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Denime XX - A journey over 3 decades


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The Origin of DENIME

The brand name DENIME originates from Serge de Nimes, a type of fabric produced in the ancient textile center of Nimes, France, in the 15th century. The name “de Nimes” was anglicized to “Denim” in American English.

DENIME was established in 1988. The brand specializes in remaking rare masterpieces from the 1950s to 1970s that are now difficult to obtain, with the concept of faithfully recreating the atmosphere of that era. Every aspect of the production process—from materials, sewing, accessories, to styling—is meticulously pursued to achieve this vision.

 

DENIME's Commitment

Over 150 years have passed since jeans were first created in San Francisco during the Gold Rush, and jeans themselves have undergone historical transformations to reach their current form. DENIME develops products with a contemporary twist, grounded in the historical context, while staying true to the basic elements of jeans and aiming to faithfully capture the spirit of the era.

 Using threads dyed in the traditional manner, DENIME reproduces every step of the process—from weaving, sewing, and starching to the individual components—to create its jeans and denim jackets.

The distinctive color fading of DENIME's iconic XX type is achieved by repeatedly dyeing with chemically synthesized indigo, which adds depth to the dye layer and uses a concentrated dye.

After washing, each time the garment is worn, it develops the characteristic vertical fading and twisting known as “old-style proof,” along with the unique texture created by the side seams.

In this way, DENIME strives to remain as faithful as possible to the past while incorporating subtle, meticulous craftsmanship.

 

 

 

Denim (History of Denim)

Denim originates from “Serge de Nimes,” an ancient textile center in Nimes, France, in the 15th century. When “de Nimes” was brought to America, it evolved into “Denim” due to American pronunciation.

(The brand name “Denime” also derives from this origin.)

The “indigo synthetic dye,” also known as “indigoid dye,” made indigo dyeing, which was once very niche, a common practice.

This synthetic dye was first reported by German scientist A. von Bayer in 1878. Its chemical structure was determined in 1883, and mass production began.

(Structurally, it is identical to the components used in natural indigo dye, but it is pure, with no impurities like those found in natural indigo.)

 

The standard XX type was created by thoroughly researching everything from the origin of the cotton, color, thread count, dyeing process, and the number of warp and weft threads in the yarn, all the way back to the 1950s deadstock denim.

The first XX type produced between 1988 and 1989 was limited to just 144 pieces. It took six months from creating the prototype to starting mass production. Production was finally approved after confirming the fading condition. Denime's jeans and jackets truly shine six months after purchase.

 

 

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Orizzonti era

20220817_174629.jpg

 

Size 34x36

Raw measurements
Waist: 35"
Front rise: 12.25"
Back rise: 16"
Thighs: 13.125"
Knee: 9.75"
Leg opening: 8.75"
Inseam: 35"

The constructional thread is mainly orange throughout the jeans. Yellow thread is used on the inseam and the coin pocket.

 

Back view
Slanted belt loop, typical detail for Denime XX

20231125_143705.thumb.jpg.646b9ed05b899adeab793f9710cf37e6.jpg

 

Coin Pocket
20231112_195858.thumb.jpg.6cbb7ad55f25352b80e7d8f44a829fd7.jpg

20231112_200038.thumb.jpg.0b6deeb50a29cd665b2cf4c60a5710d7.jpg

 

Back pocket
Wider and shorter than Shins. Triangle stitch is missing on my pair.
20231125_143018.thumb.jpg.6d055341bf2cd8f188d4b85b7a59f046.jpg

20231125_143008.thumb.jpg.107de5c63a31e88a2bafb6e170c5ce96.jpg

 

Leather patch
20231125_143501.thumb.jpg.d720d13e3e5a84275c0a0982023ed75f.jpg

 

Fly construction
Typical for Orrizonti is the double stitching at the bottom of the fly
20231125_143935.thumb.jpg.dc28a298f6713dc1752adf108274cb92.jpg

 

V-stitch
Ending at the button. Waistband is not completey sewn with chainstitch
20231125_144152.thumb.jpg.0c86050c39bfb1f1da83eb1ef1d81790.jpg

 

Top button
Shiny material
 20231125_144722.thumb.jpg.2a40849ea2655688ba092380b58bafc1.jpg

 

Belt loops
Slightly raised, orange thread
20231125_144439.thumb.jpg.29fd794c85d441c23dc7dc228e80795b.jpg

 

Hidden rivet
Discoloured on my pair. Black bartack is used.
20231125_145017.thumb.jpg.7e65b2bcd093f0cc160ca3263b60648e.jpg

 

Selvedge
The selvedge thread is rather thin. Change of the twill direction is there.
20231125_145342.thumb.jpg.522477b4f4fb311294396e618a847ffa.jpg

 

Front pockets
No selvedge (although I think I saw pairs with selvedge cloth). Printed with 492x41
zOvq2Hz.jpg

zZClkL0.jpg

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Shins era

20231026_163136.thumb.jpg.8f26dacd52ffe6f1155b13accac60e7d.jpg

 

Size 34x36

One-wash measurements
Waist: 34"
Front rise: 12"
Back rise: 15.75"
Thighs: 13"
Knee: 9.75"
Leg opening: 8.75"
Inseam: 36"

The constructional thread is mainly orange throughout the jeans. But instead of yellow thread only for the inseam and the coin pocket, the fly is also constructed using yellow thread.

 

Back view
Slanted belt loop, typical detail for Denime XX

oTDGQZ7.jpg

 

Coin pocket
20231112_200218.thumb.jpg.e1ba767464d531ba4e0840a8e2e50eb1.jpg

20231112_200357.thumb.jpg.4e8733abae7a13b9a1ff30a5c946a7f1.jpg
 

Back pocket
Smaller but longer than Orizzonti. Triangle stitch is there
aoTQ4HY.jpg

UTbUxow.jpg

 

Leather patch
sNMzBQy.jpg

 

Fly construction
No double stitching anymore, yellow thread is used as well
lZzWuUe.jpg

 

V-stitch
Is carried out steeper, ending before the button. Waistband sewn completely with chainstitch and even with a run-off.
eV4UWZF.jpg

 

Top button
Same shiny material like Orizzonti. My pair is a bit aged...
J9iYG46.jpg

 

Belt loops
Slightly raised, orange thread. Very similar to Orizzonti, bartack looks a bit thicker and does not go over the edge
4SvyuCo.jpg

 

Hidden rivet
The bartack is a very dark grey. Not black. Construction looks cleaner
vLI1f2V.jpg

 

Selvedge
The selvedge thread is quite fat and prominent. Change of twill direction is there
YFizfYa.jpg

 

Front pockets
Selvedge. Printed with 492x41.
PE1mIqJ.jpg

ZttBKst.jpg

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Wego era (Original Line)

image.thumb.jpeg.9d49a5f846771c440edf6028e1a6bc36.jpeg

 

Size 36x34

Raw measurements
Waist: 35.8"
Front rise: 12.25"
Back rise: 16"
Thighs: 14"
Knee: 9.75"
Leg opening: 8.75"
Inseam: 33.75"

The constructional thread is mainly orange throughout the jeans. Yellow thread is used on the inseam and the coin pocket.

 

Back view
Slanted belt loop, typical detail for Denime XX

XtGCdMg.jpg

 

Coin pocket
20231112_200656.thumb.jpg.7ade2437b07bb2a3f6955328290cc01e.jpg

20231112_200749.thumb.jpg.7e4abcb97522eae48fc2eb0779370f4e.jpg

 

Back pocket
The smallest back pockets of all models and this pair is a W36...Triangle stitch is there
IWBrBC3.jpg

uh5Uowm.jpg

 

Leather patch
Not attached like the other pairs
2E3MMif.jpg

 

Fly construction
No double stitching anymore. Just orange thread used.
0zbxRki.jpg

 

V-stitch
More obtuse angle, ending at the button. Waistband sewn completely with chainstitch tucked in
FNR3TrS.jpg

 

Top button
Same shiny material like Orizzonti.
G1woqU5.jpg

 

Belt loops
Slightly raised, orange thread. Smalelr diestance between the stitching. Thinner bartack
sbm8jSK.jpg

 

Hidden rivet
The bartack is a very dark grey. Not black. Construction looks cleaner
Gl1R5DY.jpg

 

Selvedge
The selvedge thread is quite fat and prominent, like Shins. Change of twill direction is there. Most narrow selvedge line of all models.
R4KRtOv.jpg

 

Front pockets
Selvedge. Printed with the Original Line stamp.
EwrvyQ0.jpg

LGg87NQ.jpg

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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Original Line

HD4HSgI.jpg

 

Size 36x34

One-wash measurements
Waist: 36"
Front rise: 11.5"
Back rise: 15.5"
Thighs: 13"
Knee: 9.125"
Leg opening: 8.25"
Inseam: 31.25" (hemmed)

 

Biggest coin pocket of the eras, a shorter fly, thicker chainstitch at the wasitband

RQvERU3.jpg

Biggest and brightest leather patch

SUwmiut.jpg

Selvedge pocket bags (but thinner, more space between the orange thread)
PmIUMOS.jpg

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