Denime XX - A journey over 3 decades

[beautiful_FrEaK]

The Origin of DENIME

The brand name DENIME originates from Serge de Nimes, a type of fabric produced in the ancient textile center of Nimes, France, in the 15th century. The name “de Nimes” was anglicized to “Denim” in American English.

DENIME was established in 1988. The brand specializes in remaking rare masterpieces from the 1950s to 1970s that are now difficult to obtain, with the concept of faithfully recreating the atmosphere of that era. Every aspect of the production process—from materials, sewing, accessories, to styling—is meticulously pursued to achieve this vision.

 

DENIME's Commitment

Over 150 years have passed since jeans were first created in San Francisco during the Gold Rush, and jeans themselves have undergone historical transformations to reach their current form. DENIME develops products with a contemporary twist, grounded in the historical context, while staying true to the basic elements of jeans and aiming to faithfully capture the spirit of the era.

 Using threads dyed in the traditional manner, DENIME reproduces every step of the process—from weaving, sewing, and starching to the individual components—to create its jeans and denim jackets.

The distinctive color fading of DENIME's iconic XX type is achieved by repeatedly dyeing with chemically synthesized indigo, which adds depth to the dye layer and uses a concentrated dye.

After washing, each time the garment is worn, it develops the characteristic vertical fading and twisting known as “old-style proof,” along with the unique texture created by the side seams.

In this way, DENIME strives to remain as faithful as possible to the past while incorporating subtle, meticulous craftsmanship.

 

 

 

Denim (History of Denim)

Denim originates from “Serge de Nimes,” an ancient textile center in Nimes, France, in the 15th century. When “de Nimes” was brought to America, it evolved into “Denim” due to American pronunciation.

(The brand name “Denime” also derives from this origin.)

The “indigo synthetic dye,” also known as “indigoid dye,” made indigo dyeing, which was once very niche, a common practice.

This synthetic dye was first reported by German scientist A. von Bayer in 1878. Its chemical structure was determined in 1883, and mass production began.

(Structurally, it is identical to the components used in natural indigo dye, but it is pure, with no impurities like those found in natural indigo.)

 

The standard XX type was created by thoroughly researching everything from the origin of the cotton, color, thread count, dyeing process, and the number of warp and weft threads in the yarn, all the way back to the 1950s deadstock denim.

The first XX type produced between 1988 and 1989 was limited to just 144 pieces. It took six months from creating the prototype to starting mass production. Production was finally approved after confirming the fading condition. Denime's jeans and jackets truly shine six months after purchase.

 

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Orizzonti era

 

Size 34x36

Raw measurements
Waist: 35"
Front rise: 12.25"
Back rise: 16"
Thighs: 13.125"
Knee: 9.75"
Leg opening: 8.75"
Inseam: 35"

The constructional thread is mainly orange throughout the jeans. Yellow thread is used on the inseam and the coin pocket.

 

Back view
Slanted belt loop, typical detail for Denime XX

 

Coin Pocket

 

Back pocket
Wider and shorter than Shins. Triangle stitch is missing on my pair.

 

Leather patch

 

Fly construction
Typical for Orrizonti is the double stitching at the bottom of the fly

 

V-stitch
Ending at the button. Waistband is not completey sewn with chainstitch

 

Top button
Shiny material
 

 

Belt loops
Slightly raised, orange thread

 

Hidden rivet
Discoloured on my pair. Black bartack is used.

 

Selvedge
The selvedge thread is rather thin. Change of the twill direction is there.

 

Front pockets
No selvedge (although I think I saw pairs with selvedge cloth). Printed with 492x41

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Shins era

 

Size 34x36

One-wash measurements
Waist: 34"
Front rise: 12"
Back rise: 15.75"
Thighs: 13"
Knee: 9.75"
Leg opening: 8.75"
Inseam: 36"

The constructional thread is mainly orange throughout the jeans. But instead of yellow thread only for the inseam and the coin pocket, the fly is also constructed using yellow thread.

 

Back view
Slanted belt loop, typical detail for Denime XX

 

Coin pocket

 

Back pocket
Smaller but longer than Orizzonti. Triangle stitch is there

 

Leather patch

 

Fly construction
No double stitching anymore, yellow thread is used as well

 

V-stitch
Is carried out steeper, ending before the button. Waistband sewn completely with chainstitch and even with a run-off.

 

Top button
Same shiny material like Orizzonti. My pair is a bit aged...

 

Belt loops
Slightly raised, orange thread. Very similar to Orizzonti, bartack looks a bit thicker and does not go over the edge

 

Hidden rivet
The bartack is a very dark grey. Not black. Construction looks cleaner

 

Selvedge
The selvedge thread is quite fat and prominent. Change of twill direction is there

 

Front pockets
Selvedge. Printed with 492x41.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Wego era (Original Line)

 

Size 36x34

Raw measurements
Waist: 35.8"
Front rise: 12.25"
Back rise: 16"
Thighs: 14"
Knee: 9.75"
Leg opening: 8.75"
Inseam: 33.75"

The constructional thread is mainly orange throughout the jeans. Yellow thread is used on the inseam and the coin pocket.

 

Back view
Slanted belt loop, typical detail for Denime XX

 

Coin pocket

 

Back pocket
The smallest back pockets of all models and this pair is a W36...Triangle stitch is there

 

Leather patch
Not attached like the other pairs

 

Fly construction
No double stitching anymore. Just orange thread used.

 

V-stitch
More obtuse angle, ending at the button. Waistband sewn completely with chainstitch tucked in

 

Top button
Same shiny material like Orizzonti.

 

Belt loops
Slightly raised, orange thread. Smalelr diestance between the stitching. Thinner bartack

 

Hidden rivet
The bartack is a very dark grey. Not black. Construction looks cleaner

 

Selvedge
The selvedge thread is quite fat and prominent, like Shins. Change of twill direction is there. Most narrow selvedge line of all models.

 

Front pockets
Selvedge. Printed with the Original Line stamp.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Denime made by Warehouse

Stock picture

 

Size 34x32

Raw measurements
Waist: 35"
Front rise: 13.5"
Back rise: 17.75"
Thighs: 13.25"
Knee: 10"
Leg opening: 9"
Inseam: 35.25"

The constructional thread is mainly orange throughout the jeans. Yellow thread is used on the inseam and the coin pocket.

 

Back view
Slanted belt loop, typical detail for Denime XX The back pockets are closer together (as the hips are straighter on these)

 

Coin Pocket
Widest coin pocket of all types and different sewing method applied (no triangles)

 

Back pocket
Biggest back pocket of all types, The red tab is smaller. Triangle stitch is there

 

Leather patch
Different and thicker leather is used, typical Denime way of stitching the leath patch is applied

 

Fly construction
Unlike older Denime are sewn at the bottom, here the stitching is almost parallel.

 

V-stitch
Quite thick chainstitch, the V-stitch is steep and ends before the button.

 

Top button
The buttons are more dull,the background of the lettering is plain
 

 

Belt loops
Slightly raised, orange thread. Similar to Orizzonti and Shins (bartack closer to Wego)

 

Hidden rivet
Hidden rivet is less rounded/dome shaped. Like an all rivets it reads WH instead of YH. Light grey bartack is used.

 

Selvedge
The selvedge thread is paler (maybe caused by washing). The selvedhe line is wider than Wego but still on the narrow side. Change of the twill direction is there.

 

Front pockets
No selvedge line but could be selvede. No print or stamp

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Placeholder

[reallypeacedoff]

Nice @beautiful_FrEaK!

I'm gonna say it...Orizzonti era was the best, those measurements are cleannnnnn! The jean just looks perfect to me.

Side note: Shins BR is missing a number...

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Thanks! I will update everything with a lot more pictures and highlight differences. Just need more time

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Updated with info of the front pocket bags. I might add a comparison of the 66XX as well.

[buler]

@beautiful_FrEaK Great work!  Do you have date ranges for the eras?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Yep, I do. Gonna put them in the first post as well, when I am ready.

1988 - 2004 Orizzonti
2005 - 2009 Shins
2010 - 2022 Wego (Original Line in 2018/2019)
2023 - xxx   Warehouse

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Let me preface the following 3 comparison-posts with the general statement "in terms of details the 3 eras of 66XX do not differ very much".
I will add additional pics over the next weeks.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Orizzonti era

 

 

Size 36x34

Raw measurements
Waist: 36"
Front rise: 11.5"
Back rise: 15.25"
Thighs: 13.375"
Knee: 9.5"
Leg opening: 8.375"
Inseam: 36.25"

 

Selvedge pocket bags

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Shins era

 

 

Size 36x34

Washed measurements
Waist: 35"
Front rise: 11"
Back rise: 15"
Thighs: 12.9"
Knee: 9"
Leg opening: 8"
Inseam: 35"

 

Shape and overall design of the top block pretty close to Orizzonti

Smallest leather patch of the eras

Selvedge pocket bags

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Original Line

 

Size 36x34

One-wash measurements
Waist: 36"
Front rise: 11.5"
Back rise: 15.5"
Thighs: 13"
Knee: 9.125"
Leg opening: 8.25"
Inseam: 31.25" (hemmed)

 

Biggest coin pocket of the eras, a shorter fly, thicker chainstitch at the wasitband

Biggest and brightest leather patch

Selvedge pocket bags (but thinner, more space between the orange thread)

[Maynard Friedman]

Bumping this thread. Also, what is the weight of the denim used for the XX models of the Orizzonti and Shins eras (possibly Wego too) - is it 14.5oz?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

From my understanding, yes. 14.5oz was what I used to saw. So like many of the first repro brands (SdA, Warehouse, Evisu).

With the 30th Anniversay edition by Wego, I first saw the 15.9oz mentioned (after wash). 14.5oz raw, 15.9oz when washed would make sense though with a approx. 10% shrink.