, thanks man, I thought Ai dyed meant hank/hand dyed yarn with natural indigo vs rope dyed/machine dyed yarns twisted together into a rope even if with natural indigo. BIG lists the d-1507 as hand dyed to the core with natural indigo and they sure are priced like it. Somewhat confused to say the least! :(

Edited by lance
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Anybody have experience the SDA leather?

Saw this on BiG curious why its 60USD cheaper than most other comparable belts

http://blueingreenso...emart&Itemid=28

From the photos it seems the burnish work on the edges ain't as good as the Kawatako/KC's x Samurai stuff. The stitching ain't my favourite either, a bit dense whilst running down vertically - would probably have excepted an old school horizontal stitch given SDA's usual excellence in the small details.

Edited by mikecch
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ok, thanks man, I thought Ai dyed meant hank/hand dyed yarn with natural indigo vs rope dyed/machine dyed yarns twisted together into a rope even if with natural indigo. BIG lists the d-1507 as hand dyed to the core with natural indigo and they sure are priced like it. Somewhat confused to say the least! :(

To my understanding, the D1507 uses the same denim as the SP-013, and back when the SP-013 was available for sale, I read on SDA's website that the warp threads were rope-dyed and dipped 30 times for that denim. The website also mentioned that the cores of the warp threads on that model are white.

Also, if you've seen the evo pics of the SP-013 earlier in this thread, that denim fades like a rope-dyed denim, not a hank-dyed denim.

Edited by commodorewheeler
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ok, thanks man, I thought Ai dyed meant hank/hand dyed yarn with natural indigo vs rope dyed/machine dyed yarns twisted together into a rope even if with natural indigo. BIG lists the d-1507 as hand dyed to the core with natural indigo and they sure are priced like it. Somewhat confused to say the least! :(

My 2 cents:

Fabrics and garments can be colored and dyed in various ways:

- yarn colored (man-made fibers will have added dye stuff added as part of the spinning process)

- yarn dyed (finished/semi-finished yarns will be dipped in dye stuff baths)

- fabric dyed (finished/semi-finished fabrics will be dipped in dye stuff baths)

- printed fabrics...

- garment dyed (finished, whole garments will be dipped in dye stuff baths)

- printed garment (finished, whole garments will printed - mostly partial prints...)

All of the above methods but yarn colored can be executed manually, machine supported or fully automated through machines.

AI foremost stands for the usage of natural indigo as dye stuff (vs. synthetic, pure indigo) and small scale, artisanal production/manufacturing. In many cultures the dye process is (or can be, if desired,) still fully manual. Modern indigo masters will operated fully machine supported.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I'm enjoying wearing my SD-101s in rotation with my Flat Heads (I only wear jeans part-time anyway due to work dress code) but they are slow faders. I'd like to see a 2-year SDA contest with both the 101 and 103 models - the stubbornness should reveal some fantastic jeans at the end of that period, as evidenced by the few, really aged pairs that have been posted here.

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At Inazuma this past NOV, I spotted this fierce looking chick in the green cardigan. From the looks of her SDA bag, it seems that she just scored more Studio swagger. Gosh, cute Japanese girls wearing heavyweight 100% cotton badass jeans... boioioioing!

DSC06724.JPG?psid=1

DSC06726.JPG?psid=1

Just FYI to any Canadians... SDA stuff can now be purchased from Tate + Yoko in Montreal.

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Hey,

I need some advice from experienced Studio d'artisan wearers, hopefully you can help me out. I recently bought me a pair of 601-99, already discussed above. Usually I am a 35, but since there is no 35 for this type I ordered a 34. I cannot manage to close the upper button on this one. I am pretty sure a 36 will be too loose after wearing them in. My question is what to do with this pair. My priority is wearing them, since the denim is beautiful and I love the quality. I am not looking for an extra ordinary washing, authentic fades or something, I just want to be able to wear them. So how are the chances of having them fit me or being able to soak them?

It would be great if you have any advice how to make it work, if it is possible.

Cheers

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Hey,

I need some advice from experienced Studio d'artisan wearers, hopefully you can help me out. I recently bought me a pair of 601-99, already discussed above. Usually I am a 35, but since there is no 35 for this type I ordered a 34. I cannot manage to close the upper button on this one. I am pretty sure a 36 will be too loose after wearing them in. My question is what to do with this pair. My priority is wearing them, since the denim is beautiful and I love the quality. I am not looking for an extra ordinary washing, authentic fades or something, I just want to be able to wear them. So how are the chances of having them fit me or being able to soak them?

It would be great if you have any advice how to make it work, if it is possible.

Cheers

i would say you'll have to move on even though the denim is really nice on it. from what you describe, there is absolutely no way that the 34 will fit at all. even if you dont wash them forever, they already don't fit right from the start. sorry to say it but you will probably have to return them and go for the next best option in your size. point is you have to be able to fit into them to keep them. i learnt this the hard way too... good luck.

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Hey,

I need some advice from experienced Studio d'artisan wearers, hopefully you can help me out. I recently bought me a pair of 601-99, already discussed above. Usually I am a 35, but since there is no 35 for this type I ordered a 34. I cannot manage to close the upper button on this one. I am pretty sure a 36 will be too loose after wearing them in.

I hate to be the one to tell you, but you're a size 36. When you can't even button a raw size 34, you need at least another 2" in the waist.

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just received the SDA D-1507 from PSA. Great service and communication and fast shipping to USA - incredible jeans, thanks, Naoki. My respect for SDA continues to grow -17 oz Ai dyed to the core denim - wonderful! I have soaked them twice and still, there is starch all over the place. Not just sticky but slimey. Is this "business as usual" for raw SDA (not the case with my XXX-28 though) and how do I get rid of the strarch - repeated soaks or toss them in the machine with a little Sugar Cane soap? thanks

Edited by lance
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Hey,

thanks for the fast and honest answers. I went through this topic and read about another one having the button problem solved by wearing them in. My evisu and edwin did stretch a lot, but I guess, it depends on the brand. This goes straight to the market then :)

Anybody interested in a brand new Studio d'artisan sz. 34 model 601-99 ;) 200,-$//150,- €?

please pm me if so.

Cheers

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just received the SDA D-1507 from PSA. Great service and communication and fast shipping to USA - incredible jeans, thanks, Naoki. My respect for SDA continues to grow -17 oz Ai dyed to the core denim - wonderful! I have soaked them twice and still, there is starch all over the place. Not just sticky but slimey. Is this "business as usual" for raw SDA (not the case with my XXX-28 though) and how do I get rid of the strarch - repeated soaks or toss them in the machine with a little Sugar Cane soap? thanks

I experienced this with the SP-013, which, to my knowledge, uses the same denim as the D1507. For me, it took 2 hot soaks and a machine wash (no detergent) to get rid of it.

AFAIK, the D1507/SP-013 denim is not dyed to the core, I'm pretty sure I read on SDA's website at some point in the past that the warp threads have a white core. Also, if you look at Surrealizm's SP-013 evo pics scattered throughout this thread, you'll see that they fade like a denim with white warp thread cores, not so much like a hank-dyed indigo-to-the-core denim.

Edited by commodorewheeler
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