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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    yeah I actually felt the same way you did - it's an old pic and I forgot about that strap. I've since thrown on an ostrich strap but hadn't taken a new pic but this gave me a good excuse to take one. @rodeo bill backside isn't engraved or anything so it's still plain.
  2. 3 points
    I discovered LVC a couple of years ago, and have learnt so much from these pages - thank you all - that I thought I'd try to give something back. On a summer holiday with my family in Devon, England in 1966, when I was 12, my older sister said why don’t I spend my holiday money (£5), on a pair of Levi’s. I’d never heard of them, and she proceeded to tell me all about them, saying that they were made in America, were very desirable and I'd be really cool if I had a pair. I wasn't interested, especially as it would mean blowing my holiday money in one go, but she persisted and persuaded me to at least go with her and try a pair on. Looking back, I think I was her guinea-pig! Off we went to Exmouth, and found a Millets (an 'outdoor' chain which stocked Levi's). At this time 501's were simply known as Levi's - that's all we had available, the other styles starting to come over, at least to the south-west, later. So the shopkeeper measured me up and recommended W28 L36, explaining that they shrunk 2" in the waist and 4" in the leg. I duly tried them on and from then on life was never quite the same. We left the shop, with very little change, if any, from my fiver, with me wearing my new Levi's (with a belt on to hold them up), feeling fabulous, with the labels and my old (Mum-bought) jeans in a bag. I was awestruck by the stiffness and weight, by the two horse patch and the red tab, the smell, the ruggedness and toughness, and the image. They were like no other jeans, or clothes, I'd ever seen; something from another planet, and woke something up in me - a lifelong love of 501's and good denim. Also the beginnings of fashion-consciousness, I suppose. I took the ticket and flasher into school after the summer holidays, and showed the other kids - it turned out I was the first in our year to own Levi's. The labels got passed round and everyone was impressed. For a brief time I was the cool kid! That year, everyone seemed to be getting Levi's and Wranglers (the Wranglers - I had a pair - were amazing, too, but that's another story...), and a few Lee's. The girls all wore men's 501's and loved them. It was a while 'til women-specific's arrived. The patch had 502-0117 on them which I think was how the zip-fly version of the 501 was denoted. The only leg lengths available, at least in our area, were 34 and 36. I lived near Gloucester, where we had a Millets and also a gents' outfitter called Leslie Hull, next to the Odeon cinema. He had one wall of 501's, sorted into sizes; zip-fly in one section, button-fly in another. On the opposite wall were Wranglers, either in straight leg or tapered, and otherwise identical. He seemed to stock very little else - such was the demand, I suppose. What an Aladdin's cave. Oh, the smell! I was fascinated by the way they had a shape of their own, and wore them for ages before washing them, not wanting to spoil things. Again, it was my sister who persuaded me to wash them, reminding me that they were shrink-to-fit and that washing was an essential part of the process. We tucked any excess length inside - no-one wore turn-ups/cuffs on jeans then, apart from the skinheads (de rigeur) and some Mods, always very small cuffs. It was considered very uncool and a bit rustic. As the jeans shrank or you grew, you just let out a bit more length. This was the style. I needn't have worried - after they were washed they were even stiffer. The shrinkage was unbelievable - they almost bore no resemblance to the raw jeans. I'm sure the guy was right when he said 4" off the length, though I never bothered to measure anything. A lot of leg-twist, too. The two sides of the zip didn't line up any more - they were so buckled with the shrinkage. The solution was to do the zip up before buttoning the top button. We didn't have a washing machine so washing took place in the kitchen sink. The water was quite literally like ink - I could hardly see my hands, and had blue fingernails for a couple of days. Into the top-loading spin drier for rinsing, with the rinse water coming out blue, rinse after rinse. This was the case for the first several washes. No-one in those days was concerned with fussing over raw denim - the concept didn't seem to exist. We were aware of the 'sit in the bath and wear until dry' method, but being so bloody cold and wet here for so much of the time you could have waited months for an opportunity! The dye bled into the white weave and turned it a lovely deep blue. The kitchen looked like an explosion in a dye factory and my Mum freaked out. She must have been intrigued though - shortly after she wore nothing but one-wash 501's, from her mid-forties to when she died aged 85, often with a faded type 3 jacket. The denim was tough, thick and hairy, and very stiff. There was very much a hand-made feel to the jeans and they needed hard breaking in - they made you waddle when first put on after washing. Later on when my sister bought her own 501's, the kid next door, who worked on a building-site, offered to wear her jeans there to break them in. Levi's were jeans which you beat the hell out of and would still last forever, and which looked better for being faded and beaten up. And which by some alchemy had become a fashion item! They were very much considered to be work wear, and that's what we were told they were - that's how they were sold to us. We never thought of them as anything else - they just happened to look, and be, amazing. The 'flaws' in the weave, the varying stitching, the fact that everyone else's pair looked slightly different to yours reinforced this workwear vibe. It seemed like there was no effort at uniformity in production, which made them really special in our eyes - the aim was simply to make jeans that were extremely well-built and would last and last. When they were washed they fitted snugly round the bum. After wearing for a while, they'd stretch out and bag a bit. Eventually they'd settle down and were neither tight nor loose - perfect. This wash/wear/stretch/shrink and repeat process was the key to getting a lovely moulded fit - it didn't happen after just one wash. Every time I put them on, it was a Clark Kent/Superman moment. (It still feels like that today! I wear 47 and 76 LVC repro's, the 76's being the closer denim to my original 66's but with less shrinkage, less stiffness and less pronounced puckering. Still lovely denim, though. My 47's are fading nicely and showing a superb red cast. I've got my first LVC 66's on order, hopefully delivered before Cone runs out). My jeans had a very pronounced 'flaw' running all the way across the right lower leg, as if the loom had malfunctioned for a few passes. There was a similar defect running the whole width behind the left rear pocket. I loved these imperfections. The stitching was several shades of orange and yellow, and used to vary from pair to pair. I'm sure at least some of it was cotton - the arctuates were often partly worn off jeans, leaving a trail of dark blue behind. I vaguely remember a 501 ad. campaign saying 'Every Pair Is Different'. I could never quite understand why heavy denim work jeans, riveted and bar tacked, should have such a weak-seeming outer leg seam - where was the strength in that join, especially when compared with contemporary Wranglers - double-stitched inner and outer leg seams? But I guess they knew what they were doing, never a problem. The rivets were domed, not punch-through, and must have had a high copper content - they used to get covered in verdigris, but the domes stayed polished through wear. The back pockets were quite big - a tad bigger than the LVC 47's, and a very similar shape - maybe a bit more square. I can't remember how shallow or curved the arcs were. The zip had a number on it, which I can't remember. I never even looked for a number on the waist button. There was quite a lot of width to the selvage outer seam, so the 'train-tracks' were quite wide. The jeans shrank a bit more for the first several washes, but the dye loss became much less pronounced. We used to wash our jeans about once a week. Though beginning to be fashion conscious, we were still very active kids and needed to wash them! The dye seemed to pool in the crevices and creases and stay there. In the high wear areas, the denim would become bone-white - contrasty fades happened without even thinking about it. All the seams would pucker beautifully (all that shrinkage and twisting...), and create some lovely fade patterns - the 'peaks' would become bone-white, with the 'valleys' a lovely deep blue. Generally, they faded really fast, and the colour was really beautiful. Pretty soon, as I grew I got my second pair, W30 L36 and sold my 28's to a smaller friend. In my early twenties my sister gave me her (men's) 501's, as she didn't wear them any more. They were faded and still totally intact - even the paper patch and the arcs. They were W32 L36, and they fitted me perfectly, no turn-ups, like a W30 L32. The red cast of the denim dye was really apparent and was quite lovely. I hope this is of interest! All the best.
  3. 2 points
    The only problem with that theory is the L.V.C. did not exist when that particular pair were made, in roughly 1980 ->1982. Also, I have never seen any L.V.C. pairs with a selvedge belt loop, it's just not something that any pair of jeans from any era actually needs. It's even more unnecessary then selvedge in the coin pockets. The main reason for the posts was to show that in the various factories weird shit happened from time to time and there was really no rhyme or reason to any of it. On juke_kakui's instagram page he has many great examples of this kinda stuff including this on a pair of 517's...
  4. 2 points
    I always loved Eric Clapton's look with Cream in this BBC live performance. Great fit on his jeans (presumably 66 501s) but the shirt, jacket, and shoes all go together really well. Makes me think that it's possibly to wear loafers in a non-preppy way... and the short but uncuffed look on the jeans is great as well.
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    Are you Ed in disguise?!
  7. 2 points
    Several months in the wool has slightly pilled, nothing unexpected with boiled wool and given the texture it feels natural—it’s not distracting like you might find on some sweaters when the process happens. It feels like it’s “breaking in” a bit and isn’t so rigid. But I am babying it, so take this with that in mind. Might be able to see the texture better in the back shot.
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points
    Supima tee DS-J12TS LA6-DS P24A-S French military trainer Jacket replaced with American Eagles (no buy)
  10. 1 point
    @Maynard Friedman nice trabs... looking forward to the fit pics
  11. 1 point
    I sure have enjoyed your photos. From my understanding, industrial seamstress (sewing machinist/sewing machine operator) careers started at the apprenticeship level with the more basic tasks of assisting "cutters", and installing rivets & buttons and eventually progressing in ability to be trusted with fabricating belt loops and back pockets and cinches. These latter pieces were most likely made in quantity and staged in bins to be distributed as needed by the journeyman seamstresses who actually created the pants (and eventually the tasks became automated belt-loops and pocket setters). So it would be expected that there is much variation in the cut of these accessories even though there would have been a specific pattern identified by a #. From my experience in industrial settings, it was not surprising to see a quantity of a certain pattern or component made in such large numbers that when a new design was introduced (for example, a new model year) the previously sewn accessories (or manufactured components) would simply by incorporated in the new construction until they were gone. So the remaining 1954 back pocket would be found on a 1955 pant when the transition to a new pattern was first introduced. The various pocket characteristics you have included in your photos would be a great example not only of the worn out machinery described in someone's earlier post but also of the handiwork of multiple apprentices in the early stages of their craft attempting to become familiar with the fabric, cutters, folds, presses, etc. A difference between factories would be expected as a further result of the human element. It would even be expected to see differences in the handiwork between a day and night shift at the same factory since there is almost always a rivalry/competitive pride between the 2 or 3 shifts. The belt loop of selvedge probably has a similar story. A bulk order of selvedge belt loops was completed (lets say for an LVC line) but that particular one fell under a table and was misplaced or fell from the bin. It was later picked up and tossed in a bin of belt loops from projectile loom denim. I can remember as a kid with my brothers, going to the Army/Navy Surplus and a couple of Men's Shops to get my new STF for the upcoming school year. There was such limited uniformity in dimensions that we would pay almost no attention to the Waist & Inseam measurements on the tags but instead would just grab a stack of pants and start trying them on one after the other. Those that fit too big would be handed over to my older brothers and those that were to small to my younger. Us younger kids would get two pair of STF since we also had my older siblings "hand-me-downs" and my older brothers would get 3-4 pair. Anyway, the variations in the fit were so great that it would seldom result that even two of our pairs were tagged the same size. But as I think about it, the Army/Navy Surplus typically sold "Irregulars" so that might account for some of the variation. My guess is these Irregulars were the handiwork of newer machine operators who had not yet developed the skillset to produce consistency. It must have been something to work on the production floor of those factories and to hear the various machines hum away and the smell of cotton, dyes & machinery lubricants permeate the air...and probably having to scrub off the indigo from the hands at the end of shift. Anyway, great photos. You must have quite a collection.
  12. 1 point
    You’re probably fine with same size. There’s a zip along the back of the neck which works with my Alpine (but my Alpine is a size smaller, so it’s not a great pairing). I’m unfortunately not the best person to ask, because Acronym’s shells are usually too large for me, so the XS alpine is all I have to go by. Thanks @lxkhor! It’s unlike anything I’ve ever had in my wardrobe and I’ve enjoyed finding new things to mix and match with it.
  13. 1 point
    So, I was able to head to Japan and thanks to the great people at Flat Head I was able to experience some really cool stuff. Also thanks to @dudewuttheheck for giving me the idea in the first place. First, I saw Kobayashi-san (again) in Tokyo. Then, I headed to Nagano for a couple days and did two things I really wanted to do at some point in my life: eat at Googie's Cafe and snap some of the pics I've seen millions of times at the classic Flat Head spots. The food, unsurprisingly, was amazing. I got a weird pizza with apples on it and it was really sweet and delicious. This pic is in the front of the diner in Nagano, with Horriuchi-San who was kind enough to show me around for a couple hours. Then, I saw where they make all their small leather goods. It's honestly insane when you realize that its just a room or two, I guess I always kind of knew that but its still pretty shocking when you're actually there and see how small of an operation it is. I think the women there got a kick that I wanted to take a picture with them! And, lastly, I saw some of Kobayashi's cars, which were super cool. Definitely had a great time and can't wait to come back again. Didn't buy anything from Flat Head, but I did make one big purchase on the trip... Buco engineer boots (in the right size!)
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Fit pic of my newly acquired S409XXX M-WW2s. Shout out to @Flash, and my lady for convincing me to purchase them from him. Shipped them so fast I didn’t even have to pretend like I wasn’t impatient Thanks again mate... Worn with Eastman Lofgren type ii, Lofgren combat boots Have a little under an inch of room in the waist which is perfect by my standards. Slimmest pair I’ve worn in a couple years but I’m loving it. Look great with sneakers and have just enough leg opening for engineer boots Expect constant updates because these just ended my large rotation
  16. 1 point
    Teddy Girls, London, circa 1955 (Ken Russell).
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Been wearing my FBT's a lot recently. Work well with the tight hem on the PBJ's
  19. 1 point
    They're paired with the same size.
  20. 1 point
    I met Rio Ferdinand when I was like 12, now forever blowing bubbles.
  21. 1 point
    It's not even close to summer, But I just put the shrink on these *501 White Oak's so I'm wearing 'em. Taylor Stitch hat / Bobby Dong T / * see above / Off the wall canvas shoes @volvo240thebest pose for posterity purposes.
  22. 1 point
    Those fades made me like this mine is a one washed version. It's still fresh and rich of indigo, I was just taking this pic during a trip to a museum nearby several days ago.
  23. 1 point
    Here are the items I purchased while visiting CSF in Japan. I finally purchased the 1946 first half jeans and on features alone, these are my favorite in my collection. My collection now includes 1922, 1937, WWII SF, 1946 first half, and 1947. I am pretty happy with my collection, but may add the 1946 second half eventually or one of the other WWII models. If anyone is interested in some sort of more in depth comparison between all models, please let me know. I also picked up a 1946 jacket in the limited edition black denim and had an embroidery of a P-40 Warhawk put on it by the in house embroiderer. I know many don't like the limited edition denim colors, but I don't mind them so long as he keeps making the excellent repros. I went with this because I already have a blue denim jacket from him and can wear the black easier with my blue jeans (I do not like to wear double blue denim normally) and I sort of treated this as a souvenir jacket- it's sort of weird and unique and I love it. The embroidery work also really impressed me. I can also add some more shots of the actual visit if anyone wants. It was an amazing time.
  24. 1 point
    Bronson watch / Blanket lined Woolrich / Pointer Chore / Overcomer 051ss / Vans
  25. 1 point