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Vintage Denim?


johnmc

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I find a good way to date little e stuff is looking at the back of the rivets. around the early 60's XX through to 70's they used plain thin silver rivets. in 1982 these rivets had a little ring around the edge of the rivet. so check yours and see if there is that post 1982 ring

also top button stamp, the most common is 524 and is early 80's with the little silver ring on the back of rivet ( i have a few pairs, by far the cheapest way to find selvage in your size).

but as paul said the best little e stuff is single stitch with plain silver rivets and a single digit back button number like 6, 2, 8 etc. and they fade much better.

however you do find single digit stamp, double stitched back pockets.

here are litte e examples

60's and 70's with no ring

tumblr_lcea66lDN61qdfd7i.jpg

http://bluegoldblues.com/post/1669931818/1970s-route-66-selvage-levis-501s

and 80's with ring (post 1982)

tumblr_lb0nrefFCb1qdfd7i.jpg

http://bluegoldblues.com/post/1425535920/rhondas-early-1980s-stonewash-double-stitch-501s

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looks like 80s then...

is the story of levis one of progressively poorer quality denim the later you go...? didn't someone say something about them being made from a poly cotton blend in the 70s at some point?

also, does country of origin matter - these are US made...

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looks like 80s then...

is the story of levis one of progressively poorer quality denim the later you go...? didn't someone say something about them being made from a poly cotton blend in the 70s at some point?

also, does country of origin matter - these are US made...

I think the key cutoff date for the 'classic' 501 is 1977, when Cone started to use more sulphur in the dye, so they do fade quicker, more like the current STF. But keep washing to a minimum and they will still look great, the fabric has a charm of its own, very hairy as you've noted. From 83, the warp yarn is OE, too. Poly cotton just refers to the thread with which they're stitched, I can't remember when that changed, maybe 1969 or so, but it's not necessarily a retrograde step.

And good info on the later rivets bgb, ta!

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I think the key cutoff date for the 'classic' 501 is 1977, when Cone started to use more sulphur in the dye, so they do fade quicker, more like the current STF. But keep washing to a minimum and they will still look great, the fabric has a charm of its own, very hairy as you've noted. From 83, the warp yarn is OE, too. Poly cotton just refers to the thread with which they're stitched, I can't remember when that changed, maybe 1969 or so, but it's not necessarily a retrograde step.

And good info on the later rivets bgb, ta!

cheers. i've got them on now, and they feel great. bit baggy (and tbh they have a slight musty smell to them) so i'm going to jump in a hot bath in a bit... that'll be the last time they see water for a bit though. :)

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raw 80s denim seems to be like buses... found a pair of unworn orange tab today for a couple of quid. :D

(think they're 80s anyway - google bought me to this thread which suggests the zipper type was discontinued in the 80s.)

got them on now and the denim feels great. the fit's pretty much perfect too. think they might end up being my jeans for the summer. :cool:

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ok. back in a minute.

edit: not coming out too well on this shitty camera phone... and if there's one thing we don't need, it's slightly out of focus shots of another fucking pair of jeans.. .:D

it's the first pair i've bought in some time that i haven't had to turn up, which feels a bit odd...

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does anyone know if LEVI's ever use poly-core-cotton-wrapped thread on their earlier models (50s-80s) ? Or they was always using 100% cotton thread ?

AFAIK Levi's used cotton thread until c.1965, then the poly-cotton thread was used.

I dont think they used poly-core-cotton-wrapped thread, although I could be wrong.

Paul T is definately the man to ask!

.

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His old pair looked beautiful but as someone who used to waer vintage, I think his could be easily be equalled by a pair of the LVC repros - and for me there's a pleasure wearing in from new.

More pics of that eBay pair, from the LVC thread:

Check out the beautifully scrappy stitching on the crotch, and also the unique look of the rivets. And of course I love the pocket bag stampings, which we alos have on the nippers' late 60s 302.

interiorh.jpg

And more photos, so we don't lose them. We can see how the 2-horse patch is very close indeed to the repro. But look how unusual the stitching is, two lines on some side, running short on others. I wonder if the next example along on the produciton line was completely different?

patchnk.jpg

And also the 'feel' of the pocket stitching. Note how the interior line curves in around the hidden rivets, and is more curved on the rights hand side of the pocket than the left!

pocketsp.jpg

(Edit:Incidentally, I can tell the colour on these is off - the vendor underexposed, I've managed to get some detail back but they're over-sharpened, which gives a different look. The first photo (above, with the patch) gives the most accurate impression of the denim itself.)

fulllenght.jpg

crotch.jpg

Again, note how "freestyle" the stitching round the rivets is It varies a little at all four sites and is quite wobbly. Not also where the lines of he yokes meet in the middle - there is no 'stagger' as you'll get on 1947 Levi's, which is the most beautiful construction. Here, the two lines of yoke sitching run into each other, on the 47 one would sit above the other, which actually means the yoke is perfeclty symmetrical. Here, the yoke is slightly deeper on the right than on the left.

bumyo.jpg

Here are my 40s LVC as a comparison. I think it gets the feel very well - I would really like to see them introduce rayon red tags which scrunch up and get distorted like the originals.

19443.jpg

1944.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

found some weird wrangler copys on the bootmarket this morning - only info i can find about them online is from someone selling a pair on ebay claiming they're from the 1950s - doubt this is true, they look newer than that... any thoughts? more pics to follow later...

it's fairly rough heavy denim, no selvedge. will try to squeeze into them tonight - not sure if i can manage a 28 inch waist anymore...

utf-8BSU1HMDA0OTQtMjAxMTA1MDMtMDkzNS5qcGc.jpg

utf-8BSU1HMDA0OTMtMjAxMTA1MDMtMDkzNS5qcGc.jpg

utf-8BSU1HMDA0OTUtMjAxMTA1MDMtMDkzNi5qcGc.jpg

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They are brilliant!

Tek-Sac were my first jeans when I was a kid.

I'm really stoked to see a pair again.

I don't when they stopped producing them killer b. but you could buy them in 'Army stores' in the early-mid 60s.

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