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College is coming up, so I'm looking for a fixed gear, but don't know too much. What would be some good introductory frames (300$-400$) for me?

I've been told Mercier Kilo TT and Windsor the Hour, just seeing if there are any other options, thanks guys.

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College is coming up, so I'm looking for a fixed gear, but don't know too much. What would be some good introductory frames (300$-400$) for me?

I've been told Mercier Kilo TT and Windsor the Hour, just seeing if there are any other options, thanks guys.

if you're just looking for a frame for 300-400 I'd check leader bikes

http://www.leaderbikestore.com/cat_tracksingle.cfm

if you want the whole bike for 3-400 id go with the kilo tt. I've got one and love it.

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leader is a piece of shit. wow.

kilo all day. also, the motobecane team pro is a bargain at 799 with the parts that you get. (rebadged fuji track comp)

leader had a few hiccups a few years back with some of their designs, but they've gotten it straightened out. I've heard nothing but good about their new models.

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still tryna build up my leader 736r frame, gunna get it outfitted with SRAM force ideally

been watchin this movie

its been gettin me amped for gettin back on my bike this summer

TDOCDHOW.jpg

i also came across this, not sure if its a late pass

brookscouch.jpg

if they r all brooks saddles, its gotta be comfy!

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Yeah. Not good. A loose cog will strip your lockring off.

Your cog needs to be put on really tightly with grease and a long chainwhip, rotafix technique or cog vice. The lockring should sit snugly against it when it is tightened down. If it does not contact the cog, a different brand or shim should be used.

Zissou, make sure your wheels are right, if you're having them built. They should be perfectly round and have pretty high tension and not go out of true for at least 500 miles. Just because someone can lace and tension a wheel doesn't mean they are going to heavily stress it and keep it true for you over time.

I've had wheels built well enough where a bulk of spokes have been destroyed from impact and lost tension and the wheel still does not go out of true.

Lateral trueness doesn't really matter so much as radial trueness.

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^thanks, repeater. I will put them on the bike (sans tires at first) and check them out well. It's a reliable shop, and the guy who built them spent some time explaining how it all went.

^build them yourself? Not too hard to learn with all the information on the web, and I find it pretty fun/relaxing to build up a set with a few beers.

To be honest, I don't have the time right now, and they needed different length spokes than what I had. Building wheels and pressing headsets are the two parts of building a bike that I've messed up in the past....

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Guest renatho
DSC_1878.jpg

left to right:

origin8 delpasado, suntour, pake

mine is the origin8

looks great Mr. Satya! thank you for helping me build the orange fixed! full appreciate for that. see you in the next Sunday ride

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so i need new cranks for my new bike. im a small doodz and ive been riding 165mm for awhile, but would 170mm make really THAT much of a difference? there is already massive toe overlap at the clips, and i think 170mm might give me some pedal overlap.

should i do it if the price is right? or will it be bad on my knees?

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i'm in the market for a road bike <700

there are some on bikesdirect but i'm wondering if there are any other options?

trying to avoid used btw

Check out the Mercier Kilo TT. is on BD's and with some upgrade you can get a decent SS or fixie. I am planning on doing such build, upgrading the saddle, pedals, stem/bars to start..

Check out bikeforums Kilo tt thread, lots of info/pics for reference.

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that reminds of me of that one full-carbon kalavinka i keep seeing in harajuku

the rider wears like head to toe undercover

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