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Japanese '50s Cut Repros


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Edwin did a nice cut called the Ed-49. That I believe fits in this category.It has now been discontinued seemingly due to lack of sales,according to an Edwin employee.Still available in limited sizes at Oi Polloi and over in Stockholm and Weil am Rhein.Quite a tapered look due to 7.5 leg opening.Fit me perfectly with enough room to be comfortable without being an anti-fit.The. 16/11.5 Rise combination is my ideal and yet so elusive these days.

13.7 oz raw Japanese rainbow selvage

W 31 (actual 33)

FR 11.5

BR 16

Th 12

Kn 8.5

LO 7.5

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x-post from Vintage thread as there’s a significant 50s component therein:

10 hours ago, indigoeagle said:

I've been discussing this a little with @beautiful_FrEaK, a simple overview of the jeans mostly focussed upon here, i.e. from 36 to 55.
We noticed that the 47 has of course been widely discussed, as have in the recent years the different WWII and 46 models.
On the different 50s models there hasn't been that much discussion, I found.

These are, I think, the main characteristics regarding denim and cut.

36/37:
probably the widest fit (thigh, knee, hem)
dark denim
denim relatively smooth
stitch colour: mostly tobacco/orange (LVC has some lemon/yellow in it)

42:
two versions, one with cinch, one without, already coarser WWII denim
stitch colour: yellow
WWII: different versions, but generally higher rise,
wider in the thigh and knee, a little tapered,
dark denim
relativel coarse (neepy and slubby to various degrees) denim
stitch colour: yellow
 

46/47:
Rise a little lower than the WWIIs
Upper thight a little less than WWIIs, knee similar to WWIIs, hem wider than WWIIs, thus straighter, hardly any taper
less dark denim, more blue
relatively smoother denim
stitch colour: orange and yellow
47 tab one sided (katamen)

50s- there seem to be three main model: 1951, 1953 and 1954 (and on)
1951-
little lower rise compared with the 47, similar thigh, less knee and hem
denim again a bit brighter
similar denim to 47
stitching is mostly brown with some yellow
tab both sided (ryomen)

1953- the year the type 2 jacket was introduced
while the 51 became slimmer in the knee and hem than the 47, the 53s got wider than the 47s again in the knee and hem
denim seems similar to 47 and 51
stitching is mostly brown with some yellow (rainbow stitching) with the arcs from the WH version in yellow
shorter side stiches
no more selvedge in the coin pocket
narrower v-stitch
tab both sided (ryomen)

1954- very similar to the 1953
according to the WH models the hem is a little wider
switch to more mass production had the back middle belt loop move a bit to the left, offset --> easer to sew as the material/fabric is not as thick
the WH model still has the leather patch, later switch to paper patch
yarn colours like 53 model

1956- The FW model is even slimmer than the 1951 one, knee and hem

Now while the FWs, TCB and WH 50s models I checked all had mainly brown stitching with some yellow (waist, arcs, ...) the 50s models of Cushman (lot 22177) and also Joe McCoy (905S) have mostly yellow stitching.
Cushman
ab42180f26bbc.jpg

8cc48149c98de.jpg
 

Joe McCoy
1251786721.jpg
147625944_o7.jpg?cmsp_timestamp=20191227

So where there models in the 50s with mostly brown stitching and others with mostly yellow?
Or is this based on specific year models?

Perhaps something is stated in the 501 book.

Here are some helpful measurements and overview graphics from the Duke.
1F38D359-C4AB-472C-9F0D-CB4425896CDC.jpe
AF74B901-4F2F-45AA-90F3-8A57D2016D4F.jpe00CCA14F-9523-413D-888F-F02060069461.jpe

 

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