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will try to, i do not wear shirts often at the office. at most 2/5 days...

I have a question:

Anyone got the general measurements for shirts worn untucked i.e. shirt length?

For example I believe TB1 shirts are about 30.5, which is the length I have my MTM shirts made to.

But if I am getting some OCBD MTM, how much should I cut down on the shirt length?

Typical way of wearing it would be with cardi open or buttoned and shirt untucked, and/or with a wool sweater.

Should I even consider this? I believe I read that BB1 bought this shirt that was the perfect length worn tucked/untucked. Understandably, this is very dependent on each respective body type.

Asking as I work in a casual business environment that only really requires a suit and tie to be worn 2 out of 5 days in a week. Days other than that I'd like to dress it down with a OCBD untucked and sleeves rolled, or some other SF approved aesthetic. Not trying to go all MC...

I don't want the shirt to be too long like streetwear. Is there such thing as the perfect balance between dressed up and disheveled.

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Black Fleece's Oxfords are a good, cheaper alternative to Thom Browne - you still get your little bits of ribbon, but in different spots.

Sizes seem to be one larger than TB (so a TB3 is a BB2).

just picked up some of these in the BB sale. thick fabric, made in usa, nice buttons. definitely a nice option for bigger guys. not as long as regular TB oxfords unfortunately, but have a nice rounded hem detail. would cop again (on sale)

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Yeah Muji fits tend to vary between releases.Sometimes they're boxy as hell, sometimes they're passably slim but still a little billowy. Their rather irregular release schedule means you'll never quite know what you'll get. Well for what they cost, you can probably afford to have them taken in by a tailor anyway. Between Uniqlo and Muji though (if you have access to both), go for the Uniqlo - the current fabrics are more substantial.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

ok, thread is headed in a dangerous direction of misinformation, so i will try to offer some additional input

anyway, here is a snap i took of my "traditional color" oxfords

blue, white, university stripe

(the fruity color oxfords are for another time)




uniqlo : for a lot of you guys, this is a "nice fit". somewhat shorter tails than your traditional oxford. i personally hate the short collar (looks childish to me) and the flimsy cotton

thom browne: very nice cloth. nice details and everything but the fit is only good if you are very skinny, because it curves in wayyy too much at the waist. wear these untucked or tucked

band of outsiders: we all know about these. basically cut like a little boy's shirt: short collar, short tail, slim. i hate these. good if you are like 125 lbs and under 5'7" or something

gitman vintage similar style/cut to BoO. fuck these guys. regular gitman (not the slim ones) is whatever

supreme: the short collars look silly to me. wierd fit, these are for untucking

naked and famous these have a slightly higher collar. very thick. maybe too thick. if you like wear your shirts as stiff and heavy as your jeans, well here you go.

land's end/LE canvas: does this look like styleforum to you? this shit is run by sears or whatever. buy if you are a peasant. perhaps the older made in usa ones are 'better', but i have no experience with those.

j. crew short tails, short tails, shitty cloth. i can't say it enough, but FUCK j. crew

rl custom fit: the slim fit on these is flattering, but still classic. don't like the collar roll on these. the collars on unlined older BB OCBDs are far superior i think. i feel that were are almost a good length for wearing untucked, but are a little on the longer side

vintage bb, unlined collar: you can't fuck with the unlined collar. strictly for the trad-est of trad-bros. "traditional fit, aka baggy" i wear these for my true 60s take-ivy stee. long tails for tucking in, for the most part.

brooks brothers extra slim: very slim after a couple of washes/hot dryer action. good if you are very skinny yet still want a little bit of breather room. not as slim as BoO and those other guys. it looks like the care tags on the botton shirt tails are on ALL newer BB shirts (black fleece and vintage bb shirts do not have these). looks best tucked in.

black fleece: excellent quality, thick, soft supima cotton, and nice mother of pearl buttons. these are usually short and can be worn untucked

mark mcnairy: almost perfect (in my opinion). another one for dudes who are into old vintage brooks brothers shirts("very traditional"). it is essentially a slimmed down version of a traditional BB shirt if that makes any sense. long tails for tucking in. thick and comfy cotton. only complaints are not using MOP buttons. i looked up the RN number on these and it turns out that these are made by the same people who make Brooks Brothers shirts. figures, coming from mark who i've read is obsessed with vintage bb OCBDs

there are too many details and intricacies to mention and discuss regarding OCBDs. probably best reserved for a blog post or something (maybe i should finally start one)

quite interesting post.


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  • 4 weeks later...

Wolf vs Goat B/D (before dinner shirt) too damn small in the waist for me but great everywhere else. Would like a little bit more room in the arm as well as the material creases easily when bending my elbow etc. Size Small in sig if anyone interested.

Uniqlo OCBD $15 this week: http://shop.uniqlo.com/uk/goods/069233#sizeSelect

Was wondering how accurate is the sizing...considering size XS. (5'10 @ 150lbs)

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Vampyrvargen, have you tried the Lands End tailored fit "hyde park" ocbd? Very thick cotton, great collar-roll, long in the body. A traditional fit.

Personally, I like Gant rugger "the hugger" ocbds, great relaxed fit and good collar. Not the best fabric however. All in all a good compromise.

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  • 10 months later...

Tailored gitman vintage. Dat collar roll. I hate being in-between sizes but the difference between medium and large is insane. Tried uniqlo and the collar is too small like vampy stated. I still have a bunch of rl custom fit's that I had slimmed in the waist that are nice. Theres a few bb extra slim fit oxfords I like but the quad-pleat at the cuff is hideous to me. I much prefer how RL or gitman do a double pleat at the cuff. Looks much neater.

Edited by Fycus
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I might get hate for this but my American Apparel oxford, though certainly not the best constructed, fits slim and the cloth feels much more substantial than other shirts I have owned. However, at 5' 10" and 145 lbs. shirts have rarely if ever fit me well. So I am biased towards the American Apparel xs which fits as well as a shirt ever has.

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^the aa oxford i have, the fabric is very flimsy. it's about as thin as a h&m dress shirt. i recently bought one from uniqlo that is quite hefty. compared to an earlier one that i bought (a slim cut with a cotton blend), it is a night and day difference.

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+1 to the Thom Browne oxfords.

Fabric is thick and it fits me overall perfect apart from the length.

I always tuck it in though, and use a Uniqlo OCBD on casual days.

Plan on picking up some more TB oxfords in the future.

Patrik Ervell oxfords are also pretty good.

Although the fabric is pretty lightweight, the fit has been great.

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I have a uniqlo oxford, my only complaint is that the back seems to puff out a bit too much for some reason, even though its pretty tight around the chest area for me, might just be the back of the shirt catching on my pants a bit though.

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Having now read through the whole thread, I have been rather uninformed on shirting in general due to poorly fitting, low quality shirts. The shirts I had purchased for me from childhood until I took over purchasing my own clothes were probably at least 1 inch too big in the neck every time, baggy as hell through the torso, and billowed out like sails. This is why I always gravitated towards shoes I guess. BUT having taken time to educate myself further on oxford shirting its just as interesting if not more so than shoes.

Much respect to those who continue to educate young guns like myself about the history of garments. I finally understand what collar roll is and why people obsess over it in oxford shirts.

Being in the Seattle area, I will check out the Brooks Brothers store downtown and their MTM, see if Blackbird gets Geller oxfords in, and see what I can find in Vancouver or Portland when I manage to make my trips out there. East Coast certainly has more shirting heritage and it doesn't seem like many/any people in my area care about the details of oxfords in the slightest.

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I'd say the price was warranted (cost about less than or equal to a basic Thom Browne sport shirt). Not something you'd buy multiples of at once. The type of product where you'd buy the odd one here and there throughout the years, which is why I hope these get continually made.

It's got a regular, full sized collar that rolls very sweetly.

Last button hole is horizontal too, which I thought was a nice little flourish.

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so i bought my first uniqlo oxford (this one, http://www.uniqlo.com/jp/store/goods/069233) in JP large (~a US medium) and it fits well everywhere but by god, it's really long. i'm a little of 6' so hardly short - what's up? it's just a regular model, not long. are these things not meant to be worn untucked? i always wear my oxfords untucked.. n shit.

other than that, really nice. for $20, or whatever it was, fabric feels really nice.

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