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What exactly is 501xx?


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hmm, three totally different answers! I didnt think they were shrink to fit but i did buy them 2nh hand. They are dark and could be one wash from rigid - the label inside says 5per cent shrinkage expected. Theres also a paelling mistake - hope they are not fake!! slightly tapered legs.

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Sorry. Nearly all wrong!

XX was a term originally used by Levi's, probably from the 1890s, to denote their 'premium' Amoskeag denim, used on the 501, as opposed to the un-named denim (same weight, but unspecified supplier) used on their cheaper 201 range. They continued using the XX code fro their best denim even after they switched suppliers to Cone Mills in the 1920s. Hence the 501 was sometimes - but not always - also termed the 501XX, for instance on the leather patch of most of 501 jeans from the 30s to the 50s.

The post 83 fabric, made on wide looms, was called XXX denim. But mostly they continued calling their jeans simply 501, and I'm pretty certain some jeans, particularly in Europe etc, continued to have the XX designation, just because it had become a habit...

So, essentially, xx on a pair of Levi's (or a jacket) means not very much at all. It can be the early premium denim, it could also be pre-shrunk denim (eg on the 557xx jacket), and it has been used on many non-selvage items too. It PROBABLY means the fabric was made by Cone, as that is what it meant for many years, but I wouldn't be surprised if it has been used for non-Cone denim too.

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I am not saying much, but every pair of 501 stfs i have all have the XX on the label. These range from early nineties 501s to 2004 501s. Every pair of 501s I have that were prewashed don't have the XX on them. This goes for some pairs of the Levis Premium label jeans. I personally have never seen a pair of levis that wasn't stf that had the XX on them, but i also haven't worn many other levis other than the stf.

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On modern 501s it is certainly possible that the preshrunk jeans don't carry the XX, i don't have my folder with this info to hand. But there are preshrunk items, like the 557 and 502, that had the XX, and there are shrink-to-fit 501s from various eras that didn't carry the XX, if that makes sense.

Amazon's books are on a slow boat from China, I'm sure when they have stock they'll reduce their markup from 1,000%. Er, I hope so, anyway...

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Quote:

there are lots of processed jeans with the XX on ebay http://clothing.search.ebay.com/xx_Jeans_W0QQcatrefZC12QQfromZR8QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQsacatZ11483 , but it might be a part of the whole vintage thing to make them look like they've been worn in and shrunk to fit? well, I'm clueless.

--- Original message by horriblyjollyjinx on Oct 9, 2005 01:36 PM

all the processed ones i see are LVCs, which are made to look like very old and worn/ washed XXs.
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