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  • 3 weeks later...

X-Post from the Self Edge thread..

We'd like to introduce you to Mister Freedom...

The brainchild of a Frenchman living in Los Angeles by the name of Christophe Loiron, Mister Freedom is the vision of vintage gone deep. The attention to detail is beyond anything we've ever seen by any manufacturer before, and the passion put into every garment is noticed even by pedestrian fashonistas. The line is designed by Mr. Loiron and produced by Toyo Enterprises of Sugar Cane and Buzz Rickson fame.

This is what we'd hope every line would do, but we've found no other person that can come this close to the madness contained within these beautiful pieces.

The concept of the first season is 1930's/1940's Merchant Navy custom tailor-made denim workwear. We'll let the pieces speak for themselves from here out..

The complete line (jeans, shirts, coat, and a bag) is now available in limited quantities in-store and in our online store.

We've done something a bit special for this photoshoot, sending the line to Amsterdam to be shot and modeled by Cotton Duck, then each main photograph was digitally processed by Ordo. Photos by CD, Processing by Ordo, Boots by Wild Child.

Full specs, info, photos:







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That photo of the jacket from the MF site was what made me want the jacket so bad, but already the large is gone. What size were you wearing for the Chambray and jacket for interest sake Cotton?

damn, the large is gone? i knew i should have grabbed it last saturday. kiya, anymore re-ups???

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Hmm, you take mediums in some tops, I find that surprising since I believe you are quite abit taller then me at 6'5, that has got to be wrong though. You found that the arm length then for all the items was quite generous? Always a concern for me as I have some pretty unporportioned arms. Any ways I was a few hours too late on the jacket I guess.

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Hmm, you take mediums in some tops, I find that surprising since I believe you are quite abit taller then me at 6'5, that has got to be wrong though. You found that the arm length then for all the items was quite generous? Always a concern for me as I have some pretty unporportioned arms. Any ways I was a few hours too late on the jacket I guess.

I am indeed quite tall and if I take an M it's mostly in tshirt.

And I was pleasantly surprised by the sizing on these items. The denim shirts sleeve length is what I'd consider perfect for me, the chambray could be a tad longer, but nothing I couldn't live with.

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  • 2 weeks later...

...to all of you for your support and feedback.

(Sorry about my sporadic interventions, i have just gotten back form severals trips in a row.)

I was VERY impressed by all the work done on the photo shoot by Cotton Duck (the session was masterfully shot, modeled and edited, many thanks to Cotton Duck and Ordo again).

Kiya @ Selfedge has been VERY kind with his introduction of MF® to his loyal followers, and i am proud and honored that this MFSC collection is now part of his inventory, next to the big players. ( www.selfedge.com , Kiya's website is so well and tastefully done that is is a pleasure to navigate). Can't wait to visit the Selfedge store one of these days.

On a technical note, here is a little recap of the concept of the collection that was never publicized:

It is the story of a Merchant Navy sailor in the 30s/40s who cruised the South Pacific Ocean. At each Naval Base he was anchoring, he went to see the local Naval Base Tailor and had custom made garments. He'd bring his own fabric, collected during his travels, and his own specs. Being the Merchant Navy and not the US Navy, restrictions on personal effects were looser and he was able to get away with looking sharp even in work dungarees. His custom clothes mixed naval aesthetics, work practicality and period accurate detailing.

For example, his Deck Coat pattern was inspired by an original 1920's US Navy wool Pea-Jacket, but he preferred to have it made in 14.5 oz indigo denim, more suitable for his cruise weather requirements. The lining was collected during a previous tour of Europe, an original mattress cover striped ticking twill.

The utility chambray shirt had an inside passport secret pocket, a chest original slanted pocket he designed for easier access and indigo fabric facing from Japan. The chambray fabric came from an early 1900's work apron from France. (it was re-woven exactly like the sample by Toyo).

The denim Utility shirt was the osmosis of a 1930's CPO wool shirt/a uniform shirt/ and original pocketing. Some detailing influences came from British shirting makers tailoring (curved bottom flap and tucked button to keep shirt closed at all times). The metal snaps were 'borrowed' from US Army web gear production.

The denim seafaring bag original design included leather handles (from the chin straps of a USAF type B-3 flight jacket), an original horsehide leather pocket (Our sailor had a USAF aviator buddy on board and traded some tobacco for a pocket of his type A-2 leather flight jacket).

The denim Utility trousers are an absolute original design. The 'mysterious' red tape comes from a European tailoring period detail. Bottom hems were often done in that manner, to avoid the bulky aspects of fabric fold. The local tailor used available bias tape (restrictions due to troubled times), found red to match the coin zip hip pocket. You'd only roll up your pants on cleaning deck duty, to keep your breeches dry, so the colour was not supposed to show. (the bell shape of original Navy trousers actually has its origin in the 'keeping your pants dry' when mopping the deck. Comes inspection time, you'd better have ya breeches down!).

The original "denim rivets" were used/thought of because no metal rivets were available at the Tailor Shop. The waist hook is a common detail in European early work pants.

The lighter 11oz indigo denim fabric was used for comfort, again as climate requirement. These dungarees need to be really worked on to get their real 'beauty'. Once worn and sun faded, they get to another level.

The chino pants are of a 1940s US Army influence (therefore using metal US Army tin buttons). The lower rise, striped cotton ticking lining, and navy blue cotton stitching were our sailor personal custom specs.


This script, historically plausible, was the backbone for all the original designs. Garments that never existed, but could have. Not replicas, nor 'vintage inspired with a twist', that i let other design studios tap into.

I hope this answers a few questions. Gotta run for now.

Thank you again for your support.



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Some more details info wouldnt hurt, whats the story with, say, the different denim patches on the jeans. Why just on the left leg?

Bobo, the 7163's are all done in the same denim, no material mixing this time.

As to why? I think we can only guess and Christophe seems to leave it up to our imagination.

Perhaps our sailor would wear through his left knee faster than the right and wanted another layer of denim to prevent it on this pair? Who knows...

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