Studio D'artisan

[Mild7]

Hi guys,

Well unfortunately I had to sell my 1st pair of SD's, SD103 due to the nut busting rise and tight thighs. Perhaps I should've sized 1 up from tts?? Anyway I'm looking for a slightly roomier alternative now.

I saw the SD 601-00 on Tate & Yoko and was wondering if anyone had any experience with this cut? Is it a new(ish) release?

I guess you could say I'm looking for an SDA model as close to a '55 cut as possible. Does anyone have any input? As I said a few pages back, I love SDA's build quality and overall feel but I'm struggling a bit with their cuts.

Oh and Raaawr = Hot!

Thanks all,

Mike.

Edited August 15, 2012 by Mild7

[Maynard Friedman]

If you like the 103 but want more thigh room and a higher rise, then I think you should just get the 101 in the same size. They are a 50s cut and will resolve both of those issues.

[Mild7]

Thanks Maynard. Most helpful as per usual.

[BrownMetallic]

... or 003 if you want the taper.

prob is where to kop.

[Mild7]

Cheers Mr Brown.

I reckon some 101's might be my next perr. Size 34, same as my Sammies, Eternals & IH's..

[ranonranonarat]

need some fit pics jonny.

[Foxy2]

.....

Edited September 3, 2012 by Foxy2

[Foxy2]

BTW - these are produced for SDA by Double Volante.

I saw these in May at the SDA store in Tokyo... I think they are only available there. I totally forgot what the deal/story is with these but the patch is great/funny.

[shiuym]

Just got a SD-103!!! Very cool!

But don't know why the left leg is slightly twisted. I have this problem and I recall my brother has the same problem on his SD as well.

Does anyone has the same problem? Why it is like this? Am I doing something wrong?

Thank you!

[rockon99]

has to do with shrinkage after you wash them. some people are super into it cos its vintage as fuq. you aren't doing anything wrong, it happens.

[shiuym]

Thanks rockon99. Maybe more importantly, is there anything I can do to fix this?

[Planetarium]

you can't. right hand twill twists towards the right as it shrinks, left hand twill twists towards the left. Broken twill jeans will not twist, but are not very common.

[Paul T]

Japanese makers don't like broken twill. They think it's too modern and makes things too easy.

And yes, for vintage buffs, leg twist is associated with pre-70s jeans - and is therefore highly prized.

[shiuym]

To Paul T: So my jeans has a twisted leg, and this is a good thing?

[Paul T]

Denim has changed throughout its history - even in the 50s and 60s the technology used was very simple. The looms on which it was woven would do so very slowly... the denim had a unique texture and appearance. And errors - in stitching, inconsistency, other little quirks - were part of that unique charm.

Leg twist happens, as has been pointed out, because as the jeans shrink the fabric tries to follow the direction of the weavve. Different old Levi's would exhibit varying amounts of leg twist - and although there are theories, nobody's certain why, it could be to do with how the loom was set up that day. Then in the 70s, denim was "improved" - they came up with a technique called skewing, that got rid of it. At the same time, they introduced projectile looms, which made the denim much smoother. At the time they thought this was great. At last, perfect denim!

A few years later they decided perfect denim, with no errors, was characterless. And leg-twist was part of the character that people missed.

SDA are made pretty much in tribute to those old Levi's. I know the natural indigo version at least, and maybe yours too, are made on Toyoda looms that date back to the 1920s - I saw them in use just a few weeks ago. The leg twist is a quirk that's an intrinsic part of their character, like the grain on black and white film, like the natural analogue compression of vinyl records. Like the way that really attractive people aren't perfectly symmetrical.

OF course, some people prefer digital photos, MP3s , and the perfection of retouched footballers' wives. So we can't say one is definitively better than the others, it's just what you prefer. What made you choose SDA in the first place?

Edited September 11, 2012 by Paul T

[TooAwesome]

Sadly that's a big enough turn off to not get them. Unless I plan to never wash.

Was gonna get the big collabs eventually because of its fit and weight.

[Maynard Friedman]

Remember, this will apply to any raw denim that isn't sanforized or broken twill, not just SDA, so it'll reduce your options considerably.

[setterman]

you don't like leg twist, and yet you're on a forum where 90% of the jeans discussed are going to twist when shrunk.....

[shiuym]

Thank you very much for your responds! It is great, and I learn more about denim!!! Thanks Paul!

Oh, by the way, the reason I choose SD was because I have a momotaro. I love the fit and the slow fade characteristic. I was asking around different stores and people recommend me to give SD a try~

to setterman: I am not "don't like twist leg", this is the first raw denim I have out of 3 others having the twist leg. So it was new to me, and I am just wonder I messed up something big!!!

[ranonranonarat]

they're just jeans, you cant really mess up on them unless you can't get your ass into them, or you try to artificially fade them. i think you will enjoy your SDAs very much if you like the slow beautiful vintage fade.

[setterman]

shiyum, my response was aimed at tooawesome. with a little looking through the evolution thread (or any other) or reading the encyclopedia, leg twist shouldn't be a surprise for you.

[shiuym]

Thanks to all answered my questions!!! Those are great answers. I was trying to post some pictures of my jeans on here but it turned out unsuccessfully. Well, I will try it again and thanks again for all of you guys.

[domu]

106

1 year

3x wash

[bod]

Very nice Domu. SD103's were my first ever pair of Jap raws, I need to stop fucking around with other brands and get another pair sometime.

[Maynard Friedman]

I'm wearing your old 101s today Freezie! They're coming on nicely!

[Mild7]

Beautiful Domu

[Mild7]

Was planning to replace my too tight sz33 103's with some sz34 101's.. Unfortunately the 101's inseam is 33.75" and I need 35.

What are the thoughts on sizing up 1 on 103's instead? Maybe trying a 36? Look crap? I'm a perfect 34 in Samurai, IH and Eternal.

Edited October 8, 2012 by Mild7

[Maynard Friedman]

Mild,

Are you talking 35" raw or post-wash? The 101s have a 35" inseam in the raw state, which will shrink to around 33" eventually.

I thought the 103 had the same inseam as the 101.

[Mild7]

Yeah mate I'm talking post soak 35".

I was browsing Rakuten and BIG and could have sworn the 103 were quoted around 2" longer than the 101's.

Might have to email Gordon for a double check.

[Maynard Friedman]

You're right for sizes 34 and up, the 103 inseam is longer. What was it on your size 33 - according to BiG, it should have still been 35".

If you fancy the 101 cut in 21oz with a long inseam, the D1546 could do the trick:

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=10432&category_id=&manufacturer_id=12&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=62

Also, if you fancy some LHT action, the 001s have a much longer inseam than the 101s and are a similar cut, though you'd need to size down one from your 101 size. I think superdenim.co.uk have them.

Edited October 8, 2012 by Maynard Friedman