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check out dior homme. the combat boots, the slim fit jeans with the large cuffs, combat boots, thin white tshirts, suspenders!

not to mention the totenkopfs (ss skulls) and SS lightning bolt derived graphics. This shit is pushing the boundaries. It reminds me of that original HB drawing with the dude wearing a swastika

Edited by lyingonyourdriveway on Feb 16, 2006 at 09:00 PM

Edited by lyingonyourdriveway on Feb 16, 2006 at 09:55 PM

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Quote: check out dior homme. the combat boots, the slim fit jeans with the large cuffs, combat boots, thin white tshirts, suspenders!

dude you're nuts. hedi slimane derives most of his collections from music scenes in some way, but you've never heard oi or skin punk (working class genres of music), i'm guessing. yes they wear boots, braces and skinny jeans but there's also flight jackets, fp polos, and they definitely wouldn't be caught dead in a black/white checkered jacket or TIES. i get bummed when people think skinheads are all defacto nazis.

that whole collection's based on british pop mod look, you're way off the mark with your brilliant skinhead generalizations. new wave and pete doherty and all that.

Edited by canice on Feb 16, 2006 at 10:12 PM

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Well, there's a huge difference between runway/editorial fashion and mainstream/retail fashion.

Mainstream/Retail Fashion will only go as far as the market will go. As long as people stay buying and stay responding to the ideas, image, and trends it'll just keep going. No one was buying $100 jeans 5-10 years ago, Luxury brand denims from the 1990s were just verging over the $100 limit. Now it's a common establishment that premium/designer denim has to start at 100~ and luxury denim cost just as much as a tailored suit now.

Runway/Editorial Fashion is insane. How far will it go? However far someone can think. Comme Des Garcons, designer Rei is pushing it on another level - did you see that pink panther line from last year? That shit was just plain silly, who in the right mind would ever buy that. However it makes for great Runway design. The Dior Hommes WWII reference stuff was another example of it, but in reality theres at least one or two designers a year who really push the whole german soilder fashion design stuff. Alexander McQueen & Dolce have both put out series recently with in the last few years that reference that era.

I'm mostly dissapointed in the "Street" wear/brand/culture designers for not really trying to think outside of the mainstream. Since most of these brands are all about "ANTI-ESTABLISHMNET." Only people I see really doing unusual stuff is Leroy Jenkins and Artful Dodger (I know theres more, so don't be like oh you ain't seen x,y,z.) Smaller botique brands are doing cool stuff to but it's not really stand out, i.e. Surface2Air & The Craft.

Maybe alot of these "garage" labels will up the ante for fashion, since we're all becoming more fashion conscience. We all want to be unique and still tasteful.

www.baskew.com

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though not necessarily high fashion, when you talked about 'nazi' influences and American History X (amazing movie)

sl2.jpg

the fact that someone will wear something like that i think is pretty ridiculous. a foot stomping someone's face? kill your local drug dealer? the intentions are ridiculously one track of mind-- that America's drug problem can be dealt with through violence? there are other shirts talking about bringing back prohibition. the fact that someone wholeheartedly believes in something (or against something) and suggests something that was historically more problematic than our current situation... reminds me of nazis in a lot of ways.

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Well, there's a huge difference between runway/editorial fashion and mainstream/retail fashion.

Mainstream/Retail Fashion will only go as far as the market will go. As long as people stay buying and stay responding to the ideas, image, and trends it'll just keep going. No one was buying $100 jeans 5-10 years ago, Luxury brand denims from the 1990s were just verging over the $100 limit. Now it's a common establishment that premium/designer denim has to start at 100~ and luxury denim cost just as much as a tailored suit now.

Runway/Editorial Fashion is insane. How far will it go? However far someone can think. Comme Des Garcons, designer Rei is pushing it on another level - did you see that pink panther line from last year? That shit was just plain silly, who in the right mind would ever buy that. However it makes for great Runway design. The Dior Hommes WWII reference stuff was another example of it, but in reality theres at least one or two designers a year who really push the whole german soilder fashion design stuff. Alexander McQueen & Dolce have both put out series recently with in the last few years that reference that era.

I'm mostly dissapointed in the "Street" wear/brand/culture designers for not really trying to think outside of the mainstream. Since most of these brands are all about "ANTI-ESTABLISHMNET." Only people I see really doing unusual stuff is Leroy Jenkins and Artful Dodger (I know theres more, so don't be like oh you ain't seen x,y,z.) Smaller botique brands are doing cool stuff to but it's not really stand out, i.e. Surface2Air & The Craft.

Maybe alot of these "garage" labels will up the ante for fashion, since we're all becoming more fashion conscience. We all want to be unique and still tasteful.

--- Original message by baskew on Feb 16, 2006 10:14 PM

last time i checked, a tailored suit cost $2000 and up, and luxury denim $200-500 not counting bespoke 45rpm

''I'm a street-walking cheetah with a heart full of napalm/i'm a runaway son of the nuclear A-bomb/I am the world's forgotten boy/The one who searches and destroys''...James Jewel Osterberg

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though not necessarily high fashion, when you talked about 'nazi' influences and American History X (amazing movie)

sl2.jpg

the fact that someone will wear something like that i think is pretty ridiculous. a foot stomping someone's face? kill your local drug dealer? the intentions are ridiculously one track of mind-- that America's drug problem can be dealt with through violence? there are other shirts talking about bringing back prohibition. the fact that someone wholeheartedly believes in something (or against something) and suggests something that was historically more problematic than our current situation... reminds me of nazis in a lot of ways.

--- Original message by dystaind on Feb 17, 2006 06:48 AM

i don't condone these shirts but straight edge has absolutely fucking nothing to do with neonazism. shut er down, this thread is a mess.
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Well, there's a huge difference between runway/editorial fashion and mainstream/retail fashion.

Mainstream/Retail Fashion will only go as far as the market will go. As long as people stay buying and stay responding to the ideas, image, and trends it'll just keep going. No one was buying $100 jeans 5-10 years ago, Luxury brand denims from the 1990s were just verging over the $100 limit. Now it's a common establishment that premium/designer denim has to start at 100~ and luxury denim cost just as much as a tailored suit now.

Runway/Editorial Fashion is insane. How far will it go? However far someone can think. Comme Des Garcons, designer Rei is pushing it on another level - did you see that pink panther line from last year? That shit was just plain silly, who in the right mind would ever buy that. However it makes for great Runway design. The Dior Hommes WWII reference stuff was another example of it, but in reality theres at least one or two designers a year who really push the whole german soilder fashion design stuff. Alexander McQueen & Dolce have both put out series recently with in the last few years that reference that era.

I'm mostly dissapointed in the "Street" wear/brand/culture designers for not really trying to think outside of the mainstream. Since most of these brands are all about "ANTI-ESTABLISHMNET." Only people I see really doing unusual stuff is Leroy Jenkins and Artful Dodger (I know theres more, so don't be like oh you ain't seen x,y,z.) Smaller botique brands are doing cool stuff to but it's not really stand out, i.e. Surface2Air & The Craft.

Maybe alot of these "garage" labels will up the ante for fashion, since we're all becoming more fashion conscience. We all want to be unique and still tasteful.

--- Original message by baskew on Feb 16, 2006 10:14 PM

last time i checked, a tailored suit cost $2000 and up, and luxury denim $200-500 not counting bespoke 45rpm

--- Original message by RobbertJan on Feb 17, 2006 06:51 AM

even evisu has jeans that go over 1,000$ theres a few labels out there that sell for that much. HL private label stuff is well over that... Gucci Genuis jeans are around 3,000$ and Escada Denim well... thats just on some ol' retarded shit...

again, retail denim is anywhere between 2-500~ thats what you call "luxury" denim. It's not really that luxurious, its just about labels, advertising, and trends and what makes you feel good as a consumer.

So yes, Denim can cost more then a tailored suit.

No people were not buying $100+ jeans 5-10 years ago. (Don't mistake this for it not exisiting, people just weren't shelling it out on the level they are now.)

This pseudo denim hype is something thats only really happened in the last 5 years on a RETAIL level. Do you realize how many "new" denim brands have entered the market, even on a male only side because of this denim hype? Tons, theres a new brand everytime I go into saks with a sign that says "NEXT GREAT THING."

www.baskew.com

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though not necessarily high fashion, when you talked about 'nazi' influences and American History X (amazing movie)

sl2.jpg

the fact that someone will wear something like that i think is pretty ridiculous. a foot stomping someone's face? kill your local drug dealer? the intentions are ridiculously one track of mind-- that America's drug problem can be dealt with through violence? there are other shirts talking about bringing back prohibition. the fact that someone wholeheartedly believes in something (or against something) and suggests something that was historically more problematic than our current situation... reminds me of nazis in a lot of ways.

--- Original message by dystaind on Feb 17, 2006 06:48 AM

So instead of ranting about gangs and drug cartels, which kill hundreds in a month, you're mad at some angsty kid who found a funny shirt? Let's go back to some history 101:

The Nazis attempted genocide on a RACE not a way of life. Neo-Nazis are fucking ignorant followers who still believe America holds some sort of mythical hegemony and took the concept of hating jews and applied it to the modern day minority - african americans. Skins who wear bracers and boots have nothing to do with Hammerskins or any other sect of neo x-isms.

Perhaps your argument could be better summed up as:

"HOLY SHIT this dude wants to kill people. He is just like (insert any fucking regime from 1000BCE to today)! Damn those Egyptians! Fucking Romans! Goddamn Christians!" All of these could be compared to the Nazis.

Stereotyping discrimination has run hand in hand with violance and been around since man. It isn't going anywhere.

To get this shit back on topic, I find streetwear to be entirely uninspired. It's great that you can mimic hiphop culture and add a skater flare to it but why not actually put some thought into things. Hurr look at this exciting new color of nike's i bought, they are amazing look it has blue not green! Granted, fashion is all about herd mentality, but look at the majority of posters in the What are you wearing today thread - uniformed.

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Quote: To get this shit back on topic, I find streetwear to be entirely uninspired. It's great that you can mimic hiphop culture and add a skater flare to it but why not actually put some thought into things. Hurr look at this exciting new color of nike's i bought, they are amazing look it has blue not green! Granted, fashion is all about herd mentality, but look at the majority of posters in the What are you wearing today thread - uniformed.

Yup.

www.baskew.com

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this thread makes my brain bleed

--- Original message by coolhunter on Feb 17, 2006 08:49 AM

Ditto. What was that last "Streetwear is uninspired" rant about anyway? Sure, I don't like all the combos in the "What are you wearing now" thread either, but I attribute that to the population on this forum skewing young, and still trying to put together their own look.

As for the 'herd" menality, that permeates pretty much every level of the fashion industry. At the designer level, there is a "military" season, followed by a "western" season, followed by a few 'tailored" seasons, and everyone does their take on it. At the streetwear level, take a look at Barking Irons and Rogues Gallery tees, and, taking away the "Barking Irons" symbol, could you really tell the difference between the lines? And what is the difference between Drifter, Salvage and Unholy Grail, except the extent to which they suck. There are very few labels that can keep their stuff original - one of the reasons that I like Spruce more than Wings and Horns. I know that it is probably a coincidence that one of their S/S shirts looks like something Surface to Air would do, but the similarity is nevertheless there.

Labels that I think have kept their integrity:

1. Engineered Garments (Nepenthes NYC) good quality, and instead of being just being "inspired" by Americana, Daiki actively seeks out the real deal (original manufacturers) and gets them to do his idea of pieces

2. In a similar vein, Junya Watanabe men. I thought that his collaboration with Lewis leathers was genius

3. Adidas - sure, they are digging into their archives like everyone else, but they are working hard to make their old stuff new and fresh, instead of just making the same stuff in whack colorways (oh, see Nike).

4. C.P. Company - the original "smart" casualwear line. Keeping the clean silhouettes and cool materials since day one.

5. 6876 - this guy has based his line on a clean, slightly boxy silhouette and use of interesting materials from day one, with some "terrace" influence. No compromise.

6. Baltazar (belts) - hey, Goose really bikes, and his designs have pretty much stayed the same since day one. It's not his fault that Paris Hilton has suddenly found his stuff appealing.

7. Chrome Hearts - not my deal, but this is the company that gave rise to all things skulls and Gothic/punk imagery. Let the pretenders keep pretending.

8. Giorgio Armani - Greige colorway, deconstructed pieces in drapey fabrics. You may not like his stuff, but give the man respect.

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yo kids, sorry bout the confusion. i'm not trying to relate straightedge as 'neo nazis'. i was trying to draw attention to ignorance about issues such as prohibition and making mistakes that were already made.

my point was along the lines of that proverb. i can't remember the line exactly, but it was along the lines of:

those who do not learn from the past are doomed to repeat it

in my mind, straight edge can be a beautiful thing. so can faith. yes they are taken in extreme contexts in some ways and the worst of which is a closed mind that ignores all context of history. prohibition for example cost us lots of things. instead of lowering alcohol consumption, it actually raised it. people went to extremes to obtain the stuff, even boarding boats to canada to grab whiskey and ot sell it on the black market. in some ways this can be related to our drug war, which is a siphon for US dollars and the number of drug users in our nation is constantly increasing (as opposed to decreasing, which our government promises us when we spend more money into this war)

i'm sorry this has gotten off the topic of 'fashion'. i just got a bit incensed by the whole relating fashion to neo-nazi'ism and American history X and could only think of this straight edge shirt which incensed me. dont' get me wrong, i follow all the tenets of having a straight edge lifestyle-- the only difference is i don't call myself straight edge. primarily because of the ugly thing it can devolve into when people become exclusive and closed minded in thought just becaues of a label.

once again i'm sorry to bring up a whole moral debate on a fashion forum, i promise i'll drop the issue now. i just hope i made my points clear. i'm not trying to accuse street fashion, or straight edge, or Ralph Lauren of being nazis in any way, i'm just saying some people need to educate themselves and realize the values of history and human lives.

i'm done i promise...

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Quote:
Quote:

Well, there's a huge difference between runway/editorial fashion and mainstream/retail fashion.

Mainstream/Retail Fashion will only go as far as the market will go. As long as people stay buying and stay responding to the ideas, image, and trends it'll just keep going. No one was buying $100 jeans 5-10 years ago, Luxury brand denims from the 1990s were just verging over the $100 limit. Now it's a common establishment that premium/designer denim has to start at 100~ and luxury denim cost just as much as a tailored suit now.

Runway/Editorial Fashion is insane. How far will it go? However far someone can think. Comme Des Garcons, designer Rei is pushing it on another level - did you see that pink panther line from last year? That shit was just plain silly, who in the right mind would ever buy that. However it makes for great Runway design. The Dior Hommes WWII reference stuff was another example of it, but in reality theres at least one or two designers a year who really push the whole german soilder fashion design stuff. Alexander McQueen & Dolce have both put out series recently with in the last few years that reference that era.

I'm mostly dissapointed in the "Street" wear/brand/culture designers for not really trying to think outside of the mainstream. Since most of these brands are all about "ANTI-ESTABLISHMNET." Only people I see really doing unusual stuff is Leroy Jenkins and Artful Dodger (I know theres more, so don't be like oh you ain't seen x,y,z.) Smaller botique brands are doing cool stuff to but it's not really stand out, i.e. Surface2Air & The Craft.

Maybe alot of these "garage" labels will up the ante for fashion, since we're all becoming more fashion conscience. We all want to be unique and still tasteful.

--- Original message by baskew on Feb 16, 2006 10:14 PM

last time i checked, a tailored suit cost $2000 and up, and luxury denim $200-500 not counting bespoke 45rpm

--- Original message by RobbertJan on Feb 17, 2006 06:51 AM

even evisu has jeans that go over 1,000$ theres a few labels out there that sell for that much. HL private label stuff is well over that... Gucci Genuis jeans are around 3,000$ and Escada Denim well... thats just on some ol' retarded shit...

again, retail denim is anywhere between 2-500~ thats what you call "luxury" denim. It's not really that luxurious, its just about labels, advertising, and trends and what makes you feel good as a consumer.

So yes, Denim can cost more then a tailored suit.

No people were not buying $100+ jeans 5-10 years ago. (Don't mistake this for it not exisiting, people just weren't shelling it out on the level they are now.)

This pseudo denim hype is something thats only really happened in the last 5 years on a RETAIL level. Do you realize how many "new" denim brands have entered the market, even on a male only side because of this denim hype? Tons, theres a new brand everytime I go into saks with a sign that says "NEXT GREAT THING."

--- Original message by baskew on Feb 17, 2006 08:34 AM

exactly what you said about denim 5 years ago can be said about the jeans you mentioned that are ubelievably high priced.

yeah, theyre around. but are people really buying them?

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though not necessarily high fashion, when you talked about 'nazi' influences and American History X (amazing movie)

sl2.jpg

the fact that someone will wear something like that i think is pretty ridiculous. a foot stomping someone's face? kill your local drug dealer? the intentions are ridiculously one track of mind-- that America's drug problem can be dealt with through violence? there are other shirts talking about bringing back prohibition. the fact that someone wholeheartedly believes in something (or against something) and suggests something that was historically more problematic than our current situation... reminds me of nazis in a lot of ways.

--- Original message by dystaind on Feb 17, 2006 06:48 AM

So instead of ranting about gangs and drug cartels, which kill hundreds in a month, you're mad at some angsty kid who found a funny shirt? Let's go back to some history 101:

The Nazis attempted genocide on a RACE not a way of life. Neo-Nazis are fucking ignorant followers who still believe America holds some sort of mythical hegemony and took the concept of hating jews and applied it to the modern day minority - african americans. Skins who wear bracers and boots have nothing to do with Hammerskins or any other sect of neo x-isms.

Perhaps your argument could be better summed up as:

"HOLY SHIT this dude wants to kill people. He is just like (insert any fucking regime from 1000BCE to today)! Damn those Egyptians! Fucking Romans! Goddamn Christians!" All of these could be compared to the Nazis.

Stereotyping discrimination has run hand in hand with violance and been around since man. It isn't going anywhere.

To get this shit back on topic, I find streetwear to be entirely uninspired. It's great that you can mimic hiphop culture and add a skater flare to it but why not actually put some thought into things. Hurr look at this exciting new color of nike's i bought, they are amazing look it has blue not green! Granted, fashion is all about herd mentality, but look at the majority of posters in the What are you wearing today thread - uniformed.

--- Original message by verb on Feb 17, 2006 08:40 AM

Street fashion is about differenciating yourself from the majority,the masses and associating yourself with the right herd, it would be a mistake to forget either parts of the equation. Hence the 1000 similar posters in WayWT thread; they run with a crew that understands the finer things in life (according to this particular group this would be multicolored and hard to get running shoes and exclusive dry denim).
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Quote: check out dior homme. the combat boots, the slim fit jeans with the large cuffs, combat boots, thin white tshirts, suspenders!

dude you're nuts. hedi slimane derives most of his collections from music scenes in some way, but you've never heard oi or skin punk (working class genres of music), i'm guessing. yes they wear boots, braces and skinny jeans but there's also flight jackets, fp polos, and they definitely wouldn't be caught dead in a black/white checkered jacket or TIES. i get bummed when people think skinheads are all defacto nazis.

that whole collection's based on british pop mod look, you're way off the mark with your brilliant skinhead generalizations. new wave and pete doherty and all that.

Edited by canice on Feb 16, 2006 at 10:12 PM

--- Original message by canice on Feb 16, 2006 10:08 PM

there's a great skinhead book called skinhead i think. i read it a long time ago...but yeah, skins are different than neo nazis.

adidas sample stuff on the bay now.

DAMN YOU PEOPLE STOP WATCHING AND BID!

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZtriggerkid

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Well, there's a huge difference between runway/editorial fashion and mainstream/retail fashion.

Mainstream/Retail Fashion will only go as far as the market will go. As long as people stay buying and stay responding to the ideas, image, and trends it'll just keep going. No one was buying $100 jeans 5-10 years ago, Luxury brand denims from the 1990s were just verging over the $100 limit. Now it's a common establishment that premium/designer denim has to start at 100~ and luxury denim cost just as much as a tailored suit now.

Runway/Editorial Fashion is insane. How far will it go? However far someone can think. Comme Des Garcons, designer Rei is pushing it on another level - did you see that pink panther line from last year? That shit was just plain silly, who in the right mind would ever buy that. However it makes for great Runway design. The Dior Hommes WWII reference stuff was another example of it, but in reality theres at least one or two designers a year who really push the whole german soilder fashion design stuff. Alexander McQueen & Dolce have both put out series recently with in the last few years that reference that era.

I'm mostly dissapointed in the "Street" wear/brand/culture designers for not really trying to think outside of the mainstream. Since most of these brands are all about "ANTI-ESTABLISHMNET." Only people I see really doing unusual stuff is Leroy Jenkins and Artful Dodger (I know theres more, so don't be like oh you ain't seen x,y,z.) Smaller botique brands are doing cool stuff to but it's not really stand out, i.e. Surface2Air & The Craft.

Maybe alot of these "garage" labels will up the ante for fashion, since we're all becoming more fashion conscience. We all want to be unique and still tasteful.

--- Original message by baskew on Feb 16, 2006 10:14 PM

last time i checked, a tailored suit cost $2000 and up, and luxury denim $200-500 not counting bespoke 45rpm

--- Original message by RobbertJan on Feb 17, 2006 06:51 AM

even evisu has jeans that go over 1,000$ theres a few labels out there that sell for that much. HL private label stuff is well over that... Gucci Genuis jeans are around 3,000$ and Escada Denim well... thats just on some ol' retarded shit...

again, retail denim is anywhere between 2-500~ thats what you call "luxury" denim. It's not really that luxurious, its just about labels, advertising, and trends and what makes you feel good as a consumer.

So yes, Denim can cost more then a tailored suit.

No people were not buying $100+ jeans 5-10 years ago. (Don't mistake this for it not exisiting, people just weren't shelling it out on the level they are now.)

This pseudo denim hype is something thats only really happened in the last 5 years on a RETAIL level. Do you realize how many "new" denim brands have entered the market, even on a male only side because of this denim hype? Tons, theres a new brand everytime I go into saks with a sign that says "NEXT GREAT THING."

--- Original message by baskew on Feb 17, 2006 08:34 AM

Gucci jeans at $3000? wtf? If you're talking about menswear, I'm pretty sure these aren't the plain denim jeans and must be some special custom made shit not seen in stores or the runway...last time I checked at Barney's a pair of Gucci orange overdyes from current season was $450. And I don't think Helmut Lang's shit ever went that high, HL always struck me as a designer who kept his prices relatively grounded. Anyway it's just nit picking but to say luxury denim is costing the same as a bespoke suit, which will often times run you at least $4K is a bit of an exaggeration.
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Why are people even wasting their time commenting on someone saying that designer suits match the price of denim.

Raf Simons featured interests in the GABBA community as early as 2000, the Yohji Yamamoto works of late 80s featured radical political statements, the punk rock scene was widely explored and distillated by Her Majesty Vivienne Westwood over 25 years ago. I would recommend you also check out the early works of Margiela and many of the Antwerp Siz. Interest in the contempory radical groups is simply a way of understanding the way of mankind. It doesn't mean that the entire fashion world is turning to anti-semitism/neo-nazi/xxx. Believing that is naive.

The political statements in fashion are far from anything new; now rather whilst the rock/military look has been advocated by Slimane, Jacobs and now every freaking designer, people forget the important rule of repetition.

Fashion runs in circles. The political statements of fashion are generally vague, and yes: designers are often saved souls, believing in hipocratic or idiotic ways of life/has lowly-educated political viewpoints.

Besides, fashion is not about culture, it's about couture. Every good designer knows this. Things change, trends change.

DON'T YOU WANNA BE COOL

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You guys are killing me.

What you guys call luxury denim isn't. It's Premium. (admittedly huge grey area there, whatever.)

I said luxury denim costs more then a suit.

Not <u>premium</u> gucci, apc, evisu, whatever.

http://www.baskew.com

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