What defines "high quality denim"

[sohoADDICT]

The phrase "high quality" is thrown around often, so I'm wondering how people define it. Obviously I have an idea of what it entails (such as the denim being durable), but I am just curious to see other members' thoughts. It seems to me through looking at posts in the short time that I've been here that people have a tendency to stick the word "quality" on a pair of jeans just because they're expensive, and discount another brand that is cheaper (even if it is just as good).

Opinions?

[zehero]

It seems to me through looking at posts in the short time that I've been here that people have a tendency to stick the word "quality" on a pair of jeans just because they're expensive, and discount another brand that is cheaper (even if it is just as good).

Opinions?

define "just as good". it means different things for different people. denim, fit, authenticity, hardware. whatever.

also: search button.

my first time using the "usethesearchbutton" comment. =DDDDDDDDDDDDDD

[sohoADDICT]

define "just as good". it means different things for different people. denim, fit, authenticity, hardware. whatever.

also: search button.

my first time using the "usethesearchbutton" comment. =DDDDDDDDDDDDDD

how can "denim" mean quality, I'm talking about the quality OF denim. Also, of course I'm not factoring authenticity, I figured that was a given.

As for fit, thats a complately subjective thing (ie i could hate some skinny jeans because i dont like my jeans tight, but someone could love the fit). I'm talking about something that is not as debatable...

[shekki]

if it has a squiggle, big H, or big R on the 2 back pockets it is of the highest quality one can buy.

[sidneylo]

RIGHT HAND TWILL guys... c'mon.

[roundhouse]

tight shuttle loom weave? and good dyeing process

[nairb49]

I thought it was price?

[white_giraffe]

no, definitely inseam length.

[willy p]

i thought it was the number of teeth on the zipper?

[prima]

biggest, loudest back pocket design

[magus1234]

quality is a lie. At the end of the day there is some POS unwearavble cheap shit thats not worth buying, and then theres some stuff that might fall apart after long usage then theres some shit that will last you long. Of course some jeans take longer to make or are "raw" but whatever, your prolly paying more for exclusivity and brand name plus its coolness level( current demand in the market).

I see ppl ranting about how well this raw jean ismade andhow well that raw jean is made, wahtever.... When alot of ppl tend to wear them HARD for a long time it kinda kills the lifespan. I wear predistressed jeans that will last me just as long, I baught a pair of PRPS pintuck lightwash for 325 dollars. 325 dollars!! Dope ass jeans, but Im not paying for quality, cause a pair of old 575's have lasted very well for the wear ive put in them.

Just get what you want cause of how it looks, if the "quality" is a little shittier just take better care.

[Servo2000]

"Quality" is an excuse people use on this forum to justify overpaying for expensive denim.

Get over yourselves. I have little doubt that more than maybe 1% of this forum, if that, wears their "high quality" denim hard enough to warrant the fact that maybe it will last them a little longer. At the rate they wear them out, they'd get better bang for their buck out of $20 STF. You could buy a lifetime supply for a couple hundred dollars.

Just admit to yourself that you're buying it because it's cool / different / looks great, whatever, because those are actually true and are just as valid reason.

Of course, in my opinion.

[aubrgene]

My Iron Heart 634 S jeans. It's high quality all the way! It's on my top 3 list.

[Dex_star]

i buy it because it's cool / different / looks great, whatever, because those are actually true and are just as valid reason.

[i andrew]

quality of denim is judged on it's ability to be turned into supershort denim shorts.

duh

[soraanaam]

quality of denim is judged on it's ability to be turned into supershort denim shorts.

duh

okey dokey

[tweeds]

when i buy a jean

half the decision is made by the fit of the jeans--i like mine slim-ish or skinny

hence i have the apc new standard and skull 5010xx

the other half is a mix of things:

quality--and part of this is how well it lasts

i've never touched nudies or sammies because i see all these holes popping up that i don't see with (arguably?) equally hard wear on sugar canes, SDA, skull, etc. it's definitely just an opinion on my part, but i have an expectation of the jeans that i buy

apart from its toughness, there's also things like the dyework:

the "structure denim" and the depth of the eternal dye is why i bought my 811, likewise i've long had my eye on a pair of okinawas because of their unique natural dyes.

other things might matter to others, like denim weight--and that's why some people like 17/19oz. sammies or 21oz. ironhearts. i don't claim to speak for them because the climate here isn't hospitable to heavyweight denim so i don't have a pair.

of course "quality" is also a convenient term for "exclusivity" for some, and i'm sure there are other reasons that may be passed off under the "quality" banner. and then whether this attention to detail warrants the price--that's another question.

but that's how i make my jeans decisions.

[knucks]

I thought it was hype?

[poly800rock]

you all are morons. ddml has the answer.

im in ur ultrapremium jeans

givin u whiskers!!!1!

[edmond]

for me as long as its samurai or skulls i consider them high quality denim ... period!

[bruised]

construction and attention to detail and materials used.

top on my collection are my sorahinko's. tough as shit. sami's next then lvc '47's

[indigo_junkie]

"high quality" is what selvage snobs use as an excuse for shelling out 3+ bills for a pair of cotton woven workpants. I should know, I used to be one, until I got myself a pair of STF for fun. They're a great jean. Well made, long lasting, nice fit. Not the best hardware (those shitty tin buttons annoy me to no end) I haven't washed them yet, so no idea of contrast or fade, but they feel good.

For me, regardless of price, if it feels good, then it's "high quality." what may be good for me, may not be good for everyone else. Some may look at the blown crotches of all those sammies out there and question the strength of the denim (quality) , but if it feels good to wear, who cares? If a super dense ring loomed, hand woven, super duper ELS cotton, dyed 100 times in indigo fermented in the vagina of a supermodel, hand sewn together by the guy who did Elvis's jumpsuits, with solid platnum rivets and diamond studded buttons cost you $10K, but you hated wearing them because they feel like shit. Would you think they're high quality?

[tweeds]

also a note: what is "3+ bills" in the states is not the same elsewhere. for me, a pair of STF is slightly over a 100 sgd, whereas skulls are 250sgd. there are no GAP or Levi's outlets here, so retail prices are pretty much it. in such situations i'd be willing to pay the premium because the entry-level stuff isn't cheap either.

indigo junkie--fair point! i haven't put on a pair of sammies myself so i can't attest to that comfort factor.

vagina-fermented indigo is a little too hardcore for me though...nasty :eek:

to date i haven't been able to rationalise a pair of ultra-premium natural indigo, super slubby jeans (to be honest slub does nothing for my erection) either, so i suppose i have my limits...no 45rpm yet.

[indigo_junkie]

well 3 AUD bills is like 2.4 US bills, but do you kind of get where I'm getting at?

The entry level stuff in Australia is pretty crappy (I don't get out much, so I don't know) the stuff one level up is not that much cheaper than any premium stuff I could mail over. If I had to hear one more sales person pipe in with "ksubi" when I ask for premium denim, I would have jumped off the sanity boat.

no 45rpm for me either. Was actually saving up for a pair of sorahikos, before the sexihos dropped. ended up getting them instead. we'll see how legendary they really are in about 5 days, hehe (while rubbing hands maniacally).

I got my STFs via ebay for the princely sum of $43AUD. Personally, I think it kills the jeans that Levis stock here in Australia (though I haven't seen the 538 here at all, and no ones seemed to have even heard about them, even though there are billboards for the dam things everywhere).

[indigo_junkie]

to date i haven't been able to rationalise a pair of ultra-premium natural indigo, super slubby jeans (to be honest slub does nothing for my erection) either, so i suppose i have my limits...no 45rpm yet.

I got my one pair of super slubby jeans (Eternal 868). I didn't freak out and go "OMG I have to GET THOSE!" when the Oni Shoais and KMW AWAs came out. There wasn't any way on this good green earth I was going to shell out 8AUD bills for something that didn't really do it for me. I bought the Eternals because I could get them for a good price and I was curious. I was impressed, but not "this is the jean for me for life" impressed. I wear them every now and then for variety, but my everyday jean is my Imperial Dukes and Ande Whalls.

[viv1984viv]

interesting thread - who'd a thunk it?!?!

TIP - the 868s do look special, from a distance people could make out the texture of the jeans..... but its not like they care. I think everyone should own some satokibis, they are my favourite jeans by far ( mine are edo ais, the construction is amazing the finishing touches so nice -lined pockets, presentation bag and whatnot , and the fabric is incredible... id buy hawaiis too! ) .... I own the s5000bk, pbj005, eternal 868s, new standards too and the satokibis are head and shoulders above em.

Ive not heard a bad word against canes, as for the superjeans like the shoais - maybe not worth everypenny but I guess with everything its the trend of diminishing returns..... I dont know what the construction is like but id guess its very similar the the cheaper jeans in the range but with thicker threads and more "nice" touches. Sorry to keep banging on about canes but their Natural denim is VALUE - in juxtaposition with samurais, onis, pbj, kmw....... and they use a specific type of indigo... so you can chose with strain of plant...mmmm.

Also - I think samurai are very over rated, there prices are pretty steep in comparison with other brands too, they are nice but not amazing..... but they have character.

Slub is not the be all and end all, but I am a sucker for it, unfortunately slub can fade, my pbjs used to be so hairy and knobbly on the thighs, now the slub has been worn smooth and although there is a speckled fading thing going on the texture of the slub has gone.

[napoleon]

I got my one pair of super slubby jeans (Eternal 868). ... I was impressed, but not "this is the jean for me for life" impressed. I wear them every now and then for variety, but my everyday jean is my Imperial Dukes and Ande Whalls.

Anyway you look at it you can't buy anything like the Japanese type stuff here, even if you define it as low quality. I've always wanted a nice pair of jeans but every time I tried on a pair I didn't like the way they sat and always end up settling for generic 501s. Was in NY last year and tried on a *LOT* of different jeans in different stores, including tsubis and Imperials and I liked the Imperials the most. I was floored by the price though. Obviously didn't buy them because I could get them at home and probably cheaper. Bought them from another inch in Sydney and after a nice chat with the owner, really cool guy BTW, was told about superfuture. Came here, had my eyes opened to all the variety, and been mostly lurking looking at fits and everyone's boasting about the quality of Japanese jeans but didn't want to take the risk ordering online and couldn't find any Japanese denim with the detailing of the Imperials. But lusted after something rough and heavy . You know, a real man's denim! Got the S5000VX and I love the material. I thought the Imperial's were tough denim but this is something else completely. It's rough but suprisingly comfortable. The details aren't nearly as good as the imperials, the stitching isn't as good, and the fit is very traditional in comparisson but I really like them. The difference in material is huge, putting on the Imperial's right after the Samurai's, it feels like the Imperials are made of fantastic thin silk. You just can't get anything like this in Sydney that I know of. They are both just plain good in their own way.

[alterion]

in the UK a pair of standard levi's 501's is more expensive than a pair of APC's and a pair of skulls is about $20 more. I don;t buy these jens for the quality though i buy them because to mynmind they're nicer and more enjoyable to wear than a pair off ther highstreet with a nicer colour.(okay and for the secret selvage superfuture handshakel)

In terms of qualtiy i guess denim wieight, fit and detailing are the 3 main areas people here look at but its pretty subjective what you care about

[hollaforadolla]

Also - I think samurai are very over rated, there prices are pretty steep in comparison with other brands too, they are nice but not amazing..... but they have character.

I agree, but after seeing the way the s5000bk fades, i could not resist.

[viv1984viv]

I agree, but after seeing the way the s5000bk fades, i could not resist.

me too!!!!!! I havent really made a dent in mine yet though....