EU Lee 101

[428CJ]

I searched using the search function, and went back manually many pages. I was surprised to see that there is no thread dedicated to EU Lee – particularly the 101 line that most people here would probably be interested in. These clothes seem pretty popular to me, and I own a bunch, so I thought I'd start a thread. 

[428CJ]

I will start with some progress pix of this pair of Riders in 16 Oz. Lot No. 16 denim.

The denim is really nice. White weft, blue warp. The warp yarns were dyed black first, and then blue, resulting in an extremely deep blue when new. The patch is hair-on-hide (not belt-through style), and the stitching is orange.

I was already well into fading these before I thought to take good pix, so I didn't get a starting pic. However, I do have another cut (Cinch Taper) that uses the same denim. I've only worn them two days, so they can give you a good idea of what the denim was like when new.

I should mention that I pilfered two belt loops from the Cinch Tapers, and added them to these Riders. They are both originally 5-loop jeans.

I just finished 85 days of raw wear on the Riders, then gave them a hand tub wash in Woolite Dark. I followed with a wash/rinse using clean water with about two cups of vinegar added. This washes them more, and cuts the soap. Then, a plain water rinse.

I photographed them in identical lighting.

First set is as new. Second set is 85 days in, pre wash. Third set is 85 days in, post wash.

I like the way they look so far. My plan is to do about six washes a year the first year, and then a wash per month from then out.

 

 

 

 

[428CJ]

Re-posted from the Workshirts thread.

Here are some progress pix of my dark blue Lee 101 EU Sawtooth. I started wearing it as it came, with no initial wash. After almost three years of ownership and 212 days of wear, I washed it for the first time. I have included the pre-wash photos again so you don't have to scroll up and down to compare.

The before and after shots can be directly compared, because the variables between the photographs were very well controlled. I left my entire studio setup exactly the same since I photographed the shirt pre-wash, and I applied exactly the same Lightroom edits to all of the photos.

I didn't photograph this shirt when it was new, but I do have an unworn one. It's a slightly different edition, with chest embroidery and a "Japanese Fabric" tag inside, but the fabric and cut are the same. I photographed that as well, so you can see what the fabric on the broken in one looked like when it was new.

What is what should be obvious. Brand new are dark, pre-wash are worn and filthy, and post-wash are worn and clean.

 

 

As far as washing procedure, I gave the shirt what I would call an "aggressive hand wash" using Woolite Dark in cold water. I soaked in a plastic storage bin in the bath with cold water and the Woolite for an hour or two, giving the shirt a general agitation a couple times during. Then I aggressively agitated it for about 10 to 15 minutes, both generally and on specific areas. I dumped that water out, and it was so saturated with dye and filth that it was a DARK opaque blue.

I then gave it another Woolite soak and wash sequence, but with a shorter soak time and shorter agitation time. I dumped that water out (very blue, but translucent and bright this time), and quickly rinsed with the detachable shower head.

Then I gave the shirt about 30 minutes of soaking with intermittent general and specific agitation, with about two cups of vinegar in the water. Dumped that, and it was a lot closer to clear.

Then a soak and agitation in plain water. Dumped that, and it was nearly clear. Then a rinse with a detachable shower head, before hanging to dry indoors.

I'm just going to put in a word for Woolite Dark here. It cuts grime EXTREMELY well, but it isn't harsh on the dye. It seems to really pop the naturally faded areas, while leaving your background dye field alone. Supposedly it somewhat smooths frayed yarns as well. Though I don't know how that works, I have to say that it does have a different effect on frayed yarns and threadbare areas than any other detergent I've tried. And I like the scent. Not the detergent to use if you like classic fades, but it's great stuff if you want high contrast.

[428CJ]

Cultizm had a great sale (25 percent off storewide) coupled with already reduced pricing and free shipping, so I just grabbed a few more pieces. They arrived today.

101Zs in Lot 59 denim, size 34/34. This is a beautiful fast fading double black denim with blue selvedge ticker, which I have on a pair of Riders and my Storm Jacket. It's nice to see it on the 101Z cut (a slim straight low-mid-waisted cut). I favor the 101Z cut over the Rider cut by a mile. The Rider is a slightly lower waisted tapered cut, with a bizarre thigh-to-waist ratio: too big in the waist for the size of the thighs. I need to get them taken in a few inches at the waist in order to fit me right.

The 101Zs: https://www.cultizm.com/us/detail/index/sArticle/16770

Also grabbed the Lee EU (non-101) Cowboy Jacket in single wash jelt denim, size XL. Very nice piece. Wish it was raw, but oh well. It's still really nice.

https://www.cultizm.com/us/detail/index/sArticle/18482

$190 including delivery from Germany to California for both items. Took four days to get here! Very good pricing and amazingly fast delivery.

There have to be more people here who wear Lee EU stuff. Please share!

Edited May 21, 2020 by 428CJ

[SF2Turbo]

Yes lee 101 EU line defo make some nice stuff. I have some regular line lee shirts denim and chambray.

recently picked up the loco 101 chore coat from union clothing still thinking if I will keep it left all the tags on. Fit is a bit more boxy than I wanted it’s a medium and I wear everything Medium. Sleeves are perfect length and shoulder. The boxy fit will be good for wearing hoodies underneath. The denim weight was not advertised so I was guessing it would be around 13oz big mistake to me it feels like 10oz-11.5 so will work great from now until early summer . Will do fit pic once I get the chance.

Lee 101 line defo needs more love here

[SF2Turbo]

Sorry for the poorly taken pic will do a better job next post 

[SF2Turbo]

Just took a quick pic. Still wearing pj bottoms guys. Is it too big?

also will take more pics when I get a chance. Sorry for the camera angle I don’t have a tripod.

On a side note the label says it’s selvedge denim. Which I would expect at £190.00

but no selvedge details anywhere on the jacket. I’m confused. Usually there is some selvedge detail somewhere.

[SF2Turbo]

On 5/21/2020 at 11:49 PM, 428CJ said:

Cultizm had a great sale (25 percent off storewide) coupled with already reduced pricing and free shipping, so I just grabbed a few more pieces. They arrived today.

101Zs in Lot 59 denim, size 34/34. This is a beautiful fast fading double black denim with blue selvedge ticker, which I have on a pair of Riders and my Storm Jacket. It's nice to see it on the 101Z cut (a slim straight low-mid-waisted cut). I favor the 101Z cut over the Rider cut by a mile. The Rider is a slightly lower waisted tapered cut, with a bizarre thigh-to-waist ratio: too big in the waist for the size of the thighs. I need to get them taken in a few inches at the waist in order to fit me right.

The 101Zs: https://www.cultizm.com/us/detail/index/sArticle/16770

Also grabbed the Lee EU (non-101) Cowboy Jacket in single wash jelt denim, size XL. Very nice piece. Wish it was raw, but oh well. It's still really nice.

https://www.cultizm.com/us/detail/index/sArticle/18482

$190 including delivery from Germany to California for both items. Took four days to get here! Very good pricing and amazingly fast delivery.

There have to be more people here who wear Lee EU stuff. Please share!

That is a very nice jacket. I like the lengths of lee trucker style jackets as the length isn’t too long compared to some other denim jackets I’ve seen and own.

 

[Geeman]

Fit on the chores fine

[SF2Turbo]

3 hours ago, Geeman said:

Fit on the chores fine

thanks mate appreciate that. 

[SF2Turbo]

Hi I only wear button fly denim for the most part. I want to add a lee 101s to my wardrobe when I have some spare cash to spend. Anyone know how high the back rise is? I usually go for denim with decent back rise like LVC 66 is perfect not over the top high but enough for a shirt to be tucked in giving it a comfy and smart look.

[andyrcii]

Lee 101z lot 49, 214 wears, one bathtub wash at 183 wears with Mr. Black denim wash.
 

 

[andyrcii]

brand new “Lee 50s Rider”. European exclusive for this season.
 

[428CJ]

On 3/8/2021 at 1:45 AM, SF2Turbo said:

Hi I only wear button fly denim for the most part. I want to add a lee 101s to my wardrobe when I have some spare cash to spend. Anyone know how high the back rise is? I usually go for denim with decent back rise like LVC 66 is perfect not over the top high but enough for a shirt to be tucked in giving it a comfy and smart look.

Rear rise will depend on size. There is significant manufacturing variation from run to run as well, IME.

There have normally been no truly high rise jeans in the EU Lee 101 catalog's standard offerings. Their highest rise cuts are still merely mid-rise jeans, barely hitting, or coming in just under, a 12" front rise, even in the larger sizes, like 36.

In the past few seasons, they have put out a few more "vintage-inspired" pieces, so these might have slightly higher rises. But the typical 101Z, Riders, and 101Ss are nowhere near high rise.

[SF2Turbo]

On 3/12/2021 at 12:46 PM, andyrcii said:

Lee 101z lot 49, 214 wears, one bathtub wash at 183 wears with Mr. Black denim wash.
 

 

thanks for the posting these, 101z look great i will add a 101z or 101s for my next pair for sure. personally im more of a button fly guy but if the front rise is too low on 101 s i will choose 101z

[SF2Turbo]

On 3/13/2021 at 2:48 AM, 428CJ said:

Rear rise will depend on size. There is significant manufacturing variation from run to run as well, IME.

There have normally been no truly high rise jeans in the EU Lee 101 catalog's standard offerings. Their highest rise cuts are still merely mid-rise jeans, barely hitting, or coming in just under, a 12" front rise, even in the larger sizes, like 36.

In the past few seasons, they have put out a few more "vintage-inspired" pieces, so these might have slightly higher rises. But the typical 101Z, Riders, and 101Ss are nowhere near high rise.

thanks for the info. so i can't expect the back rise of 101s to be close to the LVC 1966 is what your saying.

[SF2Turbo]

This is a recent pick up off lee rider jacket regular lee EU line

it’s not a part of the 101 line but still pretty decent quality light weight. Feels like a 10 oz jacket will be wearing in the coming summer months alternating between this and my chore jacket.

I also have a chambray from lee regular line which I will also post soon. I took a close up of the rivet detail on the sleeve and pocket as well  as the jacket itself

sorry for the lighting poor image quality once again 

Edited March 16, 2021 by SF2Turbo

[SF2Turbo]

Close up of rivet on the sleeve

[428CJ]

On 3/14/2021 at 8:47 AM, SF2Turbo said:

thanks for the info. so i can't expect the back rise of 101s to be close to the LVC 1966 is what your saying.

I would expect any EU Lee 101 jeans to have a rise at least 3/4" lower than the same size LVC '66s. That's just an estimate pulled out of my head, so I would give it 1/4" either way based on the estimate.

[SF2Turbo]

2 hours ago, 428CJ said:

I would expect any EU Lee 101 jeans to have a rise at least 3/4" lower than the same size LVC '66s. That's just an estimate pulled out of my head, so I would give it 1/4" either way based on the estimate.

thanks for the info helps me out a lot. looks like i will have to pop into a lee store and try a pair out to see if the lower back rise works for me.

[LazyS]

70s rider size 36

Hardly anything like the actual 70s Lee's i've owned, but it does have some details i like.

[428CJ]

8 hours ago, LazyS said:

70s rider size 36

Hardly anything like the actual 70s Lee's i've owned, but it does have some details i like.

Got the same pants, in the same waist size.

Nope, nothing "repro" about them. Lee 101 EU doesn't do true repros, that I have ever seen. They've called things "'50s" or "'70s" before, but they are nowhere close to being detailed reproductions. 

[peter1]

I like the EU Lee line but just can’t wear Lee, for a possibly silly reason. I grew up in Reading, Pa., the home of VF Corp., and the site of the first real factory outlets. In the 70s and 80s everybody wore Lees because you could get them at the huge (5 stories) Lee outlet for $10 a pair - fancy-pants Levi’s were $35 or maybe $40 at the time so once we were old enough to get summer jobs we all saved our money to buy 501s. Lees were for the poor slobs who couldn’t afford Levi’s.
 

Of course now I wish I’d bought 500 pairs of those Lees and stashed them away...jackets too...i think much of it was still miUSA until the mid 80s...VF offshored all production at some point but not sure when.

[LazyS]

 

2 hours ago, peter1 said:

 Lees were for the poor slobs who couldn’t afford Levi’s.

Moi

[peter1]

^^I definitely remember my first pair of Levis. they were orange tab as red tabs were 10 bucks more! They didn't fit as well as Lees, which had a pretty forgiving cut. 

[peter1]

One more Lee/VF tidbit: In the early 70s my parents bought matching reversible leather tuxedos from Lee -- I don't quite know how to describe it except the tops were Rider jackets in smooth/suede and the pants were basically jeans. The leather was unlined, very thin, dark brown with white contrast stitching...

AFAIK they bought them for a costume party -- even 45 years ago it was a bit much. I'm sure they've long been tossed out but what a find if they weren't. 

[unders]

@peter1

A photo must exist somewhere. You don’t buy a his ‘n’ hers ensemble like that and not take a photo. Dig it out and please post for super plus +++ reps! 

[andyrcii]

[/URL] 

been wearing this 101J since May 1 2020. Very versatile jacket, layering things under and over it in winter, or as a light jacket in summer. I’ve managed to wear it on my walks practically every day. Did a bit of factory work in it, bit of carrying, a bit of sawdust in the arms and rolling in the dirt in the country here and there. 
it feels dirty to the touch now so I am preparing to wash it any day now

[andyrcii]

Decided to break out the 50’s Rider 101.