so bored of slubby and streaky denim

[Louis]

makes you a BITCH. and my 103's 21oz. mihgt i add are not slubby at all.

[salaami]

I think the slub gives denim a more rugged macho feel.

Unslubby denim is more refined. I think this is more suited for slimmer denim.

i agree with the rugged,machismo aspect of slubbier denim. thats why i fell in love with it in the first-place. but im actually in the market for a semi-slim slubby pair, like the oni blue, or the sammy 710. without slubs, the denim is not as interesting. maybe slubs are an aquired taste, but for me, they add character.and i love rouge knots, and any other "phenomena" that occur when weaving my denim. yeah, i said it.

[PG2G]

I'm a fan of the slub. I find that I'm attracted to fabrics that feel interesting, be it waxed cotton, slubby denim, or whatever else you can think of. Either way, its a niche in my collection that I now consider filled (even tho things may tempt).

I can definitely see how extreme slub (i.e. PBJ AI-001, Oni Shoai, KMW AWA, Eternal) is a love it or hate it deal though.

[erbs]

Sugarcane stopping production of repros? Isn't that heresy or something? Anyway, I prefer a denim with a few slubs, but not overboard; s5000 denim is about right for me. And yes, Hegel sounds about right. Or Aquinas' thinking on evil, which has no definite identity in itself but is merely a privation (lack) of the good. But that's neither here nor there...

[Cameland]

i can vouch for liking the tighter weaved less slubby denims, when i got my sams and could actually touch the fabric i was just like thinking that they wernt even jeans, just felt so different. When i recieved my flatheads though they were real nice, dark and weaved real tight.

[Tenchi]

Aye....over slubbyness. Thats why I like my RRDS. Seriously.

[cultpop 0217]

i know this thread is about how HJJ doesn't like slubby/streaky jeans, but i just thought i would put it out there that if slubbiness like the AI PBJs did not exist, someone would have to invent it-------------just to represent the extreme end of the spectrum.

we have uber-slubby jeans that HJJ hates so that HJJ can appreciate more "regular" jeans;hate it if you must, sir, but nevertheless, be grateful for the foil that it provides

excellent. and i do see it as being one extreme but honestly if i had to choose (thankfully i don't) i prefer smoother denim (ala apc or skulls 6x6). i do love pbjs and i also like stuff with a little vertical streakiness (julian red's no wash denim) but stuff like the super streaky svens look odd and kinda gimmicky. i also think you can have slubby without streaky. ok im off now.

doesnt broken twill just mean no set direction of weave??!

broken twill (like your wranglers) is a zigzag pattern. the denim goes in both directions. it was originally utilized for comfort and strength (for cowboys) and to minimize the now coveted phenom of the leg twist. when the fibers would shrink and pull they would do so in both directions equally. it can also produce very nice subtle fade patterns.

[veefer]

slub is here to stay.

sorry.

[Dick Danger]

slub is here to stay.

Give it a week, you'll jump on the next wagon soon enough.

[bonanz]

nice with the slur...

[Heartworm]

To those commenting on Sugarcane's fits..

Just so you know.. They're stopping production on all their repro cuts this year.

They're releasing a whole new line, starting with three cuts.

A bootcut.. A Straightleg.. And the Self Edge x Sugarcane slim jeans...

To make this post more relevant to the thread.. I too am not very fond of ultra-slubby denim. My favorite two denims are Iron Hearts Indigo Selvedge and Flat Head's 3XXX denim.

PLEASE tell them to make a 36" inseam... It sucks that us tall dudes can't wear Sugarcane.

[Heartworm]

the denim on these deadstock wranglers is nuts.. the weave is almost dobby.. well odd.

very iregular.. but i havent worn them so not sure what the indigo side looks like worn down a bit yet. reminds me of action man clothes.

Actually, the new 13 mwz's are like that as well.

[moykky]

I don't like too slubby either and the point that "slubbiness" makes something special or good doesn't fit to my Skull...

Nicest denim I own is in Fullcounts. I've never had any 30's jeans nor seen ones in nature but I had many vintage levis in 80's and those Fullcounts are pretty close to that feel...

[rh3522]

what is slub??????? everyone talks about it but no one has yet 2 explain it or show pictures!!!

[LaiShin]

you want to know why the term "slubby" isn't explained in all of 3 pages?

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=13111

the encyclopedia is stickied for a reason.

[deadpan]

^^ WTF? Go and give your address to the guy playing wii tennis. now.

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=13111

[synthi]

When I was newer to these things, uber slubby denim was so unusual looking that it was the appeal in itself. The texture looked so alluring. I say with no ego that I was probably one of the first to acquire a pair of slubby jeans in the Samurai AI001 510XX and they still evoke a wow factor from me, but ultimately my tastes have matured to denim with moderate texture. The denim on Jomons and the Sammy S0500xx are just about perfect to me. That said, the feel of the denim on say a pair of Duckdiggers does give fidgety hands something to stroke when doing mundane things

[viv1984viv]

The future crashed last time i tryed to post *sigh*

You alllll know im a convicted slubfeind now, one thing I like about it is that it creates another texture to work with, and I really like mixing different fabrics and textures. I think its pretty cool for my jeans to have some texture to them if im just wearing a white shirt or tee on top - know?

However, my old Howies selvedge are what prompted me to find this place, and what I adored about them was how deeply dyed and dark they were and also how tight the warps were, very tightly woven denim, similar to my sc40500s, er, but dark. MMmmmmmm maybe I prefer striation to slub?...

Variety is the spice of life.... and to quote "brandon 0809b"

"there a million variables to denim that will never let anyone question be answeared, denim, the fabric of our lives"

So now I cant help but feel I ought to have some super dark tightly woven jeans.

HJJ - Care to mention the brands that have your favourite fabric ( i.e. tight weave, very dark, deep dye ).... im guessing SDA? full count?

[Largo]

I'd be interested in that list as well, just because I'm sort of perversely curious as to your preferences. If I'm to take your initial post as evidence, you're primarily interested in the more ah, 'exclusive' brands preferred here in their status as raw, authentically cut repros, right? So a high quality non-slubby jean with a different cut like, for instance 5ep wouldn't 'cut the mustard', I take it?

[viv1984viv]

Correct me if im wrong ( ha, like i need to ask ) but im sure HJJ holds historical accuracy very much high on the list, and this could well be why he loves a tight, even weave.....

[PG2G]

When I was newer to these things, uber slubby denim was so unusual looking that it was the appeal in itself. The texture looked so alluring. I say with no ego that I was probably one of the first to acquire a pair of slubby jeans in the Samurai AI001 510XX and they still evoke a wow factor from me, but ultimately my tastes have matured to denim with moderate texture. The denim on Jomons and the Sammy S0500xx are just about perfect to me. That said, the feel of the denim on say a pair of Duckdiggers does give fidgety hands something to stroke when doing mundane things

Let go of those 510XX then Nice to know about the Jomons, my sorahikos are probably the smoothest jeans I've ever touched.

[tweeds]

i think one unfortunate outcome of the slub-fest has been the soundless fall of studio d'artisan. their jeans may not have the attractiveness of a pair of PBJs, or the quick falling of the samurais, but it's a pity there aren't half as many SD-103s walking around as there are XX-005s or FH 3001s.

[poly800rock]

i think one unfortunate outcome of the slub-fest has been the soundless fall of studio d'artisan. their jeans may not have the attractiveness of a pair of PBJs, or the quick falling of the samurais, but it's a pity there aren't half as many SD-103s walking around as there are XX-005s or FH 3001s.

i was wearing my sda 103's yesterday and remembered how much i liked that fit.

[cheep]

my 0500s have the max slub i could take. i like both sluby and smooth denim, but it has to be a nice tight weave.

the LHT on the 45 canes is really about perfect. amazing denim, and once worn in its probably the softest hand feel of any fabric ive felt.

[synthi]

Let go of those 510XX then Nice to know about the Jomons, my sorahikos are probably the smoothest jeans I've ever touched.

hehe if I let them go I'll let you know

i think one unfortunate outcome of the slub-fest has been the soundless fall of studio d'artisan.

I share your sentiment there TIP but they do do slubby, here are a couple of close up shots of their D-1237's which rival Duckdigger's in the slub stakes.

the LHT on the 45 canes is really about perfect. amazing denim, and once worn in its probably the softest hand feel of any fabric ive felt.

You just reminded me that probably the most sublime balance of smoothness, slub and striation is the natural indigo 40400N Hawaii Canes. And the Lee Ryukyuai 40300N's aren't far behind. Nice to hear the lefty denim has a soft hand

[tweeds]

synthi: i take my words back, that's good looking stuff from SDA there. still, the brand has really gone quite unnoticed on the boards for a few months now.

also, the ryukyuai SC40300 are on my "one day i will have you" list for precisely the same reasons you mentioned--texture and striations. alongside them in the list are the SC40301 mud-dyes.

[Miles]

synthi: i take my words back, that's good looking stuff from SDA there. still, the brand has really gone quite unnoticed on the boards for a few months now.

I've been wearing mine daily for 5 months now, and I'll tell you, I found these things insanely stubborn to break in. And rather than boring the masses with a barrage of pictures that don't show off wear, I've decided to wait until I have something truly beautiful to share. Then we'll get some people jumping on the SDA wagon.

[tangerine]

I agree with HJJ, I prefer the more subtle qualities of the denim in SD-103, Full Count 1108 and 45rpm Sorahiko.

That said, Eternal 811 and Flat Head 3003, which both have a rough hand to them, are two of my favorites as well.

[anders]

I bought a pair of SD-003's when I went to Japan in March so they never fell off for me, but I do agree that there hasn't been much talk about them. Maybe we should keep it that way so we can be an exclusive pig club

I bought the sd-003 for the fit and a pair of s0500xx for the denim. At first I didn't like the SDA denim (10X or 00X) but I am beginning to appreciating the very regular tight dark weave of the sd-003. I haven't soaked or worn the 0500 yet so we'll see how I feel about those when I start wearing them.

[horriblyjollyjinx]

So now I cant help but feel I ought to have some super dark tightly woven jeans.

HJJ - Care to mention the brands that have your favourite fabric ( i.e. tight weave, very dark, deep dye ).... im guessing SDA? full count?

First I want to say that I definitely don't mean that slubby denim is bad or inferior, and I'm not trying to nor do I want to start a new bandwagon, for tightly woven denim, I'm just sharing my thoughts and want to hear what others think.

Remember that this is just my opinion and that you NEVER have to justify your opinion or your purchases.

Out of the jeans I own, I guess the denim in the SD103 fits the bill the best. The denim is very dark when new, probably the darkest of all my jeans, from memory. I remember them looking pitch black, except when compared side by side to something black.

The weave is also quite uniform with just a few irregularities, which looks authentic. The texture after 5 months of wear is also nice. I want to have a texture that looks a little grainy.

I think the reason why SDA isn't more popular is because the brand is simply boring. The only new stuff they make is over the top in some way(except the XMAS editions which are pimpin). I also don't really like the cuts, the only cut I like is the SD101 but my 3003 seem like a better fit.

The X03 cut is unproportional, the seat is too tight and the (back)rise is too low, in proportion to the legs, at least the way they fit me.

I want to see a 66 cut, then I will buy another pair of SDA and love them.

SDA's jeans, while good quality, are boring. The only thing that I like about them is the patch and of course the denim. Their printed tees are like the best things I've seen in my life, but the jeans are boring.

I have not found the perfect denim for me, but I am looking at FOB, Denime 66XX and some Warehouses. I will probably by all three, in time.

Also UES looks nice, but I think it's more because the jeans all have 2+ years put into them, rather than the denim being something special. http://ues.co.jp/faceofdenim/faceofdenim013.htm

Fullcount doesn't seem to have all that dark denim. I tried on a pair of 1108s with a ~4 months wear and a wash and they were definitely nice, but they aren't at the top of my list. Ideally, though, I'd like to have a few pairs of Fullcount.

Eternal has good color but they are a little too slubby, but I am going to get a pair anyway, some day. btw check this http://www.indigofan.com/indigofan/2007/04/grin.html

As it looks right now, I'll be wearing a pair of Fob151 or Denime 66XX or Tokyo from November. I would love to have a pair of Denimes with 2 years of everyday wear in them.

It is important to note that you can't really judge denim before you've really broken it in, a lot of things will happen with the texture. The SD103 denim will probably look very vintage-like after 1-2 years.

I'd be interested in that list as well, just because I'm sort of perversely curious as to your preferences. If I'm to take your initial post as evidence, you're primarily interested in the more ah, 'exclusive' brands preferred here in their status as raw, authentically cut repros, right? So a high quality non-slubby jean with a different cut like, for instance 5ep wouldn't 'cut the mustard', I take it?

I don't really like 5ep because of some of the details and because the denim is coated and the color doesn't look that nice to me, from pictures.

Some say that the 5ep is of high quality because they take a long time to fade, but that's artificial in my opinion. I don't hold it as higher quality than any jap brand, and I don't really hold any jap brand as superior to another jap brand, it's about the same quality with a different twist and different details.

Just pick the pair that does it for you, it will be the best.