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Guys,

We have received our Lost & Found and Werkstatt:Munchen collections for this season at Parable and everything is online. We are expecting Incarnation on Monday, followed by Lume et Umbra and Silent shortly after.

You can see on the blog that we are offering a 10% discount to SZ members - I am happy to extend the same offer to you guys, so just shoot me a PM or email via the website for details.

WMAW2011.jpg

And of course, if you have any comments or suggestions please let us know.

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Any Australians interested in some vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial Wingtips in 10A? Scotchgrain and v-cleat heels; could be over thirty years old and are still virtually unworn. $150 shipped.

Thought I'd put it up to some locals first before I went to supermarket/ebay. Don't hesitate to PM for pictures or anything else.

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recenty, i've had the opp to handle a few pieces. every piece i picked up seemed very substantial. there seems to be a certain ease/simplicity that i like about this brand. the price points are low enough for a first time leather jacket purchase too. unfortunately, i could not try anything on as they were all bigger sizes. i'm hoping this brand keeps their accounts tight, or else i can see it becoming a brand like BACKLASH

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Good to see you posting.

It appears that Keita has a good head on his shoulders. And he has hopefully learned a thing or two about business from his previous experiences and positions.

You are right about the leather too, substantial is a good way of putting it. The calf skin used on the double zip and shirt is particularly substantial, and has that great oily feel similar to the oiled calf used by RO in Crust.

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We are covering 44-48 generally speaking. That obviously changes depending on the piece and our read of the market. The labels also impact this. Lost & Found for instance only offered Small and up for AW, and the small fits like a slim 48. They are, however, offering an XS from summer onwards.

And custom orders/size-specific pre-orders are more than welcome.

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A lot of the LUC classics are there in amazing fabrics: coated denim j-pants, silk tussah suit jacket, paper suit jacket, screen-printed t-shirts, scarf-collar jacket. Cold dyeing makes an appearance across a number of materials and is utilised really beautifully - a slightly more subtle exploration than say Boris.

There is also an optical fibre which reacts under UV light and is used to carry the theme of 'waves' through to a new depth. The fibre is more often undetectable to the naked eye and can only been seen under UV. The use of the fibre is also used to enhance the already stunning knitting techniques used by Luca.

If there is anything you would like to know more about just send me an email or PM.

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Not a big poster on SuFu but thought I would add my thoughts on this new line. I handled a few pieces of the SS11 collection at LIFT last month and thought some of the designs were really good. Quality seemed to be high and the leather itself was great. I was told by the SA that only some pieces in stock used Guidi leather so I'm not sure if this carried over to the FW11 collection as well?

From the new collection, the double layer looks great and the price points are reasonable compared to other more established lines. Has the sizing been adjusted in the FW11 collection as the SS11 was sized at least 1 size small than marked?

Oh I'm glad you guys are carrying L&F...a line that has caught my eye and I've been wanting a few pieces to try but never can find it in my size.

We have finally got the Incarnation pictures up online at Parable. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on the pieces.

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All the leather used this season is from Guidi, and the pieces that are garment dyed are done so in the Guidi factory.

The sizing is still on the small side with a large equivalent approximately to a 48. This has been slightly adjusted for next season, where the cuts are a little more generous.

As for pricing, we have done a lot of work ourselves and kept the overheads down as much as possible which allows us to keep the prices down. All you need to do is compare the Incarnation prices to other retailers to see the range out there. And of course we are happy to match prices!

I do think that Keita has developed his own style over his few seasons, and it is one which doesn't afford him a great deal of manoeuvrability as far as 'vision' or 'concept' go. But I am sure we will see his signature become more apparent. It will be interesting to see things progress.

He has developed his own denim with a Japanese mill for next season which is very nice and is used in both denim jackets and jeans.

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just to be clear tho, i do not see a need every creator should conform their romantic narratives into visual aesthetic, or in construction. nor i think they even should have one. it gets too superficial sometimes.. same way i feel for ccp.

with so many akin choices of leather jackets available out there - quality product, looks good, etc etc. (at times, i fancy isaac sellam, giorgio brato..) so it's a question i ask myself, why choose them..? what am i subscribing to?

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You raise a good point about designers translating, or not translating, their romantic narratives into visual aesthetic, and one which I believe to be true also.

I suppose it is easier for me to speak with reference to Incarnation, especially as a buyer. In choosing to stock Incarnation we had a lot of things to consider because as you say, there are a lot of nice leather jackets out there. And it is also important to remember that both Lost & Found and Lumen produce leathers, and Forme D also does. So we needed to consider whether it was worth bringing in a label such as Incarnation.

The choice ultimately came down to firstly aesthetic, then style or vision (or however you would like to label a designers signature aesthetic), material, quality, value and of course all the business aspects which remain largely behind the scenes on forums such as this.

This was a clear choice for us having handled incarnation, brato, sellam and Julius etc. We don't expect everybody to feel the same way but hopefully this sheds a little light on the thought process.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, I have a pair of Ann D SS07 boots for sale in the market place and it is currently listed on eBay Australia.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ann-Demeulemeester-SS07-Boot-Julius-Saberi-Viridi-Anne-/290601112959?pt=AU_Men_Shoes&hash=item43a92d157f

If anyone from Perth is interested, PM me and you can inspect/try on in person. Looking for AU$450.

Also have a Vincent&Vincent sz46 Neck Strap Bomber and sz48 Work Jacket both in black vegetable tanned nappa for sale. http://www.vincentandvincent.com.au/men

The bomber is listed on eBay at a starting price of $360. Feel free to make offers on any of these items.

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Sorry for the separate posts but also selling a pair of the black suede CP Desert Boots in a sz44. AU$250 no signs of wear. Not listed on eBay yet.

http://www.benbarren.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/common-desert.jpg

Interest check also on a BBS charcoal leather bag. It's like the one in the pic below in the large size. Asking for AU$1,200.

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/9500/borisss201009240x159.jpg

Let me know if you would like photos of the actual item or more deets!

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