Dior Homme S/S 06

[Tequila]

Believe me, the first jeans pic where the fit is all f'ed up is supposedly the 'next thing'. Baggy and loose fit upstairs and an ultraslim leg, also worn as low as possible so the look is emphasized. Other designers such as Dsquared2 have them too. You won't catch me in these, though, I think it's the most ridiculous thing I've seen in a while.

[andewhall]

Just checked out that site, the Dior Jackets are forkin' nicccccce

http://photobucket.com/albums/y278/andewhall/

[haptronic]

^^sorry if it seems ignorant, but i really want to understand the "dior legacy" that you are reffering. is it Christian Dior's original new style.

or perhaps it is Silame's continual borrowing from youth culture from the past [mod style, and early enlish punk], i mean these clothes are nice but none of it has ever seemed particually inventive to me.

getting the look from a thrift shop, [i.e borrowing from the past] seems entirely in keeping with what Silame is doing.

[mouko]

Quote:

^^sorry if it seems ignorant, but i really want to understand the "dior legacy" that you are reffering. is it Christian Dior's original new style.

or perhaps it is Silame's continual borrowing from youth culture from the past [mod style, and early enlish punk], i mean these clothes are nice but none of it has ever seemed particually inventive to me.

getting the look from a thrift shop, [i.e borrowing from the past] seems entirely in keeping with what Silame is doing.

--- Original message by haptronic on Dec 9, 2005 04:00 PM

That can only really be said about s/s 05 and s/s 06. But then again, all designers and collections out there have their inspirations, its just a matter of how literal they are and to me, those two collections are quite literal (the latter being the most).

The innovation comes in the styling (for the most part), cuts, fabrics, treatments..etc.

Yes one can get the look at thrift stores. But then again you are paying for those little differences and of course the label. But if you want to look at truly inspirational and visionary design, I'd say take a look at the luster (a/w 03) collection. Untouchable.

[lost]

I will agree with the borrowing from the past part of this and being influenced by youth culture. Hedi is known for it. But he updates the majority of pieces that DH creates and evolves a theme out of it. A reason I think it has become so popular. It becomes more of a lifestyle then just an outfit. But there is definitely a difference between a piece at the thrift store and a piece of Dior Homme. There is no comparison between cuts and fabrics used. Is it possible to find a piece here and there that emulates the current DH line? Probably. But to say that the quality is the same is rubbish. There is a kid in the downtown ny scene that tries to copy the DH look everynight he goes out by buying some cheap ass piece of clothing and cutting it up into something that looks like outfits from the runway show and he looks like an absolute fool. I have never seen him get it completely right and usually the thing(s) that are off are way off.

[lost]

or what he said.

I'm just really bummed that Hedi went in the ska direction. Growing up in Kansas City the SHARPs ruined that look for me.

[haptronic]

mouko

have you got a link to that '03 collection i'd be seriously interested to have a good look.

from what i've seen his earlier work at YSL where he played with gender idenity was more interesting.

[lost]

if you take a look on the dior homme site they have archives that go back to F/W 01

...and that ipod nano wallet is f'ing hot.

Edited by lost on Dec 9, 2005 at 04:21 PM

[mouko]

Quote:

mouko

have you got a link to that '03 collection i'd be seriously interested to have a good look.

from what i've seen his earlier work at YSL where he played with gender idenity was more interesting.

--- Original message by haptronic on Dec 9, 2005 04:15 PM

http://www.firstview.com/MENfall2003/DIOR/

Fall 2003 "Luster" collection

[haptronic]

thanks for the link, that is much better a nice take on 'mad max', without being such a direct copy.

[minya]

I do agree that the Luster collection looks fantastic on the runway, but I think it's extremely unwearable. You'd look like you stepped off the set of Buffy the Vampire Slayer or Blade if you wore it out anywhere, except perhaps some sort of goth party.

[mouko]

Quote:

I do agree that the Luster collection looks fantastic on the runway, but I think it's extremely unwearable. You'd look like you stepped off the set of Buffy the Vampire Slayer or Blade if you wore it out anywhere, except perhaps some sort of goth party.

--- Original message by minya on Dec 9, 2005 04:36 PM

I agree with that. Although I have been hunting luster pieces just because my style is evolving to that. Luster was reportedly the worst selling collection and it's clear why, but speaking creatively it's probably the most creative.

In my opinion though the best collection dior has ever put out in terms of wearability (is that even a word? haha) and without being literal with its inspiration (actually to this day I'm not even sure what the inspiration actually is) was the fall 04 collection (victim of the crime) http://www.firstview.com/MENfall2004/DIOR_MEN/

[DJ_Flame]

Fall 04 feels very London mod streetwear-ish. Like what you would see on the streets everyday. so yea in that sense it's extremely wearable

Now I have to go hunting for that particular collection

[Tisswat]

Quote: I meant that if he actually found all the stuff that Dior showcased in SS06, he haven't got the slightest idea of what Dior is about. Buying Dior and wearing all Glam/Indie rock clothing, vintage or not, is just fucking weak. That's what I meant. Now shut up.

EUhm.. so I'm wearing all glam/indie rock clothing? I don't get it.

The point I was trying to make is that the items shown in this thread are clearly based on the streets (in Europe at least..). I'm sure the designers would gladly agree with me on this one.

Reporter: "What do you think about western civilization?"

Gandhi: "I think it would be a good idea."

Edited by Tisswat on Dec 9, 2005 at 08:26 PM

[Circa]

Nearly all of it is wearable because almost all of it is nothing new. As has already been stated, Slimane's themes have all heavily mined several genres of subculture. Goth/industrial (particularly '03), indie rock, new wave, punk & mod. The UK hooligan/punk influence is particularly noticable in SS 06. Everything from the models with looks/haircuts & clothes styled after Paul Weller and the blatant references to Jam lyrics are completely obvious. As are the style notes from Doherty, whom Slimane photographed and basically "hung out with" for 6 months or so while looking for influences for his collection. Some of the leathers and nylon jackets are simply just slightly re-styled pieces with very little done in the way updating. '04 looks more like a mod themed season with a slightly noir influence hence the title. Study up on the UK rock scene of 1975-1985 and you'll see the range of styles where many contemporary designers (and indie bands) are drawing their influence from.

[Guest Fade to Black]

Quote:

Nearly all of it is wearable because almost all of it is nothing new. As has already been stated, Slimane's themes have all heavily mined several genres of subculture. Goth/industrial (particularly '03), indie rock, new wave, punk & mod. The UK hooligan/punk influence is particularly noticable in SS 06. Everything from the models with looks/haircuts & clothes styled after Paul Weller and the blatant references to Jam lyrics are completely obvious. As are the style notes from Doherty, whom Slimane photographed and basically "hung out with" for 6 months or so while looking for influences for his collection. Some of the leathers and nylon jackets are simply just slightly re-styled pieces with very little done in the way updating. '04 looks more like a mod themed season with a slightly noir influence hence the title. Study up on the UK rock scene of 1975-1985 and you'll see the range of styles where many contemporary designers (and indie bands) are drawing their influence from.

--- Original message by Circa on Dec 9, 2005 09:13 PM

that's why my favorite collections by Slimane are those where he wasn't really referencing anything in particular (well, at least not outright) but rather creating an image and world that was totally unique to Dior Homme...particularly the first two collections, Solitaire and Red/Boys Don't Cry. It was still all about the tailoring, the mass-produced commercial cheap tees/hoodies haven't been a part of the brand yet, and it was all just slick ass suits or insanely luxurious knitwear, but in a classic yet modern and sexy way that doesn't have the gigolo feel of Dolce, the cheapness of DSquared or the stuffiness of Gucci. I think those first couple collections are what I'd be dressing up in all the time, in my ideal world...that to me was TRUE designer clothing that didn't sacrifice integrity for commercialism while still maintaining the status of a storied fashion house.

Edited by Fade to Black on Dec 9, 2005 at 11:30 PM

[skecr8r]

Why do people tend to ignore Strip? In my opinion it is only slightly less fantastic than Luster.

People should check out what he did back at YSL. ESPECIALLY 98SS and 99AW. Godlike. Beyond. True.

dress badly on purpose.

[horriblyjollyjinx]

Quote:

Quote: I meant that if he actually found all the stuff that Dior showcased in SS06, he haven't got the slightest idea of what Dior is about. Buying Dior and wearing all Glam/Indie rock clothing, vintage or not, is just fucking weak. That's what I meant. Now shut up.

EUhm.. so I'm wearing all glam/indie rock clothing? I don't get it.

The point I was trying to make is that the items shown in this thread are clearly based on the streets (in Europe at least..). I'm sure the designers would gladly agree with me on this one.

--- Original message by Tisswat on Dec 9, 2005 08:25 PM

I'm sure that Hedi would actually prefer that people got his look, or a look similar to his, with things they got from thrift stores or made themselves. Stuck up kids with trust funds probably don't like others doing that.

Anyone remembers Hedi's take on the Nigo/bape quote?

SOME GIRLS ARE BIGGER THAN OTHERS

[Circa]

To sum it up the man likes rock. However, instead of referencing 60's/70's glam bands like Cavalli and D&G have been doing for years with bands like the Stones, he picks rock icons from the punk/new wave era and builds a collection around them. The earlier seasons when he was first picking up steam at Dior (his "goth" period) are abudant with style references to artists like Robert Smith (boys don't cry) and even Trent Reznor or David Gahan.

[skecr8r]

The older collections feature pieces and construction methods not even existing before.

The inspiration is 99% of the collection now, whereas it used to be 10-20%.

I miss the androgyne. :-(

dress badly on purpose.

[davidatler]

fade to black, lost:

thats what i was thinking...

has anyone ordered from luisaviaroma? hows the service? returns?

for the price i might just order them.

Edited by davidatler on Dec 10, 2005 at 05:38 PM

[CactusArmy]

What really scares me is that I'm thinking this collection will be a big success commercially...

[wild_whiskey]

I dunno, I'd say even Luster is pretty Berlin-core.

I like Strip more than "VOTC," which is going a bit too far into rock-n-roll territory for fashion design, IMO...

Edited by wild_whiskey on Dec 12, 2005 at 04:54 PM

[harryx]

SOME OF THEM FOR SALE

http://photobucket.com/albums/c383/harryx2/?sc=1

If interested contact me!!!!

Thanksssssss

email: [email protected]

[mouko]

Quote: posted by: djrajio on Dec 7, 2005 01:20 AM

message: Yes! Finally someone who understand suits. Yes, the dior jackets are overpriced for the money. Essentially they are fused suits, which basically means that the inner cloth that helps keep the suit's shape is glued to the rest of the suit. A good way to tell is by merely feeling the fabric and noticing that a separate inner layer "floats" between the outer shell and inner lining. It terms of longevity, after multiple dry cleanings, the suit does bubble and get distorted and can't be corrected without a full re-work of the suit. A good forum which discusses this is Ask Andy Forum. Those guys are amazing in terms of their knowledge of suits. But anyways, for the price you pay for a blazer or full suit of Dior/Prada/Dolce, etc, you could get made to measure and made even bespoke for the same price with better fit, material, and construction.

Edited by djrajio on Dec 7, 2005 at 01:22 AM

actually. the buyer for dior over at Saks has said that all of diors blazers are made with a floating canvas and are made by family established couturies, not factories. Upon checking my dior coat, it is indeed a floating canvas construction (and this is from the fall 2005 collection). I certainly don't think this is overpriced for what you get. You indeed can get a good made to measure suit, but of course you are paying for the dior name as well, I just don't think this automatically makes it worse than a made to measure because it is designer.

Edited by mouko on Jan 2, 2006 at 03:59 AM

[shagnscoob]

Quote:

I dunno, I'd say even Luster is pretty Berlin-core.

I like Strip more than "VOTC," which is going a bit too far into rock-n-roll territory for fashion design, IMO...

Edited by wild_whiskey on Dec 12, 2005 at 04:54 PM

--- Original message by wild_whiskey on Dec 12, 2005 04:54 PM

which season/year is "VOTC" ?

[mouko]

Quote:

Quote:

I dunno, I'd say even Luster is pretty Berlin-core.

I like Strip more than "VOTC," which is going a bit too far into rock-n-roll territory for fashion design, IMO...

Edited by wild_whiskey on Dec 12, 2005 at 04:54 PM

--- Original message by wild_whiskey on Dec 12, 2005 04:54 PM

which season/year is "VOTC" ?

--- Original message by shagnscoob on Jan 2, 2006 02:51 PM

fall 2004

[CDG]

As for the model, it's not a new thing that Dior Homme sells to a female audience. It has always produced 8% of it's collections in smaller sizes for women buyers. Luisaviaroma is just presenting it with an actual female model to encourage it.

This collection is Hedi's most literal to date, basically copying looks worn by indie british rockers like Peter Doherty, The Paddingtons, etc. It wasn't well recieved by long standing fans either, the lack of creativity, gimmicks, and overall unmpressive garments didn't fare well. The t-shirts and the hoodies are just to make some cash, Galliano does it with his J'adore Dior t-shirts. The actual pieces in the collections are nice if only contrived and copied. On top of it, there is a good chance Hedi Slimane didn't even design this collection. Not that he has in a while, it's mostly been done by assitants.

good is dead

[haptronic]

muoko

thanks for the info on the blazer/jacket construction. Makes a huge difference.

[jhud]

quick question: luisaviaroma seems to be sold out in the sz28 19cm dry denim. does anyone know if I can get these somewhere else online? the folks at the dior store are being difficult. does dior even make a 28 in the 19cm? I tried on this season's jeans a few times and I know the 28 fits, but I actually have no idea whether I was trying on the 19 or 21 cm leg opening. hm.