Best Skinny Jeans?

[Astérix]

just looked up the tjallamalla and you know what, JRs aren't quite as expensive as i thought. they're much worse on the kitchener.ch website, though.

I think that is because one, JR is from Sweden and that is where tjallamalla is located. Two, since JR is not a huge company and don't have a ton of different distributors/retailers, they don't necessarily have set prices on their product, except maybe in Sweden, so therefore retailers can charge what they want.

[tweeds]

speaking of international retailers, a name has just sprung to mind: doesn't mauro carry julian red?

Asterix you make much sense. so i should look for someone who stays in sweden or scandinavia to get the best prices, following that logic.

[Astérix]

Yes...Denimbar has both raw Calis and Hobokens for $176(I am thinking of getting a pair of Hobokens). And it is the same concept as Japanese denim...it is always cheaper to go to the source.

[tweeds]

which would be horriblyjollyjinx's new service starting september

we should just retitle this thread Julian Red

[Astérix]

Probably...but it was quite an effective poll...almost 100 votes. Oh...about JR in Sweden...I think it would end up being about the same if you include shipping and finders fee. On all the Swedish sites I have seen they are about $160 so generally $20 less than over here. Either way, you will pay for a quality product that is very unique.

[Iambic_9]

I think we all need to start a petition to get Fos5 to restock on julian reds. Particularly in sizes 30 and 31 in the Nikki Sixx. Asterix, have you managed to find any sweedish sites that will ship abroad?

I'm getting desperate, twitching eyes. My nails are gone. My dreams consist of "blep-bep-ble-ble-bep-beep-beep-j-j-j-julian red" repeating around and around inside my head. I almost thought about going on holiday to Sweeden for this pupose but I could just imagine trapsing from village to village asking for Julian Red, and being presented with blank looks from blonde people.... who tan.

[poopie boy]

^^ hahaha seriously..

is the nikki sixx wash that nice? i've seen pictures of it and it looks alright, but i like the bad black and the black bullet better.

how do julian red hobokens stretch out? i don't want to buy a tight pair of jeans only to have them baggy after a month..

[chris]

mannnnn. id suck my way through sweden for a pair of bad black hoboken in my size.

anyways, dior homme gets my vote for best. acne second. julian red third. but im looking to try out more as well.

[Iambic_9]

I'm really hoping that i'm not going to be too tall for the hobokens if i find a 34 inseam in my size. Anyone else 6'3", or close and still rocking these??

Dior are taylor made for my needs but... ching ching. I'd feel guilty wearing them.

[qom]

Exactly. Plus Thin Finn is just a cool name...Nudie is too fucking clever, it is like they suck you in, damn. I was told the Dry Blacks are quite a bit stiffer than the Dry Indigo Thin Finns.

I've got the black ones, they're not stiff......at all

[darkanimal]

I can't part with my Nikki Sixx even tho I rarely wear them anymore in favor of black jeans, the wash is just so unique and anyone I meet would ask what it is. I sold my Diors, Acne's and APC long time. Yes it is that great!

[jwied82]

On the topic of skinny jeans...

anyone tried any April 77? They seem like the could be alright.

Based on what ive read, I suppose someday ill have to crack and buy some Diors..

But somehow it seems like a big leap to me to go over the 200 dollar mark for a pair of jeans. Also, i must say that i DO NOT like the butt/pocket stitching on them at all. Does it help them fit better at all?

[minya]

Also, i must say that i DO NOT like the butt/pocket stitching on them at all. Does it help them fit better at all?

It is an actual dart, not just stitching for the sake of stitching. Whether or not it does anything, I don't know, but they fit my ass really well.

[darkanimal]

On the topic of skinny jeans...

anyone tried any April 77? They seem like the could be alright.

Based on what ive read, I suppose someday ill have to crack and buy some Diors..

But somehow it seems like a big leap to me to go over the 200 dollar mark for a pair of jeans. Also, i must say that i DO NOT like the butt/pocket stitching on them at all. Does it help them fit better at all?

Go look for Ivalease

[jwied82]

So, we all need to befriend the designer Mattias on myspace and get them from the source! Then all us JR fans can form a myspace group and call it the Julian Red Army or something like that.

[chris]

having seen the diors in pictures, i wasnt IN LOVE with the darts either.

that is, UNTIL I SAW THEM ON MY ASS.

[jwied82]

Yeah, the fit does look great everytime i see someone post a pic wearing them on here.

But, the pics on luisaviaroma make them look pretty bad.

It seems to me that when higher end designers do denim, they for whatever reason cant just make a basic pair of 5 pocket jeans that fit well (with a few exceptions) they have to do something different, and generally designer jeans are bad because of this. Seriously, look through the jeans on luisaviaroma for example, there is some seriously hideous shit there.

to me, the butt darts are just a subtle manifestation of this.

[andewhall]

Yeah the back dart on the Diors def does a big job in putting shape into the ass area. Normally most of the ass shaping is done through curved yoke peices, but I have noticed alot of re-pro jeans are cut with straight yokes? I guess it was easier back in the day to have straight yokes with the baggy ass styles. The Dior cut is a very simple pattern job of moveing the dart to the side, the pocket has the dart through it too. I actually like it alot, nice and simple unlike other crazy designer Jeans.

[Astérix]

Are we gonna be seeing Ande Whall jeans with darts anytime soon? Julian Red jeans are cut with a straight yoke:

[andewhall]

Hey Asterix,

Here is a better explaination of yokes cuts

A: My yoke, when made up looks like a regular yoke, but the curved shape works to mould around the top of the ass

B: Basic straight yoke. I have seen these used alot on old school cuts, re-pros etc. When made they look like a regular yoke, but offers no shaping. When sewn up would sit completely flat on a table.

C: This could be the shape of the yoke on those JR's you posted up, either this or just a basic rectangle shape. When made up the line of the yoke looks completely horizontal.

[Astérix]

Thanks Ande...I see what you mean

[ruach]

With all of the Julian Red talk, I thought I'd ask this here instead of starting a new thread..

I'm a 28 waist, in between the Cali X sizes of 27 and 29; would I be better off hoping to shrink a size 29 (would they even shrink at all?) or trying to stretch a 27?

[odakyu]

neighborhood makes good skinny jeans as well....

[colin]

With all of the Julian Red talk, I thought I'd ask this here instead of starting a new thread..

I'm a 28 waist, in between the Cali X sizes of 27 and 29; would I be better off hoping to shrink a size 29 (would they even shrink at all?) or trying to stretch a 27?

the 27 cali-x actually measures around 26" so I'll assume the 29 would be close to a 28.

[Tyler]

OK - despite having about 4 or 5 pairs of Dior Homme jeans myself - I love them and they are a definite favourite and the fit is the best I've found so far - I am rather ashamed to admit that I have no idea what difference the "darts" make on the seat of the jeans. I just thought they were a detailing on the back pockets but people are talking on here as if the fact that they are "darts" makes a difference to how the jeans fit on the bum.

Can someone expand on this and say what a "dart" actually is (other than a stitched line on the back pocket) and how it affects the fit of the jean?

Thanks

T

[andewhall]

Hey Tyler,

I will do up some more crude diagrams when I find some time. Basically when you make a pattern for jeans you work from a trouser block that has a dart in the centre top of each back peice. The dart is then incorporated into the yoke adding shaping to the ass. In diors case they simply moved the dart to the side and used it instead of in the yoke. Or they may have even moved half the dart to side and incorporated half in the yoke. Pretty simple stuff in the patternmaking world, you can actually move the dart anywhere around the ass, of course it looks shit in alot of places.

[Tyler]

Hi Andrew

Some diagrams would be great! I am still not sure what a dart means. But this must be why Dior jeans fit better on the ass than any others I have ever tried. That's why I love them as they fit so well on the hips and ass. I like a fitted seat without being a nut cruncher and Diors make ass look a good shape!

Any more help would be genuinely much appreciated.

T

[dismalfuture]

^ yo darts are basically when you make an angled cutaway in the fabric like this: <

and then join those two sides to meet at the angle to make a straight stich like this: -----

Think of a waffle cone for ice cream, though the 3-D effect obviously isn't as extreme.

For Diors, the darts are cut so the point of the two angles face in towards the crotch, lifting the bottoms to the tops of the darts

like this : | > | < |

then sewn to this | ---- | ----- |

rounds the ass out a slight bit. In the Dior's case, since the darts are low, on the bottoms of the ass cheeks, they just give a slight roundness to your butt that regular jeans won't, since they pull the thighs in closer to your actual thighs than other jeans can.

[Tyler]

Cool! Thanks for that! Now I know why the ass looks better and why I love Dior jeans! They definitely fit the best on the seat out of all the jeans I wear.

I really appreciate the explanations as to the darts.

I may have to invest in another pair now...

[Astérix]

Now I really need those pictures Ande becuase Dismalfuture has gotten me really confused