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Since there isn't a ss15 thread up yet to my knowledge and given that I don't have pics, I thought I'd post in here for now... Went to the ss15 trunk show in Nagoya today. First, a few initial things. Like all FILs they close the shop and it's invite-only to get in. Once in you can look around at whatever and try on whatever you like. There's a fair amount of sales people there sort of hovering about. It's nice that they can provide info on the stuff but kind of annoying in my opinion too. They provided little cloud coffee for free and gave people who put in orders limited edition handkerchiefs with a print from the new season.

 

As far as the clothing goes, interestingly they didn't have the full collection available to try on. They had a lot (but no all) of the outerwear, which was probably their largest stock. They had a decent selection of shoes, shirts, accessories and pants, but by no means the full range. They did, however, also let people browse the lookbook to make orders as well.

 

In my opinion the clothes available to check there skewed to their very high end stuff. They had that super ugly dragon shirt that goes for like $10,000. The full lhamo robes and a lot of leathers and suede. SS15 with have a new elmendorf. It's a thick leather, very nice quality. Tried it on but didn't like the fit. I used to have an earlier version of the elmendorf which I thought fit much better. Too short in the body was my main complaint. They had a lot of Americana-inspired pieces, embroidered varsity jackets, sailor-style jackets, lightweight parkas and that kind of stuff. Quality looked good but it's not my cup of tea.

 

It seems SS15 is going to have a strong emphasis on hawaiian shirts and indigo stuff again. The hawaiian shirts were pretty tacky in my opinion. The prints were either loud and unimpressive or done in indigo. The indigo stuff (again, my opinion) is not quite as good as a lot of other Japanese brands doing the same sort of thing. 45 rpm, for example, does it much better and cheaper. There's also a lot of embroidered stuff with like slogans on there which didn't do much for me.

 

The main stuff I liked were the more simplistic designs, many of which were just new versions of earlier pieces. Of the stuff I did order I went for the mies (in a red and indigo check pattern), black elk and a few other things. They'll have a full range of veggie dyed and indigo tees and sweaters, the usual range of fabrics and natural dyes as well. Those sorts of things were the more standard pieces and were not included in the trunk show but could be ordered.

 

Over all it is a large collection with a fair amount of stuff to like, although at the trunk show the emphasis was more on their "designed" and thus substantially more expensive pieces. If you're into them it's pretty cool because many probably won't even hit the stores. However, since I am not John Mayer or trying to be a high fashion 1950s greaser a lot of that stuff didn't appeal to me.

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I'm writting this before every season:

"Suede IT stuff is looking strong"

:D

Thanks for sharing. How does the Elmendorf differ from the earlier releases (despite being a bit shorter)? What is the liner? What is it made of?

 

Elmendorf is made of a very thick leather. I think they've done it that way before. Lining was a knit cotton, looked kind of like the material you would find on a sack of vegetables, which I think they've also done before. Also had normal cuffs instead of the earlier ribbed cuffs. To give some perspective, I'm usually a 2 in most things visvim. I tried on a 3 in the elmendorf and it was tight and small on the body. I realize the leather will stretch, but can't do anything about the length. Also couldn't tell if they used windstopper this time around. My personal take is that it's not worth the hefty price tag, where earlier iterations were at least a bit more justified.

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Oh and a word about pricing: from what I could tell the pricing will be relatively consistent this season. Classic pants are around 26,000 yen, basic shirts around 10,000, belts at 25,000 or so to start, jackets around 60,000 for the basics and up from there. None of the stuff had tags so you either had to ask or just order blindly and then find out the price.

 

A few more random things:

 

- There will be new kilgore and mechanics jacket. Kilgore looked good and seemed to have a bit of insulation. Mechanics got rid of those little leather patches on the front and looks better for it

- PFD jacket had a ridiculous cowboy pattern on it. The collar already looks kind of weird, so this was super weird and probably super expensive

- They have some suede bomber jackets with the cowboy lining. Cowboy lining is fine rather than the outer print

- More fringed suede jackets to look like Johnny Depp in

- Had a couple of versions of down kerchief shirt/jacket, either in hawaiian or cowboy prints. Also fugly

- They're introducing a range of striped indigo pants and jackets with damage processing. Again, expensive and not all that cool

- Shoes were generally unimpressive to me. Had new versions of the skagway and a lot of biker-inspired boots. Quality looked great and it's cool if you're into that sort of things I suppose

-

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