Show us your leather

[Duke Mantee]

Another variation of the sling bag - this one for @ATWM

[sensy]

Such beautiful work @Duke Mantee  

I wanted to write a little on the bag I made, and this ”pleat fold” in particular, cause it took me a while to figure out how to do. 

It’s there not only because I think it looks cool, but also the Liston locks can be sort of fiddly, so being able to get a finger behind to support the insertion of the lid lock part. 
Anyway, I think this technique is only possible if hand stitched, but I’m not an expert at machine stitching so I could be wrong. To do it, I prickmark the stitch line, one line on each side of the lock. Then I stitch from the bottom up, until the first mark seen in this image:

The mark isn’t super visible, but its just at the top of the lock at the stich line. At that mark, I folded the bag over, and stiched through two layers. I continue until the second mark, where I fold the bag back again, and stitch through 3 layers until I reach the end. The top of the bag is skived to zero to make it easier to stitch the binding. 
I have never seen a guide on how to do this pleat, so I figured I could type one out. Theres probably even a name for it in french or something, I just dont know it. 

[Duke Mantee]

Cheers @sensy

The pleat in your bag is a tricky thing to do … reminds me a bit of the old US postal bags

 

[sensy]

Man, old messenger bags always look so cool. I've made a couple, but nothing I'm particularly happy with. Like there's something about the simple design I can't quite capture and make my own. 

 

Lately I've been making a couple of my cash and card wrap wallets. I'm sort of thinking about making some kind of store where I just put stuff to break even and can continue making whatever I want whenever. Not super hopeful about it working out, but I'm willing to try. 

[Duke Mantee]

I hope it does work 🤞 - I’d imagine those cash/card wraps might be a popular thing

The biggest challenge is ‘handmade’. I’ve said enough about it previously - but mostly I’ve found folk don’t really care about that aspect so beware what you charge, despite what it costs. Just use ‘popular’ tanneries (love me some Badalassi 😂)

[Duke Mantee]

@srudy just keeps asking for stuff - a mini sling:

 

[Duke Mantee]

The slings are actually complicated bags - the standard and smaller sizes both have about 14~16 pieces of leather and a LOT of saddle stitching in relation to their volume 

Stitching is where the time is taken, that’s why you’ll see on commercial products the work is done by machine; or smaller businesses who do want to truly claim hand made but still look for ‘profit’ will look to use a design that has much less sewing (folding/glueing/rivets) and perhaps employ low SPI where sewing is still necessary 

[srudy]

Ha! I do keep asking for things from you @Duke Mantee 😊🙌

I really have never had such nice leather pieces that bring me so much joy until you. Your work is impeccable, the leather you choose is interesting and luxurious. I couldn’t be happier!

[sensy]

This is my latest work, a briefcase/folio. This somehow has less pieces of leather than @Duke Mantee's bag - but with big pieces like this it's easier to have one piece of leather than having to do more long stitch lines. Especially when you're dumb like me and decided to use 2.7mm irons for a bag. 

Learned lots, got better at perlage (setting rivets and making them look not shit) and decided I like French stitching clams. 

[Duke Mantee]

The smaller the stitch the longer the job - lovely work

[spidereye]

Red color

 

 

 

Edited April 5, 2025 by spidereye

[Duke Mantee]

… and the last couple of things to go into the package for @srudy  - a small pouch/bag, which can be worn as a belt or slung over the shoulder, and a mini-trucker wallet which sits neatly inside

 

[cultpop 0217]

I had  noticed the beautiful indigo patina on the rough out side of favorite vintage painted belt before but I was today years old when I realized the buckle is designed to be instantly reversible. 

It seems it simply swings both ways. 

I can wear it either way without swapping the buckle.  

I won't do it often because I don't want to effect the perfect gloss or the paint too much.  

But how cool is that?

[sensy]

My latest project - an actual commission from a customer! 3.38mm stitching, all handmade and my original design (tho obviously inspired by Birkin bags and music cases). 

 

[Duke Mantee]

Congrats on the commission and well done on the job 👍

[chicote]

That's a beautiful design!

[Duke Mantee]

Russian calf as an accessory for the belt I just posted

[Duke Mantee]

Another variation of the mini trucker - this time in harness leather for the shell and crust for the innards, oh and different snaps

 

[sensy]

I finally sat down and made myself a website. Just a few wallets on there now, but I’m in the process of designing some new bags. I’m not charging for my time, just taking the material costs x 3-4. 
 

https://ateliertg.com

[Duke Mantee]

Good luck mate 

[dylanbooth78]

One star card holder in natural chromexcel 

[sensy]

Finished this today. Very fun, but long build. 

[shredwin_206]

new shipjohn chain wallet 

[Cold Summer]

Here's my current wallet/key holder setup.

Flat Head long wallet, key holder, and kangaroo lace wallet rope. I've had the key holder for about four years now after I ordered it direct from Flat Head, and it's seen a lot of action. The wallet was a Mercari pickup, and the rope I got from the same eBay seller who sold me the leather jacket I recently posted in the TFH thread.

This is the third time I've had a Flat Head long wallet and it's easily my favorite. It looked a little dingy when I got it, but I knew it just needed some cleaning and conditioning to look great again. A wipedown, JE Sedgwick beeswax conditioner application, horsehair brushing, and cleaning off the silver parts with some polish did just the job.

Compared to the other TFH wallets I had, this is already my favorite. This one has the best interior layout, with these card slots actually being easy to use, and the zip compartment/lack of pigskin lamination on the card slots cutting down on bulkiness and weight. I really prefer Flat Head's stuffed bridle leather to the cordovan of the long wallet I had a few years ago, and the black accents and concho design really distinguish it as well. I often try to pay with cash now, especially when I'm going to a locally-owned business and that sort of thing, and it's quite easy to fetch bills and coins from a long wallet like this.

I still have not found any wallet ropes or chains I like more than these Flat Head kangaroo lace ones. They're supple and soft, with a nice drape that's superior to the stiff shape of cowhide or horsehide ropes, it's surprising to me that more makers don't make something like this; and I find the six-string box weave very nice and aesthetically pleasing as well. I don't even know if Flat Head still makes these, but I'm sure they could be special ordered. In my case, I like that the level of aging and patina between these three items coordinates this well, and unlike with denim garments I'm just fine with using "pre-loved" leather goods that already have wear and tear.

Edited January 14 by Cold Summer

[l13902733261]

Hermann oak heritage steerhide for a leather jacket project

[MJF9]

1 hour ago, l13902733261 said:

Hermann oak heritage steerhide for a leather jacket project

Interesting... tell us more mate 

[l13902733261]

On 1/31/2026 at 12:51 AM, MJF9 said:

Interesting... tell us more mate 

30s goatskin half belt (pics from Thefedoralounge) as reference. still unsure about the cuffs design, any suggestions from vintage examples? preferably single button since I only got two.

Liner fabric are 40s antique rayon, NOS 30s brass hardware, TWC Lot 801 car coat buttons that I asked for "spare".

[olmecasteve]

I have this goatskin half belt . This one is a 40s Califonian, it doesn’t have the W collar, but it does have the buttoned cuffs.

[sensy]

Horse butt leather bag. 

[knucks]

Heading to Osaka and Tokyo in a few weeks. Actually traveling with my new Red Moon  Didnt seem like I was going to be able to pick those up anywhere in JP (their shop in Tokyo closed in 2024 too) but.. any shops I should put on my radar in Osaka or Tokyo for others?