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edc [everyday carry] shaved my wife


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infidel is a total waste of money BUT if you really want one no matter where you go you're going to end up spending 300 or more, which is just ridiculous

poor lock up (wtf why would i pay for blade play) are you serious? i would much rather pay the same cost and get myself a titanium framelock ala chris reeve sebenze, zero tolerance, or strider

(granted a strider may be a tad more expensive than the BM, but it will last you 10x as long)

ive also heard the springs that launch the blade wear out mad quick...i guess the only beneficial thing is that benchmade will fix it for life...god damn right they better if im paying 300+ for OTF knife

not a total waste of money...but it is kinda pricey for what you get. mine had a little blade play. most OTFs do.

as to where i got it, i got mine on a forum. check out

jerzeedevil.com

benchmadeforum.com

bladeforum.com

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It's hilarious what people think are awesome in knives until they actually own the knife. Having owned an 3300 Infidel, I can say it's pretty useless. It's nifty but the blade play was a pain in the ass and having to clean and make sure the OTF system didn't get jammed.

You know what's scarier than an OTF blade? A fixed blade like say a fairbairn sykes...

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will let you guys know what it's for soon!

thanks for letting me know 35%, i'll add surefire.

either: a) he wants to have the most SuFu-approved EDC himself or B) he is doing R&D and is gonna wholesale buy and put together an all-in-one EDC kit and sell it at a giant mark-up to all the EDC noobs and make a billionty million dollars.

... i was up in portland visiting my brother for the weekend and while we were riding around town he got a flat tire. i was really bummed i didn't have a tire repair kit. anybody got a good one? the smaller the better i think.... ...

DISCLAIMER: if you don't EDR (err day ride) a bike or don't care about bikes, proceed to next post.

<<< long-time bike racer/bike person here. as far as fixing flats, there are several things you need. first is a way to get tire off if it is stubborn and yo have soft hands. that means something thin but smooth like a tire lever (included in lots of bike multi-tools) or a screwdriver that has been smoothed with a file. then, you need either a new tube or a way to make your old punctured/pinched/slashed/otherwise-busted tube hold air. the latter means a patch kit or some of that sealant. of those two, a glueless patch kit is the easiest way to go. of all of those options, a tube is the easiest, most-failproof and user-friendly. then, you gotta deal with getting air into the said tire. that means either compressed CO2 or a pump. CO2 means buy a non-threaded CO2 dispenser and that you gotta shell money for cartridges (can be had cheaply from wal-mart or similar, don't get ripped off at a bike shop), but with threadless, you lost a little bit on weight and size of just having a threaded CO2 gun head. for pumps, there are frame pumps (always on your bike when you need it (but can be stolen if you live in city/probably not cool for all you fixsters out there) and then there are pocketable pumps. i use a small planet bike one that has good pressure up to 120 (highest tires need to go on any bike ever, except track or TT bikes, but this isn't practical for you fixsters out there) and better yet, fits in my jersey pocket.

so, for carry-ability, the best options are glueless patches rubberbanded to a threaded CO2 cartridge and threaded CO2 gun head and some tire levers. for ease of use, a girthy frame pump, some bulky plastic or stainless steel tire levers and a spare tube are the bees knees. add a multitool and this is my long ride/winter training setup. when i am training shorter/commuting, i carry a pedros multitool complete with tire levers, a spare tube, and a pocketable hand pump.</longbikenerdery>

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sry for b2b posts, but...

http://www.bemeyers.com/index.php?option=com_product&catid=36&id=12&Itemid=53

my twin brother who is in the army/more badass than me sends me this link. i ask him if he thinks i could daily carry and

you could swing it, I think. it is 8 inches long and weighs about a pound. better for tactical carry on a vest or in a bag than in your skinny jeans though... unless you want to walk around looking like you have an erection.

lawl

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It's hilarious what people think are awesome in knives until they actually own the knife. Having owned an 3300 Infidel, I can say it's pretty useless. It's nifty but the blade play was a pain in the ass and having to clean and make sure the OTF system didn't get jammed.

You know what's scarier than an OTF blade? A fixed blade like say a fairbairn sykes...

useless for being a user. awesome for a toy. mine did not have any problems with the OTF system and i probably fired it about 500 times.

oh and are you using that 527 i got you in the superswap?!??!

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If the blade is under 2", he's fine.

Most states classify it as a switchblade, might be legal but check local laws.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switchblade

meh.

sry for b2b posts, but...

http://www.bemeyers.com/index.php?option=com_product&catid=36&id=12&Itemid=53

my twin brother who is in the army/more badass than me sends me this link. i ask him if he thinks i could daily carry and

lawl

ATPIAL is better and more practical. Also, if you need a laser on your RIFLE to intimidate someone, you're doing it wrong. http://www.insightlights.com/products-atpial.htm

http://www.insighttechnology.com/InsightAimandIllum.html

Smith and Wesson pen is on its way to me, I'll do a review when I get it.

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useless for being a user. awesome for a toy. mine did not have any problems with the OTF system and i probably fired it about 500 times.

oh and are you using that 527 i got you in the superswap?!??!

hehe yeah. I really like it. Almost a little more than my 585. Normal axis lock means I can close it faster than the 585 and open it up almost as fast.

However, lack of a combo-edge(I feel like I'm the only person in the world to use it) means I still use the 585 as my EDC and the 527 is usually a back-up I lend to my friend to use.

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Not my usual use of the light.... Came in handy at dinner last night when the lighting was too dim to read the menu & wine list!

[pick-charr]

My friends suddenly think my EDC is cool! :D

not necessarily a bad thing, but my grandpa does that.

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in that pic your light looks like its too bright, but i know cameras fail at capturing beamshots correctly haha.

it reminds me of my sister blinding herself when she grabbed my flashlight to read something but it was set to turbo mode first B)

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After realizing I only use 3 of my keys on a daily basis, I decided to make another, slimmer, key holder. I thought it would a good idea to document the process in photos for anybody who is feeling the diy urge to make their own.

Step 1: Materials needed

Donor tool (in this case, a $5 Winchester multi tool from Walmart)

Copies of your keys (you should be able to fit 4 keys using this tool)

T8 torx driver (to disassemble this particular tool)

Dremel w/ cut-off wheel and sanding drum

Bench vise

Drill

*Loctite

*File

*Brewskis

*optional

4328872727_e6c3e22fa4.jpg

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This little guy actually has a nice assortment of tools, although it does feel a bit cheap compared to a Leatherman. But that doesn't matter, because we'll be taking it apart now.

Step 2: Disassembly

4328872621_85eb30bfb1.jpg

Using the t8 torx bit, you should have no problem disassembling the multi tool. Be sure not to lose the bolts and washers, as you will be using these later. This tool is much easier to disassemble than the Leatherman Micra that I used for my first variation of a keyholder.

Step 3: Cutting the keys

4328872581_2cfd9ec348.jpg

Time to cut the keys. You'll want to clamp the key down in your bench vise and have your dremel ready with the cut-off wheel. Don't go too crazy and chop the whole top right off. I generally cut it straight off at the keyring hole and down the sides. Leave enough length for now, you just want to get a rough shape of how it'll be.

4328872545_882483114d.jpg

Now you want to clean up your cuts with the sanding wheel and a file. You want the keys to sit flat in the tool, so take your time with this.

4329608086_babb3c6d7d.jpg

Ultimately, this is what you want the keys to look like (ignore the hole in the bottom key... that was the key that was covered in plastic in the previous picture). I used one of the tools that I removed from the multitool as a template to round the ends and grind the notches. So basically, place the tool over the key and mark where you will be drilling the hole. Clamp the key and the tool together in the vise and use the sanding drum to round the edges to match. The file will also help to make the notches. Getting this right will ensure the keys lock into place the same way that the tools originally did.

Finally, mark the holes again and drill.

Step 4: Mock up

4328872389_5dd7a13a79.jpg

The tool was longer than it needed to be, so I decided to chop off the tapered end since it was of no use to me. I rounded it off with the dremel and filed it smooth.

4328872341_9f81b881b0.jpg

Upon test fit, I realized the notches should be deeper to make it easier to access the keys. I grinded the notches down a bit and smoothed it out.

Step 5: Re-assembly

4328872317_a5c285db98.jpg

On mine, I have 3 keys and the bottle opener from the original tool. Between each key you'll probably want to put a washer so that the keys open smoothly and don't rub on one another. It's a bit tricky to get the washers in there, but keep trying, you'll eventually get it.

If you have it laying around, you may want to put a dab of blue loctite on the screws threads so that they don't loosen up on you down the road. I didn't have any, so I used a little clear nail polish, heh.

Hope this helps anybody who is considering making their own.

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^ any local mom n' pop kinda locksmith can do this for you

big chains like walmart or hardware stores like lowes and home depot won't duplicate do not copy keys. at my local privately owned locksmith i paid around $2 for housekeys and $6 for my do not duplicate key.

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