Steel Feather MiJ - Heavy Oz denim

[Anders Helseth]

More "behind the scenes". Time to introduce one of the key people who are behind the production of my Steel Feather jeans; this time it's the sewing "master", Mrs. Yoshikawa:

(Above: the sewing master of the factory, Mrs. Yoshikawa. She's been in the business for over 30 years!)

Mrs. Yoshikawa, or master as they affectionately call her in the factory's sewing area, has been in the denim game in Kojima for over 30 years. She used to be a kindergarten teacher, but she got headhunted for her sewing talents in the late 70s. In the sewing room she's cleary the authority, and well respected at that. She's very proud of her workers, and her collection of machines (I will show you some of those later).

(Above: here she is doing her thing, setting up one of her machines for a small demonstration for me)

When I asked her what her favorite part about producing my Steel Feather jeans was, she very quickly said: "the heavy oz denim." She followed up by saying that they very rarely have the chance to work with this type of denim, and that she thought of it as a wonderful challenge. Furthermore, she commented on my taste for what she called denim purity, and said she was happy there still were purists like me around. This she said relation to me choosing to work with raw and unsanforized shuttle loom denim, as well as the details I included in my design. As a last comment, she said she found my back pocket design quite curious, and was excited to see the results.

I also asked why she'd chosen to go into the textile industry and denim business, and she plainly said: "because it's alive; denim is alive, and is always changing." To me, that sums it up quite nicely.

[apba1166]

I like her thoughts. Thank you for that. I suppose that goes to the heart of the obsession.

[JayFourEyes]

Really, really cool reading about the people and machines behind these special jeans! As for some other followers the thighs are too slim for me. (At least I think so, will do some more measuring and thinking...)

riktigt fint projekt anders, kommer att följa det med intresse! och som sagt: kanske tar jag mod till mig...

[Anders Helseth]

Really, really cool reading about the people and machines behind these special jeans! As for some other followers the thighs are too slim for me. (At least I think so, will do some more measuring and thinking...)

riktigt fint projekt anders, kommer att följa det med intresse! och som sagt: kanske tar jag mod till mig...

Thanks for your comment! I'll do my best to keep the thread interesting

Om du er i Oslo noen gang, så ta kontakt på forhånd; da kan jeg personlig vise deg et par Steel Feather jeans, no problem.

[Anders Helseth]

As I've been receiving some comments about the "tightness" of the thighs based on the chart, I want to explain a bit more. To use an example, I will take my own pair of s34 Steel Feather jeans.

Pre-wash the thighs measured 12,25", and post-wash they measured 12"; however, after a month or so of wear they've stretched nicely to almost 12,75". That's up to a full inch (!), just through regular wear and walking. It's apparant to me that Mr Mori's unsanforized 21oz denim has quite some moulding and stretching capacity in the areas it's needed the most; which goes exactly with the instructions he gave me for my final patterns. I chose to trust him, since his knowledge of denim is far superior than mine; especially when it comes to his own denim. Myself I had the same worries some of the people have voiced in this thread.

Sadly this means the size chart has limited usefulness, since this type of "x" factor is not easy to show through a chart of raw and unworn measurements. The chart is just an aproximate guide, and can't possibly reflect the final fit of the jeans with the wear you put into them. As I posted earlier:

You'd be surprised how comfortable it really is! Even with my full bottom and full thighs they fit comfortably. In my opinion, the best aspect with unsanforized denim is how it will mould to your body. If it starts out a little tight, it will mould much better. Right now my size 34 feels very comfy, and doesn't feel tight at all. I guess you just have to experience it yourself to know

I hope this can clear up some of the worrying in regards to the thigh measurements. I will also be back with a post on how my friend Rikhard's Steel Feather jeans have stretched with wear; this should be ready early in May.

Kind Regards

Anders Helseth

[Anders Helseth]

I would like to announce that you can now have your jeans hemmed on my Union Special 43200 G at no extra charge when buying a pair of Steel Feather jeans. If you decide you need them hemmed after receiving them, then you only have to cover the return shipping (both ways) and Paypal transfer fee.

Also, I would like to point out that I accept any jeans for hemming alterations.

Edited April 18, 2012 by Surrealizm

[shinobi2000]

Also, I would like to point out that I accept any jeans for hemming alterations.

wow, don't you have enough to do running a denim start-up? :-)

[Anders Helseth]

wow, don't you have enough to do running a denim start-up? :-)

I believe I'll be able to handle it. It's sad to not be able to use my Union Special more, and this would be a great opportunity to do so.

[Cain]

I would like to announce that you can now have your jeans hemmed on my Union Special 43200 G at no extra charge when buying a pair of Steel Feather jeans. If you decide you need them hemmed after receiving them, then you only have to cover the return shipping (both ways) and Paypal transfer fee.

Also, I would like to point out that I accept any jeans for hemming alterations.

In Oslo? drop in services? If so: how much?

[lsinner]

That fit is on point.

[Anders Helseth]

In Oslo? drop in services? If so: how much?

Sent you a PM about this

[Martybear]

These jeans look amazing. I really regret buying my S710s(which arent even getting much wear!), wish I had gotten a pair of these. For sure going to be my next pair!

[Anders Helseth]

It’s time for another post about one of key people of my Steel Feather “behind the scenes†tour. This time it’s the guy who helped me design the actual patterns used in production of my jeans: Mr. Takahashi.

(Above: Mr Takahashi)

Mr. Takahashi has been in the jeans business in Kojima for over 15 years, and has been helping people with the development and grading of their patterns for the better part of that time. Besides finishing and perfecting patterns, he also cuts the fabric for every single sample pair by hand, with a small but extremely sharp blade. This blade, he says, was made by a small family-owned smithy that used to make deadly Samurai katanas in the past.

(Above: in action; Mr Takahashi is quick with his hands)

His main drive for working in the denim industry is his passion for creating things with his hands. When I asked him what part about the making of my Steel Feather jeans he liked the most, he replied: “I really liked the challenge of working with such heavy denim; which is very different from what most Japanese brands do. I also liked the fact that the end product was very classic, and that it was left raw and unwashed; this is the heart of denim for me.â€

[shinobi2000]

This blade, he says, was made by a small family-owned smithy that used to make deadly Samurai katanas in the past. [/i]

how very "Kill Bill"! :-)

[Anders Helseth]

That fit is on point.

Thanks for your comment. Happy to hear you like it

These jeans look amazing. I really regret buying my S710s(which arent even getting much wear!), wish I had gotten a pair of these. For sure going to be my next pair!

Thanks Martybear. When you're ready just send me a PM

[Tyler-m-]

transfering money into my account to pick these up!!

[Anders Helseth]

Heads up: will be offline this week from Wednesday until late Sunday my time. I'll be back to handle everything on Monday next week; sorry for the inconvienience.

Kind Regards

Anders Helseth

Edited April 24, 2012 by Surrealizm

[apba1166]

My pair arrived last week. Finally got around to soaking them today. They were 34s--pre soak measured to 36 w/11 rise. Post soak, 34 with 10.75. I have read about people's thumbs trying to button 21oz raw post-soak, and now know the pain....and I only had to do 1 button! I put them on damp and had no chance. Couldn't hardly get them up my legs let alone zipper them, let alone button them. I thought: this is hopeless. Within 15 minutes, zipped and buttoned. Within an hour--right now--tight but getting comfortable. I like the rise and where the waist sits. The thighs are tight as people have said, but I feel will loosen up fast. I have never had anything this weight, unsanforized, but do have 2 pair of 17 oz from other brands and they both felt this way at first and loosened up plenty, so onward and upward, I am pretty sure these will too. I will post pics soon....meanwhile, let me say they are thick, tough, well-made jeans, feel great, and the details are all very nicely done indeed.

[apba1166]

First full day of wear, and they have gotten pretty comfortable quickly. I really like them. Especially the color, which is very deep

[Anders Helseth]

First full day of wear, and they have gotten pretty comfortable quickly. I really like them. Especially the color, which is very deep

I'm looking forward to seeing some pictures. Happy that you like them!

A tip for anyone who wants an easier time buttoning heavy denim: use a pair of pliers that will fit inside the button hole, and pull the handles apart to stretch it. Do not use excessive force. This works very well while the jeans are wet, and really makes the buttoning much easier.

[Tyler-m-]

Can we expect contrasty fades?

[Anders Helseth]

Can we expect contrasty fades?

This denim holds a lot of indigo, yet it fades at a nice pace. I think it's up to your own personal style of wearing and washing your jeans that will lead them to become contrasty or not. I'm certain that this denim will yield very different results based on who's wearing them. Wearing often and washing rarely should provide you with more contrast, and wearing often and washing often will give you the more "vintage" style of fading.

Been wearing my own pair for almost 2 months now; will post pictures soon.

[Anders Helseth]

Not only did I get to meet true denim making veterans of Kojima, but I also had a great time over at one of the local overdyeing places. This particular one has been in business for over 30 years, and is also another small family-owned business involved in the textile and denim industry of Kojima. It's now run by a lovely Japanese lady, who took over from her father about 15 years ago.

(Above: indigo pits of the small overdyeing facility; these pits have been kept full ever since they got into the overdyeing business over 30 years ago)

This facility specializes in indigo overdyeing, both natural and synthetic; they even have a woad garden in the back, which they harvest for one of their natural indigo pits. Sadly I didn't get to take any pictures of the garden though, but I'll make sure to check it out when I do another trip over.

(Above: me and the manager; she learned everything from her father, who used to run the overdyeing house)

The manager told me they do a lot of overdyeing for brands based in Kojima; some of them quite famous here at SUFU. She also took time to personally teach me how to overdye garments; the main lesson being patience. Below you can see me trying my hand at overdyeing in a pit of their very own woad natural indigo.

(Above: me trying my hand at overdyeing; in this picture I'm overdyeing a denim tie)

(Above: me overdyeing a polo shirt; it turned out a very deep natural indigo after about 3 rounds in the pit)

The natural indigo overdyed apron I'm wearing in the pictures she gave me as a parting gift; she told me she'd made it, as well as overdyed it herself. I'm hoping I can do some overdyed Steel Feather garments in the future, so I have a good excuse for a trip back to this place.

(Above: this is the natural indigo pit she prepared for me; she told me it was made extra dark for me)

I also overdyed a pair of Steel Feather jeans, which I had especially made in a low tension rope dyed natural indigo denim by Mr Mori. I'll try to get back to you with some pictures of it at a later point. Understandably, I haven't really had a chance to wear it much though

[apba1166]

Anders, thank you. I love the jeans. Here's some fitpics, 3 days of wear.

[lance]

anders, great experience, thanks for sharing

[Anders Helseth]

apba1166, thanks for sharing pictures. Looks like you're off to a good start there. Nice collection of boots to go with them!

lance, you're welcome. Glad you found it interesting.

[dnsnlsn]

apbame- i dont usually comment, but that fit is spot on! Congrats on a great purchase.

[shinobi2000]

apba -- what size do you normally wear in other brands? what size is that pair? thanks

[apba1166]

dsnism--Thanks, They feel good; I'm no judge on fit, usually wear anything, but girlfriend loves these, so I guess Anders hit it it pretty well. Slim, yet I work outdoors a lot and had no problem bending, working in these yesterday.

shinobi--these are a 34. I usually wear 34. I'm 5'11" about 180.

[shinobi2000]

5'11'" 180lbs?? damn you...those are pretty much the absolute perfect fit because of how tall it makes you look. I would have thought you were over 6 feet from how long your legs look in them.