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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/27/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    @maharu If I go by how much the first sample stretched (4 cm-isch) 33 could probably work, though it will put more strain on the jeans. I'd say it depends on how slim you want your jeans. @Babaron Welcome to Sufu! What a great way to kick it off! About the contest prizes, all the details are not 100 % yet, but the winner will get a pair of Denimbridge jeans and also a prize from the boys at Göteborg Manufaktur. So definitely a good haul for the winner! How long do you guys think we should run the contest? The usual 18 months? And are you guys OK to let the Japanese dudes and instagrammers in on it like with the TCB contest? I think that would be fun. Bonus denim pics:
  2. 2 points
    https://www.instagram.com/p/Bx4ieTCoPqq/ A little more than a year, washed every 14-20 wears approx.
  3. 2 points
    that's fine if you don't believe it, all good -- i don't have an obligation to prove anything and since we're online, everything should be taken with reservation (my posts included). i do find your questions a bit strange, however ... this isn't an interrogation, and as i said before, i certainly won't disclose any info regarding an active business contact of my former boss, すまん. i also don't know if you are familiar with how visits to a tannery or a leather wholesaler work -- i worked for a different branch in leather processing, as i wrote above in my post -- since i was responsible for quality control of the hides that go into production, of course i had to check and see every single one of them. when you go to a tannery to talk about leather that you use for production, you also check it out, because you want improvements or changes regarding the tanning process of the hides. even though my interest in shoes and shoe leather is purely private, i had a look at the hides the same way i used to inspect leather that i worked with, so it's odd to ask if i had seen the leather. it was a visit to a german tannery and a quote from 2012. add-on: have you asked any other tanneries apart from shinki and horween or have you visited one in person -- how many tanneries do you know? i'm curious now, because if you are only familiar with the ones mentioned, that would explain why you only know about their pricing alone. on another note, i can't talk about horse leather from the 1950s (the wolverine advertisement), so let's stick to leather from the 2000s, everything else is irrelevant. in the same advertisement, wolverine praises pigskin shoes and claims it's high quality leather (it is good leather, but not for leisure or dress shoes), i can't take the text there too seriously, i'm afraid. but let's go through the べじたん blog entry (interesting blog about leather with a lot of devotion put into it -- i enjoyed skimming through the posts) that you linked step by step: point a) the newspaper article claiming that horween and shinki are the only remaining cordovan suppliers in the world is from 1991, from a chicago tribune freelance contributor, is false. the majority of the horse hides are imported from europe to asia (japan) and north america (usa). the tanning knowledge originated in europe (asia and africa, too -- but for the purpose of this topic, i'll stick to europe), and you can find in spain, italy, france and germany (and very likely in a number of other european countries as well) at least one tannery that is capable of processing horse hides to obtain shell cordovan. point b) japanese pricing is generally higher, no offense. i have lived in japan and speak japanese, and basically everything is either twice the price or significantly more expensive than elswhere. sieck international in germany (which is not a business contact, so no problem posting here) sells cordovan horse hides for € 105 a piece (ranging from one to 1½ square meters). sieck is a reseller: cordovan culatten the links in the べじたん blog reference mostly u.s. sources or links with connections to shoe manufacturers/retailers in some way or another. shell cordovan has become a brand name, first and foremost, which is predominantly associated with horween in chicago and this is based on their successful marketing and close ties to the shoe industry in north america. nothing wrong with that, but again, i rather turn to sources that have no vested interest when they share information about something. why would a tannery publicly say that there are other tanneries (read competitors) who could do their job? you wouldn't believe how coveted these pieces of information are. do not forget that there are other languages besides english, and thus non-english notions for cordovan. another link (in german only) on how horse hides have to be tanned differently depending on their sections: rossoberleder point c) the vast (as in up to 95 %) majority of customers of tanneries and distributors are enterprises. retail prices are for end customers. but contacting a tannery and buying directly from one as a private individual works of course, and there you can save significant sums of money, depending on the amount you purchase. i have never been involved with the shoe industry apart from being a customer. i have been out of the leather processing industry for several years now, and this is my final say on the issue regarding shell cordovan. you have every right to disagree, that's perfectly legitimate -- but don't insinuate that i haven't spoken truthfully, just because you made other experiences or don't have the info that i received. i know what i had asked the tanner and i know what he had told me and which leather i had seen, thanks.
  4. 2 points
    So y'all know I'm the biggest opponent to the whole relaxed tapered thing, but I've found it impossible to find a pair of black jeans so I sprung for these XX-19-BB sized up. I'm surprisingly really happy with the raw fit, they don't feel super snug at the hem. They are in the wash now so hopefully they don't shrink up way too much!
  5. 2 points
    I know as previously discussed, Skull is not really in high regard anymore for a number of reasons, but I really like these 5507xx. One of my favorite fitting pairs. At 113 days, one hot soak, one wash. Coming along nicely.
  6. 2 points
  7. 1 point
    Thanks a lot for sharing, Bryan. Hope you guys enjoy the interview. Any feedback will be much appreciated! Thanks,
  8. 1 point
    Dr. Sole recently did an interview with Michiya Suzuki, former director of Red Wing Japan: https://www.drsole2011.com/blog-1/my-favorite-boots-9 Michiya has a new YouTube channel dedicated to boots too:
  9. 1 point
    Hi guys! I'm waiting for an answer about the hemming and we haven't decided how to handle the one-washing yet. Of course you'll be able to change your mind later on if you forgot to mention it, Kuniyoshi-san starts sewing in August after all. Here are measurements after a hot rinse and now a 40 degree machine wash. Waist is measured flat (not aligned) and the rises using Shingos measuring method. So it shrinks a little more than the chart says. But then it stretches out. Size 35 Waist: 42 cm Thigh: 32 cm Front rise: 31 cm Back rise: 36 cm Inseam: 83,5 cm Hem: 20 cm
  10. 1 point
    Came for the thread title, stayed for the discussion! My favourites have changed enormously over the years (I imagine this is true of almost all of us?), but at the moment I really love: The Mister Freedom lot 64 cut (extra medium, almost high rise, generous hem for engineer boots), especially in the Okinawa denim and NOS Organic Cotton. The Mister Freedom chinos also deserve honourable mention. The Real McCoys 004 and Joe McCoys 991XH. Very similar 60s style cuts, great fabric, an extremely comfortable jean. The Samurai 710 if I want something a bit more contemporary, quite a mid-low rise, slim silhouette. Following @Iron Horse's example, some fit pics. Mister Freedom Okinawa lot 64 (with bonus moody little man): Mister Freedom NOS 64: Mister Freedom Chinos: Real McCoys 004:
  11. 1 point
    Can you confirm these are Japanese made? They don’t say LVC anywhere but I bought them maybe 10 years ago on Ebay. Over 40 years of STF 501 experience but I don’t yet feel qualified to wear these. Wash tag is JP and pricetag is JPY. Thanks
  12. 1 point
    Thirded... lovely shades and serious leg twist!
  13. 1 point
    Do any new SC pants come with these buttons? So cool. Like the original cloth patch on the first style 40001 or 41001? I am a SC fan and have bought 6 pair in 8 months but I am of the opinion they are not focusing their energy on the brand like they used to in the archives I see. Hope I am wrong.
  14. 1 point
    The three pants I’m wearing now: Freewheelers 1943, Anatomica Utility Pants, and Cushman chinos:
  15. 1 point
    ^I'm with ALB. Once I have also asked to Shinki and Horween (They were the only two cordovan suppliers AFAIK) and they both said over $100 sq.ft depending on the grade (Better cordovan costs x1.5). http://vegtan.blogspot.com/2015/08/horween-part4.html This blog is about the price of cordovan. (Sorry it's in Japanese) The graph says 2 sq.ft costs $202 in Jun 2014 and I'm very sure the current price is higher. So I am also very curious about which tannery sells at 40 euro. Is it really retail price? Have you seen the leather itself? Are there any pictures? Which maker uses that cordovan? And as ALB said before, there are various interpretations about the word "cordovan". This is my cordovan shoes. 1950s Town Shoes from Wolverine It clearly says cordovan. But people can easily says its not cordovan (both upper and outsole). This is the ad from 1956 LIFE magazine. Now and old, cordovan is not always the cordovan like Alden uses, even if horse leather is used.
  16. 1 point
    The most luxurious watch ever made. The "terrorist watch"
  17. 1 point
    Some pics from my small collection. 1. Viberg 310 Last, merlot cxl. like 8-9 years old. Heel recently replaced. 2. Custom Wesco Jobmaster 7oz oil tan leather r/o leather x black pebble, olive heavy stitching, narrow last, brass hardware, 1 lift lower heel. 3. White's packer, originally steel toe. was customised by brass tokyo. full resole to 705 vibram half soles, steel toe removed, unstructured toe now. 10 years old or os. 4. RedWing GT Thats how it all started. Like 9-10 years old. Black cherry. Customized few times. Resoled with Dr. Sole white soles. Rolled top removed and added stitching on top. Some new laces here. False tongues were bought somewhere in Germany i believe =) 5. Alden x Leffot saddle shoes. Cordovan x Alpine grain leather
  18. 1 point
    Visvim / Resolute / OSB
  19. 1 point
    Nothing too fancy here folks, but wanted to share a positive experience with getting my RW 2968 reheeled in the UK. Sent them off to The Boot Repair Co - http://www.bootrepaircompany.co.uk/ Very quick turnaround of about a week and a quality like for like replacement. Recommended.
  20. 1 point
    Denime from 2 different eras; Orizzonti Shins From the Shins era details, I think this is a WWII model. Cmiiw. Or does anyone know about this?
  21. 1 point
    ^ Why not make them her surprise return-to-work present for you? I’m sure she’d be thrilled!
  22. 1 point
    Unworn 105s compared to a pair of worn 107s, both size 2. Worn in rotation for perhaps 11 months, not counting breaks for other pairs. Took the pictures in march, when the sun came back to sweden after a long absence, but never posted them.. Barely wear the 107s nowadays, mainly due to the tight calves. 105s patiently biding their time..
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    A couple weeks ago I won an auction for these and they finally showed up today. One of the last arcs and tab kakishibu lot 285. Pretty much like new condition
  25. 1 point
    XX-005 from September 2010 next to its successor the new PBE-019