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Heimat Tellason Full Count Trickers

found my ideal fit. S1003XX 1942 model

TFH / RMC / Hollows / TFH / Lofgren resoled by Unsung House.

FW WWII type 1 Runabout sweater FW 1943 Nicks boots

A new project: penknives, made in England on a brass skeleton with nickel bolsters at each end, a carbon steel blade and scales cut from pear wood from a tree in our garden. Here are some pictures of the making process, at a three-person factory. Here's the timber for the scales (sides of the knife handle), left over from some work done on a ~250 year old pear tree in our garden, that was splitting. The timber was seasoned over four years in a dry woodshed, and then inside for the last year, to stabilise it. The first thing to do is to cut it down to size, on a band saw, first into a thin flat slice, and then into individual bars for the scales: thin brass sheet skeleton pieces are then laid on top, and the scales are drilled through the plate, in the places where the rivets will be: A bolster is a metal piece at the junction between the blade an the handle of a knife. It strengthens the joint and smoothes the shape between the two materials. In kitchen knives it also covers the end grain of wooden scales, which could be unhygienic. In a pocket knife, I was a bit concerned about having sharp corners of wood exposed to knocks, so this knife has an additional bolster at the hilt end. These bolsters are pressed out of nickel, and are drilled through the skeleton as well, on either end of the pear wood scales, keeping everything lined up nice and tightly: here's the matching pair all lined up but not yet fastened together: The bolsters are now soldered in place, to hold everything properly aligned before it's all riveted: Next, the back spring is fitted. Pressed out of steel plate, it's drilled out and profiled to match the handle shape: the blade is a deadstock British Army pattern, made in Sheffield of a mid carbon content steel. Low carbon tarnishes less (stainless), but is relatively soft and doesn't hold a sharp edge well. Too high a carbon content and the blade can be brittle- it's very hard and doesn't blunten, but is difficult to sharpen and not really suitable for a general-purpose pocket knife like this: Here's the knife made up on long rivet pins, not yet fixed in place: but for now, the blade is taken back out, and a piece of steel the same thickness is inserted between the scales to stop anything bending, then the bolster and spring rivets are hammered into place the ends and sides of the scales now get the first, rough, sanding to shape them to the brass skeleton now the blade is slotted into place, and another rivet wire is fitted and snipped off The back of the knife is ground down so that it will all line up flat once it's riveted. At this point the blade hasn't been sharpened, so the following processes aren't quite as risky as they look! The snap of the spring can now be tested and the blade shape adjusted if necessary Now the blade rivet is hammered into place, and the scales are rounded off to match the shape of the nickel bolsters finally, the blade is factory-sharpened on a grindstone and the handle is printed, then it's finished! most knife handles would be sealed, but I preferred to leave the wood with just a light oiling- this way it will darken and take on indigo from jeans pockets, over time. I hope this has been interesting! It's been lovely for me to learn about a new craft, and fun to do a post about it- it's been a while, as most of the production techniques for clothing have been covered earlier in the thread. I've had my own knife a couple of months now, and it's looking lovely. Updates as it evolves.

https://we.tl/t-kJM4iwYtC3

I think we already mentioned LEEarth here? If not, have a look: https://www.instagram.com/leearth76?igsh=MWRyYW96NXkzZ3RmbA== These small brands are popping up more and more

Recently picked up the Sugar Cane 1946 from Bears and they just arrived a couple of days ago. I'm pretty impressed with the denim and the details! The only other 46' pair I have is from the Warehouse 25th Anniversary, and those have been one of my favorite pairs over the past few years. I recently moved to a new state that gets a lot less sun than Los Angeles, but I was never much a photographer to begin with.

Post Sunday long run (13.5 miles) hence the miserable face , waiting for the fam to get ready to walk to the pub. Hangry Baracuta 2 x RMC TCB Paraboot

acrdb.com is now available; feel free to grab it if you're interested in building anything acr-related. I believe I owe an explanation regarding it. In short, I sourced and contacted a photographer who worked on the first collections and he had not only the missing FW-0607 season but all the first seasons in their original quality straight from the camera. He was willing to share them with me if Errolson would allow it. He sent an email to Errolson and asked for his permission. After two or three months of waiting, Errolson finally replied and instructed him not to share any photos. He expressed his dislike for old seasons being online, as it could lead to people stealing his designs or whatever. After receiving this response, I decided to take down the website and don't bother anymore.

Selling this pair of Lvc 1937 501xx in a size 34x34 New old stock from February 2003, which l guess makes them vintage (?) The 1937 501xx took over from the 1937 '201xx' (which was made between 1996 and 1999). The first 1937 501xx were first manufactured at the Valencia Street factory in 2002, just before the factory closed for good (these would've had 555 stamped on the buttons). These are the next gen 37's made at the Taylor Toggs plant in 2003 (they have 643M stamped on the waist button). They are in an unwashed and unworn condition, only being briefly tried on a few times. They still have some cotton left on the waistband where the label was and also some reddish lines at the bottom of the side stich - this will come out after a wash as it's only tailor's chalk. I've had this on other pairs from this era with similar marks so no worries. The size is 34 x 34 but as with any item of clothing, please look at the measurements and remember that they are shrink to fit so will probably end up around 33x31.5 after numerous washes. Measurements are as follows- - Waist across = 42cm/16.5" Inseam = 81cm/32" (the high rise makes them a 34) Front rise = 33cm/13" Back rise = 42.5cm/16.75" Thigh (from crotch) = 32.5cm/12.75" Hem across = 24cm/9.5" These 37's are a tad darker when compared with later models made outside the USA, this could be the Cone denim used. Price £250 which includes free worldwide shipping and insurance.

SOLD Freewheelers flannel, size 16. Unsure of the model name, it has a nice double layer of fabric over the elbows. Wonderful flannel. Very good condition. $125 + shipping, OBO.

Selling some Valencia St 201xx's. W34, inseam is hemmed at 30in. They fit like a W31. Waist: 40cm Rise: 30cm Random stain on the right leg on the thigh, from storage I guess, as well as two small paint (?) stains on the left leg by the outside seam. Both should wash out no problem. These are one, maybe two washes in. Pretty rare! $175 plus shipping to your destination, OBO.

I was interested as well, but had to force myself to do a no buy year. * two pockets Tees pre-ordered in Dec. (they don’t really count) * 36x30 pair of 47s when/if they come again Supply Acquisition Beyond Life Expectancy S.A.B.L.E. to fight the urge and fill the time I used to spend shopping, I’m trying to make things now.

@Dr_Heech I'm planning to pass on the 42s mate as I've got a few tuxes on the go as it is. I'd already put an order in for the new SC 43s... though before the actual sizes are announced so we'll see how that turns out. To Duke's point, I kept the same size 34 with the 37s. Yeah they're a big bigger on the waist but jeans soon mould to you anyway and also think it works with the cut. I'm sure the size 33 would be work ok too. Seiichiro is a top man so sure he'll take care of you.

WWII type 1 1943 jeans

@shredwin_206 your next double face work pants? You could unbutton the dirty bits and wear them when you get home mate!

Carhartt/Persol/Patagonia/five brother/pbj ai-003/salewa

Freewheelers (ahoy there!) / Roy / Butcher Products / Freewheelers / Hollows / Lofgren

Got this N1 recently and what a beast of a jacket it is. It's hefty - just weighed it at 2.3kg / 5lb - and warm for sure, in a way that clearly photos can never bring across. At the moment it's wearing me but after a winter or two it'll soften up both in the outer jungle cloth and the alpaca lining. I won't be climbing mountains in it but I will be undertaking important urban manoeuvres in it like going for strolls and coffee and watching football.

@mpukas @Duke Mantee @Broark y’all know who originally was the first one to make jeans for Black Bear right!? The scam artist extraordinaire WH Ranch Dungarees. That’s probably where they got their business model. 😂

Even more pleonasm: … pure virgin Harris Tweed Evergreen plaid wool weaved in Scotland for Black Bear Brand If it’s Harris tweed it must be pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides - not just Scotland generally and the rest of the description is redundant (although there aren’t many virgin sheep up that neck of the woods 😏) Oh - and it’s fucking ‘woven’ not ‘weaved’

Nah I’m all good, already seen it. I’m only interested in the MS exclusives at this point. About 90% of the mass produced stuff from the last 2ish years has been pretty fucking underwhelming bordering on straight up ugly. They need to fire Ian Wang or give him a sub-label or some shit.

Adjustable costume french cyclist jacket

@JMS that's a big clear out of some lovely stuff... shame (or luckily!) not my size

I have to admit, I admire the guy for his determination and vision to create his brand and store, and the brands he collabs with. I'm sure he's an interesting fella that I'd probably get along with if he were my neighbor. But, I f'g hate just about everything about his brand aesthetic. When I first found his brand and looked at some of the collabs, I thought they looked pretty good. But after seeing some of his stunts and relentless bot-email campaign, I'd never spend a dime on his stuff. This is the last I'll deter SuFu with... C'mon, f'g really???!!! He drug his POS vintage bike to the PNW to ride through the forest on a back-road in the rain? And then blather in his blog about how brutal the conditions were? Just to have an existential experience to sell his brand? Really...???!!! You have to read the blog post too (which is almost illegible due to the font color).

Trio of Warehouse denim western shirts. All size 42. SOLD Longhorn style, like new, never worn outside, $75 + shipping. SOLD Hickory stripe, like new, never worn outside, $75 + shipping. Lightweight denim, worn twice, $75, + shipping.

Warehouse Lee-inspired denim jacket with blanket lining. Size 42. The lining has come undone in the back right panel, can be fixed easily. Handful of wears, and very nice details. $125 + shipping, OBO.

Warehouse DSB 1947, the most recent batch. W32 L32. Unfortunately, these shrunk two whole sizes, my mistake is your gain. See photos for waist measurement. Washed high heat and dried high heat, all shrink should be accounted for. Unworn besides the wash and initial fit check. Like new. $150 + shipping, OBO.

Several denim jackets for sale. Old style Fullcount 'Scoville' type 1, size 40. One wash from raw, worn half a dozen times. $125 + shipping. LVCJ type 1, size 40, washed twice worn a good amount. $100 + shipping. SOLD Sugarcane MiUSA 1937 type 1, size 40, one wash from factory, half a dozen wears, gorgeous denim. $125 + shipping. Rare early 2000s Lee 1011 cowboy jacket, size 40, unsure of the # of washes, in very good condition. $175 + shipping. Warehouse pullover jumper, size 40, denim is still crispy. $75 + shipping. Open to your best offer!

Yep, looks like a winner!

Ordered mine from Hinoya too - they took me on an emotional journey. Emailed after I ordered to say they would not be in stock until Wednesday 24th, but have emailed me again today to say they're ready to ship! Great little Monday message!

It's aging nicely, the first wash it bled so much blue my hands looked like I'd been indigo dipping. I'll try and get some photos up in the RMC thread

@Geeman hell no. Too much work to undo all those buttons I’d just leave em dirty. God those are awful

I know it’s not the most popular approach but I always take the same size even when the waist is a little bigger (or smaller) - I’ve found that the small variations just reflect the cut, rather than trying to shoehorn every pair of jeans (and trousers) into finding the ‘perfect’ size/fit.

… and we never even bothered taking the bladder out of the sheep

I gave my 211s a soak. cooooomin along ~

Oh don't you worry, I actually still have sufu open in one of those tabs that I never close! Boy was I confused/happy about that notification icon! In short I'm still in denim, right now on wear day #423 in a pair of Sugar Cane Hawaii, I just went on to other obsessions At first it was photography and I spent ages and €€€ to build up a collection of vintage lenses to use on Sony full frame bodies, and after that I went down the mechanical keyboard rabbit hole. Trying out switches and keycaps like I used to try on jeans and shirts! Happy to see the board is still around and active

Flat Head stuff / Iron Heart belt / Lofgren boots TFH 3005s at six months of real wear time. Giving them a wash soon.

Timbs?! .. Woohoo! the 90s are almost entirely rinsed, thank fuck for that! .. it'll be the 2000s next I can't wait for 2008 when we'll all be briefly fashionable again.. sadly, this time around we'll look like pathetic midlife-crisis fuckers trying to be down with the passive aggressive 00's kids Oh well, it beats our current status of enjoying a very high opinion of our dress sense while being deeply unfashionable

I just sold a 507XX jacket today on eBay and found out the buyer is a costume designer, and the jacket will be used for Ridley season 2 on ITV. Don't know which character will be wearing it but I'll keep my eyes peeled when season 2 is released.

It's all coming together now, it makes so much sense...

Alright, now I'm convinced this brand is just some capital investment brain trust concept trying to market shit to wealthy tech-bros. Thanks, I hate it.

Sorry, but what in the world is this marketing mumbo jumbo...

Denime - Freewheelers - Veja

Selling some jeans that don't fit me (any more) Shipping from BC, Canada Happy to answer any questions, open to offers. 1, Resolute 710 W36L34, never worn, brand new 2. TCB 30'S C, W34, waist 88cm, front rise 32cm, thigh 34cm, inseam 82cm. Never worn outside, 99% brand new. 1937 Model, 14.1 OZ, I love this fabric, smooth and soft. 3. Red Cloud S423XXN, W33: waist 84cm, front rise 32cm, thigh 33.5cm, inseam 80cm, hem 24cm. Worn for about 30 times, machine wash once and then never worn. This is WW2 repo, HBT pockets, solid back pocket rivets.

That was quick (well, also took a long time). 03's arrived today. These are 32's. Good bit of play in the waist raw still. Gonna go for maximum shrinkage on these straight away (whenever that is - honestly probably 2025 or even later). Denim seems a touch grayer and a touch more irregular than on my recent 01's. Lovely details in the stitching compared to my 01's, pocket bags are nice too. Last photo are my 01's in size 31 which I love the fit of in general and are completely comfortable now but I really had to stretch the waist out - which happened in about a few hours of wear. 0A's denim seem to stretch pretty forgivingly - can't be sure with the 03's but it feels similar enough to the 01 that I wouldn't be surprised. I've only worn the 01's a handful of times so far too and I think they will fade relatively quickly...but even these I'm not sure will be in regular rotation until next summer or fall. These are more just to show fit, the light isn't good for showing the denim. In general, this patterning feels a notch above a lot of repro's I've encountered - at least for my frame. We'll see how it all wears with time though.

Flat Head stuff / Iron Heart belt / John Lofgren boots

Denim newsboy Rag&Bone indigo henley Vintage vest Thrift belt with fancy buckle Mister Freedom Outlaw in deadstock Cone Newly resoled Frye Engineer boots And a new ring, made from a vintage stainless steel Batman spoon by Midnight Jo on Etsy (paired with a vintage Mickey Mouse spoon ring.)

Looks like Lvc are doing a 1942 cinchback model too, although imo the yoke is incorrect on this model. The pocket flasher is correct though and they seem to have sorted out the tab and the arcuate shape too - only 20 years too late but this is lvc after all.