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Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

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I have wanted to start this thread or hoping somebody would have started this thread.

I believe the official name of the company is Freewheelers now, but they used to be called Bootleggers Reunion. I am not positive on their history, but I believe they once worked for The Real McCoy, but when shit went sour there, they broke off and started Bootleggers, which I believe went under as well, but was revived by the same folks as Freewheelers. Not positive why.

They don't produce your run of the mill jeans, although, I believe they did under the Bootlegger's name. They are more into some of the other period pieces from the turn of the century up until the early 40s. I am really taken by their wabash/railroader clothes.

Quality is truly second to none and their attention to details is what makes their repro clothes more believable than many other companies trying to do the same thing.

Here are a couple stockists:

Porky's english rakuten site:

http://search.borderless.rakuten.com/borderless/search.action?sid=porkys&l=en

Bananafish english rakuten site:

http://search.borderless.rakuten.com/borderless/search.action?sid=banana-f&l=en

Also Speedway Shop run by john Lofgren carries these as well. He will do special orders if the item is still stocked.

Shoot him an email for inquiries. His ebay shop is:

http://stores.ebay.com/Speedway-shop?_rdc=1

Here is the polka dot conductor shirt I picked up:

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Some shots of the portions that are fading:

right elbow area

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The cuffs:

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I hate when people do this, but I am gonna go ahead and do it.

This picture doesn't quite show the fading going on, but the bend of the arm is actually getting a honeycomb affect.

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A nice little detail I have never seen before on a shirt.

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A little bit closer you can see there are two selvedge ends sewn together to make the two piece sleeve.

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Here are the square dot wabash striped pants. A lot of intricate details. Single needle lockstitch for the most part, but also for some reason double needle chainstitch on the inseam and outseam. Not quite sure why they went that route.

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Probably the coolest part of the pants is the one-piece fly.

This is the one-piece tag with the "Patent Applied For" words on it.

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Here you see how the one-piece fly actually works. It is one continuous fly that is folded on itself. One fold holds the buttons, the other side has the button holes. I wish current jeans had this feature. Seems much stronger than some stitching. A little bulkier maybe though.

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Shiny copper backs for the tack buttons.

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A little bit of a closer look.

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The outside of the split back. The cinch is put to good use. Looks kinda too busy, but I really like all the single needle tacking to strengthen the points of stress.

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Inside of the split back.

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Inside out pics

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.....Brakeman Continued

Top button, belt loops, and suspender buttons:

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hints of fading on the back pocket.

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A close up of the inside of the back pockets.

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The Bootleggers Railroader chore coat.

There isn't anything particularly special about this chore coat, except the fabric is, like the brakeman overalls, spectacular.

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watch pocket:

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Left cuff showing a bit of fading:

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Right cuff:

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Cuff button:

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Chest buttons:

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Selvedge on the inside of the front pockets

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The fabric. I believe it is an indigo dyed warp, with a black weft. I think the indigo is pulled out using the discharge method, which lifts indigo out

where the white pattern should be.

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I really like KTH's stuff and I think for the most part he puts out some great shirts, but I don't think the KTH shirt is done as well as the Freewheeler's shirt. The fabric of the Freewheelers feels a bit more substantive and the dots are much smaller, which look like more of the vintage pieces that I have seen (on the internet not in real life). The dye on the Freewheelers looks much darker and the little details, like the selvedge on the inside sleeves, make me like the Freewheelers better. Although, the KTH is a very nice shirt as well.

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In two minds about this thread.....

rnr....the inevitable rep for the cool pieces and giving Freewheelers the attention they deserve.....

....but fuck you for blowing up the spot.

Edit: love the photos of the inside of the Brakeman pants.

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Thanks for starting this thread!

Got some more at this spot.

I heard that the Bootleggers guys were too hardcore about the "authenticity" of the product. I feel that the Real McCoy's is more setup as a business anyway, but with great product.

Can't really compare K&TH to Bootleggers. It's a one man operation (with a little help) and is a bit more on the crafty side. However, Takashi-san's dedication and passion is very evident whenever I handle his product.

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isn't comparing KTH and Bootleggers a little unfair? Their prices are different. It seems like Bootleggers are for nuts(rnr) while KTH is affordable repro w/o compromises. Obviously, they both do great things and deserve a ton of attention.

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wahwho11 makes a great point regarding price point.

I will take some pictures of my FW/BR shirts and pant sometime this week.

I am not a vintage expert but how accurate are FW/BR pieces? FW got some really interesting work pants and shirts with very unique fabrics but I am not sure if they are historically accurate.

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isn't comparing KTH and Bootleggers a little unfair? Their prices are different. It seems like Bootleggers are for nuts(rnr) while KTH is affordable repro w/o compromises. Obviously, they both do great things and deserve a ton of attention.

I would agree it is unfair, but KTH did try their/his hand at the conductor shirt. Also, I think it is good to know what you are getting for the higher price of Freewheelers. Some would say the differences don't justify the higher price and I can totally see that point, although, I do believe the higher price is justified, for me that is.

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Dang they need to restock 38s on the chore coat. Hopefully before Christmas.

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I really like KTH's stuff and I think for the most part he puts out some great shirts, but I don't think the KTH shirt is done as well as the Freewheeler's shirt. The fabric of the Freewheelers feels a bit more substantive and the dots are much smaller, which look like more of the vintage pieces that I have seen (on the internet not in real life). The dye on the Freewheelers looks much darker and the little details, like the selvedge on the inside sleeves, make me like the Freewheelers better. Although, the KTH is a very nice shirt as well.

i do agree with you. FW is one step ahead..and that dont refrain me from buying almost all KTH shirts every month. ....

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I love this brand , their attention to details is amazing; still have to pick up my first piece from them though...

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i do agree with you. FW is one step ahead..and that dont refrain me from buying almost all KTH shirts every month. ....

No doubt. i usually pick one of his shirts every three months or so.

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White Pepper Chambray

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Close up. You can see the iron button, yellow stitching and fabric up close.

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Inside both pockets have selvedge details

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Gusset and chainstitch runoff

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Sleeve

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I just got the black pepper version a few days ago

Close up of the front pocket. Iron button is painted black.

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Basically the same as Neal Cassidy but with slightly different details

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Close up shot. The fabric feels coarse yet light weight. Somehow this linen chambray fabric feels old.

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man i love the light beige one snake, awesome, and who doenst love neal cassady

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Indigo Chambray

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right front pocket details

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left front pocket details

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inside pocket, behind left front pocket

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cnan you do measurement on that navy shirt?

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white x Indigo graind chambray

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Placket is lined with indigo stripe chambray

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cnan you do measurement on that navy shirt?

size: 16

Chest: 55cm

Length: 69cm

Shoulder: 44 cm

Sleeve: 21.5 cm

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thansk man! perfect

wanna sell me that navy serviceman shirt?

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snake, amazing collection, my next shirt purchase will have to be bootleggers/freewheelers!

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does anyone own the hickory conductor stripe shirt? would you say it fits TTS?

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No problem. I was being lazy and hoped somebody else would do it.

Snake,

Fucking great shirts. I have been wondering if the selvedge detailing on the inside of the sleeves is an insanely efficient use of fabric or a horrible waste of fabric. Hmmm.

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Slab - All my Freewheelers shirts are the same size as KTH shirts. Although my Freewheelers shirts are about half a size slimmer in the chest compare to KTH workshirts.

Rnr - I love the selvedge details but I think it does require a lot of fabric unless they are very creative with pattern cutting.

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