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Even worse than I expected it to be. The outerwear lame basics will sell but I'm not sure the Tribe of Slimane really exists anymore.

They've been buying Balenciaga, Balmain and Givenchy with Louboutin sneakers but they can come back, looking dorkier than ever.

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I don't know any threads that get as hot as the ones where Slimane is on the table. When I saw the collection, I thought of VOTC, in the boots and the rough plaid. I though of In the Morning, in the capes, the long, girly scarves, the oversized sweaters, and the cuts of the jackets. I saw one of those duffle coats in These Grey Days, and the Haring Bone one in Navigate. There were a few Balmain rip-offs, and a few inspirations in the leather trousers. But I don't think it's a bad thing. Every designer does that. Besides, isn't this exactly what DH super-fans have been pining for since 2007?

In response to the comment above, while I can only speak for myself, I would not be caught dead in the look being referenced. It couldn't be further from the old DH aesthetic. Perhaps I am a purist, but leather tights, skirts, XL nose rings, ugly-ass dog sweaters, and shoes attacked with a bedazzler — likely topped by a hairdo only Johnny Rotten could approve of — were not fitting replacements for the wearable, understated cool that was Dior Homme.

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KvA has been doing a wonderful job for almost five years now in my opinion. His first few collections may have been a little iffy because he tried to stay true to Hedi's Dior, but he soon found his own voice and he sticks with it. It almost seems ironic that Hedi's successor was one of the first to move away from the all skinny everything-trend. And look what almost everyone in Paris has been doing now.

I'd just like to know how his version of Dior Homme is doing compared to Hedi's financially. But even in Hedi's days it looked like most of the cash came from the basic jeans and the shirts and not the pieces shown in the actual collections. If you look at Dior Homme stockists this probably hasn't changed, because most of the buys are always quite disappointing.

Edited by Einzelkind

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Real talk: Balmain menswear F/W13 looks damn sex. Want to rub the Obi all over my face.

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^ This

I recall a fashion blog saying that one can shop at any hipster mall kiosk for most of the fits showcased. Kind of disagree with that basic criticism. I think its a pretty nice collection, and that's about it

with that said, i'm pretty sure the fashion industry has its target on the "rich Asian kids" market

I know Balmain's head designer admits it for his F/W collection, lol

Edited by PRC.

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I'm getting those shoes. They look pretty good, cant decide if I wanna get the black ones or the brown suede ones.

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KvA has been doing a wonderful job for almost five years now in my opinion. His first few collections may have been a little iffy because he tried to stay true to Hedi's Dior, but he soon found his own voice and he sticks with it.

Agree here. KVA has done an amazing job moving the Dior label in a new direction. I really like where he has taken the brand.

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I personally think the most important criticism will come from the streets and if the young people will be wearing it.

I can't honestly see Tokyo guys wearing this collection.

It feels too self-referencial and iterative of Dior 2003-2007 in a time where the 90s street aesthetic is making a strong comeback.

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I think they will, just because it's Hedi's.

The most important criticism will come from Y! Japan auctions, and how many would actually bid/buy the pieces IMO.

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interesting post from someone who was in the buyer room salon

http://charlieporter...ms/stories/8363

trainer rollerskates? what

"Last night, Saint Laurent held a brief re-see at the Grand Palais, where it sells its collections to stores after the show.

The collection was on the rails, in order of look.

And then beyond it, all the stuff that will go instore.

There were no photos allowed, but I was given permission to nick two pencils.

There’s so much jolliness in the non-catwalk stuff that’ll be in store.

I wish I could take photos of it for you.

The thick knit sweaters are all done with raglan sleeves, so they have a sense of movement about them.

The duffel coats are so good, with SAINT LAURENT branded small on each toggle.

The tailoring is neat and exact.

The T-shirts look amazing.

The bags are amazing, especially a big clean leather tote.

The jewellery is amazing.

The trainers look AMAZING – white, with a flash of colour.

And there are some trainer rollerskates.

Trainer. Rollerskates."

Edited by Vampyrvargfesten

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like it or not, the guy has a seriously hip sense of style. he obviously will succeed with new venture because he is truly a forward thinking person and he has never taken his style too seriously (a recipe for success in my mind). i dont think he is having a mid life crisis or any crisis for that matter. the brand has a strong image and it is an image that the industry is lacking without him. he has a sense of humor. he knows what he wants, and i think he's here to stay. that said he has some pieces that are going to sell like hot cakes imo. the boots, the jackets, the sneakers, the jeans, the t shirts, the suits. thats more than i can say for a lot of the menswear collections that dropped this season.

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and if it were just selling because of his name behind the clothes, then that says it all imo. people want hedi. its simple. he's good for fashion.

Edited by quedateluna

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animated .gif of my favorite look...

KRMKG5b.gif

love the unexpected pairing of the pendleton ombre-shadow plaid shirt, leather moto pants, and golden suede boots

the drape on the coat is perfect... the way it sways ever so slightly side-to-side really does it for me

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need those flannels, leather pants, and chain boots

watch this in full screen HD...

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the drape on the coat is perfect... the way it sways ever so slightly side-to-side really does it for me

every coat does this even the poorly cut ones

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^actually no, the construction and fabric........wait, why am i even explaining this??

Edited by quedateluna

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i want those black and gold jodhpur'd boots so damn much :(

Edited by quedateluna

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^actually no, the construction and fabric........wait, why am i even explaining this??

Explain it to me, I wanna have a good laugh. No offense but draping and movement is about weight and lenght, not quality or anything related. Considering most designers avoid extremely heavy or thin wool and stay within the same range all fucking overcoats do that in pretty much the same way.

Edited by Fuuma

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I personally think the most important criticism will come from the streets and if the young people will be wearing it.

I can't honestly see Tokyo guys wearing this collection.

It feels too self-referencial and iterative of Dior 2003-2007 in a time where the 90s street aesthetic is making a strong comeback.

the scarves will pop up in TUNE October 2013

would've liked to see something less derivative but hey he's just giving people the thing they like most about him (uncomfortable jeans)

Edited by Lab

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my closet is all left with derivative and literal design clothings. stylewise, i got rid of stuff that didn't become a 'classic' to my standards.having said that this collection is very dangerous to my wallet. so many things tempting me now. let's start with the zip leather pants, that would easily be more than 5K im guessing

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my closet is all left with derivative and literal design clothings. stylewise, i got rid of stuff that didn't become a 'classic' to my standards.having said that this collection is very dangerous to my wallet. so many things tempting me now. let's start with the zip leather pants, that would easily be more than 5K im guessing

to put some pricing and "hedi-mania" into perspective...

a sales assistant told me that the gold embroidered jacket is like $62,000...

...and that someone has already pre-ordered one.

i'm curious to see what stores will be buying from this season, considering the debut spring collection has sold fairly well, with certain items selling out by pre-order.... perhaps buyers will take some risks this season

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to put some pricing and "hedi-mania" into perspective...

a sales assistant told me that the gold embroidered jacket is like $62,000...

...and that someone has already pre-ordered one.

well maybe studhomme will b making it too. lulz

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