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Shoes that look better with age...


mizanation

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It could've been an expensive trip to the store ben, I wish we have similar shop around here. Good update anyway thanks.

I have low experience in high end bootstore, and dough supply will definitely help..

my pleasure - i'm planning another trip up there sometime soon and will share some better photos off the back of it.

i also visited the church's shop in leeds, where i saw some truly dreadful 'vintaged' models which i'd not seen elsewhere (thankfully). their shop window display was made of of these models and a number of shoes made from their 'binder' polished leather. it must reflect the general public's buying taste at the moment, but it was a shame to see their really nice shoes (for me, at least) hidden away inside - not least because church's non-polished leather is generally of a quality to rival crockett & jones.

i was speaking to the owner of the pre-crockett's shoe shop in town the other week, and she firmly believes that hides these days don't come near to the quality of the hides from the 90s and earlier, in her (direct) experience. she reckons it's down to the additives and other shite fed to cows these days...

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And that's why I am a big fan of buying 30 year old boots :P

Tricker's ready on FRiday, Ben... Lotsa pics upcoming B)

Look forward to it - they're in pretty good shape.

i've noticed that some zug leather seems to have a tendency to develop fine surface cracks over the years (possibly because boots and shoes made from it are exposed to the worst of the elements?) so it's important to feed and seal the leather properly.

the only zug that seems to be impervious to this (out of all the veldts i've handled) is the leather used by lotus, which is more likely to be older than most others. they're just bullet-proof...

the surface cracks don't seem to affect the general water resistance of the veldts at all, thankfully.

Edited by CrashTestBrummie
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I've used leather soap to clean them, Lord Sheraton leather balsam to condition them, then Kiwi tan or natural. But still the leather looks dry. Is there any better product to condition them?

Although the leather sole is not too worn, because of the Topy's, it looks tired all round the edges and there's movement and flexing between what is, I guess, the mid sole and outer sole. Is it too early for a resole?

It's probably too early for a resole, unless the sole leather looks dry and cracked. what helps is cleaning off the sole of the shoe every so often with soap (i use lexol soap) letting it dry and then hitting it with some kind of leather moisturizer. double leather soles will last a few years unless you're walking around in the rain all the time.

for the upper i use Saphir Renovateur + Saphir shoe cream + Saphir wax. Might be overkill, but I learned this method from the guys at brift h. it gives it almost a wet looking shine which lasts for weeks.

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gnome: baker's is awesome. that is all.

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It's probably too early for a resole, unless the sole leather looks dry and cracked. what helps is cleaning off the sole of the shoe every so often with soap (i use lexol soap) letting it dry and then hitting it with some kind of leather moisturizer. double leather soles will last a few years unless you're walking around in the rain all the time.

for the upper i use Saphir Renovateur + Saphir shoe cream + Saphir wax. Might be overkill, but I learned this method from the guys at brift h. it gives it almost a wet looking shine which lasts for weeks.

I do those, but every 3 months I am adding in the saphir reno'mat and dubbin. I gave my kangaroo leather Virgil's the full treatment with those a few weeks ago, and they felt better than ever.

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is it possible to use saddle soap to clean boots? Also if the thread of the soles is gone, is it time to resole them? (something I was told by a local cobbler)

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WW2 USA ARMY SERVICE BOOT(I THINK)

Got this to big for me 11.5 B size.Nice & pristine condition for over 60years.

Photo0094.jpg

Somebody who know bout this model , dig this out.i cant figure it beyond my knowledge.

Photo0090.jpg

Read= gardiner shoe & co ,boston july 31 1944.

Photo0088.jpg

sole is still like new.

Photo0085.jpg

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is it possible to use saddle soap to clean boots? Also if the thread of the soles is gone, is it time to resole them? (something I was told by a local cobbler)

Indeed a cobbler would say that… The stitching on an outsole is super tough. Even after the bottom part is gone, the stitches still hold because of the thread expanding into the holes.

the only reasons you only ever need to resole is:

- the leather sole is cracked, dry and (or) worn with the insole peeking through

- if its rubber, worn to death or your walk becomes uncomfortable because of the uneven outsoles (even then you can do a partial resole)

- your job requires you to have a full rubber sole that is waterproof or insulated at all times.

- you love to blow loot on unnecessary customizations (like me)

- or your cobbler is correct, because he is referring to shoes with cheap soles with crap stitching or blake construction shoes.

If you rotate your shoes I think the soles should last for a good few years. heels on the other hand can go every few months.

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WW2 USA ARMY SERVICE BOOT(I THINK)

Got this to big for me 11.5 B size.Nice & pristine condition for over 60years.

Photo0094.jpg

Somebody who know bout this model , dig this out.i cant figure it beyond my knowledge.

Photo0090.jpg

Read= gardiner shoe & co ,boston july 31 1944.

Photo0088.jpg

sole is still like new.

Photo0085.jpg

Nice boots... and my size too...

They're called M43 combat boots. Issued on 1943 to replace the standard garrison shoe I believe... but don't quote me.

PM me if you want to sell them as I might be able to wear them....

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thanks Fresco and Coleslawyum; does not really improve my confidence in that cobbler; he claims to own a rapid E machine, which would be exceptional here in Belgium, but stores it in the back because no work for which it is required. Need to see it with my own eyes first though before I throw in a pair of boots with that guy.

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Ok, Im about to get my Whites started through Baker Shoe. Ive pretty much decided on the style, but there are a few things I need/want some input on.

-Smoke Jumper in Black cxl

-6" or 8". Leaning towards 8

-Swing or Bounty Hunter last, leaning towards BH.

-Antique eye and hooks

-Vibran Half comp. sole.

-Natural Cuban heel, lowered 1/4"

Here's what I am going back and forth on:

-Pull loop or no pull loop?

-Single or double sole? Im not going to be wearing these in the woods. Mostly urban wear, with occasional shit kicking.

-I want double welt, so that means standard sole trim. I have seen some leather soled whites with the standard trim and it just looks odd. Will the added thickness or the composite sole (plus potential double sole) balance the look out?

-Lastly, lined or not? Im leaning towards not lined, but I have never had any unlined boots in anything greater than 4" chukka's

-All input is appreciated. Cheers

From the build a boot generator:

Screenshot2012-03-15at71334PM.png

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@happy hooligan.........Thanks its a really nice boot ,another level of construction and material compare to my RW .so sad i cant wear it.

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The leather used on original M-43 boots was varied somewhat slightly in color, it might just be dubbin/oil not dye.

The soles, heels, and patterning look like the originals, laces too. a great find.

Edited by madstaxbro
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Ok, Im about to get my Whites started through Baker Shoe. Ive pretty much decided on the style, but there are a few things I need/want some input on.

-Smoke Jumper in Black cxl

-8"

- Bounty Hunter

-Antique eye and hooks (nickel or black)

-Natural Cuban heel, lowered 1/4" (I prefer standard)

Here's what I am going back and forth on:

-Pull loop or no pull loop? (I would on an 8 inch)

-Single or double sole? Im not going to be wearing these in the woods. Mostly urban wear, with occasional shit kicking.(double sole looks excessive on a regular shoe, imo)

-I want double welt, so that means standard sole trim. I have seen some leather soled whites with the standard trim and it just looks odd. Will the added thickness or the composite sole (plus potential double sole) balance the look out?, (if you look at my shoes, you'll be able to tell. half sole with standard trim)

-Lastly, lined or not? Im leaning towards not lined, but I have never had any unlined boots in anything greater than 4" chukka's (lined is going to be warmer. plain and simple.)

but hey, opinions are just like assholes....

Edited by wgmds
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A friend found a pair at a thrift shop awhile back and used them as his daily work boots on a farm and they held up well but destroyed his feet. be warned.

Ill-fitting military shoes helped kill Franco. He got some sort of infection and blood poisoning from them, according to a recent bio. Hurrah!

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Serious question, why are Viberg boots almost twice the price of Whites boots? What makes them worth double the money? So far as I see they use the same materials, they are both well crafted, but I have heard the Vibergs are finished "neater". I know when you operate at the price point that both companies do then price can be a moot point, but I am interested in perspectives.

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Serious question, why are Viberg boots almost twice the price of Whites boots? What makes them worth double the money? So far as I see they use the same materials, they are both well crafted, but I have heard the Vibergs are finished "neater". I know when you operate at the price point that both companies do then price can be a moot point, but I am interested in perspectives.

I'm not sure that they are worth double. I have both, but I purchased my Vibergs from Ed before he got banned and before Viberg's pricing went up as much as it has. At the time I paid around $450 for the Viberg merlot chromexcel engineers, which was close to what he paid, and I paid closer to $700 for my Wesco Boss which I tweaked with many extra features.

At that price point the Vibergs were without a doubt the much better bet. But if I had to pay close to $1k for Viberg engineers today, or somewhere between $500-$700 for Wescos I wouldn't even consider the Vibergs as I don't see much of a difference in the quality between my two pairs. On most things they offer similar quality, although Viberg seems to offer a slight edge in terms of customization and choice of leathers/color.

Not to mention you can get numerous other brands (speaking strictly about the engineers here, not the other models) in a price point similar to the Wescos that offer plenty of options as well if Wesco doesn't fit what you're looking for. I still love my Vibergs, and I highly recommend them as a top notch boot, but I would want to pay a price close to Wesco pricing for them.

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