Photography Post Vol. 2

[Swych]

first post:

someone suggest a way i can remove the purple glare bits? thats really pissing me off.

http://imagesocket.com/view/crash_webf5f.jpg

http://content.imagesocket.com/images/crash_webf5f.jpg

http://imagesocket.com/view/underthebridge2_webfdb.jpg

http://content.imagesocket.com/images/underthebridge2_webfdb.jpg

[Swych]

do the same rules apply for dSLR's? turn down the ISO to decrease the noise?

yeah. try and stay as low as possible.

[airfrogusmc]

Why do you get so much noise when you push the film alot? I would've though since it's open for less time you'd just get lots of black and only stuff with alot of light would show up. I guess i dont fully understand everything...

When you push film you are underexposing and over developing which increases the curve (increases contrast) which makes the grain (silver halide crystals) more evident. If you want to shot digitally in low light situations get a camera with a good sensor and good glass. If ya wanna play ya gotta pay.

[backinthetrees]

first post:

someone suggest a way i can remove the purple glare bits? thats really pissing me off.

photoshop??

If ya wanna play ya gotta pay.

dude said it best.

[guffer]

Swych - get a program called dxo optics

[Swych]

photoshop??

lol yes i know photoshop. but none of the tools i tried really did it for me. thing is i'm trying to print this 44 inch wide x 70 inch and it really has to be flawless.

i'll give it a try guffer

[airfrogusmc]

To enlarge this is the program

http://www.ononesoftware.com/detail.php?prodLine_id=2

Try the cloning tool in photoshop.

[Swych]

its hard to clone because the purple has this sorta glow around it the diffuses quite far into the brown and i don't want too many pixels.

i dont need to enlarge, that photo is 67 different ones stitched together

[jeepster]

jeepster that first picture is amazing. The contrast is great. I almost missed the trees in the background because I looked at it too fast. I miss doing my own printing. Hooking my digital camera up to my computer just isn't the same. Do you have your own lab?

actually i did it up at a local art studio/gallery as part of a student run program. thats where i learned most of the stuff (other than what my dad taught me with an old box camera). they had a really small but nice printing room with a darkroom in the back. i left some of the negative in on the first photo, which gives it that black border. i only have the negatives these days, unfortunately i lost the prints i made. come to think of it, i dunno where the negatives are either... alas, at least my buddy made me some scans before they went missing. thanks for the comment 7south

[aaronS]

lol yes i know photoshop. but none of the tools i tried really did it for me. thing is i'm trying to print this 44 inch wide x 70 inch and it really has to be flawless.

i'll give it a try guffer

i forget what its called but there is a thing in photoshop where you can decrease certain colors using the complements. I dont 'have it on tthis computer so i can't check the exact name but with a little searching you can find it. its great for removing any color casts from photos

[aaronS]

What do you guys do as far as color processing? Is it worth it to take it to a higher end place or just take it to the local 1hour place?

its not like i'll be using the prints for more than proof bc the negatives will get scanned anyway. so...

[__Nicholas]

saw the flaming lips tonight...

heres a few pictures .. i was super far away and my shitty lense didnt do me any good.

http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/9800/flaminglips3rg3.jpg

i was wishing i had a nice long zoom lense..

amazing live show!

[7south]

What do you guys do as far as color processing? Is it worth it to take it to a higher end place or just take it to the local 1hour place?

its not like i'll be using the prints for more than proof bc the negatives will get scanned anyway. so...

most 1 hour places are fine unless you want enlargements greater than 8 x 10's. beware of costco (if you have one near you). I've heard too many horror stories of lost rolls of film from that place.

[mike lowrey]

Nicholas, please resize your next pictures to a bit smaller

[guffer]

nothing special, but some of my travel stuff is here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/martin_kendall/

philippines/singapore/hkg/japan etc

[RAISED BY WOLVES]

i forget what its called but there is a thing in photoshop where you can decrease certain colors using the complements. I dont 'have it on tthis computer so i can't check the exact name but with a little searching you can find it. its great for removing any color casts from photos

I think you're talking about the selective color layer adjustment, or possibly Hue and saturation for specific areas of the image. if your talking about moore general casts, that would be levels or curves. All of these are layer adjustments, which can be found in either the bottom right hand side of the layer pallette, or up on the menu on top off the screen.

What do you guys do as far as color processing? Is it worth it to take it to a higher end place or just take it to the local 1hour place?

its not like i'll be using the prints for more than proof bc the negatives will get scanned anyway. so...

I reccomend a pro lab. I see your line of thinking here. "well, I'll just be using their crappy prints for proofs" but that faulty logic lies in the assumption that it is only the prints that will be of poor quality. In fact, it is the processing of the negatives themselves that will suffer.

Its worth the extra couple bucks for the care and expertise of a good pro lab. Just get "process only" (5 to 8 bucks a roll), make contacts yourself, and then scan.

It's well worth the trouble.

[Loop]

I think you're talking about the selective color layer adjustment, or possibly Hue and saturation for specific areas of the image. if your talking about moore general casts, that would be levels or curves. All of these are layer adjustments, which can be found in either the bottom right hand side of the layer pallette, or up on the menu on top off the screen.

Or possibly Variations since that displays the colour casts in a sort of colour wheel display (so the complementaries are opposite each other).

[airfrogusmc]

And remember what computer your are working on because PC's are factory set at 9300 K and Macs are set at 5500K big dif in color.

[tweeds]

nothing special, but some of my travel stuff is here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/martin_kendall/

philippines/singapore/hkg/japan etc

martin kendall? didn't you get your equipment snitched a few months ago or something...i remember reading about it somewhere.

[guffer]

no, that was andrew kendall (no relation)

[tweeds]

oh....oops

[likewtfyo]

i tried looking for threads about a sorta photography that seemed so surreal. and it was tweaked in photoshop to be perfect lighting, stuff like that.

the photos would turn out to be very "drawing-like" colours and all. anyone has info on this?

anyway, here's one to share, http://www.vanityfair.com/culture/features/2007/03/filmnoir_portfolio200703?slide=1

i love the photos. they're just perfect...

[7south]

Anne Leibowitz is amazing. She somehow manages to capture entire pesonalities in a single image.

[wild_whiskey]

Question for the photo experts here:

I'm going to be taking some photos of Judo matches tonight for an ad campaign. The problem is that the setting (a gym) is less than helpful as far as lighting goes. Anyone with experience doing this have a few tricks of the trade they utilize?

I thought of a couple things:

1) Judo gi's are not shiny at all, so the flash wouldn't screw them up.

2) I basically have the options of no flash photography on higher ISO's (which is unfortunate because these are going to be printed 20" wide, so I want as little grain possible), or.. lower ISO and a lot of camera raw work, or flash (I don't have an external flash yet, simply can't afford one).

If anyone has experience doing this and there's something I'm missing here, let me know. I'd love to be more prepared for this.

[ayn]

what camera and lens are you gonna be using? how close are you gonna be to the subject? sounds like you have to stay within reasonable low ISO range, but you will still need relatively fast shutter speed to freeze actions and minimize camera shakes... you probably want to bring/borrow a monopod with you... a remote flash synced with PocketWizard will be very helpful, can you borrow one from a friend somewhere?

[aaronS]

paintshop pro has a thing to reduce digital noise and it works pretty well. if i were to do it i'd shoot higher iso and get a sharper subject then a blurrier subject with a nice smooth background. plus i'm sure if its some type of martial arts they'll be lots of moving. never shot judo but i did soemthing similar with capoeria (sp?) use you on camera flash to freeze motion just don't over do it.

[ayn]

well, (adobe) Camera Raw can do noise reduction in color and luminance, but he is printing to 20", which will really be pushing it unless he has a 1Ds M2 or D2x or 5D... something like Noise Ninja might help, also Geniune Fractal to upsize...

[wild_whiskey]

It's a 18-55 3.4-5.6 lens on a 10mp DSLR. I can be as close to the subject as I need to be. I'll probably be shooting in 18mm so I can use the 3.4f aperture setting.

I used this camera to make 20" prints before @ ISO 200 and the quality was impeccable. No noise whatsoever... I imagine if I kept it under 640 it wouldn't be visible in print with noise reduction, which I didn't use during the last shoot.

I run it through a lot of filters in photoshop too, which hides any possible noise even more. Here is what the final images look like (don't harass me on the dodging/burning, I haven't finished it quite yet ):

Of course it was way easier to get good exposure for the Kung Fu shoot because it was all outdoors.

[wild_whiskey]

They didn't come out bad at all. I used 18mm, 3.5f and 1/100 shutter speed and ISO 200.

[ALViLLN]

back with some black and white pics...

shot with nikon EM...