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Why the high waists on Japanese selvage denim?


minya

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I've been looking at a lot of Japanese brands lately, especially ones that look like they have really high quality denim -- Samurai, Eternal, etc. (just browsing Rakuten and such) and although the denim is gorgeous many of the cuts have an awfully high rise. I realize that a lot of this is probably because most Japanese denim bands are absolute faithful to oldschool Levis, but don't many people find high rises irritating?

I certainly do not wear my jeans or my pants around my ass, but I wear them around my hips, so lower than they are intended to go, I guess. I'm pleased with the rise on my Nudie Regular Ralfs (which is... 10" I think? either way it's a 4-button fly including the top button) but I wouldn't mind even one button lower.

I just ordered a pair of European Edwin ED-47 (the rainbow selvage ones), which looks great and looks reasonably low-rise.

What do you guys think? Anyone else hate high rises like me?

Edited by minya on Jul 31, 2005 at 12:49 AM

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i much prefer a 501-style higher rise...they look better when worn sagged / worn at the hips and don't suck to your bum like a low rise does...

--- Original message by rhythmandsound on Jul 31, 2005 12:24 PM

Word, sagging is essential. I probably wouldnt be into raw denim at all if I didnt sag my shit. 501s and supreme raw. preme is on point with the high rise, because when you sag them they look perfect, but your crack isnt showing like some fuckin dior homos

Looky here, it's just the way the cookie tear. Prepare to get hurt and mangled like Kurt Angle, rookie year.

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I can't stand high rise jeans! I wear my shit like 3 inches below my belly button and if I'm wearing high rise jeans it looks like i took a big shit in my pants.

Low rise let my rock where I do normally without all that extra material looking strait boo boo.

--- Original message by TragicBliss on Jul 31, 2005 11:44 PM

Exactly how I feel. icon_smile.gif

Tragic, what's your favorite Nudie cut? Of all the brands I've tried on so far Nudie is, by 100 times, my favorite.

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I've been looking at a lot of Japanese brands lately, especially ones that look like they have really high quality denim -- Samurai, Eternal, etc. (just browsing Rakuten and such) and although the denim is gorgeous many of the cuts have an awfully high rise. I realize that a lot of this is probably because most Japanese denim bands are absolute faithful to oldschool Levis, but don't many people find high rises irritating?

I certainly do not wear my jeans or my pants around my ass, but I wear them around my hips, so lower than they are intended to go, I guess. I'm pleased with the rise on my Nudie Regular Ralfs (which is... 10" I think? either way it's a 4-button fly including the top button) but I wouldn't mind even one button lower.

I just ordered a pair of European Edwin ED-47 (the rainbow selvage ones), which looks great and looks reasonably low-rise.

What do you guys think? Anyone else hate high rises like me?

Edited by minya on Jul 31, 2005 at 12:49 AM

--- Original message by minya on Jul 31, 2005 12:35 AM

MOST OF THEM ARNT "HIGH RISE" THEY ARE REGULAR RISE AND PROPORTIONED TO FIT A MANS BODY. I THINK MOST SHORTER RISE JEANS (ACCEPT APC) MAKE YOUR CROTCH LOOK SQUATY AND FEMININE.... BUT BUY WHAT YOU LIKE, ITS JUST MY OPINION.

THE J STITCH LENGTH / AMOUNT OF BUTTONS SHOULD BE PROPORTIONATE WITH THE OVERALL MEASUREMENT OF THE FRONT RISE (FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE WAISTBAND TO THE CROTCHPOINT.) THE GENERAL RULES IS THAT YOU SHOULD NEVER SEE THE BOTTOM OF THE J-STITCH(THE STITCHING BELOW THE J STITCH) WHEN YOU HAVE JEAN ON FROM THE FRONT. THE PROPER J STITCH LENGTH IS KEY IN A GOOD FIT. ALOT OF JEANS HAVE SIMILAR OVERALL RISE MEASUREMENTS, YET THE PROPORTION TO THE J-STITCH IS BAD. SHORT J STITCH DOES NOT MEAN LOW RISE. LEVIS 1947 501 IS ABOUT 1O INCHES IN THE FRONT RISE AND 14 INCHES IN THE BACK WITH A 7 3/4" LONG J STITCH. IVE SEEN PDC AND OTHER BRANDS WITH 9 INCH FRONT RISES AND LIKE A 5 INCH J STITCH WHICH LOOKS AWFUL. ALOT OF TIMES THE BACK RISE MEASUREMENT AFFECTS THE FIT ALOT MORE.

NO MATTER HOW SHORT OR LONG A FRONT RISE IS, A GOOD FITTING JEAN SHOULD "WRAP" IN THE FRONT AND SADDLE IN THE BACK. A GOOD FITTING JEAN WILL SADDLE. YOU CAN GENERALLY TELL WHEN A JEAN Y SADDLE WELL BY FOLDING THE JEAN IN HALF AND LOOKING AT THE REAR RISE SHAPE. A GOOD FITTING JEAN, NO MATTER WHAT RISE LENGTH, WILL HAVE AN ALMOST PERFECTLY STRAIGHT SHAPE WITH LITTLE OR NO CURVE. ALOT OF JEANS (LIKE PAPER ETC) IS ARE PROPORTIONED WELL.. I THINK MAKES GUYS LOOK TOO FEMININE. APC FOR EXAMPLE, EVEN THOUGH IS SIMILAR IN OVERALL RISE LENGTH, LOOKS MORE MASCULINE BECAUSE THE J STITCH IS LONGER.

ANYONE ELSE AGREE- DISAGREE?

sweet-orr

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I agree for the most part. You can see the bottom of the J stitch on Apc jeans and a lot of other designer denims, but I don't mind it. I totally agree with you about most low or mid rise jeans being too feminine on a man. This doesn't really bother me from looking at the jeans, but the jean is usually too feminine FITTING if you know what I mean (Diesel O' Leg comes to mind!) Another important aspect to the feminine look to the jean is the width of the J stitch relative to the fly. A thin J Stitch looks pretty bad altogether and is sort of a long and thin phalic symbol.

Carpe Denim!

1112885282366_selvage1_edited.JPG

Edited by Serge d Nimes on Aug 2, 2005 at 09:33 PM

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  • 5 months later...
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what, you mean you cant buy those at jake's?

--- Original message by horriblyjollyjinx on Aug 4, 2005 04:54 AM

Why did you bump this thread?

In any case, talk about changing tastes -- now I actually prefer the 11" rise of my Japanese repros.

I sold those Edwins awhile ago, actually.

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Low rise jeans are a fad I think. I am pretty sure I don't want to spend 200+ bones on a fad because as soon as you got them broke in...fad over. I think that is why all the high end repros are 501 LEVIS repros. You just can't go wrong with a style that's so embedded in our culture. Low rise jeans look so terrible on me, I had a pair of those Iconic straights by levis which have a very low rise and to honest (not to brag) but they looked pretty vulgar in the crotch area. I ain't trying to attract that kind of attention.

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i mean, when i was in japan a few years ago, everyone was wearing super tapered jeans with gigantic white hi tops ala robert smith disintergration era, but tapered jeans are coming back according to many people on this forum, so maybe i should break my big ass elesse shoes out.

tons of stuff for sale now on ebay: corpus, Rag & Bone, Helmut Lang, levi's premium, Gap, vintage etc.

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZtriggerkid

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Low rise jeans are a fad I think. I am pretty sure I don't want to spend 200+ bones on a fad because as soon as you got them broke in...fad over. I think that is why all the high end repros are 501 LEVIS repros. You just can't go wrong with a style that's so embedded in our culture. Low rise jeans look so terrible on me, I had a pair of those Iconic straights by levis which have a very low rise and to honest (not to brag) but they looked pretty vulgar in the crotch area. I ain't trying to attract that kind of attention.

--- Original message by damnIam on Jan 19, 2006 10:46 AM

Well, I have an armadillo in my trousers, too, but you don't see me bragging about it on an internet forum, no sir. No way am I looking for attention. Nope.

Oh, wait, it's a cucumber wrapped in tinfoil. Never mind.

ask a cassowary

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Sweetorr, excellent point. Living with a woman who graduated FIDM, we have these ongoing discussions about clothes. On low-rise jeans, we agree that there is definitely something feminine about the way the cut presents. My girlfriend explained the j-stitch to me the last time we had this conversation. Sweetorr, what you say is correct and one more thing to consider as one tracks the whole denim thing. Nice post.

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