so, i'm having a pair of jeans made . . . .

[mizanation]

[EDIT]

due to popular demand, i have created a separate thread that has the available options for kuniyoshi-san's denim.

please go here to see this thread:

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?p=2569915

[ORIGINAL POST]

time for a new pair of jeans, but this time, i'm gonna have my boy kuniyoshi-san make them.

you might remember him from the DD+1 saga.

he is a master denim tailor who worked for years in a very famous denim factory in okayama, the mecca of japanese denim. in fact, he used to make jeans for some of our favorite japanese denim brands. after returning to his native okinawa, he opened up his own denim workshop. here, he makes the highest quality custom denim products on the island.

anyways, he can make any style of jeans with any type of custom detailing.

today, i went over to his workshop to tell him what i want.

here's what i'm getting:

1) denim: 14 oz, unsanforized, right-hand twill. the denim's weave is a reproduction of the original cone mills XX denim, which means the vertical weave is loose and the horizontal weave is tight. the yarns are rope-dyed and the indigo is extra dark.

2) zipper: vintage talon repro made by waldes. back in the day, there was a time when the famous talon zippers were manufactured in japan. one of the factories that made these talon zippers was the waldes company. waldes is now making reproductions of the original talon zippers using the same methods and materials. mass-produced YKK, these are not. the zippers are heavyweight and have an old-school feel when you zip them up. anyone who has zipped up a vintage talon zipper will know what i'm talking about. these waldes zippers are made to order.

3) zipper tape: 100% cotton zipper tape, selvage. zipper tape is the material that the zipper is attached to. usually, the zipper tape on jeans is made out of polyester, which means that it won't age as your denim ages. the zipper tape used by waldes is 100% cotton, so it will fade along with your denim. as an added bonus, the zipper tape has selvage running down both sides! so, it looks like you are zipping up a selvage zipper. crazy.

4) cut: regular vintage straight leg. i need some extra room for my large thighs.

5) pocket bags: heavyweight cotton, red and black plaid. i have a thing for red and black plaid.

6) hidden pocket rivets.

7) patch: leather

8) back pocket design: undecided. kuniyoshi-san can embroider any design on the back pocket. i still haven't decided what i am going to get and i am open for suggestions.

i will post pictures when finished.

[leftrightleft]

nice man.. i am sooo jealous

[stickshift]

How much is this pair gonna cost you?

[mizanation]

not sure yet, probably around 3 bones.

[fre-co]

Great stuff Miz, make sure you keep us all updated with lots of photos.

[chambo2008]

so miz would anyone be able to get this done or just residents of okinawa ?

[snuff_daddy]

nice man....

[MonkeyFresh]

1) denim: 14 oz, unsanforized, right-hand twill. the denim's weave is a reproduction of the original cone mills XX denim, which means the vertical weave is loose and the horizontal weave is tight. the yarns are rope-dyed and the indigo is extra dark.

2) zipper: vintage talon repro made by waldes. back in the day, there was a time when the famous talon zippers were manufactured in japan. one of the factories that made these talon zippers was the waldes company. waldes is now making reproductions of the original talon zippers using the same methods and materials. mass-produced YKK, these are not. the zippers are heavyweight and have an old-school feel when you zip them up. anyone who has zipped up a vintage talon zipper will know what i'm talking about. these waldes zippers are made to order.

3) zipper tape: 100% cotton zipper tape, selvage. zipper tape is the material that the zipper is attached to. usually, the zipper tape on jeans is made out of polyester, which means that it won't age as your denim ages. the zipper tape used by waldes is 100% cotton, so it will fade along with your denim. as an added bonus, the zipper tape has selvage running down both sides! so, it looks like you are zipping up a selvage zipper. crazy.

4) cut: regular vintage straight leg. i need some extra room for my large thighs.

5) pocket bags: heavyweight cotton, red and black plaid. i have a thing for red and black plaid.

6) hidden pocket rivets.

7) patch: leather

8) back pocket design: undecided. kuniyoshi-san can embroider any design on the back pocket. i still haven't decided what i am going to get and i am open for suggestions.

i will post pictures when finished.

wow, that sounds amazing, the whole jean will come out great for sure!

If you don't mind me asking, whats the price point for a pair like this?

Also, what kind of leather will be used for the patch? Nothing wrong with good old cow hide but something exotic would be cool

Def subscribed, keep us updated!

[mizanation]

so miz would anyone be able to get this done or just residents of okinawa ?

well, he wouldn't mind selling to people outside of japan, but he doesn't speak english and has no computer skills. i offered to help him out like i did for kamida-san. first, i gotta get my pair though.

wow, that sounds amazing, the whole jean will come out great for sure!

If you don't mind me asking, whats the price point for a pair like this?

Also, what kind of leather will be used for the patch? Nothing wrong with good old cow hide but something exotic would be cool

Def subscribed, keep us updated!

price will be around 3 hundred and change, i think, depending on the final details.

as for the patch, not really looking for something too exotic. he did offer ishigaki cowhide. ishigaki cows are raised on an island in okinawa and are considered some of the best beef in the world. many people like it more than kobe beef in japan. anyways, the leather is slightly pink.... i might go with that, afterall, i am in okinawa.

[tahonng]

miz — glad to have you posting again. Aren't you getting a free pair of Evisus, though?

Not planning on getting anything yet, just curious, does this guy handle denim jackets as well?

Don't know if this goes without saying, but — are you chainstitching the hem?

As for pocket designs — try your hand at designing a stylized trumpet.

[mizanation]

miz — glad to have you posting again. Aren't you getting a free pair of Evisus, though?

Not planning on getting anything yet, just curious, does this guy handle denim jackets as well?

Don't know if this goes without saying, but — are you chainstitching the hem?

As for pocket designs — try your hand at designing a stylized trumpet.

whatsup man. yeah, it's good to be back...

i *am* supposed to be getting a free pair of evisu's but i'm not sure when they will arrive and i NEED a new pair now....

kuniyoshi-san can make anything that is made out of denim--he makes denim jeans, jackets, hats, anything.... i'm actually gonna have him make a denim jacket next.

hmmm. a music-themed pocket design. very good..... let me marinade on that one...

[fre-co]

ishigaki leather sounds great.... man i feel like some yakiniku now.

[dralfonzo]

sounds amazing im very jealous. I would be tempted to leave the back pockets without a design, maybe get kuniyoshi-san to brand his name and the date he finished making the jeans onto the ishigaki leather patch, that would be a nice and simple was of personalizing them. The selvedge cotton zipper tape sounds great, i've not seen that before - is it just cotton herringbone with red selvedge?

sounds great anyway, would love to see pictures when they're finished.

[goat]

Miz

after the DD+1 adventure you put us through, i'm extremely anxious to see these

[Opie]

Left hand twill, natural indigo and zimbabwe cotton.. mhm.. What are his limitations?

And unbleached cotton, not to forget!

[who8mahrice]

Considering all the custom detailing on this pair, price seems alright. How long are we going to have to wait to see the product :-)?

[horriblyjollyjinx]

1) denim: 14 oz, unsanforized, right-hand twill. the denim's weave is a reproduction of the original cone mills XX denim, which means the vertical weave is loose and the horizontal weave is tight. the yarns are rope-dyed and the indigo is extra dark..

hope your jeans will be nice, but the above is not true as far as I know. Especially since it generalizes more than 50 years of Cone XX denim, it just can't be true. Characteristics changed through time.

I haven't seen any Cone denim with a loose warp though. Do you have pics of this denim?

[mrjuby]

mass-produced YKK, these are not.

i read this in yoda's voice.

really excited to see how this turns out!

[raWorkshop]

Sounds great. Anymore pics of the workshop? And what's this DD+1 business?

[Charlie Delta]

Lurk MOAR!

[Orion]

Miz-

How would he feel about you taking photos of the process? I'm probably not the only one who would be stoked to see them being built. Good thread, subscribed.

[ringring]

Miz-

How would he feel about you taking photos of the process? I'm probably not the only one who would be stoked to see them being built. Good thread, subscribed.

Second that motion.

Miz, as ever, you are cool.

[mr.invincible]

^ third that motion.

[mizanation]

Second that motion.

Miz, as ever, you are cool.

RINGRING! man, it's so good to see you! things are good over here in japan. hope everything is going well for you, brother.

it actually didn't occur to me to take pictures of the process, but now i will.

[mizanation]

tomorrow, i will head to kuniyoshi-san's workshop and take pictures.

[benzak]

cool man! it is quite unique that an atelier only makes 1 pair for someone..

does kuniyoshi have big clients? or does he only produce private label/own brand?

[edmond]

hey miz can you have him make me a pair too?

[fre-co]

hey miz can you have him make me a pair too?

haha, I wondered how long it would take for you to pop up eddie....

[edmond]

hahahahahaha

[mizanation]

cool man! it is quite unique that an atelier only makes 1 pair for someone..

does kuniyoshi have big clients? or does he only produce private label/own brand?

kuniyoshi-san does have his own brand, but a lot of his work is making jeans for other brands. also, he does quite a lot of custom work for individual denim enthusiasts.

demonito--yeah, he can make you a pair. let me know what you want and we can make it happen.