so, i'm having a pair of jeans made . . . .

[mizanation]

sometimes the bobbin will run out of thread. when this happens, you have to wind the bobbin with more thread.

this can be kinda boring when you are anxious to get on with sewing.

still waiting.

done!

[mizanation]

single stitching on the hips...

[Broke_folk]

Man, Those jeans look good. Thanks for the updates Miz.

[mizanation]

time to iron the selvage seam down.

[mizanation]

before he attaches the waistband, he cuts off the loose threads.

[mizanation]

i had a couple of these really tasty sesame seed cookies...

[mizanation]

there was a time in japan when they couldn't chainstitch the entire waistband. the technology at the time allowed japanese denim makers to only stitch till about two inches from the edge.

[mizanation]

the interesting thing about the japanese denim industry is that a lot of times, they had absolutely no idea how the americans made certain parts of the jeans! most of the time, the japanese had to reverse engineer the way the jeans were made. many of the machines used in jean manufacturing in america did not exist in japan.

this is a very good example of this phenomenon.

for years, japanese jean factories couldn't figure out how the americans would chainstitch all the way to the end of the waistband:

[mizanation]

again, it was warehouse who figured it out. they customized a japanese chainstitcher so that it would stitch the whole length of the waistband.

kuniyoshi-san has a customized kansai special for this purpose.

kansai special was a japanese company that wanted to make machines as strong and reliable as the famous union specials--so, they mimicked the name out of respect. now, kansai specials are also revered in the sewing world.

[mizanation]

sewing the waistband requires a special attachment.

[mizanation]

attaching the attachment.

the waistband is threaded through another guide, then through the attachment, then through the machine.

[mizanation]

lining up the end of the waistband.

sewing it to the top of the jeans.

[mizanation]

cutting the excess off.

you can see that the chainstitch goes all the way to the end of the waistband.

[mizanation]

that's it for now, more tomorrow...

[snuff_daddy]

good updates as usual

[timburm]

this truly is amazing

you should make a 'professional' book about how to make a jeans with all those pictures and your explanation...

it would sell!

[grouse_allergy]

...with a denim dust-jacket. It would age well on the coffee table.

[M.O.A]

this thread kills it

[opethrapture]

This thread makes my day!! Keep it coming

[Protocol]

I'm looking at my denim right now and weeping.

Best thread on forum right now.

[benzak]

so many of my questions about old techniques are answered! although I still dont understand why you'd be needing a special chainstitch machine for the waistband attachment with chainstitching all the way..

Miz: can you ask mr. kuniyoshi why the interlock stitch is prefered over a double lapseam on the inseams? I prefer double lapseam because it is a cleaner technique.. (I used this in my own jeans as well)

[thatslapz]

I'm discretely trying to check my waistband and crotch stitching while sitting in the library. This thread is amazing.

[rnrswitch]

so many of my questions about old techniques are answered! although I still dont understand why you'd be needing a special chainstitch machine for the waistband attachment with chainstitching all the way..

Miz: can you ask mr. kuniyoshi why the interlock stitch is prefered over a double lapseam on the inseams? I prefer double lapseam because it is a cleaner technique.. (I used this in my own jeans as well)

I am assuming the interlock stitch is to stay true to levis processes.

[inthemix_]

omgad.

weird question, but what jeans is he wearing?

[grouse_allergy]

I was wondering that, too. I like to know what I'm lookin' at.

[english]

I still dont understand why you'd be needing a special chainstitch machine for the waistband attachment with chainstitching all the way..

was wondering this myself...

oh, and, massive thread, the stuff dreams are made of!

[Akira]

So he doesn't do a flat felled seam on the inseam?

[artisanquality]

so many of my questions about old techniques are answered! although I still dont understand why you'd be needing a special chainstitch machine for the waistband attachment with chainstitching all the way..

Miz: can you ask mr. kuniyoshi why the interlock stitch is prefered over a double lapseam on the inseams? I prefer double lapseam because it is a cleaner technique.. (I used this in my own jeans as well)

I'm also wondering about this. Isn't it more common with a lap seam or maybe double stitch on the inseam rather than a single stitch? And what is best to prevent a crotch blowout?

[M.O.A]

I Want More Picsssss

[selaviso]

omgad.

weird question, but what jeans is he wearing?

i would hope they are a pair he made cuz they look really nice.