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Ha ha ha you know me Dr Here is for you and MJF9 for the special request

No

This is one of the Yahoo scores I totally forgot to have bid on. And one Saturday I got the mail "you've won!". Orizzonti era sweater. On the short side but for 2,610 ¥ I won't complain 😉

Tender | Toyo/Headlight overalls

A few thoughts and observations... The arm holes on the SC version are notably vertical. The CSF arm holes more curved. When I looked at the shoulder measurements for the SC, they are quite big Perhaps the jacket SC modelled it off was more akin to the #02 model from 1923 in the Levis book When I compared measurements on the SC 1943 to the FW 1922, they are similar in terms of the wider shoulders relative to chest. The arms come up a bit longer on the SC hence you can see peeps like SJ above wearing the sleeves cuffed. It looks good either way imo. I think the SC looks both attractive and interesting... the denim looks nice and crunchy and irregular too...

Getting fed up with the grim weather here in the UK, rather have some of these blues than the winter blues. Hurry up Spring!!

Tilley / Tender Co. x3 / Hollows / Russell

Vintage Columbia hat (stolen from my dad) Vintage Levis jacket (stolen from my dad) Champion Left Field Smokestacks Blundstones

Hardenco work shirt. Mister Freedom SC Awa Ai lot 64 Nicks Builder Pro

Andersen Andersen, Manifattura Ceccarelli, Indigofera, Samurai

L + not rebuilding America + will never make it to the beach + no bridge baby + no DOOMS + no Mads Mikkelsen father figure (literally me btw) + "Hideo Kojima attributes stronger criticism in the US to Americans lacking the 'artistic sensibility' to understand Death Stranding." + not peeing whenever and wherever you want sry bro you just don't got the vision ⚡⚡⚡

Spent a couple evenings this past week tending dye pots of cochineal and red cabbage Both dyes were new to us, so so far it’s just been testing out different fabric treatments & dye additives, with some cheap silk handkerchiefs and some little cotton & linen test strips

Tilley / Tender Co. x3 / Tezomeya / Hollows / White’s

wild leg twist on these lot 64 SC Awa Ai jeans

^^^ there's quite a few 50s in your update Duke.... if it wasn't you I'd be getting suspicious Just thinking of value, how would the turn down collar jacket price compare to Ironheart, for example, or if you extrapolate the costs of your OG jacket, what would it be today??? Or am I barking up the wrong tree woof @Broark are you sure you don't need this to put away for winter? An extra layer under the Sasquatch perchance?? Joking aside, really nice jacket but am gonna pass!

@MJF9 well JPY135k for the Turn Down is about £707 and an Iron Heart pretend N1 is £705 on Rivet & Hide so …

I am waering the one from you, the sc one maybe next I like the SC one but just one red tag is missing

I really want the turn down collar jacket but I have to pump the brakes. It's already getting hot here so I wouldn't get much wear out of it this year. I might be planning a Japan trip soon (sooner than later if this job opportunity works out). If I do go I'll be sure to meet up with Seiichiro, I'm sure he'll try to sell me that sweater.

+ fit pics of the jacket would be good if you don't mind @silencejoe

Here’s my Flat Head 6002W denim jacket in size 44. I bought it used off Yahoo Auctions Japan last summer. It showed some slight fading on the front placket, and some broken stitches on the “rectangles”holding down the pleats, but otherwise looked nearly new, with no signs of wear on the arms. The denim felt stiff and crunchy after a cold wash. I’ve put about 2.5 months of actual wear into it, and it’s breaking in pretty much like a fresh jacket would. This jacket is awesome, probably my favorite-fitting denim jacket I’ve worn so far. Thanks to the slightly wide shoulders, the sleeves are actually long enough, which is usually the issue I have with denim jackets. The chest measurement is just right, and the width of the body and sleeves likewise. I wish it was maybe an inch or so shorter in length, but it’s not a big deal. The denim is Flat Head’s usual 14.5 oz, which lends itself well to a denim jacket. The weight is just right, and it’s well suited for pretty much all-season wear, over T-shirts, long sleeves, and flannels. One somewhat surprising detail is the patch sewing. On every other 6002 I’ve seen, the patch is sewn with contrast stitching, the outline clearly visible on the back of the jacket, but this one is sewn with navy thread, making it “invisible” when seen from behind. I’m really curious why this was. Was the patch removed and re-sewn at some point? Why would somebody do that? There’s not actually any indication it was removed or “tampered” with, otherwise the jacket is just like any other TFH denim jackets I’ve seen/handled. I’m not sure exactly when the jacket dates from. It has iron buttons so it’s not from earlier than the late 2000s when TFH switch from coated zinc (?) to their current iron buttons, but this model has been discontinued for a long time, so I’d guess early 2010s. All in all, great jacket, especially for the price I paid (around $130 or so), well below typical for a new denim jacket from a Japanese brand. I’m sure their current production Type IIs are excellent as well, but I especially like stuff from the “original” Flat Head era.

Finally got my luck for the jacket and jeans

It’s truly impressive how badly he fucked the J36-WS. Almost as trash as the J1 with the Kraft Single stapled to the front

Yeah looks like a comfortable fit... though I think the chest is about right and that has dictated the size. The shoulders are wider which coupled with the linear / perpendicular shoulder seam creates what we'd now see as oversized but is in keeping with the period from what I've seen. From 1927 the shoulder seams are curved and so fall differently. Haha but yes maybe he could have fit a 44 but took a punt on 46 for the T back!!

Jeans plus jacket mate... I crumbled!! Went with size 46 jacket... I think it'll be an interesting fit, as per my comments above. Short and boxy with overhanging shoulders. Waiting for the right SC cotton to hem my jeans 😃 ... hopefully soon but not sure when yet Will be interested in your report!

Jacket then, right? My jeans should arrive next week

Sounds good, i will give it a try. Thanks Dr

Why not take the Piece tag off when the jacket becomes threadbare and sew it onto the SC jacket?

Apart from profiteering? You should have read the Denimbro exchanges when it first came out. It’s a long process on a vintage machine - I got one of the first 50 made and I think those took well over 50 days to make. It’s also a lot of expensive wool. I think it’s better value than the Ultima Thule stuff for example. For me, the real FW is when they focus on stuff that’s ’hard to make’ - the details and the materials. But I only mention the cardigan because it’s a statement piece that’s been released again and not what @AlientoyWorkmachine was thinking …

Not a real fan then 🤷‍♂️ Anyways you know what you like, you know how much is in your wallet and you know Seiichiro will confirm your likes and take your cash. Looking forward to the result.

Keep it coming @Cold Summer, I find your posts helpful and interesting.

That’s exactly the best thing to do - ask Seiichiro what he has and take it from there. But for what it’s worth a real FW fan should be getting the turned down collar sweater coat …

No flaming intended but I agree, but couldn't put into words as well as Duke. Your passion is infectious and I welcome your regular activity/input but you sometimes portray your opinions as fact with some clear 'prejudice' in your posts. Just enjoy your gear mate and don't over analyse above our already OCD levels of over analysis of jeans and shirts!

I might have somethings coming along soon

I’ve read these last few posts a number of times. I like the passion you have for your possessions, I’m a lot less keen on the spurious comparisons and justifications which just aren’t needed. As others have noted, using a potentially overpriced brand to demonstrate good value is unsound; as is trying to extrapolate currency trading values over a long period (nevermind then confusing things further with other countries). Much as I’ve admired fabrics and the ‘look’ of Flat-Head shirts - I find the sizing / cut almost nonsensical. I’m probably the computer designed ‘average’ build … well maybe a bit less so these days … but never have I found a Flat-Head shirt that fits (I’ve tried a few). It tells me a lot that someone of your build needs a 44. One question about that shirt in particular - why do the front yokes and pockets have fabric running in different directions?

Flat Head 6002W Type II jacket. 2.5 months of wear since I bought it used (but with virtually no prior fading.) Color/contrast most accurate in the closeup.

J123A collar looks good, like the wide profil look.

It looks like nerd jacket. E-J4TS is much better than this. Really disappointed.

It didn’t quite feel fair to describe anyone who regularly buys IH for international MSRP as “normal”… Most of what feel like the nicest shirts on the market, within our little sphere, top out at closer to $250, and many are much less All the same, you’re right that it’s a big jump up from where we were at (or where those of you were at who were always present at the time) 15 years ago

Here’s my Flat Head FNW-61W shirt in size 42, which I recently picked up from eBay. I’d gotten another one of these from Japan a couple months ago, but it was a little small, so I was quite excited when one of these showed up in 42. For me, this is one of the best shirts Flat Head ever made, and that’s saying something. In addition to being a beautiful and impressive shirt in its own right, it’s pretty significant because it was an integral part of early Self Edge history, being one of the first shirts they sold, and featured prominently in their first look book, which you can still see on their site. The way Self Edge and Superfuture adopted this shirt (for instance, Sidney Lo, who prominently wore it in his WAYWT photos) was pretty revolutionary, taking something which had rockabilly vibes in its original context, and basically turning it into streetwear. Of course I was still a few years away from discovering the exciting world of specialty denim back in 2007, but all this ended up being pretty influential in retrospect. The recent Self Edge editorial about the Imperial collab went into all this, and it was pretty insightful since I’d previously been stuck trying to piece it all together from reading old forum threads long after the fact. My own approach is a little different, as I’m generally tucking it in and wearing with engineer boots and leather jackets for more of a “mid-century rancher gone off the rails” vibe, but I really appreciate how such a distinct-looking shirt can be dressed up or down into various styles. The design of this shirt is really great, it has a single yoke pattern and slanted single-button pockets, similar to Flat Head’s 7001 denim shirt. Flat Head also offered this shirt over the years with various combinations of split yoke and sawtooth pockets, as well as a lot of different color combinations, but I think this original iteration, in the Ivory/Black colorway, is the very best. In the past, I owned the circa 2011 split yoke version of this shirt, and the Ivory/Green one. I ended up regretting selling both of them, but this one makes up for it. This shirt has all the goodies you know and love from Flat Head: a custom houndstooth flannel woven on a shuttle loom, 100% cotton stitching, and terrific sewing courtesy of double-needle chain stitching and single-needle accents at the pockets and yoke. It features a ton of felled seams, and selvedge side gussets. I don’t know this for certain but it was probably made by Nakajima Housei, the Gunma prefecture sewing factory that made most of Flat Head’s shirts. The sewing is one of the areas where Flat Head really shines. When you compare to something like an Iron Heart flannel, Flat Head shirts have a distinctly “hand-made” sort of feel, between the vintage machinery and techniques used, and the all-cotton stitching. The double-needle parts of the shirt have a bulge between the stitches, giving a pleasing three-dimensional touch, and the pattern alignment is extremely impressive and well done as well. Flat Head always excels at this, and it’s really on display with a shirt like this, which has such a bold, distinct pattern. The shirt features Flat Head’s “Original Wear” serif name tag at the collar, rather than their shorthorn Western Wear tag, which is maybe a bit surprising, but I think the shorthorn tag was only used for non-flannel shirts, which could explain it. Usually the snaps are branded Universal, but these say Crown; they may be a Universal reproduction of a specific vintage snap. The buttons are a dark mother-of-pearl sort material with a distinct, deep green sheen depending on how the light hits, pretty hard to capture in photographs. This early version had a two-button cuff, while the subsequent iterations over the next couple of years had three. All the buttons snap hard, with no sign of wearing out anytime soon. In 2013 Flat Head redesigned their houndstooth flannel with a bigger pattern, heavier weight, and brushed interior, which made it feel quite similar to an Iron Heart flannel. I owned the Turquoise/Ivory western, which I got when I worked for them in 2013-14. Although exciting at the time, since then I’ve decided that this original iteration was much better and I wish they’d bring it back. If you go back and read the early Flat Head and Self Edge threads it was pretty controversial when a casual shirt showed up costing $150+ and a lot of people weren’t convinced. It seems pretty quaint now, where it’s almost normal in this sphere to spend $350 on a shirt. But in my opinion, this shirt is better designed and more interesting than those pricier new shirts. Here’s my advice if you see one of these shirts come up for sale in your size: get it.

Switching from a new pair back to a faded pair always feels off at first

Vans Pro signature model (Pa Din Musa) Malaysian pro sk8ters 2nd issues his fist shoes by vans release in 2017 so this one is the 2nd release.

price drop to 550, thank you. discord: goretextgirl is my pref. for communications.

Finally starting to see a little wear in my Okolehao ranch jacket (by Sun Surf) Really like this thing—worn it a lot over the past 3–4 years

507XX 5 months daily wear and barely a scratch.

Finally got around to picking up a type 2. Wish I’d done it sooner. Really happy with it.

1927 is coming along nicely. Even with a little spray paint action

The boss man of FW

One crackhead homeless with a DIY jacket made out of trashbags and ready to stab you

I think using the TEC SYS grid is fine as long as you don't intend to zip the jacket up, which I personally never do