Denime

[beautiful_FrEaK]

After two failed delivieres yesterday, the Lot. 220A arived today. Hopefully I can post some real life measurements later today as a reference and share my impression of the jeans.
Meanwhile regarding that LHT-part of the Denime selvedge: all my Denime jeans feature this. Also the ones from the original Line. Also my Resolute jeans. I checked my FC and they don't have this so it really seems to be a Hayashi-san design choice.

 

@pomata Did you manage to buy a pair?

Edited March 8, 2023 by beautiful_FrEaK

[pomata]

@beautiful_FrEaK yes they should arrive soon 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Measurements as follows.

Size 34

 

Raw

Waist: 35"

Front rise: 13.5"

Back rise: 17.75"

Thighs: 13.25"

Knee: 10"

Leg opening: 9"

Inseam: 35.25"

 

A much higher rise than the old XX models. The denim feels very nice and the construction as well. @julian-wolf probably too slim for your thunder Thighs.

 

Edit: For reference the measurements of an old XX pair.

 

Size 34

 

Raw

Waist: 35"

Front rise: 12.25"

Back rise: 16"

Thighs: 13.125"

Knee: 9,75"

Leg opening: 8,75"

Inseam: 35"

Edited March 9, 2023 by beautiful_FrEaK

[JohnM]

^ Wow, with that front rise and my ordering an even bigger size (36), I won’t need to wear a shirt. Just pull em up high ;-)

[Topnotcher]

New Denime after one day of wearing.

Bought tts,fit is nice ,a little roomy in my (small) butt area.

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I think the quite long back rise doesnÄt help with that either  Fit looks good and the denim still crunchy

[Talan]

My FW 43 have about the same back rise. At first it was quite uncomfortable, but now I'm used to it, fits well. In fact, I'm wearing them now, writing from the street.

Edited March 9, 2023 by Talan

[Talan]

duplicated

Edited March 10, 2023 by Talan

[indigoeagle]

While most Japanese shops show measurements for the products they sell, which is very helpful, for some reason the measurements for back rise are quite rare.

[indigoeagle]

1 hour ago, Topnotcher said:

New Denime after one day of wearing.

Bought tts,fit is nice ,a little roomy in my (small) butt area.

 

Is the denim that royal blueish in reality or just on the pics?
In the descriptions of the "typical" Denime denim I had read, that due to numereous dyeing it's quite dark and gives strong contrast to the white core. Perhaps I misunderstood.

[indigoeagle]

Mine also arrived just now.

 

34 Raw measurements (BiG):
Waist- 46cm (18.1 inches)
Front rise- 33.5cm (13.2)
Back rise- 44.5cm (17.5)
Hem- 22.5cm (8.86)

The pre wash measurements are quite similar to my FullCount 1101XX in 34, the front rise of the Denime is ca. one inch more.

But I didn't get that little booklet. I thought, it was included.
Any pics of the booklet?

Edited March 9, 2023 by indigoeagle

[pomata]

which booklet?

[indigoeagle]

Now, that you're asking, I can't remember/find, where I had seen it.
But one shop's page of the jeans there was a pic of it together with the jeans.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I received the booklet with my order. I can take pics of it later today or tomorrow when I find the time.
It has a short background and the planned models. I think the background is sthe same that you can find on most shop's descriptions of the new models. I am pretty sure Celluloid copied the text as well.

[pomata]

@beautiful_FrEaK would you mind sharing your impressions on the new fabric?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Ale, I hope I can "examine" the new jeans more this evening and compare with a deadstock Orizzonti 66XX. From what I checked yesterday, it looks very good.
I hope I can take some good pics as well but probably only under artificial lighting. 
 

[Topnotcher]

58 minutes ago, indigoeagle said:

Is the denim that royal blueish in reality or just on the pics?
In the descriptions of the "typical" Denime denim I had read, that due to numereous dyeing it's quite dark and gives strong contrast to the white core. Perhaps I misunderstood.

 

[pomata]

@Topnotcher will you soak/wash or wear raw?

[Topnotcher]

26 minutes ago, pomata said:

@Topnotcher will you soak/wash or wear raw?

 Did Wash  it water only carefully in the machine at 40 degrees.

 

 

[Maynard Friedman]

Sorry to interrupt the new Denime models chat but does anyone know the key differences between the older 66 and 66XX models in terms of cut, details, denim, etc?

[indigoeagle]

8 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Sorry to interrupt the new Denime models chat but does anyone know the key differences between the older 66 and 66XX models in terms of cut, details, denim, etc?

Original Line

66 TYPE  The motif is 60s vintage denim.
The silhouette is regular.
The fabric is made of uneven yarn and is made on an old-fashioned loom.
By adjusting the weaving method, this fabric has a rough feel.

13.0oz / 100% cotton / button-fly /
paper patch / made in Japan

non wash
32inch - ウエスト(W)-90cm　ヒップ(H)-112cm　渡り(T)-33cm　前股上(F)-27cm　レングス(L)-88cm　裾幅(O)-21.5cm

66XX The motif is 60s vintage denim.
The silhouette is REGULAR TAPERED.
The fabric is made of uneven yarn and is made on an old-fashioned loom.
This fabric has unevenness by loosely weaving warp threads and increasing the number of weft threads.

14.7 oz / 100% cotton / button-fly /
goat leather patch / made in Japan

32inch - ウエスト(W)-90.5cm　ヒップ(H)-108cm　渡り(T)-33.5cm　前股上(F)-25.5cm　レングス(L)-87m
 

Edited March 9, 2023 by indigoeagle

[beautiful_FrEaK]

The new denim is indeed a touch lighter in colour, also more weft shows through. Similar level of irregularities. 

 

Edit: sure, small variations in between batches can't be judged

Edited March 9, 2023 by beautiful_FrEaK

[indigoeagle]

The Orizzonti don't have that little triangular stitching in the corner above the back pockets?

What do the rivets say for the Orizzonti?
For the new ones they say "Denime WH".

How would you compare the patch?
The new leather one is nice and soft, I find.

The Orizzonti also seem to sport some more lemon threads.
For the WH Denime one I could only find it one the coin pocket.

Edited March 9, 2023 by indigoeagle

[beautiful_FrEaK]

The Orizzonti above is a 66XX so different details to begin with. I just used it as a denim comparison.

Original rivets say HY or YH for Yoshiyuki Hayashi. The new ones clearly for Wäre House.

The leather patch is totally Warehouse leather. Old Denime were thinner and more rigid 

Edited March 9, 2023 by beautiful_FrEaK

[beautiful_FrEaK]

4 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Sorry to interrupt the new Denime models chat but does anyone know the key differences between the older 66 and 66XX models in terms of cut, details, denim, etc?

Hej Martin.

So  the 66 model uses a lighter denim (14oz), has a paper patch, rounded rivets, only orange stitching, a higher rise, wider thighs and general a bit more room.

The 66XX uses the heavier XX denim (15oz), leather patch, more colour variation on the stitching, sharp rivets and a lower rise and more fitted top block.

 

And here are the pics from the booklet 

 

[pomata]

any info on when the new jackets will be released?

[JohnM]

Denime XX Lot 220A came today.  Raw measurements, for those interested:

Waist      37"

FR         13.5"

BR         18"

Thigh     13.875"

Knee     10.375"

LO           9.5"

Inseam   35.5"

[mk3radial]

I missed the launch as I was not very sure about the lenght for my long legs...

Now I know (thanks to @beautiful_FrEaK) the L32 is enough for me.

If anyone here knows where a W36 L32 is still in stock please contact me.

[indigoeagle]

Seems to be sold out at most stores.
Mushmans still has 31 to 34, unfortunately no 36.

http://shop.mushmans.com/?pid=173367240

[beautiful_FrEaK]

^ Some pairs are floating around on Yahoo Auction already. 

So here are my size 34 after a gentle machine wash which didn't shrink them much. So will probably give them another wash soon.

Thoughts:
While the rise is higher than I usually prefer it still feels good. We have to see how I like the fit once the denim relaxes (and probably starts to sag more).
The coin pocket is huge...it has the size of other brands front pockets (nearly). The red tab is smaller on these than on old Denime jeans. The fabric of the pocket bags feels a bit flimsy and is more like regular Warehouse fabric. So no selvedge to be seen like on old Denime pocket bags. The denim still has a nice crunch after the wash but overall feels a bit less beefy than old XX denim (but that isn't too bad in my book).

Noticeable colour difference between front and back panel of the leg. 

Edited March 13, 2023 by beautiful_FrEaK