so, i'm having a pair of jeans made . . . .

[Akira]

I can vouch for PDO, got 10 yds of 12.5 oz yellow-line selvedge for ~$60 with overnight shipping (which they randomly upgraded me to... for $3 without consulting me, wasn't terribly annoyed but if they did that with a larger order I'd be concerned). All in all I was pretty happy (although I would have rather had that 14 oz yellow they had a few weeks before that sold out

[mizanation]

One of the best of the "Must Read" threads on Sufu In LONG LONG Time.

This definitely needs to be sticky-ed. Thank You Miz and kuniyoshi-san

sayword, it's good to see you, man. guess, what? i'm gonna get to meet roy ayers tonight! i saw your avatar, so i know you're a fan.

[mizanation]

man, i've been running around like crazy. haven't had time to sleep even. will post soon, i promise.

[mizanation]

sewing the zipper.

[mizanation]

[mizanation]

[mizanation]

for the top stitching on the fly, he likes to use a less-pronounced stitch. he says if the stitching is too pronounced on the fly, people's attention gravitates toward the crotch area, which is he believes is not optimal. notice how the stitches seem to run into each other. he feels the balance of the jeans are better when the crotch area is less noticeable.

[mizanation]

time to sew the other side of the zipper.

[mizanation]

time for some reinforcement stitching.

[mizanation]

all done.

[mizanation]

you can see that the sewing the zipper is actually a pretty involved process.

next, on to lap felling the inner legs.

here's something very interesting that he does with the lap felling.

he likes to have the strength and cleanness of lap felled seams, but he likes to have the single stitch look that comes with overlocked seams. so, he has a little trick to get the both of both worlds.

but first, here he is loading the two sides of the pant leg into the lap feller.

[mizanation]

the secret is he uses two threads, one dark blue and the other a regular top stitching color (usually either yellow or orange).

on the outside, you can only see the yellow thread. the dark blue thread blends in with the denim. so, you get the neatness and strength of lap felled seams, but the nice single stitch look of overlock.

[mizanation]

he was wearing a pair of jeans that he had done this to, and you can see that the dark blue stitch is pretty much invisible.

[rnrswitch]

Ahh, so he does do lap felled seams as well. Which does he prefer on his jeans. Or what does he use more often?

[mizanation]

Ahh, so he does do lap felled seams as well. Which does he prefer on his jeans. Or what does he use more often?

already answered this question but don't mind answering it again. about lap felled vs. overlock, he says he hasn't really thought about it that deeply.

he likes both and he makes both and he wears both.

he says he makes more overlock because the patterns he has are cut for overlock. lap felling uses up more fabric in the seam. if you use lap felled on a pattern cut for overlock, it will make the jeans slimmer.

[stewiegriffin]

yo miz, im not sure whether this has been asked before

but why do you use zipper rather than button fly?

is there any reason for this? cos as far as i concerned, most people prefer button fly.

other than that, most premium branded denims use the same thing too.

[raWorkshop]

I ran across both styles of off the arm lap seamers this weekend, including the classic Union Special. They are beautiful monsters.

[mizanation]

yo miz, im not sure whether this has been asked before

but why do you use zipper rather than button fly?

is there any reason for this? cos as far as i concerned, most people prefer button fly.

other than that, most premium branded denims use the same thing too.

the zipper is very special, check out the details earlier in the thread.

but most importantly, i don't need to undo my belt at the urinal now.

[stewiegriffin]

the zipper is very special, check out the details earlier in the thread.

totally missed it.

but most importantly, i don't need to undo my belt at the urinal now.

this is exactly what im thinking

[TheIntelligentHoodwinker]

Dope thread. But man, it'd be funny if they didn't fit.

[benzak]

I did the same with the front pockets of my jeans, to make it more clean:

I was thinking of doing it on the inseams as well (I used lapseams), but eventually I used two copper coloured threads. I prefered to show the lapseam on the outside as well..

[Dioxic]

What ever happened to the selvedge looking zipper? That was one of the parts I was most excited about.

[selaviso]

What ever happened to the selvedge looking zipper? That was one of the parts I was most excited about.

look one page back. homeboy-san sewed that beauty on.

[fang]

A+ thread. subscribed

[Dioxic]

My bad thanks Selvasio and damn....that is so fucking ill.

[mizanation]

this one is for sayword.

the legendary roy ayers

[Akira]

I wish I had a fancy felled-seam folding attachment (or just an industrial machine in general), I feel so ghetto when I have to fold my seams by hand lol

[Charlie Delta]

Miz, just curious, does he not use an iron at all, or are you just only documenting the sewing bits?

[mizanation]

Miz, just curious, does he not use an iron at all, or are you just only documenting the sewing bits?

hey ducky, he uses an iron a lot--an industrial steam iron for garment making. you can see him use it if you go back in the thread.

also, he will use it again later, i just have to upload the pictures...

[Charlie Delta]

Ah yea, remember now, with the "filthy" looking water, heh heh...