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Hope you all aren't sick of me yet lol. Stayed up past my bedtime last night finishing up all the sewing (other than the patch, waiting on that material to ship from an etsy seller). Tried doing rivets and buttons on the practice pair but was having trouble with those. Not gonna put any of those parts on this pair till I know I can do it cleanly. The waistband was the trickiest part. Was advised not to put interfacing inside so that it can stay pliable, but that made it harder to keep everything straight. After a couple unsuccessful attempts where the needle failed to catch the inside seam I ended up sewing down the inside seam allowance to the inside of the jeans and then pinned along the length of the waistband down the middle to keep the needle from missing the inside seam. Worked alright once I decided to just use the handwheel all the way around. Not ideal but it looks way cleaner than any attempt I made with the foot pedal. This was the only time I really got frustrated during the process, so not so bad in the grand scheme. Decided to do tucked belt loops because I love that detail on my Left Field pairs. Gives me something to put my keys on that won't pull the top of the waistband down. Next time I make a pair I will get a zigzag machine so I can do bartacks. Thought about hacking em with the buttonholer, but decided not to since the buttonholer foot wouldn't hold much fabric on the belt loops, so slippage might have occurred.

I had tried to get some understand of the different denims and their nomenclature. I had a look again and I think these are basically the main fabrics: 1. Dead Stock Blue DSB/WWII it seems to be indicated by „(1000XX)“ There are two weights a) pink selvedge- 13.5oz. 7.5x7.5 examples: Lot 1001XX(1000XX)【1947MODEL】 b) pink selvedge- 14oz. 6.7x6.6 strong vertical fading examples: Lot S1003XX(1000XX)【1942MODEL】 S1001XX(1000XX) 1946MODEL Lot S1000XX 25th Anniversary S1001XX(1946) 2. New Denim/WWII Denim orange selvedge 6.7 x 6.6 (ca. 14oz, sometimes described as 14.5oz) example: Lot.DD-1003XX NEW DENIM 1946 MODEL 3. Banner/Three State 13.75oz 7x7 examples: Lot 1001XX Lot DD-1001XX(1947 MODEL) Lot 900XX 4. Memphis Cotton 14.5oz 6x6 examples: Lot 800XX(STANDARD) Lot 1001XX HEAVY OUNCE edit: Hmm, there seem to be two kinds of WWII denim: DSB and new denim. Not really sure. But the pink vs. orange selvedge seems to be the difference.

The thunderbird design is getting popular - albeit each has been subtly different (jewels, studs and layout) - so Tyler Bryant (of the Shakedown fame) has another: Wickett & Craig harness with nickel plated brass and antique brass hardware; His wife Rebecca (along with her sister) is one half of Larkin Poe who won a Grammy for their album Blood Harmony, so a belt for her: Wickett & Craig bridle with a big ol’ western buckle set and antique nickel hardware;

@indigoeagle this is very helpful. Thank you for sorting these numbers out. Just received the WAREHOUSE Dead Stock Blue "Lot S1001XX (1000XX)" 1946 Model WW2 Model. Bears basically teleported them here to Colorado. After a hot wash, as I do, I found a couple of prominent "creases". Using my washing method. I never get these on any of my jeans. I looked at them more closely and the creases made dark vertical streaks on the denim. This made the crease look darker. Figured it had to be a characteristic of the denim. This is my thigh and you can kind of make out an example of the DSB vertical streak. I'll put some pre as post fit pics later.

Yesterday I: - assembled fly pieces - attached crotch seam (much more cleanly than the last time I might add) - attached front and back together Test fit is perfect too. Added some ease for my thighs and it was a good choice. Also really like how the green serged edges look.

Freenote / McCoys / Equus / Flat Head / Wesco

Cone 55

Beltmaker to the stars, eager for your top end quality product and service 🤩... but don't forget we were your mates first Duke

Konaka-san exaggerates more and more...I think that's one of reason Neat Style dropped CSF (some models were so crazy, you couldn't even use the coin pocket anymore)

Just seen this post on Bear's lg showing the reintroduction of the 1933 model. That cinch strap looks to have travelled south again, looking more like a Lee buckle strap placement now 😅

WTS P23A-DS (XS) BLK 9/10 1100 P23A-S (S) BLK 8.5/10 1300 P23A-S (S) RAF 9/10 1300 P30A-E (S) BLK 9/10 1100 P44-DS (XS) GRY 9/10 950 S8-C (M) BLK 8.5/10 200 S8-DS (S) BLK 8/10 600 S19-DS (S) BLK 8.5/10 450 S23-AK (S) BLK 9/10 450 S27-PR (S) BLK 9.5/10 350 J72-DS (S) RAF 9.5/10 1400 LA10-PX (S) BLK 9.5/10 1400 3A-MZ3-SLV (OS) 8/10 350 3A-1 (OS) BLK 8/10 1250 NTS-NG1 (OS) BLK 100 NG4-PS (OS) RAF 250 FC3-GT (XS) BLK 300 Blazers (US8) MAROON DS 70 *with yellow clip instead of black Pics shortly

I'll upload fit pictures a bit later. They fit great.

Aaaannnddd we have buttons. Had to order shorter rivets otherwise I'd have done those this evening. I think my problems with em last night was because they were too long so the post folded over instead of mushrooming out. Also added a picture of the cuffs because I love this charcoal weft. Crazy that these are wearable, didn't think I'd be this far this soon. @reallypeacedoff I used this guide for the buttons: https://imgur.com/gallery/I4wv5UI the buttons are from Dick's Denim on Etsy, and this is the guide he made for his buttons.

🤣

We are the mighty Sufu!!

Who are you?

@CharlieMike, yes, laundromat washer and tumble dryer.

@Hopethisoneisnttaken for sure. They’re a pain to get in. So once they’re in I don’t ever take them out again haha

@CharlieMike, funny enough, I have exactly that from the contest prize with Signet. Pre-wash/Post-wash & tumble Warehouse Deadstock Blue 1001XX/1000XX 33 Waist: 34” / 31” Front Rise: 13.25” / 12.5” Back Rise: 17” / 16.25” Thigh: 12” / 11.25” Knee: 9.75” / 9.25” Leg Opening: 9” / 8.5” Inseam: 34.75” / 32.25”

@Cold Summer sandlot-core

Astros / Flat Head / Denime / Warehouse / 70s Chucks

Cut my denim up the other day. Spent last night sewing front pockets, yoke seams, back rise seam, and back pockets. Had a lot of fun on the back pockets. My first name is Ryan, so I did a lowercase R for the arcs. Also made a tab outta the same fabric I used for the pocket bags which I think looks sharp. Compensating feet are a game changer. They make it so even a novice garment maker like myself can get professional looking seams. Only wish I could find low shank ones that are wider than 6mm. I used a 3mm one for several seams last night though and it was a dream. Thanks for looking! Oh also, the test pair has belt loops and a hem now too, just needs buttons and rivets and they'll be wearable.

happy birthday @daniel

Got some 714s from the Bears fitting. These are signed and I got some stickers and a mug but maybe these are too short. They're settling a bit but I'm worried that even at one factory wash they will be less than perfect with cold washes and hang dries. 29x30. Actual length is 28.5". I'm a 30" inseam.I do tend to cuff this high, so I'm not sure. Opinions?

And a photo with my 714. Yes, this 714 is really cool. @beautiful_FrEaK For the length fortunately I had seen your post, which showed that it could shrink by about half an inch, I was hesitant with the length 32, that would have been too much short 😅 He still lost 3 cm but it’s okay.

I washed my Resolute 714 for the first time after wearing it for 60 days 😅 Resolute 714 W33 L34: One wash / worn 60 days / 1st wash at 40 degrees Waist: 40.5cm/43cm/40.5cm Front rise: 29 cm / 29.5 cm / 28.75 cm Back rise: 38 cm / 38.5 cm / 37.75 cm Thigh (top): 32 cm / 33 cm / 32 cm Inseam: 81 cm / 81 cm / 78 cm Leg opening: 21.5 cm / 21.5 cm / 21.5 cm It's interesting to see that the measurements haven't changed much except the length, the inseam shrunk by 3 cm between the new jeans (one wash) and the first machine wash. I'm really happy with these jeans, the fit is wonderful, and I think the wash has a lot of potential.

Nothing specific, but if anyone is a size LARGE and wants to chat about potential trades, just drop me a line. I've got a pretty deep collection going back right to the early days, and could always be up for some interesting offers.

Couple more pics

Looks like a pair of jeans now. Waiting on buttons and rivets, but finally able to try them on for real. Little tight in the thighs so I need to add some room there but otherwise pleased. Had a hell of a time on the crotch seam. It kept confusing me and I ended up having to redo it a few times which is why it looks like shit.

got my sz30 1101s washed at 60 degrees coz water comes out at the tap @ 40 in australia waist shrunk 7cm, measures 36cm denim is heaps neppy and soft, but not as soft as banner

Slim Wickett & Craig ‘double stuffed’ (harness) leather with nickel plated brass buckle and copper saddlers rivets

Walpier Buttero Rocky and matte nickel plated brass hardware saddle stitched on